1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

That’s what I’m running with 2.25” of lift.

 

Me 3. Summit always ships them super quick.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spx-smx-1222270t

Do yourself a favor and buy this thin 14mm wrench, too. It's a snug SOB on the LCA.

$10 Capri Tools 14 mm x 15 mm Super-Thin Open End Wrench, Metric, 11850-1415

https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-Super-Thin-Wrench-Metric/dp/B0791XJ8WC?th=1

 

Have you considered ditching the sway bar instead? These goobers finally convinced me. I cannot tell a difference with my Icon suspension. #NoRagrets.

 

Also part of the swaybar-delete club. I've said it before, I'll say it again, the only time I really notice it is when I'm approaching a 270º interstate off-ramp at anything over 25-30mph, the Tundra definitely sways/leans like it wants to roll out of the turn. But literally never feel it other than that.

 

Have mercy! Why is Toyota leading the way with this? Years ago, our work building was getting a 4-story addition that would roughly double our space. Parking was dramatically reduced during construction and if you got to work "late" you had to hop a curb (with the aid of a 4x4 post laid flat in front of the curb) and park on the grass. One day I got to work after the last regular space had been taken and had to get up on the grass in my sedan. I was complaining about it to another employee who drove a Ford Explorer with a stock lift easily twice that of my sedan when they said, "Oh, I would never get my Explorer on the grass". Are you kidding me? I'm pretty sure that's the last time I didn't arrive early.

 

That is gorgeous, but I'd give it enough lift to get over speed bumps without scraping. Maybe keep it for the "night out" truck and another Gen1 for real work.

 

Whats wrong with these pictures?

Home at 5-6pm:


At work next to a 5g tower during the morning today:



That’s the last time I try out a new MVNOs like Ultramobile. At least Cricket and Xfinity are more consistent.

 

I just checked it with an OBD2 scanner, and it's not detecting anything. So it's a sensor in the rear diff? I've looked it up with the code, and it shows something near there, but I haven't checked it out tbh it's been way too hot, but it's finally cooling down, and I'm starting to want to fix it lol

 

Haha, the bushings are fine as far as I can tell, but the install job was shit. definitely need more tools than expected, and a nice torch helps a lot.

 

Nothing on the diff that seems to be a sensor, most likely the ABS sensors in the wheels.

 

https://www.tundras.com/attachments/p0500-diagnostics-pdf.470705/ I found this, and I read through it, but honestly, I don't understand.

 

Yup. Those are the sensors we're referring to.

 

Getting ready to start a job that's going to require removal of several nuts on old, semi-rusty exhaust. (Not the Tundra). Is an entry-level impact called for, or am I giving myself an excuse to buy one?

 

Im much better at not breaking studs with hand tools.

 

What is problem 23:04

Sequoia will not start, what is problem...

 

What @Sirfive said. Hand tools and a penatrent like Kroil for exhaust studs over an impact.

 

Good to know. I've been interested in them. I'm familiar with what the job entails. If all goes to plan, Casey is going to donate a set of spare lowers that Jon will TundraExpress to DFW on his way to Amarillo (he'll be there by morning). That way I can press the bushing at my leisure without the truck being down. Then after I swap the arms, I'll have a pair to donate to someone else if / when needed.

 

I would probably look into buying an induction heater with coils before an impact in that specific case. Though I feel like everyone should have an impact.

 

Definitely use hand tools over an impact. At least during the initial stage of first loosening the studs up far enough that they can easily be unthreaded with a wimpy 9.6 volt impact. At least that was my experience with the studs on my tundra’s exhaust collector flanges. My truck was 100% rust free (and so were the studs), but they still somehow became one with the flanges. Even with an oxy torch they all wouldn’t come out. Welding nuts onto them didn’t do the trick on all of them either. I ended up having to drill out two of the six studs. And this was all with the engine removed from the truck! Never in my life had i come across corrosion free fasteners so stubborn.

 

High torque impact or breaker bar w/cheater pipe for leverage. For wheels studs- breaker bar. For anything with limited access- impact

 

Not a tundra? Hit it with a plasma wrench. Not worth the extra time and effort anyway.

 

The ball joint press kit from AutoZone worked well. They have a secondary kit that adds more cups, you'll need that as well. Make sure you have a sawzall if you can't get the outer metal sleeve out with the press.

 

Ha! The AI got rid of too much fender flair and made the wheels a little too normal, but it's not bad overall. It's definitely a clean, sleek look. Thanks!

 

Everything is looking like we're still set for that plan. Me and Casey are going to hit HF next weekend.

Also if the Siberians are hard to come by, I've been running the Energy Suspension poly bushings, or maybe it's Coash Builder (I forgot) on the T3 uppers and lowers.

 

hmm I would definitely consider that. I do a lot of highway driving. It’s not sketchy without it?

 

I'd just get the extended links, since youre 2wd and don't do a lot of off-roading. No point in ditching the sway bar for extra flex.

 

Well, you guys are absolutely no help in helping me justify ownership of tools I don't need....yet

 

No I don't feel unsafe. What suspension are you running up front?

I didn't even consider that when finally getting rid of mine. My issue with the sway bar links is that they required regular inspection and tightening. I got tired of the random popping noises that went away after I got rid of them.