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2002 Sequoia P0300, P0302, P0304, P0306, P0308 and flashing check engine light

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by ehowitzer, Jul 7, 2022.

  1. Jul 7, 2022 at 11:33 AM
    #1
    ehowitzer

    ehowitzer [OP] New Member

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    Hello,

    I'm a new member that has been watching these forums for a couple of years. Great information here! Thanks to so many who have posted useful info. This is my first post, so please be gentle. ;-)

    I have a 2002 Sequoia SR5 that I love with 225K miles on it. It was running fine and then about two weeks ago it started to show signs of misfire/rough idle intermittently, but there was no check engine light and it would go away after a short while. It has been getting worse over the last couple of days, and yesterday I got a flashing check engine light. I read the codes and saw that I get codes in batches of P0300, P0302, P0304, P0306, and P0308. Always all five codes at once (all the bank 2/drivers side cylinders).

    I had the timing belt done for me at the end of March this year, and did coil packs and spark plugs a year ago. I don't think it's those items.

    I read that this could be a plugged VVT controller. Does anyone have any advice on if that makes sense, how I can locate it, and how I can diagnose if this is the problem. Is it worth removing and cleaning it? Is there a filter that I should clean somewhere in the loop?

    Any help would be appreciated. :)
     
  2. Jul 7, 2022 at 11:48 AM
    #2
    e30cabrio

    e30cabrio I'm e30cabrio, I'm a modaholic

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    Sequoia LED Headlights! D.T. L.T. headers, dual exh., BDX, S&B intake, 2018 seat skins.
    I searched 306 because it was semi middle, here is what I got:

    https://www.autocodes.com/p0306_toyota.html

    P0306 TOYOTA code possible causes Faulty spark plug 6 Clogged or faulty fuel injector 6 Faulty ignition coil 6 Fuel injector 6 harness is open or shorted Fuel injector 6 circuit poor electrical connection Ignition coil 6 harness is open or shorted Ignition coil 6 circuit poor electrical connection Insufficient cylinder 6 compression Incorrect fuel pressure Intake air leak

    Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p0306_toyota.html

    Here is a similar issue in a thread here.

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/multiple-cylinder-misfire-p0300-301-304-305-308.37269/

    Good luck.
     
  3. Jul 7, 2022 at 11:58 AM
    #3
    ehowitzer

    ehowitzer [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for your response e30cabrio, but since I get all the codes at once, I don't think it has anything to do with a single cylinder. :-(

    I suspect it's something in common with them all.
     
  4. Jul 7, 2022 at 12:09 PM
    #4
    e30cabrio

    e30cabrio I'm e30cabrio, I'm a modaholic

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    Yes, they most likely all have the same issue. Bad gas, bad plugs, bad fuel pump, dirty/bad injectors. etc

    I was not suggesting a single cylinder was the issue, if you look at the thread I posted, you will see he threw a ton of parts at it, did not fix it & the dealer diagnosed bad gas.
     
  5. Jul 7, 2022 at 1:08 PM
    #5
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Flashing CEL is never a good thing. Flashing vs. solid is indicative of a severe error.

    Multi-cylinder misfire problems are one of the hotter topics around here and it's not uncommon the cause is a variety of issues. Like ...

    If you recently replaced the coil packs, especially of the replacements were non-OEM and/or purchased at a known-counterfeit-supply source like scAmazon, WallyMart, fleaBay, that is a likely culprit.

    If you recently had timing belt done, a lot of people complain about issues because the crank position sensor cable wasn't properly secured during the job, and was chewed by a pulley. It's happened to a few members.

    If you recently swapped injectors, O2 sensors, or MAF, or have never changed any of those, there was at least one person impacted by each of those three things getting misfires.

    Some people have found starting/running issues because their ECU found water damage like this guy.


    But more often than not, it's non-OEM coil packs, counterfeit coil packs, or installation of the wrong plugs. I see you may not want to admit it's the coils or plugs, but that would be the #1 focus of my attention right now. I'd also be checking the connectors on the coil packs, b/c they tend to get brittle with time and don't seat properly.

