'13 CM TSS Build

Well this is my first build log. I bought it new in August 2013. Prior to the past week. All I have done to the truck was remove chrome steps, add toolbox, front receiver hitch, and weather techs.



Last Saturday I installed 6112's on the top setting, 5100's rear, and +3 shackles.

Here's my measurements

Before
Lf. 35.875
Rf. 36
Lr. 38.75
Rr 38.75

Immediately after
Lf. 38.75
Rf. 39
Rl 40.5
Rr 40.75







Monday I had 275/65r20 Cooper ST Maxx tires installed on some black TSS wheels I picked up off another member. Did my first alignment Tuesday and found out I need UCAs since my caster is way low. Tires are very close to rubbing both mud flaps but they haven't touched them yet.



Today I built and installed my front diff drop and carrier bearing drops

Here it is now. Very dirty due to our weather lately and it's hunting season so I'm on dirt roads a lot.

Thank you everyone for answering my questions. The knowledge on this forum is amazing.









I'll post after measurements soon.

 

I was in Houston last weekend and scored a set of RB10 running boards off Craigslist for a great price.





Still need some adjusting. I just bolted them up in the dark the other night.

 

My master mechanic pulled my mudflaps off a while back since after the UCA swap I was getting some rubbing. He also bent my skid plate for me.



Well I finally dipped all my emblems this afternoon. Came out pretty good for my first try I guess. My 7 year old had a blast pealing it off. That stuff is awesome. It was dark when I finished up I'll get better pics tomorrow.


Installed the Nox Lux blackout kit on my wife's 4Runner also. I would go that route over dipping. Took less than 10 minutes but it was 20 times the price. We will see which one lasts longer.

 

Dipped the whole billet grill that came on the truck. I had only done the T before and I thought it looked like a clown nose.
Also dipped the wife 4Runner wheels at the same time.

 

I picked up some used hatchie bottom seat covers off the Houston Craigslist. I had them ship them to me. Well they smelled horrible when I got them like they've been in a damp shed for a year. My wife washed them and we let them dry for a few days. Smelled great until they were closed up in the truck all day then they now smell like old shoes that you tried to wash but didn't quite get it all out. I ordered some wetsuit shampoo and de stinker so I pulled them out already. They fit great even though they were not for the front bench seats. I also don't have power seats so the hole on the side is weird but hey for $150 I can't complain. Unless I can't get the smell out.

 

Well I ended up not loving the camo seats. I got them cleaned up with wetsuit shampoo and deodorizer, but didn't love the camo next to all the grey interior. So I sold them and ordered some Clazzios.

I ended up getting the leather inserts and all dark grey, and I think it's a great color for the interior.

Install was not the easiest but not terrible. Took a few hours. The headrests are a pain since they are so tight. The big section of the rear seat back was by far the hardest. I removed the small back seat to make things easier back there.

I'm sure a lot of the wrinkles will get better after a little while. It's parked in the sun during the day at work and it's been in the 90's.

I think the seats look great, but I see a couple things I don't like.
The center console/middle seat cover looks great as a seat but crappy as a console I'll probably take it off since no one ever sits there.
And on the back seat around the arm rest is loose at the bottom and loose in the indent where the armrest goes into. I will probably try to get some Velcro back there to help tighten it up and look better.

 

Added a used set of oem tow mirrors I picked up off another member. I may have to try the vht niteshades paint on the markers though.

When I pulled my new vintage camper home a while back I knew I needed some hopefully the camper will be done this month as well.







On a side note the lights work on a tundra grade with power mirrors in case anyone was wondering. I knew they worked on the sr5.

 

I bought a HF 3 ton steel floor jack last week (on sale for $79.99) and it barely got my front tires off the ground made it by 1/4" or so. Today I fixed that problem. I measured the jack pad and designed a solid extension that slides over the jack pad and is held in place with the lip on the jack pad. I didn't like how the extensions I have seen pretty much just sit on the pad maybe engage the "teeth" on the pad. Any weird side load, I see it collapsing.

I did some cad work getting the design and sizes nailed down, then grabbed a scrap piece of aluminum at the shop and went to work. Fits the pad perfectly, won't fall off and actually takes some finesse to get it on and off being as there is only .010" clearance. I haven't lifted the truck with it yet but it will give me right at 3" more height.

 

Today I finished up a mod that should have been done years ago. I moved the trailer plug into the bumper.





I made a template of the hole in the factory bracket. Cut the plastic with a utility knife (worked ok but I would try something else next time), used my jig saw for the metal, that worked ok, it scratched the outside of the plastic a couple times. I would use a die grinder next time. I just don't have a big enough compressor anymore.

I also finished up my multi mount winch wiring. There is a 150amp circuit breaker under the hood that I use to kill the power unless I need it.

I drilled and tapped mounting holes on the side of my front receiver hitch.


For the rear plug I made an aluminum bracket that mounts to the factory trailer plug bracket mount. I need to powdercoat it black but it will be fine for now.








