1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Weird. I’ve never used mine as well in the 24 years I owned the truck. Never used that particular outlet either when I have the other two below.

 

Watched a few videos and did some research how bad are the leaf spring bushings to replace on these

 

It was 30 feet. I'm so pissed I exaggerate lol.

 

I guess it depends on what style bushings they are and how willing you are to mangle the old ones. New poly bushings go in super easy. But I can't remember what kind of bushings the OEM leafs have.

 

I can't say anything about leaf bushings, but I do know that OEM steering rack bushings, especially the drivers side, is a sucky design where the poly bushings are much nicer for future replacement.

 

Happy birthday Noah
@Tundra2

 

X2.
HBD @Noah2

 

Oh snap. Happy birthday my dude. @BigPapi

 

Happy Birthday!!! @Tundra2

 

Use a gas axe to get the spring’s metal eyelet hot. The rubber will then start to smoke and might catch on fire. A few moments later the rubber bushing will self eject out of the spring. Make sure to do this outside in the gravel.

 

Gonna take a look at this 04 sequoia after work. Needs a full front end rebuild and a timing belt soon. 171k and 2wd but he only wants $500. I’m pretty sold without even looking in person.

 

Why so cheap, won't pass smog?

 

He can’t afford the estimate at my buddy’s shop to repair everything. He’s also an old man so he’s getting a car that’s easier to get in and out of. I have ways of getting anything smogged.

 

Damn, for $500.00 I'd be hard pressed not to buy it in that situation too.

 

2003 AC SR5 4x4 4.7 L V8
We killed dad's battery back when we had the "No initial combustion (Does not start)" problem. He went to Costco and got the battery with the largest CCAs that would fit his truck. It was an AGM battery. We didn't know what that was and had no idea that it could be a problem. He's now having the typical problems that have been captured piecemeal on this forum. While the megathread gives a nod to those issues, best I can tell is that it points you down a rabbit hole where there is no solid summary of the issues or fixes.

IIUC, AGM batteries require a charging profile that the stock Gen1 electrics cannot provide. There seem to be at least 4 different approaches to solving this problem if I chase all the threads. IMO the two simplest are as follows:

1) Buy this very special (and expensive) drop in replacement fuse/diode combination from Australia...
2) Buy this really cheap stock GM fuse from some place like O'Reilly's...

...and stick in the ALT-S fuse slot under the hood, replacing the existing 7.5A fuse.

Is that a fair summary? Is there any chance the GM diode will allow too much current on that circuit and fry the electrics?

EDIT: These guys appear to be US-based and offer an in-between option.
EDIT: Adding this post with a good summary of diode preparation.

 

Ive had AGM batteries in my Tundra for almost 8 years since i bought it and have had zero issues. Curious to hear more about this though!

 

Search "AGM" in this post for said rabbit hole.

 

AGMs like a slightly higher voltage than conventional batteries to get a full charge, that's all the diode is doing. I think it raises the charging voltage up to like 14-14.5V. You'd be amazed at the voltage range that most electronics in vehicles are designed to handle, well above what the battery will be seeing under normal charging, and that's also why you have fuses. What are the problems you're seeing?

I run AGM or lithium batteries in my motorcycles, and it's not uncommon for the voltage regulator/rectifier to do it's damnedest to fry the rest of the electrical system when it starts to die. Usually the first thing you notice is the headlights get really bright because the charging system is sending 18V to the battery. Even when that happens the battery is more likely to be damaged than anything else on the bike.

 

He's not getting a good charge on the battery. Voltage with engine turned off is a flat 12.0, which has led to hard start. With the engine on, voltage looks good.

 

The diode works fine so long as it's installed in the correct direction. May also require some slight trimming to fit depending on the diode you end up buying.

$9 GM Genuine Parts 12135037 Multi-Function Diode

Here's an option that can generally be ordered for next day delivery.
That said, I ran for several years with an AGM and no diode with no adverse effects. Effectively it will just shorten the life of the AGM battery because it never gets fully charged to 100% by the alternator. You can use a trickle charger periodically to help maintain the service life and capacity.

 

What's the voltage you're getting at the battery at idle? Do you have a battery charger? Throw it on the truck overnight and see what the battery sits at in the morning. Could be the lack of a diode, could be the battery is dying, could be oxidation in the main charging cable from the alternator to the battery. The diode isn't going to hurt anything, but you might want to troubleshoot a bit more.

 

The battery is brand spanking new and there were no charging issues before we killed the last (regular) battery trying to start an un-start-able truck. Let me try the diode and I'll report back later.

 

Paperwork is signed, dealership has to mail me paperwork to sign and mail back then it's mine. Should be here before next weekend hopefully.

 

Had a wheel come loose on my factory 5 spoke wheels. The lug nuts that came with the truck are the cone style. Are these supposed to be the flat style with washers attached?

 

Was deffo more than a "slight" trim on mine. I had to grind/file flat every side for it to truly fit in the slot fully.

 

Look in the lug hole on the wheel. Is it tapered at the base or flat?

If tapered seat, you need a tapered nut. If flat seat, you need these (which I'm pretty sure those OEM wheels should use):

​

 

You should bring it to Merus.

 

I was hoping @Sirfive would take it for a ride and judge my purchase accordingly.

 

Driving around normally and the front right brake caliper seized. Wheel will barely turn and that brake is smoking hot.



I have a (Dorman) rebuild kit but would that solve the issue? Why in the world would it randomly stick on? My brake hoses are new so they aren’t stopped up. I’ve got time to to rebuild if I do it tonight…

 

Pop the caliper off and see if you can get the pistons to move.