0 offset with 3 in lift

Agreed! That being said, I just pulled the crap-tastic plastic from the front of the wheel well since that's where it was rubbing (mind you, no lift yet). I was then able to pull the bumper ends forward to their limit and re tighten the screws holding them in. Voila! No more rubby in the front.

FYI a CMC is needed when the wheels are at full turn.

 

What was the process you had to do with the fender liner?

 

What was the process you did to clear the liner?

 

What was the process for clearing the liners?

 

Easy dustydirt...

You could use a 10mm socket and remove the screws...they pop right off

 

You just took them off all together or chopped them then put them back on?

 

I just took mine off, but then again, I'm going a 6 in lift next week so they'll likely go back on

 

I marked mine before I took them off so I knew what had to be chopped.

Then I removed them and cut them out using a Fein tool. It took all of 15 minutes per side. Pretty easy

 

I just took two screws off from the bottom, pushed the liner forward as far as I can, drilled two new holes, and put the screws back on. I have 2010 though. From what I understand, 2014+ models are more difficult to work on.

 

Soooo I guess 17x8.5 0 offset on a 35x12.5 will fit on a 3 inch lift but with alot of cutting...??? Anyone quickly

 

35x12.5 should clear with BMC and UCAs that give enough extra caster with +0

 

Wouldn’t wheel spacers fix the problem?

 

At that size spacers will make it worse

 

I'm keeping stock ucas

 

To pricey. I'm gunna have them do 3* or atleast try

 

It's gonna be close if it works at all

 

I talked to 2 guys at toytec and they didnt seem phased at all. They were like yeah that will work but your gunna do the obvious triming. I even asked about the ucas and he said you'll be fine. So the only thing I guess I'll have a problem with is the alignment

 

Did you tell them you were running +0 with 35x12.5?

 

You think a +18 would make that bette? Ucas are way to pricey

 

Yes. Apparently the "boss" had the same setup but then got ucas cuz alignment

 

They'd know best, good luck! Here's another guy that did +0 with 35x12.5

https://www.tundras.com/threads/red-9k-build-thread.17533/

 

That's a 3rd gen. but still works. I found a guy on Instagram with the setup with stock ucas. He told me to not and sent me pics. I was suprised I wish he joined this thread

 

The guy has a 2011 doing it with a mean cab mount chop

 

Ignore me. Apparently I had it ass-backwards

 

What happened

 

Nothing I was thinking a +18 would stick out further then a 0 or +1 (makes sense no?) but after looking it up, I was apparently wrong.

 

Fitment after work

 

BMC. And little mud flap out

 

Dealers are independent companies and work done by them that is not in accordance with manufacturer's guidance is just the same as that work being done at any other third party place. Manufacturer's are not allowed to require us to have our vehicles serviced at a dealership. I'm not saying a lift doesn't void a warranty or at least cause warranty challenges, but it should not matter where you have it done. My local dealer lifts brand new trucks on the show room floor. We also have a third party shop here (Rad Customs) that sells brand new Chevy and Ford trucks that are highly modified. They are not affiliated with the manufacturer.

 

So 33x12.5 on 18x9 +0 will work without BMC? What about mid flap removal and fender trimming? TIA.