1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Is that a C-130 reflecting in the hangar door glass?

 

Yep, CalFire started flying their C-130H fleet within the last year or two. They're upgrading the airport down in Ramona to support one.

Cool reading on their aircraft: https://34c031f8-c9fd-4018-8c5a-415...01adb9a&hash=A5EDA8AB55768C90263A7C5A2A6DA910

 

3 in the hanger along with a few S2’s

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyP0Sy9KFf0​

 

Would someone mind double checking me on a part? I'm looking for the little plastic clips into which the plastic "push pins" on the door panel sides seat. Per epc-data, looks like 90467-09122, but that doesn't seem to jibe when trying to order it. Thanks
p.s. Also need to replace vapor barrier if anyone has a genius idea. I'm probably overthinking it.

 

What do we think of white tire paint for the letters in Mickey Thompson Baja ATs? I bought some not sure if I’ll use it but kind of want to add a little contrast between my wheels/tires

 

I'm a white letter fan. I like the outlined white letters better than the solid, but the BFGs looked good in solid too. You'll have to do it, then post it up for opinions. I've thought about doing mine.

 

I like the outline better too I’m just a bit wary of my drawing skills/steady hand it will look like I wrote it myself lol

 

Same

 

Couple 3 drinks and the hand will steady right up
I am team white letters OUT. N/A on my new tires

 

You'll need a scan tool that can bleed the ABS pump and a master cylinder bleeder kit

$17 Dorman 14151 Master Cylinder Bleeder Kit

(LINK) . Bleeder kit is easy and cheap, if you don't already have the scanner that could be an expense.

Maybe you could get away without the ABS bleed, I don't remember there being much air at all at the wheels, I just made sure to bleed the master really well before hooking up the lines.

As I stated before, my car still does it every once in a while (every couple months maybe) but not as bad as before. It had done it off and on as long as I had owned the car but then got to doing it nearly every time I pressed the brakes.

 

Don't think there's a scan tool that will do that for these trucks.

 

He's working on the RAV
Original post https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-2851#post-4122898

 

Copy that, lunch table thread. Carry on.

 

The one I recently bought has that feature and I can read the ABS controller. I don’t have ABS though.

Edit: I might be wrong. It may just have an ABS reset and not a bleed feature.

 

Would someone point me to an old thread on whether or not to drain and fill a 250k plus transmission that's never been serviced? Know it's been beat to death....

Mine is at 275k and the CCN has me spooked....

 

I already have a bleeder kit from when I replaced the master cylinder on my truck. Thinking it should work for the RAV4 too. I'm hoping I can get away without having to mess with the ABS.

When you bled your system, did you go around all 4 wheels or just the front? Typically when I've done work up front, it's been a waste of time and fluid to bleed the rear wheels. Air isn't traveling back there.

 

Why not just drain 1/2 pint to send to Blackstone Labs for analysis? Usually it’s only an issue if you have a significant amount of clutch material suspended in the fluid preventing the inevitable slipping of the transmission.

 

I did all 4 with the ABS bleed. If I followed my scan tools instructions it wanted to bleed each wheel at least 4 times or more. I did each wheel a couple times but I really don't remember there being much air anywhere.

I bench bled the master on the car, seems easier and the car can hold the master better than a vise. I watch a lot of videos of people working on old cars that have been sitting around and they usually emphasize varying the stroke length while bleeding the master, so I tried to do this the best I can (short and long pedal strokes). It's supposed to make sure you get all the air out of the front and rear ports of the master.

 

No. It’s been beaten to death. Don’t even want to rehash that shit.

tl;dr - If you’re not confident with a complete fluid flush, drain and fill is totally safe.

 

Attention rust belt homies:

 

Would it be stupid or brilliant to get the same color truck? Fawk...

 

Fair enough

 

My truck 288k when purchased/previous maintenance unknown (I think it was used for plowing snow actually)/2 drain and fills/10k miles/no problems.
I did dump a whole bottle of Lucas in with the first (and maybe second) drain and fill.

 

Body parts interchange better...

 

Well there isn't a body panel on my current white barnacle that I would put on that truck.
And that's about the only advantage to having the same color
Nice thing is NO clearcoat to peal on it.
The dude "knows what he has" though

EDIT: I do have the white SnugTop topper though

 

Never say never... but I hear ya.

 

Did you use third-party crush washers? $2 or more for a damn washer seems a little nuts.

 

Brilliant. One will be a backup parts truck.

 

fuck that washer bullshit, I just put it back on.
If she drips, I'll address it then. Hasn't happened yet.