1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Don’t recommend trying these stupid paint pens they suck. Was trying to get more paint and it just exploded. I’m going to peel/clean it off tomorrow and wait for AT3’s with white letters.

 

Gotta commit and make them white walls now.

 

I don't really consider myself an overlander, but maybe somewhere between that and crawler. I do sleep in the truck bed.

 

So which came first, Boondocking or Overlanding?

 

Or galavanting

 

Your truck is telling you it doesn’t want white letters out…it’s a smart truck.

 

You need to prep yourself to sawzall off those rear shocks. You’d be in the first gen hall of fame if you get that top shock mount in the rear to bust loose.

It’s scary at first but once you get going it isn’t too bad. Just don’t cut into your frame or wiring.

 

Using your old springs? If your old shocks are OEM, you'll need to move the tophat and rubber isolator over with the springs.

 

It may work? But the traditional "cat cleaners" you buy at the store are bullshit.

 

EDIT: I just remembered that i did reinstall those cats, but i don’t remember if i kept them installed or used my other set. I completely forgot about the epic cloud of smoke that comprised of burning residual oil, boiling water steam, and a tantalizing smell of grape drink…i mean purple power. It took a while for those cats to dry out, so the steam cloud lasted for quite some time!

 

I was prepared to cut mine off, but they came free with a ratcheting wrench. I still think it's best to plan to have to cut them off and be pleasantly surprised if you don't.

 

We don’t salt our roads, so pretty much every west coast tundra would make it in the 1st gen hall of fame with having easy to loosen upper shock nuts.

 

OEM shock and springs, is moving the tophat and isolator over an issue or should it be fine to reuse them?

 

You can walk out to your truck right now and visually inspect your rubber isolator to make sure it's not cracking/warped/missing. It's this rubber bit, red arrow is pointing at its bottom edge, and the metal "tophat" is the little sliver that blue arrow points at:

​

​

 

I would guess overlanding, like Willys Overland. But then again, V8 cars could've been hauling camper trailers before that maybe?


Or

 

I'd say it's a toss up in TX.
If you're not from the coast or NTX, they usually come out fine. My 06 rears had to be cut off. My 03 rears came right off, no problemo.

 

That's a lot of trailer for that old 53 Chevy stovebolt 6 to be haulin. Keep in mind that was long before they started building modern lightweight trailers.

 

Reminds me of The Long Long Trailer with I Love Lucy.

I had that one on tape back in the day.

 

Unless you clamp the shock shaft that’s never going to happen in the rust belt without maybe cutting a slit in the nut with a dremel to help loosen that rust bond. I lifted my bed 3” on each side by loosening the belt bolts before sawzalling the top nut off.

 

Yeah based on my lack of rust, I thought it’d be a cake walk. Boy was I wrong.

 

Mine fell off with a stern look from @Sirfive.

 

So did mine.

 

Thank you! I have some other capri tools that have been great, I'll check that out.

 

Sequoia is throwing some codes - anyone familiar with P0037?



Google is telling me bank 1 downstream O2 sensor... does that sound right?

 

I was looking at the eastwood kit and it looks nice but it's outside my price range right now. I had probably 10k in logs on the back of my isuzu and blew a brake line pulling into the barn for the night. Ended up just grabbing a pre-flared line with fittings that was close enough to the right length and bending it up the next day.

 

Thank you, that's good info to save. Also, I have to put effort into figuring out multi quote.

 

Id be more worried about the camshaft sensor codes. But heater circuit on the O2 sensor will only affect startup cold weather performance of the O2 sensors. The vehicle initially runs open loop, then within a couple minutes (the heater gets the O2 sensor up to temp for readings) it switches to the O2 sensor info. Bank 1 sensor 2 should be drivers side rear O2 sensor. I would replace that sensor with Denso plug and play. The cam position sensor a new code? Could be the wire harness that runs down the front of the motor got misrouted and is getting eaten by the belt, or a faulty sensor. Replace with OEM only here too.

 

Im pretty sure the cam position code is from when the battery died - truck has been starting and running just fine and those codes aren't showing current or pending.

 

I know I made a bunch of tire/wheels posts but some acetone took off the tire paint I used. Then I saw I had an old can of maxima sc1 (moto guys will know). So I sprayed it on my wheels and tires and it came out really good.

 

Fare enough. I bought the tool a few years ago in a black friday sale, so it costed a bit less back then. I also usually have vehicle projects on the back burner that require all new brake lines, so i made actual cents for me to buy it.