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Brake Upgrade?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by SCRunner12, Apr 4, 2016.

  1. Apr 4, 2016 at 9:23 PM
    #1
    SCRunner12

    SCRunner12 [OP] New Member

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    Are there any brake upgrades from the 231mm brakes? Ever since getting 34's my brakes have been super weak and I can feel them struggling to stop the heavy tires. With my old 4Runner we used Tundra brakes but since the Tundra is the biggest Toyota at the time that doesn't seem to be an option. Any ideas or suggestions?
     
  2. Apr 4, 2016 at 9:41 PM
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    bobeast

    bobeast really old member

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    - Bull Bar - LED Bunny Burners - AMP retractable running boards - Headlight leveling retrofit - P3 Brake Controller - 60% rear seat delete - relocation of Sub to rear wall - Bilstein 5100 x4, top setting with 2 shims per side - Coach builder +2 rear shackles w/carrier bearing drop - Firestone Air bags - on-board compressor with auto-leveling - Dual Undercover Swing Boxes. - P285/65/R20 (34.6") BFG TA KO2's - TRD Front skid plate - Pop & Lock Tailgate lock - Remote Tailgate mod - LED Headlights - Nav Bypass - iPhone integration - Serius/XM retrofit - 25% front tint - Bizon electric tonneau cover - Power folding tow mirror upgrade - 2010+ leveling Headlight mod - Auto-fold mirror mod. - one-touch lane changer mod - Flash to open garage opener mod - Rigid H/L fog light upgrade - Pushbutton / Remote start mod.
    Consider the possibility of a coinkydink. I noticed absolutely zero difference in braking power when I put on my 35s. Moreover, I've not seen any anecdotes that would leave me to believe others have noticed a problem with brakes related to larger tires. Remember, your brakes are designed to stop your truck and a heavy trailer with capacity to spare.

    My council would be to have your existing brakes checked out by a trusted mechanic before diving down the bigger brake rabbit-hole (if they are even available).
     
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  3. Apr 4, 2016 at 9:55 PM
    #3
    SCRunner12

    SCRunner12 [OP] New Member

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    Forgot to specify that I have a 1st gen. I'm sure I could get some slotted rotors and high end pads, but it's mostly low speed braking that my problem area. Had the same problem with my 4Runner and getting larger calipers, pads and rotors helped a ton.
     
  4. Apr 5, 2016 at 6:18 PM
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    Mike

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    yep bank account is running low from it..
    For us first gen guys really from 00 to 04 there is a big brake upgrade for us. Basically all you do is use the 05 or 06 calipers and rotors and it all fits no mods need it all bolts right up.

    I haven't done it to mine it's planned for this year do be done this year.

    Reason:
    Pads where not long enough cooking the rotors (stop light) running it out of true smooth surface. Toyota fixed it in 05 and 06 I want to say the 04 had newer but don't quote me.
     
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  5. Apr 5, 2016 at 6:28 PM
    #5
    LOTSOFTOYS

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    How big is your lift to fit 35s? When i put my 3 inceh lift on and 33s i went to stainless brake lines all the way around and i made a small bracket to raise my bpv on the rrar axle. Also make sure your rear brakes are adjusted correctly. If thats still not enough id say upgrade fornt rotors and pads. Ill do this eventually.... but i tow alot. Im thinking either EBC green stuff kit or stop tech kit. Heardngreat things about both
     
  6. Apr 6, 2016 at 8:07 AM
    #6
    SCRunner12

    SCRunner12 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah I have an 06 so I have the 231 mm calipers versus the 199 mm from 00-04.

    Just 5100's up front (not sure which setting as the previous owner installed them) and a 1.5" AAL. The tires are 285/75/17 so a 34" and I'm close to rubbing the bumper when turning. Also barely rub the frame at full lock.

    I do have some stainless brake lines I was going to use on my 4Runner, will have to see if they fit the tundra. I was wondering if we need to use a bpv bracket or not with these trucks. Might have to see if @jlee sells them for the tundra. I'll try those and see where I am at. I can just really heard and feel the front brakes struggling to stop the heavy tires. They have a lot of life left in them (turned the rotors 5k ago and pads had 70%) so I will see if the other fixes help first. Thanks!
     
