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2nd gen Tundra: no or poor heat or AC - heater servo timing and blend door failure

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by blackoutt, Nov 8, 2018.

  1. Nov 8, 2018 at 10:09 AM
    #1
    blackoutt

    blackoutt [OP] YEAH BUDDY!

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    2007 Tundra DC SR5
    Symptoms:
    1) no heat on passenger side, no blend door moving sound when I turn the passenger side dial anywhere from sync, to cold, to hot.
    2) delayed heater servo response for all other servos for almost a minute after key on time, also lots of groany/squeaky noises when they do finally move.
    3) weak heat on driver side

    Research of the interwebs:
    Lots of digging on these issues on some other tundra forums revealed lots of $2000+ dealer repairs, calls with Toyota and warranty work with no real meat to the posts BUT finally some people are getting their hands dirty putting out little bits of information on our HVAC black box.

    The HVAC system is comprised of a "heater housing" under the dash in front of the center console. This box contains heater core, 4-5 servo motors for various blend doors depending on trim level, and AC evaporator with a wing leading over to the blower motor and AC amplifier above the passenger footwell. Common problems are servo failures, which can be addressed in situ with minimal dash covers removed, blend door failures which require replacement of the heater housing box, and heater core plugging or leaks which also requires removal of the heater housing. The problem with removing the heater housing is it is very well buried in there and requires removal of the entire dash and dash support! Reference glewis25's thread and video here https://www.tundras.com/threads/changing-the-heater-core-on-my-2007-tundra.20309/ On top of that the problem with replacing the heater housing is Toyota only sells it as complete assembly with servos and heater core for ~$800+!!!! This leaves the only real option to be a used part from a wrecker or junkyard, complete assembly with blower motor and re-circulation housing shown below.

    3JOphgKpHY_HzKvL2bBcGve4_jM1ZETKuranN3wS_1b12dd25442446bd3476e47fb07d896b2cc90874.jpg

    Findings:
    1) Passenger side heat. Digging into my own system I found that the passenger heat was not working because the blend door gear driven by the passenger side servo (singular on my SR5 truck without auto climate control) was broken off as the shaft. This servo can be accessed without removing very many plastic panels, and one screw to remove passenger side footwell ductwork, 10 minutes to get to and remove. Much to my surprise the shaft is a soft plastic, why put the weakest link there? To avoid damaging a $120 servo motor held on by 3 screws? Great I'll just pull the entire dash to replace this $800 box instead. After trying unsuccessfully to drill and repin the two shaft parts together I realized that even with a sheet rock screw drilled deep into the blend door shaft, I couldn't turn the thing by hand, it must be seized up pretty well. After admitting defeat I started looking for partouts and junkyards so that I could go pull a dash and get a heater box for less than $800, I eventually found multiple ebay sellers letting them go "Bare" (no heater core or servos) for under $300 and opted to go this route on a 6 year newer with 1/3 miles heater housing than my broken one. I'll share some pics of the process here and hopefully it will be a "cheap fix".

    boik0CY8_xQnldQE7Zpw664F4XwZxEUnmW0ra2tZ_1f6491bb3d55fe7f8b661ee70a5c6ddfaced3204.jpg

    Js0El7wtyFegFBEWmTOVGyNuKtFqQsswPQhH1LnW_f7b1f4be30701bd4560ed9f072cea4196d70800b.jpg

    2) Delayed servo actuation. This one actually looks pretty simple. The servos for whatever reason get out of time, off a tooth, wire or debris stuck in exposed gears, or just unlubricated over time causing the terrible groaning sounds and confused servo motors. There are some very painfully long videos from "black moses" on youtube explaining the issue but also not really showing you how to fix it. The short of it is access the servo subassembly on the drivers side footwell with minimal dash trim removed - drill a hole through the dash support to access the last screw to remove the servo sub assembly, clean and relube with white lithium grease, retime with heater knobs all turned fully to left per the instructions attached, and you're good to go! I haven't bothered to do this yet since I'll be transferring my servos over to the new heater housing and will need to be retimed anyway but from others accounts it sounds like it's not easy to hold everything in place and will take multiple stabs to get correct. Wish me luck!

