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Brake time

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by kameleon, Dec 26, 2018.

  1. Dec 26, 2018 at 8:49 PM
    #1
    kameleon

    kameleon [OP] New Member

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    Jackson, MS
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    2015 Crewmax Limited 5.7 MGM
    Just turned 100k on a recent trip Been noticing the brakes are pulsing like warped rotors. Since it is part of the 100k maintenance I'm looking at replacing all 4 corners. Any recommendations? Daily driver with occasional tow duty of my 20ft enclosed car hauler. Was looking at the power stop front and rear kit with slotted and drilled rotors. I also have a stainless braided brake line kit I could install while I do this but haven't seen any reviews of anyone doing similar yet. Thoughts?
     
    eccracer104 likes this.
  2. Dec 26, 2018 at 10:00 PM
    #2
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    Calibrated Power 5 Tune pack, Allison 1000 tune, PPE deep trans pan, Cold/Hot CAC pipes, Banks CAI, PCV reroute, resonator delete, S&B 62 gal fuel tank, B&W GN hitch
    I would look at autoanything.com and then hit up our site rep for the discount. They have great deals on excellent braking packages.
     
    eccracer104, Black Wolf and aperezsh like this.
  3. Dec 27, 2018 at 5:36 AM
    #3
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Bigfoot Hunter, Sasquatch too, but not Yeti

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    This^^^^ @eccracer104 !
     
  4. Dec 27, 2018 at 1:19 PM
    #4
    kameleon

    kameleon [OP] New Member

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    eccracer104 likes this.
  5. Dec 27, 2018 at 1:23 PM
    #5
    eccracer104

    eccracer104 Dirty Paws Off-Road

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    Mike
    San Diego, CA
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    Can do! I'll shoot you a PM to set it up.

    A for the lines, there's really no down side to installing stainless braided lines (especially if you already have them). They don't expand under heat like the rubber lines will which keeps more consistent pedal feel.

    edit: PM Sent :thumbsup:
     
    ColoradoTJ and Prostar 190 like this.
  6. Dec 27, 2018 at 1:30 PM
    #6
    okstate

    okstate New Member

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    @eccracer104 could you send me a quote for brakes for my 2016 TRD Pro?

    Thanks!

    :threadjacked:
     
    eccracer104 likes this.
  7. Dec 27, 2018 at 1:44 PM
    #7
    eccracer104

    eccracer104 Dirty Paws Off-Road

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    No way man, get your own thread!















    :p Yep, I'll shoot you a PM :fistbump:
     
    TXMiamiFan and okstate[QUOTED] like this.
  8. Dec 30, 2018 at 12:29 AM
    #8
    Jermalex

    Jermalex New Member

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    Central Idaho
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    2011 Tundra 5.7L DC LTD
    Billstien 6112/5160 shocks, EBC Rotors and Pads, lots of little tweeks
    My brakes had been pulsing horribly (warped rotor?) and generally been performing poorly so I decided to do a full rebuild/replace job. The previous owner had put a PowerStop Drilled and slotted kit on the truck at sometime but at 72K, the brakes were done. I've no idea who did the previous work, and after seeing the condition of the rest of the system and the corrosion on the hubs and calipers, I'm not sure that they did anything but slap on new rotors and pads. The upper slider bolts on both rear calipers were completely seized, making the rear brakes dangerously inadequate. And based on pad wear, the Front calipers were braking pretty unevenly. Overall the system was in pretty bad shape; I'm really glad and probably lucky that I did the job when I did.

    I can't say for sure that the powerstop rotors and pads were to blame for the bad shape of the system, but just to be sure I went ahead and made an upgrade to EBC. It was a difficult decision between Powerstop, Centric, SP performance, and EBC. Ultimately, EBC came out on top based primarily on being made in England, the amount and accuracy of information on their website, and the appearance that they're selling people what works right, not just what looks cool. Even though their kits are definitely higher priced than many of their competitors, I'm pretty impressed with the look and feel of the machining/manufacturing, their fit and finish, and even the attention to detail in their literature. I ended up with the GD-series slotted and dimpled rotors (not drilled!), and Yellow stuff pads.

    Other than several speed bumps due to needing to get the whole system up to snuff, the Install of the EBC components went pretty flawlessly. I did end up having to get rebuilt calipers for the rear, but I was able to overhaul, clean and paint the fronts on my own for around $20 (minus beer!). After thoroughly cleaning the hub faces, I was able to get near-perfect tolerances for rotor run out, both front wheels were in the 0.001" range and the rear's were well within their spec. The new pads mounted up well; I used new toyota pins and mounting hardware with fresh high temp caliper grease to round it all out. Beware of the dreaded parking brake backing plate rub on the rear brakes with non-OE rotors. I had to use a flat head punch to bang it out of the way and keep it from rubbing on the inside lip of the rotor-hat.

    After the first drive on the new brakes; rubbing off the black thermic coating from the rotors and the red break-in coating on the pads, I'm already very impressed with the feel, stopping power, and modulation of the new set-up. Apparently, they're going to only get better in the next 1000-5000 miles. I definitely feel like I got what I paid for.

    Oh yeah, I did the SS extended length cables on front and rear from Toytech too. They're much higher quality than the stock rubber, and undoubtedly going to increase brake responsiveness. Easy install as well, line wrenches sure came in handy. So did my set of cheap 5-sided crow's foot wrenches for torquing (best online searching said 11-15 ft•lbs for flare fittings). Watch out for brake fluid leaking on paint and rubber boots!

    You're gonna be stoked on your new brakes no matter what you choose.
     
  9. Dec 31, 2018 at 9:25 AM
    #9
    Dr_Al

    Dr_Al New Member

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    The only downside I can see to swapping out to SS braided lines is you have to bleed they system. I haven't done my 2nd gen yet but on my 1st gen Tundra the pins that hold the pads in place would always seize into the caliper. The only thing I found that would stop it is anti-seize compound. Just be cautioned that the stuff seams to get on everything and it's very hard to get off almost everything.
     

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