  7. Apr 6, 2016 at 12:51 PM
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    LOTSOFTOYS

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    Oh ok yeah I am on 285/70 17. So a touch a smaller. Stainless lines helped alot. And I just made a bracket for the bpv on the tundra. Moved it up 2 inches. I have the BAMF relocation bracket on my taco because I needed to be way higher...
     
  8. Apr 21, 2016 at 2:29 PM
    #8
    monocogger

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    Do you know if the Gen1 16" wheels will work with the 04-06 calipers and rotors? Or is that why they jumped to 17" wheels then? I suppose I could just go outside and measure...
     
  9. Apr 21, 2016 at 3:42 PM
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    SCRunner12

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    Which wheels? There were the steel 16", alloy 5 spoke and TRD 5 spoke. I know the TRD wheels works and I believe the 5 spoke alloy wheels do as well but not certain.
     
  10. Apr 22, 2016 at 10:27 AM
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    monocogger

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    Hmm, good point. I think I just have the alloy 5 spoke. I'm not sure how that differs from the TRD 16"
     
  11. Apr 22, 2016 at 5:46 PM
    #11
    Rkcruza

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    De Badged / Decaled, Firestone Ride Rite Air Bags w/ Daystar Cups, 17" Rims, Big Brake kit w/ slotted & drilled rotors, plus lots of work related stuff.
    I have an 02 AC Tundra that had the upgrade done at about 5000 miles. It did help over the stock ones from the early 1st gens (I believe they changed to the bigger stuff in 03). The full kit gives new rotors, calipers, backing plates and also adds drums that are the same size but heavier than the early ones. I have since added slotted rotors and better pads. It all helped, but my 15 Taco (about the size of my Tundra) has much better feeling brakes. With the stock stuff and a loaded truck my 02's brakes were toast at 5k miles. With the bigger ones I got about 15k. With the slotted and such I am pushing 20k and still have pad left so it all helps. Then again, I live in the mountains and the truck is always around 6k lbs so it is a bit tough on brakes.
     
  12. Apr 22, 2016 at 6:13 PM
    #12
    bandit

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    Have you considered trying stainless lines first? Less fluid expansion then through the OEM rubber lines will help the feel be more consistent.
     
  13. Jul 13, 2016 at 3:19 PM
    #13
    Rkcruza

    Rkcruza New Member

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    De Badged / Decaled, Firestone Ride Rite Air Bags w/ Daystar Cups, 17" Rims, Big Brake kit w/ slotted & drilled rotors, plus lots of work related stuff.
    Many of the 16" wheels will fit with the larger Tundra brakes. I had the TRD OR SR5 Carl's Junior type star wheels as stock and they fit just fine. Am currently running 2000 era 4 Runner Limited 16" wheels and they fit also, so no, you don't need to go to 17 to clear the brakes. The main clearance issue is with the "dish" on the back side of the rim, not the actual rim diameter.

    Tundra1.jpg
     
  14. Jul 13, 2016 at 9:11 PM
    #14
    ColoradoTJ

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    Have you concidered a big brake kit? I know they are expensive, but so are lawyers and doctors if you know what I'm getting at.

    http://m.autoanything.com/brakes/75A4619A0A0.aspx

    At a minimum I would look at some performance brake rotors/pads. I put some Centric slotted on my truck.
     
  15. Jul 13, 2016 at 9:28 PM
    #15
    Mike

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    yep bank account is running low from it..
    Don't go overboard on high performance discs.

    Reason is stupid but simple in high performance discs. You don't create enough heat in them for optimal performance in city driving you will get brake fade... now if you tow alot and ride the brakes then yes you will get them to the correct temperature for maximum grab power... it's great if you race but that's it..

    Get the biggest caliper you can, get a nice set of discs.. and change you brake line to stainless and call it a day. Your wallet will not be as light as with others kits and the performance is the same.

    I have had high performance discs on my Tacoma what's on there now, autozone ones.. can I tell a difference nope, just my wallet is fatter..
     