    AC alignment diagram.jpg

    3) poor heat temp and volume on drivers side. I'm hoping that flushing the heater core while apart, fixing passenger blend door stuck on cold, and retiming drivers side servos will fix this issue, if not I may have my heater core plumbed backwards from a previous owners repair? or really clogged up and have to replace.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2018
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    #1
    baraynavab and focal like this.
  2. Nov 9, 2018 at 11:17 PM
    #2
    NikMd

    NikMd New Member

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    I don't have heat on the driver's side and almost no heat on passenger's
    I'm assuming I will have to pull the dash out as well.
    Have you proceed to fixing yours yet?
     
  3. Nov 14, 2018 at 11:22 AM
    #3
    blackoutt

    blackoutt [OP] YEAH BUDDY!

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    It's possible that you have a bad servo or a clogged heater core, both of which could possibly be addressed without pulling the dash. Servos are easy to check from either footwell with minimal panels and ducting removed. Clogged heater core would be a hit or miss heater core flush that I would do if you've confirmed servos and blend doors are good but still no heat. Worst case the heater core is so clogged that it requires replacement.

    I haven't started in on the repair yet since the donor heater box just showed up yesterday. It was sold as "bare with no heat exhangers or motors" but showed up with AC evaporator/expansion valve, heater core, all servos and even the recirculation damper! Only have to swap my blower motor and AC amplifier over. This changed my repair plan thought from instead of trying to pry the boxes apart to fix my existing box and not breaking AC and coolant circuits open, I'm just going to swap everything to the newer lower mileage parts and have some spare servos to rob or sell if needed. I found someone local to recover my r134 last night so teardown starts tonight.

    aBycSvG2vW31TbhO8ZElTcZN01bednvmEMLdmF-D_352703f403a4d74cb324b4046ecd2e2980e8bbee.jpg
     
  4. Nov 15, 2018 at 11:22 AM
    #4
    blackoutt

    blackoutt [OP] YEAH BUDDY!

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    So I started tearing into it last night. Dash removal does not require complete steering wheel and steering column removal, just the column trim, two nuts, and one bolt to drop it down and sit on the floor, watch the wires being pulled taught, unclip as necessary. I also left the seats installed (nice place to sit while tinkering) and did not fully remove the dash support from the truck, just unbolted it and pulled it towards the rear of the truck to get the HVAC box out. There is a hidden bolt on the drivers side of the dash support that you must access from outside the truck under the wiper cowl. Also you DO NOT have to remove the doors from the truck like I've read in other threads. There are two T40 torx on the passenger side that go into standoff/spacer/plug things, pretty neat idea. there are 3x 12mm head bolts on the drivers side, the rear two are short and can be fully removed, the third long front most bolt can just be loosened and pull out as far as it can go which is enough to be fully unthreaded, it does not need to be removed from it's pass though hole. In total it took me about 2.5 hours to remove the old box. The donor box I got had a cracked blower motor housing so I had to remove a million screws and clips to combine the two to make one perfect box. Install in total looks to be around 2.5-3 hours as well but I'll finish it up tonight and let you know.


    Dash cover removed
    OXVTTb08VA541OxhC4QQ203R3YFSC7AcFo8tWP2Q_4cb30e8428a17b4f33db46ab636d2325f7cf892e.jpg

    Dash support pulled back and heater box removed
    y_BLQYPetWfVYgZojRnNYsQqqSZL2KawzvYQwAD2_33b45d6549a08d8fd2259f65f6e2540cf503604c.jpg
    mq74SGJdrfk6AW5XBF9lhfHUeksYHIOcGHuLMPrW_8f13e6aaae9be3ab371eca35ee2c1bafadceffb7.jpg

    Old box top, looks like this dash has been apart before based on what clips are marred or broken, now I see it's gotten a recent AC evaporator, wonder if they broke the blend door when reassembling? Probably not, I also found about a cup of dogfood inside the old box.
    A-fzHbo1m-X_Pt73GEQGoMdFzqChlDdqP6VgHeEx_1cd5c60b847d922676850d26d1ddea7e76f1cf57.jpg
     
    focal likes this.
  5. Nov 16, 2018 at 5:47 AM
    #5
    blackoutt

    blackoutt [OP] YEAH BUDDY!

