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2009 Lexus LX570 — 200 series build

Discussion in 'Other Builds' started by Terndrerrr, Nov 26, 2022.

  1. Nov 26, 2022 at 8:50 AM
    #1
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

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    5CB5AAD3-B4AE-49C2-97C0-6987FFA18816.jpg
    Finally said good riddance to the Yukon XL and bought my wife a new vehicle. Well, new to us, anyway. It’s a 2009 LX with 149k miles. It’s in excellent shape. A few paint chips up front, a broken second row cup holder, and brakes that needed changing. That’s about it. It came to us with great service records, and nearly new Michelin Defenders on the factory 20” wheels. Every feature from the auto-fold mirrors to the AHC works perfectly. It doesn’t feel old or tired at all. And despite weighing 6k lbs with a GVWR higher than my Tundra, it has some pep in its step when needed. The factory leather is also in great shape with a nice patina. I will probably source some seat covers so our kids and dog don’t destroy it, lol.

    This “build” will be fairly mild. I plan to log all the maintenance, preventative and otherwise, that I need to do to this thing. I’ve been reading Mud a lot lately, and it turns out there are a few issues these trucks succumb to more frequently than one might think.

    To-do list:
    New OEM rotors/pads on the rear.
    Upgrade front brakes to Tundra kit & flush brake fluid.
    Husky Weatherbeater floor mats for front and middle rows.
    Replace broken 2nd row cupholder with OEM part.
    Replace front cupholder with BH3D double cupholder.
    Repair windshield rock chips.
    • Interior LEDs?
    Change oil (Kirkland 0w20 and OEM filter).
    Install Fumoto valve.
    Engine air filter.
    Reverse LEDs.
    Replace PCV valve
    Grease driveline
    Drain/fill diffs and transfer case.
    • Undercoat w/ Amsoil HD Metal Protector
    Replace less-than-stellar OEM battery terminal clamps
    Reinforce radiator weak point with OG formula JB Weld
    • Power steering flush.
    • Seat covers to protect the nearly perfect factory leather from kids and dog.
    • AHC fluid flush.
    • AHC sensor lift?
    • Polish headlights.
    • Roof storage setup (LFD bars with Thule cargo box is where I’m leaning, but may go full roof-rack…)

    First on the to-do list is brakes. These are shot, and we’ve got lots of dust from the aftermarket pads:
    072A5696-CDD5-43EF-82E5-85791B018538.jpg
    I plan to do new OEM rotors and pads on the rear, and I am upgrading the front to Tundra brakes for more rotor surface and bigger calipers. Here’s the rear, done. No more squeal!
    66BC26B8-097B-4464-A3B6-8ABEA124D194.jpg
    Lots of guys on Mud criticize the factory brakes on these trucks. I did read where one person speculated that Toyota built them with smaller brakes to fit the smaller wheel/larger sidewall setup that many overseas LCs are equipped with for the harsher terrain they spend their time on. Toyota did upgrade the brakes in 2016 with the mid-gen 200 series refresh among other things.

    Now, a simple repair. The flip up cupholders in the second row were broken, and I found an OEM part at several places online. As usual, McGeorge Toyota was the cheapest. Here’s the broken cupholder. Looks like the lid (which I have as well, but is unusable) was pushed past its maximum travel. Hinges and springs are toast.
    3FEC62D3-CD2D-4154-AB28-DFE7DCDE51EA.jpg
    The new one was easy to install. The upholstered sides pop straight up to reveal two small screws. Remove those, lift firmly with consistent pressure, and the whole thing pops straight out of the seat back. New one arrived, and here it is. I went for the matching gray on the lid instead of the wood trim:
    796A9A9C-6EC6-4BC8-A174-3D18319997B6.jpg
    20194760-EFF1-4955-9E1C-1520E0CAF25D.jpg

    Now for the front cupholders. These were in great shape and perfect working condition. But they are fairly shallow, and they don’t hold your drinks still. Making a turn will make your taller water bottle (like our Hydro Flasks) fall into your or your passenger’s lap. That’s annoying. I found a guy on Mud who 3D prints new cupholders. These things are awesome. OEM pops out if you just pull firmly and consistently straight up. New cupholders pop straight in. There were some fitment complaints on Mud when people first started ordering these, but mine are super snug and hold our giant Hydro Flask bottles securely. Highly recommended:
    CBDAD71A-A6A0-409E-A85F-80CFDB71A4CB.jpg