    I'm doubting you skipped a tooth on timing, but I suppose that could be it too.
     
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  6. Jul 7, 2022 at 1:13 PM
    #6
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    PS - just for S&G have you tried swapping one or more coil packs on cylinders throwing errors with cylinders that aren't throwing errors to see if it follows?

    Have you pulled a plug on a cylinder with a misfire code to see what the plug looks like? See if it's fouled or ?? Can you show us a pic?

    Have you done a compression/leakdown test yet?
     
  7. Jul 7, 2022 at 1:25 PM
    #7
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    PSS - A good example of what non-OEM coils can do. @Tundra2 was having issues with flashing CEL, misfire. Traced back to non-OEM "Orion Tech" coil packs. This is the post I can find about it.
     
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  8. Jul 7, 2022 at 1:34 PM
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    ehowitzer

    ehowitzer [OP] New Member

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    Great info Shifty. Thanks much!

    The coil packs and plugs were done over a year ago, but they are not OEM coil packs. :-( The timing belt was done about four months ago, and it has been running well since. The O2 sensors, MAF and injectors have not been swapped since I have owned the vehicle (about 3 years).

    I haven't done a compression/leakdown test, or pulled any of the failing plugs yet. Since the codes are so consistent on the entire left side of the block, I wasn't thinking to look at any given cylinder. Is it likely to have the entire side of the engine fail at the same time, or is it possible one cylinder is causing codes for the other cylinders on that side?

    I've dug a little deeper, and I'm not even sure I have VVT controllers on my engine, so that does not seem to be a likely cause. It looks like they were introduced in 2005. :-(

    I'll pull the plugs and take some pics, and swap a coil pack from bank 1 to bank 2, and observe what happens. Thanks again!
     
  9. Jul 7, 2022 at 2:30 PM
    #9
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    VVTi was a feature of '05+

    You're right, it would be highly unusual for all cylinders to suddenly on one side to fail. IIRC, @BubbaW posted on here once the layout of the V8 coil pack wiring and I swear it jumped back and forth across the engine. Here it is. I don't think it's a wiring/electric problem because of that reason.

    I want to blame is the coil packs just b/c they're non-OEM and while it's weird, I've seen cases where the 1st coil pack in a run being bad will foul the rest, but I can't remember if I've seen that here with the 2UZ-FE or not. There've been no shortage of cases of bad gas causing issues too where we blame non-OEM/counterfeit coil packs.

    Linking this post would save me some typing. But all misfires on one side only? And a recent timing belt change? Those two together make me think your crank position sensor wiring wasn't properly secured after timing belt change and was possibly damaged. So I'd check the wiring also, just to be sure. This potato-quality video shows where the sensor is, this video shows testing it.

    However, if that wiring isn't damaged, and swapping a coil pack from bad cylinder to good makes no effect, similar cases here have been due to:
    • Bad gas, where running a treatment of Heet fixed the issues.
    • Bad O2 sensor on the bank/side of the engine of the misfires; if never replaced, this would be something I'd just do to both sensors on the side having misfire issues, in case one O2 sensor was stuck rich/lean and causing misfires.
    • Bad MAF or throttle body assembly, or throttle position sensor, but most of these were single- or multi-cylinder misfires.
    • Something catastrophic, or suck valve(s) causing loss of compression on one or more cylinders
    I'd toss this thread out there also with some thoughts, though, sadly, the person we were trying to help never bothered to reply back with the solution.

    I'm going to assume (right or wrong) that you used the right plugs and got them at a legitimate source.

    Another second suspicion would be fuel pump can't supply adequate pressure, or a problem with the plumbing to the injectors on that side. But that's a long shot.