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    And it's all back together and working great! Some of the mounting tabs on the heater housing donor I bought were broken off so I had to combine the two boxes and got some of my money back from the fleabay seller. All in all I'm in this project around $200 and 9 labor hours to get my heat working. I also corrected a bunch of mis-routed wires, sinking dash corners, a couple missing bolts, and proper wiring for my info/reset buttons while I was in there. All that's left now is to put the proper HNBR o-rings on the AC connections, put a new desiccant pouch in the condenser, and get it leak tested/recharged!

    I'm also offering up some of the leftover parts to help recoup the rest of the cost and help out those in need!
    immobilizer unit, pops on the back of the evaporator core housing, not sure if it would require reprogramming I kept my original - offer
    driver side servo plate with servos assembly - offer
    passenger side servo - offer
    re-circulation servo - offer
    servo wiring harness - offer
    AC evaporator in good working condition - offer
    Evaporator thermistor - offer
    AC expansion valve - offer
    Passenger side air duct - offer
    Heater core - offer
    Heater core firewall grommet - free you ship
    Heater core housing (front half of the left part of the box, contains the broken shaft, for parts or maybe fix?) - free you ship
    Evaporator core housing (back half of the left part of the box, runs over to blower motor too, broken tabs) - free you ship
    Re-circulator housing (on top of blower motor, good door but broken mounting tabs) - free you ship
     
    focal likes this.
  6. Dec 28, 2018 at 5:08 PM
    #6
    ronsgto

    ronsgto New Member

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    Thanks much a lot of great information. I am replacing the servo assembly and the real issue I am having is getting the gears to sync. Cannot find anything on where you should position the gears so you can attach the servo assembly. If you have any info on that I would really appreciate it.
     
  7. Apr 7, 2019 at 10:25 PM
    #7
    coocoorouge

    coocoorouge 400,000 miles and counting

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    Hi Ron. I'm having the same problem trying to find how to move the arms of the blend door and other levers to get the servo assembly to synchronize properly for installation. Did you ever get the procedure from anyone?
     
  8. Apr 9, 2019 at 4:36 PM
    #8
    LiquidHeat

    LiquidHeat New Member

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    Tagging for my own dash ripout...Something is wrong with my blend door. Even with the fan on high, I get very little volume out of my vents.
     
  9. Apr 10, 2019 at 7:35 AM
    #9
    blackoutt

    blackoutt [OP] YEAH BUDDY!

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    Fig. 206 above shows the timing of the servos

    Good luck! It really looks worse than it is. It was kind of fun...
     
  10. Apr 25, 2019 at 7:26 PM
    #10
    coocoorouge

    coocoorouge 400,000 miles and counting

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    A mechanic friend of mine who I trust completely thought he had my servo assembly synchronized but ended up breaking one of the levers. Probably wasn't in the right channel for that one arm. Tried super gluing the arm, but when the self test ran to find the limits the computer had to relearn for the new servo assembly the arm broke again. I need a new arm and if anyone can help me locate one, I would be most appreciative. I don't suppose it would be different for 2007, 2008, and even possibly 2009 automatic HVAC dual operating systems, but I really don't know. If I cant find one in the next day or so, it looks like I'll have to buy a new box. It seems nobody wrecks their Tundra as I cant find any salvage yards with any. Will look for photos and add to post later.
     
  11. Nov 19, 2019 at 3:02 PM
    #11
    Civiceg94

    Civiceg94 New Member

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    Horn baffle delete Fox 2.5 DSC Setup DAP TUNED RW WHEELS 285/75/17 AT3 LTX
    Bringing this thread back. Because i have the same issue. But my vents position were lost. It works fine after 1 minute after i start the truck. Does figure 206 fix that issue?
     
  12. Nov 19, 2019 at 5:47 PM
    #12
    blackoutt

    blackoutt [OP] YEAH BUDDY!

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    It might only work if the reason they became untimed does not occur again. Mine became untimed/broken due to a mouse carrying a bunch of dog food into the damper box.
     
