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No more 130 or 150 amp alternators?

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by Philcam, Jan 26, 2019.

  1. Jan 26, 2019 at 9:09 PM
    #1
    Philcam

    Philcam [OP] New Member

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    I'm going to be replacing the alternator on my 2015 CM SR5 4x4. Looking for an OEM replacement but several dealers have told me only the 100 Amp is available, 27060-0S030.

    27060-0S020, 150 amp and 27060-0S010, 130 amp are discontinued??
     
  2. Jan 26, 2019 at 9:15 PM
    #2
    Jengel451

    Jengel451 Misanthropist

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    The Bitterroot, MT
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    Get it rebuilt. No reason to buy new anyway.
     
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  3. Jan 26, 2019 at 9:17 PM
    #3
    Ericsopa

    Ericsopa Old man and the sea

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  4. Jan 26, 2019 at 9:27 PM
    #4
    Tierhog

    Tierhog SIG-AHOLIC

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  5. Jan 26, 2019 at 9:39 PM
    #5
    1UPPER

    1UPPER Not A New Member

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    Flux capacitor!
    I love my Mechman 240 amp alternator! You can pick the color you want it to be as well. 86668520-666C-4F3D-8354-375D4F85DA70.jpg
     
  6. Jan 26, 2019 at 11:38 PM
    #6
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    Damn, some options from 320 amp.
     
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  7. Jan 27, 2019 at 5:03 AM
    #7
    trainracer

    trainracer New Member

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    denso 104210-5090 150 amp
    denso 104210-5080 130 amp
     
  8. Jan 27, 2019 at 5:45 AM
    #8
    1UPPER

    1UPPER Not A New Member

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    Flux capacitor!
    Just a heads up for anyone thinking of doing a larger alternator. You have to upgrade your main positive and ground leads to 1/0 cables. This was told to me by Mechmans technical support when I bought mine. 1E28D86A-EB38-468A-B89B-D6F902D455BE.jpg
     
  9. Jan 27, 2019 at 7:27 AM
    #9
    040Tundra

    040Tundra Teddy 2013-2019

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    A little of this and a little of that.
    Thanks for the heads up
     
    1UPPER[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Jan 27, 2019 at 8:54 AM
    #10
    Tierhog

    Tierhog SIG-AHOLIC

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    I was hoping this would come up.. Im curious at what point the upgrade becomes neutral or negative (puns intended).
    Was the VR and any supporting electronics/cables capable of delivery long term? Outside of the leads are their any other possible upgrades to the system?? When does 150 turn to 500etc.

    Just curious

    It looks like you have all kinds of additions and upgrades, but for the stock guy with no light bars, subs, etc... Maybe 150 is plenty?
     
    Black Wolf and 1UPPER[QUOTED] like this.
  11. Jan 27, 2019 at 9:20 AM
    #11
    1UPPER

    1UPPER Not A New Member

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    Flux capacitor!
    If your not running a large stereo with multiple amps, lots of light bars or other electrical stuff then 150 should be plenty. I plan on doing a full stereo soon and I didn’t want my amps to clip or have my headlights to dim.
     
  12. Jan 27, 2019 at 9:21 AM
    #12
    Tierhog

    Tierhog SIG-AHOLIC

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    Good ol Texas.
     
    Eric32444 likes this.
  13. Jan 27, 2019 at 9:24 AM
    #13
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    White 2015 Tundra DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7L, White 2003 Sequoia 2WD
    TRD Pro suspension, +2 Coachbuilder shackles, 2015 TRD Pro headlights, 20% ceramic tinted windows, clear ceramic tinted front windshield, aFe drop in pro s dry air filter, TRD airflow accelerator, TRD oil fill cap, TRD 18 psi radiator cap, BDX Bullydog tuner, Weathertech floor mats front and rear, rear seat fold down mod, DNA hard trifold tonneau cover, Linex with uv protection, TRD rear swaybar, TRD center caps, TRD Pro grille insert with color matching surround and bulge, TRD PRO headlights, aluminum oil filter canister, Real truck tailgate seal, Pop-n-lock tailgate lock actuator, rear diff breather relocate, RCI front skid plate. 275/70 R18 BFG KO2s
    This reminds me of the old days when my stereo system would hit, my headlights would dim LMFAO. As a kid I would laugh and say fuck yeah!! That’s what I’m talking about! Bumping!

    Instead of upgrading my alternator I installed a big capacitor. It seemed to help.
     
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  14. Jan 27, 2019 at 9:30 AM
    #14
    Donkeypunch

    Donkeypunch New Member

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    This is overkill IMO for a lot of applications.

    Specifically for the ALT to (+) battery and (-) of battey to chassis since the length of the wires are short.

    The factory 4 gauge wires to the battery from the ALT and chassis are fine for 250-300amps at 12.7v to 13.8V because the wires length are less than 4ft. This length and 4 gauge would have the same resistance as a 0 gauge and would not see any voltage drop or added heat.

    To me it’s just time & money wasted for most typical applications to upgrade to 0 gauge.

    However, adding a power distribution block is very convenient.
     
  15. Jan 27, 2019 at 10:39 AM
    #15
    14burrito

    14burrito IG @14burrito

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    200amp @idle

    Screenshot_20190127-113907_Facebook.jpg
     
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  16. Jan 27, 2019 at 10:44 AM
    #16
    Donkeypunch

    Donkeypunch New Member

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    Pulley change?
     