    Just asking to ask: Are you hearing any weird noises, like a golf ball in a coffee can?
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2022
  10. Jul 7, 2022 at 2:38 PM
    #10
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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  11. Jul 7, 2022 at 2:47 PM
    #11
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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  12. Jul 7, 2022 at 6:09 PM
    #12
    ehowitzer

    ehowitzer [OP] New Member

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    So I had a chance to do a little today. I cleared the codes yesterday and have not received any additional codes yet today. I haven't driven very much so although the engine got up to running temp, it certainly wasn't hot.

    I removed the crank position sensor, and inspected the wiring. It looks good, no rips, tears, or rubs on the casing. I tested the sensor and it read 2306 ohms. I'm pretty sure it's good, at least at cooler temperatures. :) I cleaned it and reinstalled it.

    I used my scanner to check the O2 sensors on bank 2 (the side with the last codes) and they look to be working perfectly (again at cooler but operating temperatures).

    I removed the coil packs and spark plugs (the plugs are Denso iridium plugs) in cyl #1 and cyl #2, and swapped them. I inspected the coil packs and they look fine (although they may still be the culprit). We'll see if the codes I get next follow the coil pack. Thanks again for all the great information, and stay tuned. I'll update this post as I figure things out.

    Here's a pic of the spark plug that Shifty asked for:

    IMG_20220707_164629.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2022
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  13. Jul 7, 2022 at 7:00 PM
    #13
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    That pic didn't quite come through (Edit: It's fixed now!). You can just drag-drop into the typing box and it'll auto-upload and attach to your post.

    Others have reported similar in the past: Clearing codes will result in the engine running normal, until the ECU finishes running its various checks, short or long term, and realizes something is wrong. Then it typically goes back to how it was.

    I hope it's not the case for you, but ... dunno.

    And again - bad gas has clearly been the cause of this with others, so if it doesn't come back, there's your culprit. May be worth throwing a dose of Heet in the tank.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2022
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  14. Jul 8, 2022 at 6:23 AM
    #14
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Now the picture is fixed, I see the plug. I see a little sign of carbon along the last couple of threads, otherwise clean.

    The electrode tip also looks bent? Did you try gapping the plug before install? (they're pre-set gap)

    And curious, where'd you buy those? They look legit, just curious.
     
  15. Jul 8, 2022 at 6:50 AM
    #15
    ehowitzer

    ehowitzer [OP] New Member

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    The plugs are from RockAuto.com and they are reportedly Denso plugs. They cam pre-gapped, and I didn't adjust them. They have been in the vehicle now for just under a year.

    I'm considering trying a fuel treatment for good measure. Is Heet your recommended product? I know there are several on the market (dryer/antifreeze/injector cleaner).
     
  16. Jul 8, 2022 at 7:12 AM
    #16
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Was the electrode actually bent? Or is it an optical illusion?

    I mean, I'm a SeaFoam guy through and through. Use it in the tank, use it for overwinter storage of my compressor, generator, mower, etc, use it in my crankcase a couple hundred miles before oil change, and use it in my intake for top-end cleaning, going on decades now. It has a wild array of uses.

    That said, Heet has been around for longer than me. It's not a gimmick. It's basically a type of alcohol, it will absolutely pull residual water out of gasoline and combust it. If you got bad gas, either due to water in it or otherwise, Heet will help pull the water out, SeaFoam would help stabilize the fuel.

    STP also has some quality products in this arena. I haven't seen many new "miracle" products hit the market. SeaFoam, Heet, and Marvel Mystery Oil are three that I've stuck with because I've seen all three work, to an impressive degree.

    If I were you, I'd be applying both SeaFoam and Heet to my current tank of gas. If you have 1/3 or more tank of gas, I'd be using a full bottle of SeaFoam, and I think Heet is 1 bottle per 10gal of gas, you'd need to do the math based on how much is in your tank.

    Quick edit: Iso-Heet (red label) is the product you'll want to get to dry out the fuel. Not just the regular Heet (blue label). I just walked by mine on the way to the truck, and realized I should clarify this.
     
