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How Coilovers Work 101

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by T-Rex266, Aug 1, 2018.

  1. Aug 2, 2018 at 1:59 PM
    #31
    Warreng

    Warreng New Member

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    I was just playing. I Am Canadian and have Elka shocks on my Ski-doo :)
     
    EZDoes It and joonbug like this.
  2. Aug 2, 2018 at 2:11 PM
    #32
    JoshuaA

    JoshuaA Canuck Member

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  3. Aug 2, 2018 at 2:50 PM
    #33
    mart1nezdaniel

    mart1nezdaniel AZ

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    Thanks but I was referring to the coachbuilder shims on top of the shock not the bumpstop spacers.
     
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  4. Aug 2, 2018 at 3:20 PM
    #34
    JoshuaA

    JoshuaA Canuck Member

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    Sorry, ya I have CB shims too, not sure, I wouldn't want to test it, depends how much travel before it hits I guess. I know David recommends the extensions if you install his shims, cheap insurance.
     
    040Tundra likes this.
  5. Aug 3, 2018 at 8:13 AM
    #35
    mart1nezdaniel

    mart1nezdaniel AZ

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    Yeah I'm getting the CB shims and CB bumpstop spacers as well. I feel like I've read a lot of feedback on this on this site and have never heard of anyone having any issues due to these shims offroad.
     
  6. Aug 3, 2018 at 8:44 AM
    #36
    JoshuaA

    JoshuaA Canuck Member

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    No expert here, I don't off-road, just paved dirt or gravel. I'm just going by the expertise of jberry813 and the physics makes sense, by using CB shims we are giving it more inertia force against the standard design. I agree with you that the increased amount of risk is difficult to measure and may possibly be small. The best thing to do is to make sure our bumpstops contact by extending them so it does its dampening job.

    I think the lack of feedback may also be those who do dedicated off-roading use proper upgraded suspensions and less likely add CB shims, primarily a height adder, I may be wrong.
     
    jberry813 likes this.
  7. Aug 3, 2018 at 8:46 AM
    #37
    mart1nezdaniel

    mart1nezdaniel AZ

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    I guess i can be the guinea pig :bananadance:
     
    JoshuaA[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Aug 3, 2018 at 9:24 AM
    #38
    Jengel451

    Jengel451 Misanthropist

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    But when should I change my oil? This thread sucks.
     
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  9. Oct 19, 2018 at 10:44 AM
    #39
    matictundra

    matictundra New Member

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    FYI. Per SuperBumps, these stops will compressed to stock height stops. You effectively have the same as stock, lol.
     
    040Tundra, equin and JoshuaA[QUOTED] like this.
  10. Oct 19, 2018 at 11:20 AM
    #40
    mart1nezdaniel

    mart1nezdaniel AZ

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    yeah those stops look a little too squishy in that video.
     
  11. Oct 19, 2018 at 11:36 AM
    #41
    Achuop

    Achuop Stormtrooper 5.7

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    When you go HAM and hit whoops at 40mph. Broke the shock. Take me about 45 minutes to replace my shock.

    C16BCF38-4B78-433F-BD27-7710A937DBC0.jpg
     
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  12. Oct 19, 2018 at 11:53 AM
    #42
    JoshuaA

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    Good to know. Ending up at the same compressed height but different dampening to reach it feels much nicer.
     
    040Tundra likes this.
  13. Oct 19, 2018 at 1:50 PM
    #43
    DividedSky

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    Here is something that I had never thought about, but is affecting me right now.

    PRELOAD and TOPPING OUT

    I have some ADS shocks w/ 700lb springs up front with enough preload to get me 3.5in of lift (and MCM UCA's). One thing I noticed the first time I went out was a horrendous banging sound when I was hitting whoops and large bumps. I thought it was the shocks bottoming out, but as I paid more attention to it, I determined it was on the up-stroke, not down-stroke.