  17. Jan 27, 2019 at 11:35 AM
    #17
    Philcam

    Philcam [OP] New Member

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    Thank you guys for the replies.

    For y’all with the MechMan, did the higher AMPs confuse your ECU? I’ve heard of some people having issues with the computer being confused with the higher output.

    Also, is Denso OEM?

    I’m definately not looking for an O’Reilly or AutoZone reman. I’ve heard too many horror stories about bad VRs. It’s too much work to install o e to find out the VR is bad.


    Oh, and what’s up with Miami alternators? I’ve heard several recommend them, are they just a reputable reman shop?
     
  18. Jan 27, 2019 at 12:38 PM
    #18
    1UPPER

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    Flux capacitor!
    Upgrading the alternator is overkill for probably 98% of vehicle on the road. I don’t know about you, but I’m not a manufacturer or supplier off alternators. But when Mechman told me you need to change the OEM Positive and negative leads, that’s what I did. Plus I think we can all agree I’m not running a “typical application” for electrical needs.
     
  19. Jan 27, 2019 at 12:43 PM
    #19
    Sas

    Sas Humor is everywhere

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    Lost track after #1.
    You upgraded your truck? Looks stock to me!
     
  20. Jan 27, 2019 at 1:42 PM
    #20
    tnchrisc

    tnchrisc New Member

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    So...how common is it that an alternator needs to be replaced on a Tundra that is only 3-4 years old? of course, not including alts that need upgrading due to mods.
     
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  21. Jan 27, 2019 at 2:37 PM
    #21
    1UPPER

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    Flux capacitor!
    Yup my truck is all stock. Haha
     
  22. Jan 27, 2019 at 2:53 PM
    #22
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Bigfoot Hunter, Sasquatch too, but not Yeti

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    ....plus....I've seen the high output alternators used with some folks doing welding situations out on the trail dealing with breakdowns. Gets you a lot of props and free beer...just sayin...
     
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  23. Jan 27, 2019 at 7:03 PM
    #23
    Donkeypunch

    Donkeypunch New Member

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    It’s your time and $. :)


    I don’t know about you but I have a BSEE and an electrical engineer.

    It’s simple Ohm’s Law. The reason for a larger gauge is to prevent voltage drop and heat across the length of the wire carrying the current.

    As I stated before, 4 ft of 4 gauge wire is plenty to carry 300amp @ 13.8v. Do the math and that’s 4,140 WATTS!

    That’s more than enough to power the a few 400WATT huge LED off road light bars, a few 50WATT Foglamps and spot lights and a 1000watts stereo along with keeping the rest of the truck’s electrical system happy.

    I see your avatar and nice truck but even if you install so many color LEDS and other lights to signal alien spaceships at night (not typical application), that factory 4 gauge wire that’s less than 4ft from the alternator to the battery and chassis ground wire is plenty enough.

    The wire gauge is very specific to the individual circuit. The ALT to the battery and battery to chassis GND are their own separate circuits in regards to the length and gauge of the wire.

    Now, if you are relocating the battery to the back of the truck, then you will need the 0 gauge as that’s 10ft and will have higher resistance and voltage drop across that 10ft compared to the 4ft 4 gauge.

    Each accessory should have the right gauge wire to handle the current it’s going to deliver to that item and each should be looked at as a separate circuit.

    But it’s your time and money and the manufacturer is just making recommendations or maybe an associated sale. Hell, people buy Fuel Injector cleaner at Auto-zone when the clerk does the upsell, but it makes them feel happy.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2019
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  24. Jan 27, 2019 at 7:10 PM
    #24
    NcTundra4x4

    NcTundra4x4 New Member

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    Just replaced mine 2 weeks ago with 150 amp. Bearing went out on mine and sounded terrible at 70k miles. Took me 6 hrs to replace on jack stands and a creeper. Pray the reman. I got is good for a while .Don't want to have to do that again.
     
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  25. Jan 28, 2019 at 3:49 AM
    #25
    Philcam

    Philcam [OP] New Member

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    I think that is my issue. The bearing. It’s testing good, but I have a noise I’m trying to isolate right now. It first sounded like the heat shields on the catalytic converters were loose. Hard to discribe the sound.
     
  26. Jan 28, 2019 at 4:27 AM
    #26
    NcTundra4x4

    NcTundra4x4 New Member

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    Yes that's what I originally thought mine was. I crawled underneath it with a mechanic stethoscope I figured out that's it was the alternator. It was making a sound like a heat shield vibration, but was a rythmatic rotational sound. Like you say, hard to describe.
     
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  27. Jan 28, 2019 at 4:38 AM
    #27
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    You not typical?

    Nooooooooo

    A06D40C6-6405-495D-9AA4-43A6E94D5003.jpg
     
  28. Jan 28, 2019 at 7:03 AM
    #28
    Alexstundra

    Alexstundra Not a new member

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    I tell people that aren’t into trucks that mine came like that and walk away
     
  29. Jan 28, 2019 at 7:09 AM
    #29
    Philcam

    Philcam [OP] New Member

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    With the belt off, could you turn the pulley on the alternator and tell the bearing was bad?
     
  30. Jan 28, 2019 at 9:06 AM
    #30
    NcTundra4x4

    NcTundra4x4 New Member

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    You probably could do that, but after I got the old one off I spun the pulley and it was rough spinning compared to the new one that spun smooth as glass. Really don't know why they bury the alternator on the bottom of these motors... Not a fun repair.
     

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