1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

501 c.i. engine to boot.

Same, but out here in the desert we don't have to worry about corrosion when the metal is exposed. I see cars from the 40's and 50's everyday that are just now forming surface rust. It's just that arid and acts as a natural inhibitor. Hard on the skin, though, because otoh I see 40 y.o. women who look 70.

 

I picked up a Ridgid right angle impact driver and 4.0 Ah battery when the kit went on sale last year. (My dad, brother, and me all have Ridgid tools, which helps when we work on projects together.) I chose that over the right angle wrench to provide some versatility. Generally, right angle tools like these are made for tight places, so I don't understand why all of them don't have the battery parallel with the body like the Makita above, rather than perpendicular like the one I got below.

 

My Ryobi 3/8" electric ratchet is this way, but the head can swivel 270 degrees to put the battery pack out of the way.

 

This is the closest thing I could find to the box you displayed in your post. Since it includes a relay, I'm guessing you were forced to run your own wiring. Was that the case or was the kit plug-and-play?

 

That is the same part number, no pic to confirm though. Not plug and play, have to run a ground wire to the frame and adapt the power wire to plug in to it. Factory horns ground when they are bolted in.

 

Picked up a couple of these zero-gravity chairs before our trip next week from Bezos' place for ~$32 for the pair. If they last 1 season I'm good with that. Love these things.

 

maybe not as good, but these are plug and play.


HELLA 012010901

 

They sell wiring kits for fitting Hellas to our trucks. Don't need a relay for this size horn, especially since our trucks come with dual horns. The wiring kit is a bit over priced for what you get, but the alternative is cutting the harness.

$12 SEINECA 2pcs Car Horn Special Plug Compatible with Toyota Horn Adapter Wiring Harness Cable Car Horn Converter Wiring.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0991MVZNY

 

Those are made for plumbers and electricians to run pipes and wiring through wall studs. They don't care as much about the battery orientation.

 

Hey guys, refresh my memory on the Senkei 555 ball joints, please. I know empty lord says not to use them for lowers and aftermarket is acceptable for uppers but any other verified info out there?

 

Plumbers. Meh.

Had a fun one in the Maine house today with plumber surprises.

Spot the bluetooth floor joist (7 o'clock on the toilet flange), and note the flange is glued onto the lead pipe under it, that being which is the reason for the bluetooth joist. I suspect this house probably didn't have a shitter upstairs when built, so a hack came in and was apparently too lazy to run the flange between joists.

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Larger edition:

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There are no Irish people working at my O’Reillys LAP even with the St. Paddy’s Day decorations in the window.

 

Old houses are like a box of chocolates... You never know what you'll find inside. So many people have worked on them.

 

So many people that should never work on a house have worked on them.

 

On the upside, there is a tiny 1" sliver of joist still there. But this finally explains why jumping up and down alongside the toilet caused the tank lid to hop a bit.

 

I find it's plumbers and HVAC folks who tend to be the biggest hacks. Sparkies are usually fairly good about stuff.

 

Post pic of your fix for that @shifty`

 

Rock Auto Code emailed to me today 332456304285589001

 

I charge $100/hr & change my name with every project.

 

I think you give electchickens way too much credit.

 

As much as it pains me, I’m sidelined on this one because we’re not up in Maine right now. We've got our hands on a solid GC up there doing the work. Lots of respect for the guy, he knows his shit, has good subs working for him that aren’t hacks. He does a great job of keeping me posted, sending pics of the work before/during/after each day in case there's anything I see and want him to resolve.

This whole BS with the flange came about when he asked if I wanted the flange replaced and toilet supply line cleaned up. I've seen his plumber's work already, and it's been great so far. Clean, and exactly like I'd do it. So I told him, “sure!”

A few minutes later the 1st pic came thru, which was unusually early. Then I noticed the adhesive/sealant squeezed out around the edge of the flange (as I'm sure he did) and we both knew something was up. Popped up the subfloor, realized why: lead pipe under, which is why they glued it. And of course saw the joist damage in the process, and asked him where the joist went.