Now I need to make or buy a hitch extension to use with the winch for the front and make some supports for my toolbox so I can keep it in there without the box bending.

 

I added a set of 1A Auto smoked tow mirror turn signal lenses today.

 

Well today I installed some portable hand controls. I had ankle surgery a couple weeks ago on my right ankle. I will be in a cast or boot for 2-3 months. This will allow me to drive to work and get me where I need to go if my wife is busy. It's weird driving with them but I'll get used to it.

 

Well I got one of them fancy odyssey batteries a couple months ago from autoanything. Well they didn't include the height adapter for the battery so the factory battery hold down wouldn't work without some spacers below the nuts to hold down the bar. They assured me it would come with it and after it didn't, they didn't want to help me at all.

Well today I finally fixed the issue the right way. I machined an aluminum hold down on a mill turn machine in one step. It was pushing it for part stability but it worked great overall.

Oh and I traced out an old land cruiser emblem in autocad to get the font correct.











All good now.

 

Well I have made a few changes since my last update.

I ditched the weather tech mats for some used Huskys. They are much better since the passenger mat doesn’t move around.

I recently acquired an all aluminum 5th wheel toy hauler so I have been gearing up for it.

I had a B&W Turnover Ball installed.



The camper is setup with an Andersen ultimate 5th wheel adapter. So I just needed the gooseneck in the truck. It has the benefit of moving the camper about 10” back and allows me to almost turn 90 degrees and I even clear my toolbox.



With the camper hooked up I was sitting about 1” low in the back. And the rear end was too soft when going over bumps. I needed something to support the rear end. Airbags are out as an easy bolt on due to the gooseneck hitch. I decided to try the sumo springs. After talking to superspring the recommended the light version 1,000lb.

After installing them they had almost 1.5” to the frame and barely engaged when loaded and I was still sagging but it felt more stable towing. I dropped my shackles down to a +2 to lower the truck 1/2”. And it helped. But still had an inch of sag before it hit the spring.

Today I made some 1.125” thick spacers to put them right at the frame. I will try to do a test run this weekend with them to see the difference.







The phosphate tank was on the cool side and it came out pretty bad. I’ll end up powdercoating them sometime.

Installed.



I hope the unloaded ride won’t be too bad. Up till now I couldn’t tell they were there.

 

Well hooked up the 5er today in the 36 degree weather

Still squats 2.5”, so still rides an inch low in the back. I was hoping spacing them up to the frame would help. Not too happy with the sumos for this application. It rides great and handles much better, but still low in the back.

I’m going to look into airbags I guess.

 

First real camping trip with the 5er. Truck pulled great and felt super solid. I just hate the sag. Got around 9 mpg driving 65mph. It was a 2hr drive each way. Good stuff. Looking forward to more trips in the near future.

 

Well here is the last installment of getting my rear suspension fixed up for the 5er.

I installed some 2500lb hellwig helpers instead of the sumo springs. That was a horrible idea. They lifted the truck an inch which I didn’t want, rode horribly unloaded and only helped the sag 1/4” compared to stock.


Sumo





I removed them after 4 days and sent them back to Amazon.

This weekend I installed some firestone airbags, daystar cradles, and an airlift wireless one compressor.

The compressor was used and was given to me so the wiring was not exactly how I wanted it but it will work for now. It looks worse than it really is. The Y connector for the in bed trailer plug is right there as well. I actually used T-taps on the 12v + and ground off of that harness.

Huge pain with my gooseneck hitch. I had to remove parts of it to get parts in, move the fuel pump control, and fight little to no access for bolting parts back up. Took about 7 hrs over 2 days.



This bolt on both sides is what makes the bags not compatible with the hitch.















Also installed some powerstop truck and tow brakes a couple weeks ago. They are much better than stock.

 

Figure I’d add some pics of the hitch setup for the 5er. Not many people have heard of the Andersen hitch, but I wouldn’t want to go any other way.









I just moved it from the shed in the back of my property to by the house to load it up for a long weekend trip. That’s why it’s not fully hooked up.

Enjoy

 

Last weekend was the first time I’ve had to use my winch on the front of my truck. Normally I use it on my trailer or drag something from the rear.

Well I have to use a hitch extension and the winch sticks out way too far. There is no way to shorten the extension anymore so I decided to modify the front hitch instead.

The welder at work offered to do it for me when I asked his advice on cutting it apart to add a longer hitch tube.

Came out great. Dropped it off for powedercoat yesterday afternoon and just picked it up. Looks better than when it was new.



I’ll get it mounted up next week when I get back in town.

 

I got the hitch put on this afternoon. It’s much better than it was. I can actually leave the winch on the truck during hunting season now.





This was the winch before using the extension



And now after reworking the hitch.





Done for now.

 

Nice!

 

Way better Hitch came out great!

 

Howdy from DFW and sweet Tundra! Great write up too

 

I really like this final setup. (I use power stops too...)