  17. Jul 8, 2022 at 7:59 AM
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    ehowitzer

    ehowitzer [OP] New Member

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    The electrodes looked pretty straight, and similar to me when I removed the plugs, so it must be an optical illusion. :)

    Thanks for the treatment advice. I'll do the red label Heet, and Seafoam today.
     
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  18. Jul 8, 2022 at 9:48 AM
    #18
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Don't forget about us over here if you don't see another episode in the next few weeks. Would be nice if we could chalk another 'misfire on all even cylinders' up to bad gas.

    I found this handy-dandy PDF snippet showing the ignition system, including the location of the camshaft sensor and the crankshaft sensor. I'm dropping it here just 'cause.
     

    Attached Files:

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  19. Jul 8, 2022 at 2:28 PM
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    fivil

    fivil New Member

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    electrode.jpg

    Looks bent to me, and you are having misfires...
     
  20. Jul 8, 2022 at 3:34 PM
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    ehowitzer

    ehowitzer [OP] New Member

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    That's just a shadow. The pin is actually straight. :) I'll try and take a better picture. If it is the plug, then my misfire should follow it anyway right?
     
  21. Jul 8, 2022 at 5:04 PM
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    fivil

    fivil New Member

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    Maybe the whole set is defective. Maybe someone botched setting the gap. Maybe the insulator now has micro cracks. Maybe the electrode is internally fractured. The misfire would follow if it's the only one.

    You uploaded a high quality pic, and I can't see how a shadow would look bright and silvery like that pin leaning to the left, but it's just a pic, so who knows.
     
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  22. Jul 8, 2022 at 11:11 PM
    #22
    zgurrola21

    zgurrola21 New Member

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    I think you have the same problem I had a year ago, I had multiples codes popping up the same as yours saying, “multiple misfire”
    It would run rough sometimes even to the point if would shut off and so I think your intake manifold is leaking where the manifold meets the block, you need pour a little bit of water or use something to detect the leak, if it’s the leak then it should be an a somewhat simple fix, the part is cheap you just need to buy a intake manifold gasket but make sure it you install it correctly it should come with markings because they need to be placed correctly.
     
  23. Jul 9, 2022 at 12:14 AM
    #23
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    @bmf4069 had to replace his intake gaskets due to having vaccum issues and surging. Not sure if OP is having similar surging issues at all but here's a post anyway.
    https://www.tundras.com/threads/where-did-my-smooth-4-7-go-engine-surge.103595/#post-2661804

    Could spray carb cleaner around intake gasket area and see if RPM changes.
     
  24. Jul 11, 2022 at 8:25 AM
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    ehowitzer

    ehowitzer [OP] New Member

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    So just an update. I've driven the Sequoia for two days now with no apparent misfires and no codes. I've got it up to speed and temperature, and worked it as I normally would. So far so good. This is a synopsis of what I did:
    - swapped the coil packs and spark plugs from Cyl #2 to Cyl #1 (moved banks).
    - removed the crank position sensor, and checked the wiring. Cleaned and reinstalled it.
    - added a bottle of Heet (red label) and a bottle of Seafoam to my half tank of gas, and filled the tank with mid grade fuel. I normally just run regular (87 octane) and the mid grade is 89 octane). Fuel is from the same source as the fuel in the tank (Fred Meyer).

    I'm not confident that the problem is solved yet, but I'll keep you all updated as I get more information.
     
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  25. Jul 18, 2022 at 6:09 AM
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    ehowitzer

    ehowitzer [OP] New Member

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    Here's an additional update. Since the last post I've put two tanks of fuel through the Sequoia. One 87 octane (mid grade) and one 89 octane (premium).

    I had one short episode where I felt some misfires after about 15 minutes of driving (on the first tank of fuel), but it only lasted a few seconds and has not happened again. I still have not had any warning lights or codes on the ODB. Could this episode have been some residual issue with the fuel?

    I doubt that my issue is fixed, but it seems that I can't really do much until I have consistent symptoms to diagnose the problem. :-(
     
  26. Jul 18, 2022 at 6:31 AM
    #26
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Sure it can. Only time will tell, I guess?