    Civiceg94[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Nov 19, 2019 at 5:53 PM
    #13
    Civiceg94

    Civiceg94 New Member

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    Thanks. Yeah it became untimed because i have a dap tune and my mpg is really crappy and i sent them a email regarding it. So they told me to disconnect the battery until next day and thats when i realized my hvac acting wrong and i even pulled the code from it also. Ill try it one day. Just the pictures is a little confusing for me lol. And its getting cold here
     
  14. Dec 30, 2019 at 9:53 AM
    #14
    shooter87

    shooter87 New Member

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    anyone know if the heter housings are the same 2007 and up or if they changed them at a certain year? specifically if one from a 2016 would work in a 2007?
     
  15. Jan 29, 2020 at 4:06 PM
    #15
    SouthWestGA

    SouthWestGA New Member

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    My wife’s 2008 Sequoia is having HVAC issues

    On Recirc,the fan is very low speed when on heat. When I turn the dial to cold,it blows full force!

    If the temp is on heat,and I turn off the recirc and go to fresh air,the blower force coming out of the vents is increased

    Any thoughts??
     
  16. Nov 4, 2020 at 7:29 PM
    #16
    deezer

    deezer New Member

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    Check out - the info is attached to that post.
     
  17. Nov 15, 2020 at 7:49 PM
    #17
    Dg191

    Dg191 New Member

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    Wow, I was intimidated look at those pic’s, you guys are awesome
     
  18. Jul 19, 2021 at 9:13 AM
    #18
    Sundog

    Sundog Zoom Zoom

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    Great pics. I had the exact same issue last summer on a 2014. My blend door shaft broke....
    upload_2021-7-19_11-5-3.jpg

    So I paid for and had the entire system to be replaced as we were 3 days before leaving on a trip. https://www.tundras.com/threads/upd...seriously-pic-hvac-core-being-replaced.70864/
    upload_2021-7-19_11-6-25.jpg

    Here we are, just under 12 months later and there is water in the passenger floor. no rain, only happens with the AC going. Had the evaporator drain blown out with air and they said it was fine. Just dropped it back off at the dealer this morning and on the lift we could see water coming out of the evaporator drain AND into passenger side floor.

    SO...here we go again. The are tearing into it again today and we are supposed to leave for MT/ID in 3 days.
     
  19. Jul 20, 2021 at 1:06 PM
    #19
    Cruiserpilot

    Cruiserpilot New Member

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    Feel for you. Can’t believe it’s been 4 months since I was on the forum. Been wicked busy with work. My heater has this same issue whole unit needs replacing. Thought I’d wait until summer since I didn’t need the heater. Feel stupid cause sure would have like to have had AC when it hit 40C. Good thing my land cruiser has no roof. This is next for the truck.
     
  20. Sep 28, 2021 at 2:23 PM
    #20
    baraynavab

    baraynavab Toyo Junkie

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    So I am having an issue with the my air system. I noticed that I didn't get a lot of Air flow coming out of my AC unit even when on full blast. Especially the drivers side vent to the right and left of the steering wheel. They do not get enough air flow coming out of them. I thought it may be my blower. Then on a cold morning when I turned out my heather. Initially I thought my car was not getting hot so I thought it was my heather core. However I noticed that its only the drivers side that is getting luke warm air. The passenger side is getting a lot hotter with more air flow as well. (so that rules our heater core not working).

    I think its my air mix servo motors on the drivers side that is messed up. Something is not aligned on the two air mix servo motors on the drivers that may be causing this issue. Although I do have Torque pro and its not pulling any CEL codes or anything.

    Anyone have this issue? care to elaborate further? on what you did to fix this?

    upload_2021-9-28_17-19-14.jpg
     
  21. Sep 29, 2021 at 5:59 AM
    #21
    blackoutt

    blackoutt [OP] YEAH BUDDY!

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    Sounds like either a clogged or disconnected vent duct possibly, or most likely a blend door issue like the rest of us in here. Either a failed or mistimed servo (check servo timing and confirm visual operation with links above in this thread), or a broken blend door shaft (see which knob turning doesn't change any response from the airflow temp/volume and pull that servo to see if the shaft is broken off at the gear, requires heater box replacement)
     
  22. Sep 29, 2021 at 10:44 AM
    #22
    audiowize

    audiowize New Member

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    Man, who are they getting these parts from, Chrysler?
     