    Last thing I’ll mention in this first post: the radiator. There is a massive thread regarding a weak spot on the top of the OEM radiator on 2008-2018 LCs and LXs. This molded badge that protrudes from the radiator creates a much thinner point of radiator material at its bottom edge. Over time it develops a tiny stress crack. When it’s about to go, the crack will have extended well past the corners of the badge and may even seep fluid for a time before blowing. I went out to the truck, opened the hood, and removed the Lexus engine bay covers.
    8B2EB00E-2CAD-4558-B228-887A5226256C.jpg
    Sure enough, I have the beginnings of a stress crack here:
    259969BC-2C95-4B73-9A22-48AAAB73E129.jpg
    Dang it. Lots of guys go ahead and replace the radiator, hoses, and water pump while they’re at it. Others simply clean the area, rough it up, clean it again, clean it again, and apply JB Weld Radiator repair. I’m going to start with the JB Weld and monitor it. Maybe in the spring I will replace the radiator, hoses, and WP.

    If you have a 2008-2018 200 series, you need to go look at this spot on your radiator. Some of them start to show stress cracks well below 100k miles. Toyota changed the design in mid-2018, and they no longer make the older design radiator. If you are at the point where you want to repair it, you need to order the new design even though the parts website you’re going through is unlikely to say that it is spec’d for your older year. The new radiator that replaces the old one is part # 16400-50384.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2023
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  2. Nov 26, 2022 at 8:55 AM
    #2
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

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    Here is where I will chronicle the Tundra brake mod. I bought all new OEM parts (rotors, pads, lines, banjo lines) and sourced a pair of used calipers off eBay for less than half price. I was halfway through the swap when I realized I made a big mistake. Had I ordered earlier 2nd gen calipers, the mounting bolts would be the same size. But Toyota upgraded the caliper mounting bolts in the 2.5 gen trucks. So, I need to ream out the holes on the LX spindles to accept the larger bolts. Lots of people on Mud have done this. It’s not a big deal. But my problem is, I can’t find a worthy 9/16” (14.3mm) bit locally. So I’m halfway through, waiting on a reamer bit and a carbide-tipped bit to arrive from Amazon. My shipment is delayed, of course. The new calipers are assembled, greased, and ready to go:
    CEED5216-CC95-4607-9EED-161EED71BC3F.jpg

    I bought new bolts from Beaman Toyota locally as well as a couple 9/16” drill bits that would not last. I have Tap Magic and am still waiting on the better bits from Amazon. Will finish mounting these, run the brake lines, and bleed the system ASAP. For now, we are a one-vehicle family, lol.

    **UPDATE**
    This reamer bit arrived from Amazon last night, and I was able to make quick work of reaming out the caliper mounting holes.
    6705D104-EBD5-4D50-B282-CABBE2EAE0EA.jpg

    After that, the only remaining surprise was the flare nuts being stuck on the brake lines. No rust or anything, but they still didn’t want to budge. I had been putting penetrating oil on them for the past few days, but it didn’t help at all. I nearly stripped the nut on the passenger side but then ended up using a lit torch on it to finally break it free. Driver side flare nut required the torch as well. New calipers in, new lines connected, bled the brakes, replacing a significant amount of the brake fluid. It looked great coming out, so I was ok just doing a partial flush.

    Here’s the finished passenger side, a Tundra brake setup on a 200 series:
    44116A36-94FB-4878-8314-27F5CE89217A.jpg

    Initial impressions are that this was very much worth it. The pedal isn’t as soft feeling. It feels much stronger when braking and stops so much better. This is how it should have been from the factory in my opinion.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2022
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  3. Nov 26, 2022 at 8:27 PM
    #3
    Eddy20

    Eddy20 New Member

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    Love the LX series, we have a 2004 LX470 with 101,000 miles-great truck!
     
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  4. Nov 28, 2022 at 6:15 AM
    #4
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

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    Decided to throw it into 4Lo last night. It took a little while but went into 4Lo just fine. When I put it back in 4Hi, I got a "Check VSC System" message on the dash in addition to the 4Lo light flashing. The truck would not return to 4Lo. Went out to start it this morning and check for codes. No codes detected, and all dash lights and the VSC message from last night are gone.

    Now that I think about it, the PO told me he never went off road and "never even used the 4wd", lol. I don't think this thing has been put into 4Lo for years. I bet the center diff lock is the same story.

    I'm going to move drain/fill diffs and TC up on the list. Then I will start exercising those actuators very frequently, and once they (hopefully) start to give me no fuss, I'll back off to monthly exercising. :muscleflexing:

    Did I mention how awesome the brakes are now?!
     