    It's impossible for any of us to really say without looking at live data while the issue is happening. I've had phantom issues pop up on my 1st Gen, only to have them never show up again, after years. I'd feel a lot better knowing what caused them, but I'm not so fortunate!

    Roll with it, maybe it was residual. I'd also sign up at the Toyota Owners website, then look at the service records for your vehicle, since you have none. I'd also consider paying for a Carfax just to see what service records they may have on file. May give you some insight into what the previous owner(s) have done.

    While there are a bajillion things that could potentially cause this, if it's clear the (4) O2 sensors haven't been replaced and maybe the MAF has never been replaced, at 225k miles, these sensors are time-limited parts which will cause any modern EFI engine to do weird shit when they start going out, and failure an show intermittent symptoms. If an engine can't adequately detect how much air is entering the engine, it doesn't know how much gas to spray. If it can't see what the mixture is after combustion, it won't know how to adjust. It's flying blind.

    Just make sure when replacing those two sensors specifically, you (a) go with OEM parts, OEM MAF was Hitachi brand, and (b) don't buy from scAmazon, fleaBay, or WallyMart due to counterfeit risks.
     
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  27. Jul 18, 2022 at 6:58 PM
    #27
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    Is your regular gas there 85 octane?
     
  28. Jul 21, 2022 at 12:22 PM
    #28
    ehowitzer

    ehowitzer [OP] New Member

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    No I misspoke. Out regular is 87 octane, midgrade is 89, and premium is 91. Sorry for the confusion.

    So, I have, since my last post, cleaned the throttle body and MAF. I have also had a couple of short episodes of misfires (running like its missing), which are most noticeable at idle, but I'm pretty sure, based on feel, that they are happening at driving rpm also. I still have no codes and no Check Engine Light. :-(
     
  29. Jul 21, 2022 at 6:58 PM
    #29
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    Ah ok. Just making sure you weren't running 85 on a regular basis like some states sell.

    Seems like sometimes these trucks take a stupid long time to throw a misfire code.
     
  30. Jul 21, 2022 at 8:12 PM
    #30
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    I keep getting this thread and the other thread confused.

    Anytime I read "multi-misfire" threads, I feel like I'm constantly going back to the same thing: After countless threads, it's kinda clear to me, only a couple of years new to the 2UZ-FE and/or the 1st gen platform is very sensitive to (a) fuel pressure, (b) O2 sensor feedback, (c) air input, i.e. MAF and TB, (d) using OEM parts from a genuine source.

    I feel like the "bad fuel" situation here could suggest (a) or (b) could be the issue. Either bad fuel exposed the possibility the fuel pump is about to take a shit, or bad fuel, exposed a problem with one or more O2 sensors being unable to deal with accounting with measuring extra water/unexpected BS in the gas.

    I feel like you should be able to do a visual check of the O2 sensors and potentially determine whether they look even remotely new, and/or have been hacked, extended, or replaced with non-OEM, whatever. If they look new, maybe they were replaced, but with inferior units.

    If they look original, and are pretty ate up looking, maybe proactively replacing both on the bank which is misfiring is good insurance. If the problem doesn't resolve after a full drive/test cycle, maybe try the other bank/side - its's cheap enough to get Denso sensors.

    If that doesn't resolve it, I'd really be suspicious of that damn fuel pump. Especially given the mileage here. My last truck was a '98 with around 90k miles and the pump went out. It happens. Sometimes it's more a function of age and/or abuse, i.e. if you drive to 1/4 tank or less often, or the pump isn't baffled in a way it sits in liquid at all times for cooling purposes, allowing it to regularly overheat. I've seen all kinds of stuff.

    Anyway, just babbling more than anything. The more I'm crunching on this, the more I keep going back to exactly exactly these points.

    At 200k+ miles, It wouldn't be remotely crazy to proactively replace any of the above. They'll be lasting another 100k+ miles easily, if not 200k+
     
    ehowitzer[QUOTED][OP] likes this.

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