2001 Tundra Timing Belt

Greetings, I’m new to this sight. I was given an 2001 Tundra RWD from Florida with 189,000 miles on it, I just had to pick it up and drive it back to New England. Owner said that the timing belt was never changed. I prayed all the way home that it wouldn’t break. Thank God it made it.
I ordered an AISIN kit for $185. free shipping from EBay. I was surprised the kit didn’t come with a thermostat housing gasket.
To my amazement the old belt was in decent shape with no markings on it. Is that normal? I was told dropping the Air Compressor was necessary, it isn’t. You don’t need to remove the back bolt. I was also told you need to drop the power steering pump, you don’t. You just need to remove bolts and slide it forward enough to slide the alternator off. I’m very happy with AISIN parts and the job wasn’t as difficult as I thought it would be.

 

Nice job and feedback. You have the V8? Post up pics of the truck and repair if you have them.

 

Greetings and welcome. Just had mine done a week ago. Belt looked very good. The consensus is that very few t belts have actually broken. It is an interference engine though. My change intervals were 87k, then went another 190K before changing last time. My best friend has an '03 Sequoia he bought new..... 415K+ miles and original belt.... I wouldn't do that. But like I said, my belt with 190 K on it looked great... it was just a lot flimsier.

 

I've had a belt go over 160k and saw no cracking, but that doesn't mean the belt hasn't stretched or that the tensioners haven't worn out. So I would limit any belt to double the life expectancy and make sure I change it then.

As for removing the air compressor, I leave it on to, I just loosen the back bolt to relieve any tension on mating parts. As for the steering pump I leave one bolt partially in and just swing the pump out of the way.

 

I changed the timing belt on my wife'03 4runner with the 4.7 v8 . I inspected the belt and 2 of the grooves we're scarred up pretty bad.The thing about timing belts are you don't really know until you check them. I have changed my 2000 tundra timing belt 3 times now and they all looked good.It just takes one broken or slipped belt to end up buying another engine!!

 

Thanks for your feedback guys. I didn’t want to take any chances either. $200.and my labor is a lot cheaper than searching for an engine or junking truck.

 

Question, is the normal oil pressure gauge reading at idle right around 1/4 and at acceleration just over 1/2?
Having just replaced the timing belt and getting it back on the road I never really paid that close attention to the gauge before but thought it was higher.
Thank you.

 

This is a normal question on the 1st Gen Tundras. Yes is the answer. These engines spike that gauge.

 

Agreed, at idle the oil pressure is about 15 lbs, and maybe 30 at running speed. The pressure will change somewhat depending on the weight of oil you use or how dirty you let the oil get, but I don't think I have ever seen my pressure gauge get all the way to the mid point.

 

Puzzled! Went to inspect my Tundra. My check engine light was on so I had it checked and the O2 senors had to be replaced. I bought two upstream and two downstream and changed all sensors. Disconnected the negative battery post to reset the light. Light stayed out for about two days and is back on. If I reset the light and drive 50 miles or so shouldn’t that reset the emissions so I can resinspect it?

 

First, I recommend getting your own code reader, they are not to expensive online, and after you do any work you can clear any codes without having to disconnect the battery. I hate having to reset the radio stations.

Second, those oxygen sensors can come unplugged easily, so make sure you check that for an easy fix. Also check for kinked wires.

Third, it can take up to 80 miles for the computer to update.

And lastly, you very well may have corrected your oxygen sensor issue and now may have a new issue. Good luck!

 

Thank you for your reply. What code reader would you recommend?
I’m going to run through your checklist this morning then take it for a ride border to border (R.I. 48 miles North to South) to be sure enough miles are registered. Then bring it to the inspection station. Thanks again.

 

Bill58,

I have a Memoscan U581, it isn't top of the line, nor is it the cheapest unit around, but it works great every time i turn it on. The only thing that really is required is that the scanner must be OBDII compliant. If you look on the web you will probably find 300 different scanners to scratch your head and wonder about buying. Autozone and O'Reilly's also have their own models for sale.

 

Lost Highway,
Thank you, I’ll look into the scanner you mentioned. I drove 100 miles and went to get my truck reinspected. The code p0420 came up, bank 1 Catalytic Converter needs replacing. Perhaps the o2 sensors didn’t need replacing after all. With 190,000 miles I guess it didn’t hurt to replace them anyway.

 

I’ve had bad luck with certain brands of O2 sensors in my previous vehicles. I think it was Bosch that my dodge didn’t like. Sometimes the O2 sensors in them selves just aren’t compatible. Even though it fits.

 

Or, it could have been both the sensors AND the CC needed replacing.

 

Bill58,
I guess I got luckier than you, my cats (both) went first, at 250k. I did a lot of research upfront and found a kit that was available that replaced both cats, all 4 oxygen sensors and the pipes that bolted on between the exhaust manifolds and the mufflers, the whole middle section of the exhaust system, and someone hear locally to do the work for me. It took 4 days to get the kit delivered to the shop (still using the truck for everyday use until delivery) and about an hour and a half to get the kit installed (i never broke a sweat).

I'd replace both cats if i were you, not just bank 1 (driver side). I will also mention that you might be able to get more life out of your cats with some additives you can use to clean your cats too. Cataclean is one product that you can use and probably is the most effective, I also have used Seafoam internal combustion cleaner spray to do some engine system cleaning. There is also a driving tip i can give you, don't get on the highway or up to highway type speeds until your exhausts are up to running temperatures, because your cats aren't efficient until they are up to temp.

 

Thanks Lost Hwy.
The mechanic said he is absolutely certain it’s the Catalytic Converter. He doesn’t stand to gain anything because I do my own mechanics. I hope he’s right, I just ordered a new one. I do add an additive every once in awhile to keep things running smoothly. The Tundra is a spare vehicle for us. Every family needs a truck. I’ll keep you posted hopefully with a smile. Merry Christmas.

 

Welcome from Ct

 

Thank you Gerald. Happy to be onboard.

 

I’ve got a 01 tundra sitting at 208,445 and timing belt has never been done, I’m planning to do it asap, but just shows bulletproof these trucks really are

 

Post pics

 

From my Haynes service manual.