Popped a built-in cabinet off the wall to see how things were tied into the stack, and it was super wide open back there, and I planned to get rid of the rotting cast iron anyway. So I popped the Q ... "shit, while you're in there with the wall open, may as well update the rotting cast iron stack too, eh...?"

So he checked the wall on the main floor below this and it was also standard framing/2x4 and drywall, so easy access. They tossed out a reasonable amount to update the entire drain stack from the basement ceiling to the top floor, and … well, it’ll be about 5% of the quoted job to redo it all, so we’re killing two birds with one stone, since I really don’t want to need to open up these floors or wall again for another 10-15 years if I can avoid it.

I'd like to see them sister/scab what's left of the joist, but ... I'll know more soon.

I'd really prefer to be there, but it's the only working full bath in the entire house, so we're having it done while we’re arranging house sale here in ATL and the kids finish out their school. I’m paying twice as much this way, but whatever. We'll move in with one very nice, fully working bathroom for the four of us to share (for now). Remodel, new everything except the toilet paper dispenser is coming in under $20k. Updating from single to a 60” double vanity, new toilet, new tub, tiled-in shower, all new fixtures, full mirror, new waterproof flooring (replacing linoleum), medicine cabinet, vanity light, some electrical cleaned up, and modernizing some of the electrical.

Architect is coming over Thursday to start architectural drawings for the main house, and measure out things for the detached 2-car garage with my workshop, and overhead living space. Whether we will stay in the main house or rent it is yet to be seen. Still gotta figure out how to get a 2-post lift, it may go outdoors, under a high bay.

 

They usually aren’t dealing with the size of pipes and ducts HVAC and plumbing are, so the opportunity to fuck structural shit up is much lower. I don’t think it’s a matter of profession so much as materials.

 

What size socket for spark plug removal do I need for my 2005 tundra? Also do you like a magnetic spark plug socket or one with the rubber Gromit inside? also I’m about to follow Shifty’s plan and advise for greasing all zerk fittings has anyone used the needle attachment for the grease gun to access any of these more difficult zerk fittings?

 

Can I find you at the local bar for a consult?

 

What blows my mind is this was done decades ago, was it not? It’s certainly not PVC being used. Moving the toilet ahead 4-5 inches apparently was a deal breaker.

 

Read these:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-do-i-grease-this-zerk.165082/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/help-with-greasing-front-4wd-driveshaft.152061/

 

I’m losing the battle to the sun more everyday. Clear is leaving the doors now on the passenger side.

 

Yes, likely, at least a couple decades ago.

There's a few cool finds today. I'll share.

Toilet is above the hole in the lath - in fact you can see this hole from the other pic of the flange. That 1950s wallpaper up that boxed-in portion? The original cast iron stack is behind that box-in. They added the stud-framed/sheetrocked outer box here so they could run HVAC to the upstairs, and pump heat into the upstairs hall, front bedroom, and bathroom.

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Inner box around the cast iron removed, revealing the upstairs sewer stack:

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Sewer stack removed, looking up into the hole, you can see a lot. HVAC piping going up to a box, which feeds hallway and bathroom and you can barely make out a round vent hose along a stud up there that feeds heat to the front bedroom. Chimney stack is in the upper-center of the pic, you can barely make out the bricks. At the top of the blue/white wallpaper, you see some of the off-white (possibly asbestos) tile we just had removed from the dining room ceiling. Unsecured electrical runs, probably from the 1970s/1980s based on the age/style of the wire casing. Some even older (1920s/1930s?) wallpaper that was likely originally white with speckles, or maybe tan, so two generations of wallpaper here.

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Close-up in the hole:

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Oh, and that toilet flange is definitely PVC.

They used construction adhesive or sealant to glue it onto the preexisting lead pipe.

That lead pipe, and the copper drain for the shower (to the left) and vanity sink (to the right) all feed into the cast iron stack which is on the other side of the wood trim behind the toilet supply line.