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  5. Dec 5, 2022 at 6:43 AM
    #5
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

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    My plan this weekend was to tackle the following: oil change, engine air filter, diffs/TC oil swap, Amsoil undercoating, bleed rear brakes (might as well since I still have a lot of fresh fluid), and JB weld the radiator. Well, I opened the oil filler cap to find this:
    A960BAF9-2DD2-4BB3-919B-7B28129A2251.jpg
    …and promptly freaked out. I was sure there was coolant in my oil. This usually means a head gasket failure. I couldn’t find any other evidence of a problem except my coolant reservoir is all but empty. I went ahead and drained the oil, and it looked normal. Very confused at this point. So, as usual, I turn to the forums. Apparently, this milky stuff will build up in your oil cap if you don’t drive for a long enough time with your engine warmed up. We don’t take trips that are less than 9 miles very often at all. Anyway, I think I’m ok. I’m still not sure why the coolant reservoir is so low. But I searched around a long time on that subject and found that it’s normal for it to be empty (according to some people on the internet, so take it with the appropriate grain of salt).

    Lost a good deal of daylight worrying that I just bought a truck with a blown head gasket, so I have not yet finished my jobs. I got the rear diff and transfer case swapped. And now it’s raining today. I will probably still take the afternoon off from work and at least get the front diff oil swapped. This is what the rear and TC oil (they are the same 75w85) look like:
    A454F7C8-3143-498A-A432-5E3FF54098FA.jpg
    It’s a very dark maple syrup kind of color. It’s supposed to be light amber. I don’t think these have ever been swapped. Here’s the drain plug for the rear diff. LOTS of shavings stuck to the magnet.
    75F528F0-A604-4DCA-9120-B216E56AFF59.jpg
    It’s fine, just seems like it has been like this for a very long time. I was expecting this, as I did not see any diff or TC service specifically noted in the Carfax history. The washers for the transfer case drain and fill were very difficult to remove. I had to use vice grips and my torque wrench to unscrew the plug from the gasket. The encouraging part of this is that I can probably exercise the 4Lo and CDL actuators and get them to working very smoothly with the fresh oil in the TC. I bought Valvoline 75w90 for all three by the way. This truck is old enough that its transfer case uses the same oil as the diffs, not straight 75W like my truck.

    Hoping to finish the front diff, undercoating, and radiator weld this afternoon. :headbang:
     
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  6. Dec 5, 2022 at 7:48 PM
    #6
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

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    I just can’t seem to get away from work as much as I think I’ll be able to these days. I was able to finish the front diff oil swap. The drain plug was nearly impossible to get off. I had to hold my camping torch on it for a minute or two and then push a breaker bar with my foot to get it to break loose. Old oil (which again looked dark like maple syrup) out, and new washers and oil in. Here’s the drain plug. Not too much shavings on it:
    68C9BBC9-5BA4-4A13-81B3-53D7FB9A87CC.jpg
    I will probably stick to 30k intervals for the diffs and TC from now on.

    I also took a long drive tonight and decided to try my 4Lo and center diff lock actuators out again. It went into and out of 4Lo immediately. VERY different than when I tried this a few days ago and got blinking lights on the dash and the “Check VSC System” message. Alright, 4Lo works great, so then I tried the CDL. Instantly starts flashing on the dash and won’t do anything. I power cycled the truck, put it into 4Lo, then turned on the CDL…and it worked! But then it took a few power cycles to turn it off and get back to 4Hi. I’m going to keep trying 4Lo and the CDL every day for a while (a week or more) and see if they start working more reliably.

    Need to order some terminal blocks…

    The brakes are still awesome!
     
  7. Dec 5, 2022 at 8:06 PM
    #7
    NWPirate

    NWPirate Tesla kool-aid connoisseur

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    Yep, you're good. Short, cold trips and also winter temperatures alone will add some moisture to the crankcase.
    I've got a catch can on my truck and like clockwork during the winter, it's a milkshake.
    I would clean it off once a month so the new moisture has a place to stick.

    @Green Thunder has a milkshake pic from his catch can, I believe.

    Love the 570! :popcorn:
     
  8. Dec 5, 2022 at 8:08 PM
    #8
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

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    I’m going to add that to the list—a catch can!
     
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  9. Dec 5, 2022 at 8:11 PM
    #9
    NWPirate

    NWPirate Tesla kool-aid connoisseur

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    Do it!