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  16. Jul 14, 2016 at 6:41 AM
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    ColoradoTJ

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    High performance and Autozone should not be used in the same sentence.:rofl:

    The big brake kit link I posted OP is pretty decent from StopTech. It is up to you if the money is worth investing in a 10 year old truck. 2000.00 is a big hit. Only other options is 1) do nothing 2) buy performance brakes 3) go with smaller tires. Make sure your whole system is working properly like what @LOTSOFTOYS recommended with the proportioning valve. The rear brakes are only about 30% of the brake work being done, but you sure do not want to add that work to the front brakes.

    If you need brakes now, investing in some good rotors (and by that I mean get good premium rotors...not NAPA or other part store brands) and pads.

    http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A5871A0A0.aspx
    http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A5870A0A0.aspx

    If the brakes are bedded in properly to what the manufacturer recommends (it took mine two times doing the procedure to accomplish this) and the complete brake system is up to specs, you will definitely see some performance. I daily drive my performance rotors/pads and would recommend them to anyone. The next set are going on my wife's Tacoma since she has some issues with brake vibration braking from 65-0 mph. Her truck has 30K miles on it and pads are 60%. Rotor run out is good.

    I see this brake issue a lot with the Jeep crowd, especially with the guys running 35-37" tires.
     
  17. Jul 14, 2016 at 7:30 AM
    #17
    Mike

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    Lol you do Napa advance autozone even autoanything get there parts from the same manufacturer right its just rebranded.. all comes from China now.

    You failed to read what I said only the last paragraph..

    You can put high performance stuff all your truck all day long is it worth it not really. None of this was designed for larger tires and so on (it's a temporary fix) . to be designed correctly (engineering stand point) your disk would be so big it would not fit in a 20inch rim do to heat dissipation and thermodynamics, heat absorption and metallurgy so on to be factored in.. only way to correct this is reduce load or size correct disk (which you can't unless major mod work)

    One thing I will add, I have seen so many times people put high performance parts are there cars/trucks only to fail faster than the OEM part.. so much marketing hype..

    Also your brake fluid plays a bigger role than anything when it comes to stopping..
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2016
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  18. Jul 14, 2016 at 10:32 AM
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    ColoradoTJ

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    Oh I read it, just thought it was funny, that is all. I recommended a big brake kit from StopTech, but at a minimum some good aftermarket rotors/pads. So are you saying a 332 or 355mm rotor and good pads will not stop his truck better?
     
  19. Jul 14, 2016 at 11:07 AM
    #19
    Mike

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    What is the pads made out of, what are the rotors made out of good or shitty metal? i can cnc anything make bad metal look like 1000 bucks what is COVERING UP... Are the rotors thick enough to hand high heat without run out and dissipate heat EVEN across the surface. we can go on and on...

    Im laughing harder now.. one thing everyone does... Get a big brake kit you will stop better BULLSHIT.. What makes the caliper run your master cylinder right? Guess what if you dont change the flow rate to a higher flow rate to match the bigger caliper you gain NOTHING ( your psi to pad will also drop to do not enough force psi do to larger surface of the pad).. Bigger caliper needs more flow rate( more psi) than a small caliper.. The Pistions are bigger than the OEM, your replacing OEM for bigger now then you demand the same force from 332 mm vs 355mm with no mods? change of 23mm x2 for both sides is 46 mm total the cylinder cant keep up with change.. ( Your oem without changing the orifice you gain nothing in flow rate and for a bigger psi the valving needs to be changed to a higher spec.
     
  20. Jul 14, 2016 at 12:47 PM
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    LOTSOFTOYS

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    I plan on purchasing a rotor and pad kit before winter. Either stop tech or ebc most likely. This paired with my stainless lines should make stopping my trailer a breeze
     
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  21. Jul 14, 2016 at 1:23 PM
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    ColoradoTJ

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    Totally agree Mike, and not laughing at you or your knowledge...just the Autozone comment. Every time I have walked into an autozone, I feel that about 10 minutes of my life was wasted.

