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2000 Toyota Tundra V8 Catalyst Monitor Incomplete

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by NyobZoo, Feb 5, 2020.

  1. Feb 5, 2020 at 5:13 PM
    #1
    NyobZoo

    NyobZoo [OP] New Member

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    Hello, I am new to this forum and seeking for help.

    First of all, the truck was in maintenance due to cracked exhaust manifold (the mechanic put an used one on about 4-5 months ago and I could hear the sound of what seems to be a cracked exhaust manifold coming back... Does that affect the catalyst monitor to be incomplete?) and recently put a new catalytic converter (driver side) since the mechanic said a code P0240 popped up.

    So for the past month and a half after the fail smog check, the Tundra has been driven about 1000 miles with the catalyst monitor still incomplete and all other monitors completed. I've been driving the truck per the instructions on the TSB readiness monitor drive patterns for 5-6 times and as closely as possible (catalyst monitor 02S type), but still the catalyst monitor is not complete. I will try it a few more times this week and see if it will set the monitor to ready.

    Any other tips or advice on how to set the catalyst monitor to be complete will be appreciated.
     
  2. Feb 5, 2020 at 5:26 PM
    #2
    N84434

    N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

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    I would start by pulling the negative terminal off the battery for 10 minutes or so. This will allow the ECM to reset and when you restart the truck, it should start reading all the monitors again.
    Also, do you have a code scanner you can plug into the OBDll port, under the dash? You can reset the monitors using that as well. Pulling the battery cable s like a hard reset, however...

    are you certain there are no exhaust leaks on the new manifold?
     
  3. Feb 5, 2020 at 6:59 PM
    #3
    NyobZoo

    NyobZoo [OP] New Member

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    If pulling the battery cable is a hard reset, wouldn't it just set all the monitors to incomplete and I would need to run the car more to get them all to be set to complete?
    I do have an OBDll code scanner but it doesn't reset the monitors on the scanner.

    I'm certain it sounds like a cracked exhaust manifold leak because I had it replaced and now the used exhaust manifold is beginning to tick again.
     
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  4. Feb 5, 2020 at 7:56 PM
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    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    Correct, pulling the cable will set you back, I wouldnt do that. Exhaust leak won't stop the monitor either.

    What year truck?

    Does your motor get up to temp very slowly?

    I'm in Ventura, I imagine Fresno is having the same "cold" weather we are having. For the drive cycle to work your motor has to stay pretty warm. If you've done the cycle with OD on, try it with OD off. The extra rpm should generate the heat needed for the monitor to complete its run. If that doesn't work you can try in 2nd gear, the rpm shouldn't go crazy high.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2020
  5. Feb 5, 2020 at 8:44 PM
    #5
    8MINT8

    8MINT8 #NotBetty

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    Have you checked all 4 O2 sensors? I had the same problem after a battery change. Changed all 4 O2 sensors and was done after 30 mins of driving.
     
  6. Feb 5, 2020 at 11:19 PM
    #6
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    Move to a free state.

    Sorry, thats the best I've got.
     
  7. Feb 6, 2020 at 2:11 AM
    #7
    773_eddie

    773_eddie Trd Pro

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    Darkness is correct Reset all monitors again and what I do after that is drive on the hyway at 60mph some cars monitors complete fast and some take time I had a
    2001 Dodge caravan 3 miles
    2002 town and country 250 miles
    2010 suzuki Forenza 90 miles
    1999 Honda Odyssey 4 miles
    2000 Nissan Xterra 7 miles
    When a vehicle is being stubborn I turn off the ignition on at the stop light of the off ramp restart the car and get back on the hyway some vehicles are a pain in the ass and the evap on some vehicles takes 2 days to complete because it runs test wen the vehicle is parked with ignition off it monitors the pressure in the fuel tank to check for evap leaks in my state of Illinois I can pass with the evap monitor not complete. Good luck
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2020
    bmf4069 and NyobZoo[OP] like this.
  8. Feb 6, 2020 at 3:49 AM
    #8
    zombie

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    I think you mean code P0420. If you are not throwing O2 sensor codes, then you have to hook up the scanner and watch your O2 cross counts. If one of those sensor is a little slow, but not throwing a code most likely that O2 sensor. These things are not made to last forever. I would change them anyways. Most likely your issue. Very rarely is it the cat on these. A tiny exhaust leak shouldn't effect it......a bigger one could. Fix it anyways.
     
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  9. Feb 6, 2020 at 10:16 AM
    #9
    NyobZoo

    NyobZoo [OP] New Member

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    2000 Toyota Tundra. I let it idle for about 5-10 minutes each time to get it to the TBS pre-conditions. I've done the catalyst monitor cycle with OD on but not off. Will try that today. I've only drove in D2 with the RPM at around 3000 once. Should try that again today also.
     
