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2006 Tundra PCV valve removal - got stuck??? pb blaster? any other suggestions?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by T18, Mar 9, 2020.

?

what would you do?

  1. take it to the car garage?

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  2. spray pb blaster

    66.7%
  3. apply heat

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  4. others? please specify

    33.3%
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. Mar 9, 2020 at 8:05 AM
    #1
    T18

    T18 [OP] New Member

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    2006 Tundra PCV valve removal - got stuck??? what do you suggest?
    I tried using 7/8" open wrench, but the screw didn't budge. I tried making room for a #22 deep well socket but it still didn't budge. I am afraid to break the screw stud inside the engine block.
    what do you suggest to remove the PCV valve?
    (1) spray pb blaster.
    (2) apply heat.
    any other suggestions?

    pcv.jpg
     
  2. Mar 9, 2020 at 8:32 AM
    #2
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Me?...I would leave it alone until it became a real demonstrated problem. OEM maintenance recommendations will say to change these periodically for environmental preservation, but screw that. The government told them to put them in, and the government told them to recommend changing. It's a steel fitting stuck in an aluminum manifold. If it's not currently the obvious cause of any engine malfunction, I can't think of any good thing that will come from forced removal.

    Edit: If you insist on removing it, try PB Blasting it liberally for a day or so, then use a standard (not deep) 22mm 1/2" drive socket with a rachet or breaker bar. A standard 1/2" drive socket may be deep enough to engage the hex. Don't blame me for empowering you after you twist out the manifold threads.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2020
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  3. Mar 9, 2020 at 8:47 AM
    #3
    T18

    T18 [OP] New Member

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    Too late, and I did try postponing to remove it.
    I already cut it with a Dremel tool, so I can fit a deep well socket over it.
    It still would not budge.

    One youtuber suggested to start the engine and run it for a few minutes so going to try that later. I guess the theory is to heat it so it will expand a little and then it will be easier to be removed when cool. This is contrary to the idea of running engine can make it harder to remove so unsure but will give it a try anyway!

    Stay tuned!

     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2020
  4. Mar 9, 2020 at 8:52 AM
    #4
    T18

    T18 [OP] New Member

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    after dremel cut

    pcv1.jpg
     
  5. Mar 9, 2020 at 8:53 AM
    #5
    T18

    T18 [OP] New Member

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    deep well socket fit over the pcv valve screw

    pcv2.jpg
     
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  6. Mar 9, 2020 at 9:07 AM
    #6
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol The "Mangler"

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    That was smart to cut it. Were you able to remove it after that?
     
  7. Mar 9, 2020 at 9:18 AM
    #7
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Mmmm...I don't think I would try that. Aluminum's coefficient of expansion is much greater than steel, so you might think the hole would expand faster than the steel. Unfortunately, I'm thinking the rest of the manifold expansion would have the effect of squeezing the hole closed, like an old guys prostate. Now, if you had a dermatologists liquid nitrogen applicator, a pin-point jet right on the valve fitting might work.

    Since you have cut off the valve connection, I believe you are now definitely committed to removing the PCV valve regardless of the outcome. (Unless you glue the end back, or whittle a stick to drive in the open hole. :eek:) Only way to put more torque on the fitting is get a longer wrench handle (pipe extension), and pray you don't rip out the threads. Maybe you'll receive a miracle...or, worst case, maybe you can repair the threaded hole.
     
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  8. Mar 9, 2020 at 9:36 AM
    #8
    Winning8

    Winning8 New Member

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    use a impact driver electric or air, try to do short burst, the taping motion will get it lose.
     
  9. Mar 9, 2020 at 10:23 AM
    #9
    chrisb

    chrisb scumbag

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    I've found Kroil to be a better penetrating oil than PB. Let it soak for an hour, reapply and soak for an hour, reapply and soak. Then heat. Then reapply and soak. Then try a low-torque impact. A big impact will get it out, but it's all coming out. Threads and everything.
    If you can get it to budge at all, stop. Lube it again, and tighten it back down a little. Work it back and forth, with very regular lubrication and you'll be able to slowly walk it out two steps forward, one back. The back/forth motion allows the grit/oxidation to clear as you unscrew it.
     
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  10. Mar 9, 2020 at 11:56 AM
    #10
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Saw it right off

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    Impact driver good idea but if none available, are you able to rotate it either way ?
    The reason I ask, when I took plugs and even the same PCV out, it was a struggle initially but then it was suggested to tighten and then un-tighten a little each time and it was a little. Maybe 1/8 of a turn each time is all it wanted to go but after a bottle of patience, everything went fine.
     
  11. Mar 9, 2020 at 11:57 AM
    #11
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    Pull the valve covers. Then you can replace those gaskets and the plug well seals. Might as well do the plugs too. And coils. Then change the oil. While under there you can drop the trans pan and change the filter.

    Oh, and be sure and grease your prop shaft zerks while you're under there. And change out the diff juice and transfer case juice since you're under there.

    And clean the TB since you're there. And that's how you fix the PCV thingy.

    EZ PZ.
     
  12. Mar 9, 2020 at 12:07 PM
    #12
    JohnLakeman

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    Trying to share the misery? :rofl:
     
  13. Mar 9, 2020 at 12:59 PM
    #13
    PCJ

    PCJ New Member

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    1/2 inch breaker bar or impact. If you damage the threads you just pull the valve cover to repair/replace it which is where your at anyway.
     
  14. Mar 9, 2020 at 1:25 PM
    #14
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    This^^^

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. Mar 9, 2020 at 1:33 PM
    #15
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    i’ve used this method before. As a plumber, I will use this removing an old trap arm. If it doesn’t budge when I’m trying to loosen it, I will try to tighten it just a little, then back it out. Sometimes going back in a little again periodically, trying to keep the threads intact.
     
  16. Mar 9, 2020 at 2:24 PM
    #16
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    That trick of going tight a bit and then trying the loosening has worked for me on other stuff. An impact wrench is key here.
     
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  17. Mar 9, 2020 at 2:25 PM
    #17
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Might as well do the upper ball joints too!:rofl:
     
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  18. Mar 9, 2020 at 2:36 PM
    #18
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    Yeah I’m a little hesitant to tighten anything a little bit more going into aluminum. Impact would be my first choice for this scenario.
     
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  19. Mar 10, 2020 at 1:19 AM
    #19
    T18

    T18 [OP] New Member

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    success! Thanks for all who responded. Impact driver is one tool I don't have. I have a big electric impact driver for tire removal. Unsure whether that is good for this. But, I pressed the deep well socket over the PCV valve with my left hand firmly and turned the wrench 1/8" of a turn using my right hand. The screw came loose and broke free. Hole is good. Screw is good. All is well.

    image0 (1).jpg
     
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  20. Mar 10, 2020 at 2:42 AM
    #20
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    Hmm. This pic reminded me: these are pipe thread, not machine thread. I wonder if anti-sieze would be better in this application than that thread sealant? The sealant seems like overkill given this is a relatively light pressure/vacuum situation. For heaven's sake, the connection on the output side of this PCV valve is just a rubber hose with a spring clamp.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2020
  21. Mar 10, 2020 at 3:07 AM
    #21
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    I was thinking it looks like the old one was missing the tape which could explain the difficulty in removing it.
     
  22. Mar 10, 2020 at 4:09 AM
    #22
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Saw it right off

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    :yes:

    Totally agree and when I changed mine, I questioned the use of what the FSM was recommending which is 08833–00070 which is equivalent to Threadlocker Red(Loctite 271/Threebond 1324) according to their Tech Tip....1st Gen Tundras Info Dump
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2020

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