What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

This wasnt today, it was yesterday, and please ignore my dirty dirty dash, I WAS SO EXCITED. Just got done with the break in period aint nothin but a warm up lap. Runs just like new, throttle response and takeoff is amazing for having 200k.

 

After waiting 13 days I finally got my new one piece driveshaft out of the shop. It has a constant velocity joint up front. I forgot to weigh the original two-piece driveshaft. But this thing feels like it's at least 10 lbs lighter. The truck does seem to have little more get up and go. I don't think it necessarily give me any more power but the RPM do seem to climb faster due to less rotational mass. I haven't had a chance to take it off road and get it all flexed out yet. But I'm betting everything will be fine. The main reason for getting the one piece was I had a small chatter in the rear end when I would take off from a stop. This was due to my 4 inch lift in the rear. I had to steep of an angle from the carrier bearing down to the dif. So far I'm very happy with it.

 

How did you decide what setting to go with? I have those too and I had no idea what to set em to. I don't recall what I ended up setting em to either.

 

Me and a friend (mostly him) just got the high angle boots installed. Hopefully these will put an end to going thru boots due to the small lift up front

 

Nice!!! How’d install go?

Did you machine the inner joint? (Inner Joint Mod)

 

Wait, what? There's an Inner Joint Mod??? Geeeshhhh I need to read more...

The install was messy, of course, but it went pretty well. The instructions from Off Road Solutions for the boots were good just took a minute to understand what they wanted. With me {gently} driving it around 2,500 miles a year I hope to not have to deal with it again.

 

Oh yeah those boots should do the trick for you!!

Yes, there is an inner joint mod. I’ll have to find a good write up for you. But essentially you trim about 2cm of the inner joint (right where the high angle boot is clipped on). This allows the high angle boot to be moved up on the joint which allows for a better achieved angle and stretches the boot out a tad more.

But if you don’t drive a ton or Offroad you shouldn’t need to do it.

 

I just set them to the neutral position the instructions provided. When I had it aligned the shop set the factory cams to center, adjusted the arms to get the numbers close, and then fine tuned it with the factory cams.

It sounds easy but the tech had never seen adjustable arms and it took about 20 minutes of explaining for him to get it.

 

Warshed the truck.

Took the front cowl off to do the ‘prevent front leak on passenger side’ repair. FAKE NEWS! The cowl clips are not the leak source. They are just floating clips. The holes they are attached are part of a greater gutter system that drains into each quarter panel behind the front wheels. I can not believe this ‘repair’ has perpetrated itself through the years.

Well at least I could access the cowl screens to clean them and tighten the wiper arm brackets 10mm nuts.

Flat blacked the shineys in front of the radiator behind the new grille. Looks very nice now. Clean.


Side view of dirt trapped in cowl screen.

 

After studying the pics a little more I can see where the clips may leak/drip on top of the blower housing on passenger side penetration. Hard to see inside that channel gutter towards the blower, but can envision if the angle of the dangle lined up just right a drip may manifest itself via the blower.

Conclusion: Caulk just the clips over the blower.

 

Nice slider top. What brand/model is it, if I may ask?

 

Took off the step bars
Bought a hood from certi fit and got it painted for 285
Plasti dipped the roof
Next up is new tires

 

What size tires you looking at?

 

This is my daily driver so I don't want anything heavier and I'm not going to get a lift. So maybe just one size up. Right now I'm running 265/70/16

 

Picked up a couple swivel socket adapters and a regular 19mm socket. About to go outside in the dark and crawl under to tighten up that center steering rack bolt.

Going to snug up the other stuff and might even slap my coilovers in. Gonna wait for daylight to put my new battery in.

 

Drove it to work and thought it looked good, so I took a pic.

 

One side on

Truck is still on stands, that isn't ride height.

 

OMG - is that what my paint could look like?
hurry spring, hurry!

 

Are you asking about the rock sliders or the cap?

Sliders are from Victory 4x4, the cap is a Snugtop Super Sport.

 

How much lift do y'all have to need those?

 

2 1/2" up front busted my boots and during that time zero off-roading. Like most folks I had to do the boot clamp mod as my grease was spraying out. Afterward (not sure exactly when; less than 2k miles for sure) the boots split next to the new clamps. I didn't do the diff mod so that could have helped a little but think it would of only bought me a little more time, can't say for sure.

 

Very nice!

Can we talk about the headlight assemblies? Where did you get them and was the install cut and dry?

 

Thanks. I bought them off

$51 Spyder Toyota Tundra Double CAB

Amazon and install is very simple. They’ve gone up quite a bit since I purchased but you should be able to find cheaper black housings.

Then I painted the reflector housings black when I did the retrofit.

 

New battery install today. Cleaned all the terminals also.
AutoZone Duralast Gold 5 year warranty.

 

I took advantage of this: https://www.tundras.com/threads/victory4x4-tundra-slider-introductory-pricing.38242/

 

Those terminal wire jackets are clean looking.

 

Woo woo!!

 

No love for the 00-03’ Tundras.

 

Got a truck tent for free for my king of hammers trip.
Set it up to see how it fits.