    Found a pic from last winter, this was in the bottom after I dumped the oil out.
    20220128_224536.jpg
     
  10. Dec 5, 2022 at 9:37 PM
    #10
    Green Thunder

    Green Thunder Smooth in the Cruise

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    I’ve never had the milkshake on the gas cap, but my catch can looked exactly like that until I started driving highway miles again. Nasty crap.
     
  11. Dec 6, 2022 at 5:16 AM
    #11
    NWPirate

    NWPirate Tesla kool-aid connoisseur

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    Gas cap? I assume you mean oil cap.
    Yeah, I haven't seen in there either. Just in the catch can.
     
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  12. Dec 6, 2022 at 5:35 AM
    #12
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

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    And some people say you don’t need a catch can on a 5.7 gas engine. :notsure:

    I don’t know how much good it does, but allowing it to mix up in the crankcase can’t be super helpful…
     
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  13. Dec 6, 2022 at 7:42 AM
    #13
    Green Thunder

    Green Thunder Smooth in the Cruise

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    Phuk. Yes, oil cap.
     
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  14. Dec 10, 2022 at 11:43 AM
    #14
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

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    Every day for the last week, I have engaged and disengaged 4Lo and the center diff lock. Happy to report that both are functioning perfectly smoothly with no more issues or dash lights. All we needed was some new transfer case oil and a bit of exercise.
     
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  15. Feb 9, 2023 at 5:02 PM
    #15
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

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    Replaced my PCV valve today. This was a 3 minute job and a $6 part. The old one was seized up. This is probably why I have the dreaded milkshake under the oil cap. I’m going to hold off on getting a catch can and reassess the situation in 5k miles. The old one is on the right, and you can see some gunk accumulated on the bottom. It’s probably completely full of that gunk.
    AE17EE95-DED6-45FC-A7C8-4E9CB66CE7A3.jpg

    I also cleaned with the radiator weak point with rubbing alcohol, scuffed it up with sandpaper, cleaned it with alcohol again, and applied JB Weld. 15-24 hours to fully set. This was a preventative move that I hope drastically extends the life of my radiator.
    2715AD7E-E302-437A-B193-3A7ED44CA7D3.jpg

    Lastly, my battery clamps looked awful, so I ended up installing some decent if overpriced terminal blocks and a new battery hold down. :headbang:
    531E9C67-82E4-4A06-9788-3F3C60F87990.jpg
     
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  16. Feb 9, 2023 at 5:13 PM
    #16
    NWPirate

    NWPirate Tesla kool-aid connoisseur

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    Looks good! I didn't know about the weak spot on the radiator. :monocle:
     
  17. Feb 9, 2023 at 5:44 PM
    #17
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

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    In true Toyota fashion, they left it that way until the late 2018 model year.

    I’m curious what @AZBoatHauler’s looks like.
     
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  18. Feb 9, 2023 at 6:08 PM
    #18
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140/ASCM#3/2ndGenNaysayer/BAF140

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    I’m trying to figure out if it’s been replaced. It looks good to me - I know they are notorious for cracks here.
    C0076799-7E84-4822-A36C-6F7BFADAC3E7.jpg 839A24EB-BDCC-48F6-B9CD-8E333EB2759F.jpg D01C203A-15E0-481C-B920-C3CFB98A8F60.jpg
     
  19. Feb 9, 2023 at 6:13 PM
    #19
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

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    Looks like the very faintest beginning of a little crack. You’re probably good for quite a while. Some of them go as low as 80k miles. I’d be so pissed, lol.
     
  20. Feb 9, 2023 at 6:38 PM
    #20
    NWPirate

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    Looks like I've got a different design, made in Mexico too? :monocle:
    20230209_182838.jpg
    20230209_182746.jpg
     
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  21. Feb 9, 2023 at 6:42 PM
    #21
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

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    Yep. Tundra and Sequoia radiators are completely different.
     
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  22. Feb 9, 2023 at 6:52 PM
    #22
    NWPirate

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    Ah! Both radiator pics above are LC's? Forgot @AZBoatHauler got one
     
  23. Feb 9, 2023 at 7:04 PM
    #23
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

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    Yep, it's a 200 series problem. And a more common one than most would think.
     
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  24. Feb 9, 2023 at 7:06 PM
    #24
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140/ASCM#3/2ndGenNaysayer/BAF140

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    Demello / SOB Fab Bumpers, SuperWinch, WKOR sliders, RCI skids, Baja Designs lighting, Billy 6112 and 5160 w/ CB +2, JL Audio with Alpine HU, DD 10" Exhaust, LED headlights, Rago fab mounts, 35” BFG, HAM radio
    Can’t like but I agree.
     