  10. Feb 6, 2020 at 10:18 AM
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    NyobZoo

    NyobZoo [OP] New Member

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    I don't know how to check all 4 O2 sensors. The I/M readiness test says that my O2S are completed though. Just the CAT that is incomplete.
     
  11. Feb 6, 2020 at 11:39 AM
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    Darkness

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    An exhaust leak won't stop the monitor from happening, it might deliver a fail value but that's different than a "not ready".

    I would take the truck on a good drive with OD off to get temps up, idling won't get you there. It needs to be around 175* for the monitor to activate, if you don't have a way to monitor temps then go for a spirited drive with ODoff first. Then try the drive cycle in 2nd gear, OD off. You should be between 3k and 3500 rpm that way, not a dangerous range but enough to keep temps from dropping. Others have done this and found success. If that fails you may even have a bad thermostat, that can cause problems reaching and sustaining the temp range.

    If that doesn't work, I might try resetting the battery and start over, but only as a last resort. If you can, see if any Autozones or the like rent out better scan tools. I have never looked j to it for a Tundra but I have one for my VW that can kick off monitors without driving. I figured out how to use it 2 years ago to troubleshoot and activate my secondary air injection readiness monitor.
    Screenshot_20200206-113721_Photos.jpg
     
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  12. Feb 6, 2020 at 12:08 PM
    #12
    NyobZoo

    NyobZoo [OP] New Member

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    I do have a scanner that can read ECT, IAT, etc temperatures. I don't think my thermostat is bad since the ECT stays above 175F, but will look into that if it is not a complicated thing to take out.

    I'm frustrated and guess my last resort would only have to be to disconnect the battery to reset all monitors and run the truck up and down the 99 for a good 30 minutes.
     
  13. Feb 6, 2020 at 12:35 PM
    #13
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Been Real

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    Happen to be learning last couple weeks while dealing with O2's live data via Techstream and a Innova dongle before changing the O2's. Thru this, I'm learning Readiness Monitor Drive Pattern. Having said all that, you mentioned in first post about a code being present....is this still the case and is the MIL on ?
    Read your responses 3 times and apologize if I overlooked but as I follow this thread, I am learning the consequences of undoing the battery and all this relearning the ECU has to do....so thanks for the thread and good luck with your issue !

    The reason I ask about MIL is because what the FSM says about that regarding Catalyst Monitor Readiness....

     
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  14. Feb 6, 2020 at 12:39 PM
    #14
    NyobZoo

    NyobZoo [OP] New Member

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    Yes, the MIL is off. Everything is in good status, just the CAT is incomplete.
     
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  15. Feb 6, 2020 at 6:00 PM
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    N84434

    N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

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    I only mentioned the hard reset, as occasionally the ECM can misinterpret info and give you a false positive, (ie P0420 O2 sensor code, when in reality There may be an exhaust leak)

    if you find that you do in fact have an exhaust manifold leak, you need to take care of the leak first, so the ECM is seeing the correct values in the Pre and Post O2 sensors. The potential manifold leak would be causing that side of the engine to run lean, which would then tell the engine to add more fuel to those injectors, which could confuse the ECM and result in your monitor issues...
     
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  16. Feb 7, 2020 at 1:53 PM
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    8MINT8

    8MINT8 #NotBetty

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    My O2 were not throwing a code and no check engine lights. My readiness was not completing also after 800 miles of driving.

    How new are your cat O2 sensors? I decided to swap all 4 to new because they were OEM with 205k miles and the cats were still good. I am suggesting try the 2 downstream because your truck has same symptoms as mine.
     
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  17. Feb 19, 2020 at 4:54 AM
    #17
    BubbaW

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    Did Catalyst Monitor ever complete ?
     
  18. Feb 19, 2020 at 5:16 AM
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    zombie

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    So having a first Gen with 355,000 miles on it and still had the original exhaust from 2000 on it......with many patch jobs done to it........so had occasional small leaks here and there, and a manifold leak on cold start up................................and not once did I have a issue like your having. So unless you have some major leak, I really think you either have a lazy O2 sensor...........if they are all working, then your Cat could well be the problem. But I almost doubt that because these Cats can take a beating and last a very long time. It's Not a Chevy. You should be able to watch the O2 action on your scanner. At engine operating temperature they should be jumping all over the place. If one is slowly changing numbers, that's your issue. It's called O2 sensor cross counts.
     
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  19. Feb 23, 2020 at 12:05 AM
    #19
    T4x4

    T4x4 New Member

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    I’m having the same problem with my 2000 4.7 160,000 mi. Did you find out what it was
     
  20. Mar 17, 2020 at 12:50 PM
    #20
    NyobZoo

    NyobZoo [OP] New Member

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    I took it to a smog repair shop and they said it was both of my downstream O2 sensors since they were "lazy". They were not getting any voltage and should be fluctuating in voltage. They also did the TSB testing for me and said the truck passed for smog.
     
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