    Coming from a MTB background, I know a fair bit about preload and negative travel... Then it hit me!! If I have 1in of preload in the spring, at full extension there is still 700lbs of force pushing the two sides of the spring perches apart. If I have 2in, then it's 1400 lbs, and at 3 inches of preload, I'm looking at nearly 2100 lbs of force. Plus you have some kinetic energy from the speed at which the two sides are traveling (mitigated a bit by the rebound). In talking to Stewie, who has the same setup, he noticed a similar problem with his initial setup and said that lowering seemed to help.

    So now that I know the culprit, I have a question for everyone...

    WHAT IS THE IDEAL SAG % FOR OFFROADING?

    Again, back to the MTB side of things, for downhill (long travel), you want to sit about 30% into your travel so that the wheels have enough room to stay in contact with the ground on little dips and stuff. On shorter travel bikes meant for more cross-country riding, you want 20%-25% sag (more preload) to stiffen things up a bit, plus you have less overall travel, so you don't want to blow through it too fast.

    So what is ideal for us folks in the Mid-travel 1.5 setups? How much up-travel vs down-travel should we have?

    :confused::confused::confused::confused:
     
  14. Oct 19, 2018 at 2:20 PM
    #44
    TheBeast

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    sometimes has to do with springs # too. 600 lbs vs 700lba
     
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  15. Oct 19, 2018 at 2:23 PM
    #45
    airgunner

    airgunner New Member

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    OK - Stupid question time...

    Why don't they make coil overs with longer springs and shocks to achieve the extra height instead relying on preload? I'm sure they can only go so much longer and still fit/work with the rest of the factory setup but I would have to think at least an extra 1" or so should be doable?
     
  16. Oct 19, 2018 at 4:39 PM
    #46
    jberry813

    jberry813 The Mad Scientist Staff Member

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    I never recommend setting ride height based on aesthetics. 3.5" is too much lift on these trucks and as you already figured out, you're got a shitload of stored energy in those springs. Probably feels like a brick. IMO, 3" is too much as well (from a performance perspective).

    How much up vs. down travel will depend on your driving style and terrain preferences and what you consider offroading. But generally speaking up/down percentages you want in the 60/40 to 70/30 range. I would not advise going to the 70/30 range without a LT kit though. Uptravel obviously is what you want for the go fast stuff like whoops, wash, and g-outs, but like MTB, you don't want so much preload that you have minimal downtravel. And again...getting it that tall, the springs are always loaded, and with that much preload you'd have to counter it with more rebound valving. Another good rule of thumb is if you have aftermarket uniball UCAs, you want that UCA bolt to be almost dead nuts center inside the uniball cup.

    If you're still blowing through the shock travel too fast, valving is off. Not sure if ADS has changed since I drove my buddies Tundra who had ADS, but I personally don't think they have enough compression valving if you're actually doing desert fun stuff.

    Well that's because spring rate is a constant value with coil springs. Hooke's law isn't dependent on spring length. F =kx where F= force, k= spring rate constant (assuming linear springs), and x is the delta of the distance from the unloaded spring to the length of the spring compressed by preload (so x is just how much preload you have).

    It doesn't matter if you have a 16" 700lb spring or a 18" 700lb spring. 700 lb spring rate is the same. You would have to compress/preload the spring the exact same amount with both springs to get the same ride height. Now "visually" it will look like the coilover has "less" preload, but that's just because the preload collar will be higher. But you will have to preload both springs the same amount if they are the same spring rate.

    Personally I like to run the lightest spring rate I can to get the ride height and performance I'm aiming for without running into coil bind issues from too much preload. After that...it's all valving.
     
    dak13, 040Tundra, SeanO86 and 4 others like this.
  17. Dec 8, 2020 at 2:28 PM
    #47
    EZDoes It

    EZDoes It New Member

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    Now that shit’s funny!
     
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  18. Jan 18, 2021 at 7:24 AM
    #48
    Alt0174

    Alt0174 New Member

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    I found this thread looking for a "Suspension 101." I learned a lot from reading it; especially that I should be looking for "Suspension 050" and a private tutor.

    Seriously, great post. I'm a good year out from delving into suspension upgrades, and this gives me a lot to consider.
     
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