  23. Sep 30, 2021 at 7:37 PM
    #23
    Crusty1

    Crusty1 New Member

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    Such a great amount of info.
    I had the 1446 code and bought the new drivers servo motor part. I am pretty sure I lined it up correctly after several hours of trying. I used some fishing line to hold back the top damper and the other dampers appeared to hold in place until the plate fit in. The lower servo I removed off the plate and lined up, but it was at a different position on the servo. So once I had the pin in to the damper, lined up to the black gear on the lower servo, I dropped it down so the servo motor would attach thinking that the servo was right?
    So now, the b1446 code is cleared and I have a b1443 code. I’m assuming that’s because it is timed incorrectly? Blower doesn’t seem to be blowing much air anywhere, servos and dampers appear to be working. Anymore tips? Try timing the servo motor, or did I just do it wrong?
     
  24. Oct 20, 2021 at 8:16 AM
    #24
    Irshmn

    Irshmn New Member

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    Hi gents, long time listener, first time caller...

    Methinks I have the same problem. I've owned my truck since new and have become used to the clicking noises as the actuators move things about. Last week I heard a noise that was quite a bit louder than before... then no hot air. I've pulled apart everything I can get too so I can see the actuator. It is moving the blend door arm, but I'm getting nothing but cold air (or AC air if I turn to Max AC). Inlet and outlet lines are hot so the core seems to be fine.

    I suspect the blend door shaft is what I heard let go, and it's now stuck on cold. Any tips on how too diagnose if the shaft has broke before removing the entire unit would be greatly appreciated. My truck is currently in pieces in my driveway, ugh. I'm at the point where I'm either going to remove the actuator sub assembly so I can see if the blend shaft arm is spinning freely (and not connected to the shaft), or if I'm lucky, pry the shaft arm off of the actuator gear so I can test it without removing the entire sub assembly.

    If it's shaft arm... any idea if it can be replaced (or fixed) without tearing apart the dash and replacing the entire heater unit?

    I'm 3 months away from trading in for a '22 TRD Pro. I'm not sure I want to dive into tearing the entire dash apart (although I'm half way there) but I loathe to pay the labor repair bill on this... on the bright side, other than this I have had zero issues of any kind with my Tundra. It has been 1000% bulletproof since the day I brought it home (currently has 120k KM on it, ~70K miles).
     
  25. Oct 20, 2021 at 1:39 PM
    #25
    maverick1536

    maverick1536 New Member

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    Are there any videos on how to remove the dashboard? My blend door arm broke off like another fellow in this thread and I'm feeling like I'm over my head. Have most of the dash out but can't get the whole top part of the dash out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  26. Oct 30, 2021 at 4:34 PM
    #26
    Andy2008

    Andy2008 New Member

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    Must be the season for heater box failures.... another long time listener, first time caller.

    Was hoping to hang on for the 2022, and then this breaks. Lotsa grinding noises and now no heat. Can't find a local mechanic who is willing to spend the time on it, so I guess I might have to dive in as it is starting to get cold. I seem to recall seeing a diagram of a jury rig system involving elastic bands for holding all the servo motors in alignment somewhere, but I can't track it down again. Any ideas?

    Thanks
     
  27. Oct 31, 2021 at 4:49 PM
    #27
    40cpe

    40cpe New Member

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    I believe what you are referring to is using the bands or strings to hold the doors in position to reinstall the blend door control motors. There is an old thread on Tundra Solutions using that method.
     
  28. Feb 1, 2022 at 9:39 AM
    #28
    Exodus_Custom

    Exodus_Custom New Member

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    New member and dealing with this exact same issue. However I have, what I hope is, a unique advantage as I have an entire machine shop as a side hobby. So my question is if anyone has a picture of the blend door itself and the shaft. Worst case scenario I plan to reverse engineer the shaft and door if I have to in hopes I don’t have to remove the entire housing. I have not been able to find a picture of what it looks like internally. If I think it’s possible and can complete it with said upgrade, I plan to make a YouTube video with explanation and purchase said upgraded parts. Thank you all for your time.
     

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