    I also never said you didn't need to update your Master Cylinder either. With bigger brake calipers, you have to unless you want the brake pedal to hit the floor. I do understand that. Do these Big Brake kits not come with a larger MC or part numbers for one? Look at my Jeep build. I put a 1 ton dodge MC on due to that very reason. People put on bigger brakes on from a 1 ton conversion and have mush for brakes.


    Yes, some of us can machine out whatever. The others have to trust companies that make these rotors and use high quality material. I just can't honestly say the ones you buy at NAPA are the same quality as the ones purchased at StopTech/Brembo/Centric etc. In the end, the OP has a modified vehicle with crap for brakes, and yet another reason I do not street vehicles with oversized tires within reason. The 2nd Gen Tundra brakes are very strong and would not have too many issues running a 35" tire on factory brake components.
     
  22. Jul 14, 2016 at 1:25 PM
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    ColoradoTJ

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    I would and have heard nothing but positive comments about performance.
     
  23. Jul 14, 2016 at 3:43 PM
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    bandit

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    are the breaks really that crappy on the 1st gens with 34's??? I've got 37's on stock breaks with stainless lines and better fluid and mine stops impressively well. I've got a pretty extensive background in motorcycle racing and anytime we wanted better feel, we changed the master. If we wanted better performance we changed the lines and fluid and the amount of fluid ran. Without going into carbon ceramics jibber jabber I just can't see his brakes being "weak" with 34's...maybe his brake fluid just needs to be changed....
     
  24. Jul 14, 2016 at 4:08 PM
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    Mike

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    Depends on metal used again..... If the box has china over it you know the rest of the story.. they could give two shits about metal or heat.. If its made in USA fine, Made in germany FINE ,even UK is fine..... China and asia nope (minus japan they do it right normally)..

    Problem with days parts its about global marketing.. the bad news is that i have seen some of the (so called)higher performance parts made for cars and trucks are no different than the basic cheaper stuff (marketing scheme repacking parts)


    Im have stock on my 1st gen... its 265 i remember right..

    Honestly mine stops on a dime... I have hauled with it still stopped on a dime didnt cook the brakes i was tow about 7000 pds.

    my plan was to do brake upgrade on mine, but till i find the correct parts i want, it will be on the shelf..
     
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  25. Jul 14, 2016 at 4:20 PM
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    bandit

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    You are correct on many a levels mike!

    From what I've learned from my years racing, it's 1 how the pads bite the calipers. Each metal responds differently to each pad. Finding the correct combo is the first step. Hell we even ran progressive rotors racing once we picked up vortex as a sponsor. You CAN get custom pads made up relatively cheap and easily out of any material you want once you determine the metal used in the rotors. 2. The diameter of the line in relation to the piston size at the caliper and the master. Upgrade the master you need to flow match the piston in the caliper or you'll end up busting seals and ruining your day. And then finding a good quality low corrosive brake fluid with a stupid high boiling point. So many variables in such a simple application. Truly fun to learn through trial and error.


    Ya, from what it sounds like....the OP just needs to change his break fluid lol. We're over here trying to turn a pinto into a ferrari with big brake kits, stainless lines, high boiling point fluids and flow matched pistons lmao.
     
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  26. Jul 14, 2016 at 4:36 PM
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    Mike

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    thats the truth..
     
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  27. Jul 14, 2016 at 7:11 PM
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    ColoradoTJ

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    Probably right on making a pinto into a Ferrari. I wouldn't spend that kind of money on a truck that old or even on my current one.

    I would just change tires and make sure the rest of the brake system is up to par and go with that.
     
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  28. Sep 21, 2016 at 10:46 AM
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    SCRunner12

    SCRunner12 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for all the comments guys, ended up finding some TRD BBK calipers and rotors for a very good deal, so I'll see how big of a difference it makes. Right now I'm getting vibration when braking from warped rotors and squeaking during the end of my braking, so perfect timing. Just hope they fit with my SCS Stealth 6...
     
  29. Sep 21, 2016 at 11:26 AM
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    LOTSOFTOYS

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    I have never seen or heard if a big brake kit form trd for a first gen. Link it, I gotta see this
     
  30. Sep 21, 2016 at 8:35 PM
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    SCRunner12

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