    NWPirate likes this.
  25. Feb 9, 2023 at 7:23 PM
    #25
    NWPirate

    NWPirate Tesla kool-aid connoisseur

    Joined:
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    First Name:
    Zach
    WA
    Vehicle:
    2017 SR5 TRD CM 2004 TRD Snow Goat
    Copy! As you were. :hattip:
     
  26. Feb 11, 2023 at 6:55 AM
    #26
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140/ASCM#3/2ndGenNaysayer/BAF140

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2019
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    #34576
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    First Name:
    Adam
    So.Arizona
    Vehicle:
    2017 CrewMax 4x4, 2017 LandCruiser, 2005 Sequoia 4x4
    Demello / SOB Fab Bumpers, SuperWinch, WKOR sliders, RCI skids, Baja Designs lighting, Billy 6112 and 5160 w/ CB +2, JL Audio with Alpine HU, DD 10" Exhaust, LED headlights, Rago fab mounts, 35” BFG, HAM radio
    NWPirate, Terndrerrr[OP] and Blang805 like this.
  27. Feb 11, 2023 at 11:08 AM
    #27
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2019
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    #32965
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    Male
    Music City
    Vehicle:
    Dual 5.7s
    TRD Fox, RAS, 285/75 DTs, dual battery, SS3 Pro
    Yeah. Those are awesome. Guess that means you gotta buy a bumper with a swing-out, too.

    That would be what I tell my wife so I don’t have to carry my spare in the cargo area. “We can’t go without a spare, honey.” :cool:
     
  28. Feb 11, 2023 at 1:11 PM
    #28
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140/ASCM#3/2ndGenNaysayer/BAF140

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2019
    Member:
    #34576
    Messages:
    6,927
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Adam
    So.Arizona
    Vehicle:
    2017 CrewMax 4x4, 2017 LandCruiser, 2005 Sequoia 4x4
    Demello / SOB Fab Bumpers, SuperWinch, WKOR sliders, RCI skids, Baja Designs lighting, Billy 6112 and 5160 w/ CB +2, JL Audio with Alpine HU, DD 10" Exhaust, LED headlights, Rago fab mounts, 35” BFG, HAM radio
    I was thinking roof rack because it’d be real hard to sell my wife on the swing out.

    Honestly I’d only take a spare when going where there is no signal or we were going to be off-road.
     
  29. Feb 15, 2023 at 6:23 AM
    #29
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

    Joined:
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    Messages:
    4,911
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    Male
    Music City
    Vehicle:
    Dual 5.7s
    TRD Fox, RAS, 285/75 DTs, dual battery, SS3 Pro
    Checked under the oil cap after installing a new PCV valve.
    Before:
    And a week after:
    87BF9016-E0C1-49B5-8A7C-BD92D7009F30.jpg
    This puts me more on team No Catch Can Needed. If you’re seeing milkshake under the cap, put a new $6 PCV valve on your truck. At least remove yours to see if it rattles. It takes 2 minutes to unscrew and screw back in. If it doesn’t rattle, it is seized, and that is probably why you’re seeing the milkshake.
     
    Blang805 and AZBoatHauler like this.
  30. Aug 2, 2023 at 7:33 AM
    #30
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr [OP] guzzling dealer repellent

    Joined:
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    Member:
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    Messages:
    4,911
    Gender:
    Male
    Music City
    Vehicle:
    Dual 5.7s
    TRD Fox, RAS, 285/75 DTs, dual battery, SS3 Pro
    Just an update. We’ve put almost 14k miles on this thing since buying it. I’ve bought a ton of parts: radiator, water pump, thermostat, serp belt, idler pulley, AHC globes, 7.5L of fluid, and some other things I haven’t thought of. This is all for preventative maintenance. I just need cooler weather and the time to do it!

    I also want to polish the headlights and trim up some of the lower hanging body panels. I think I can order LC200 rockers that are higher and tighter than the LX. They'll bolt right up.

    We just put 1900 miles on it in the last couple of weeks. I saw tank averages of 17.2 to 16.3mpg. Hand calc’d the last one, and it was dead on the nose.

    Here she is parked at the vacant campsite next to my dad's RV in Arkansas.
    LX front Arkansas.jpg
     
    Malinois38, Blang805, sd172 and 3 others like this.

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