Ground for LED lights

Hey fellas, I want to install pod lights in my grill and was wondering if I can tap the ground from the lights into the ground from the battery circled in pic. And if so, I can safely disconnect the ground in the pic without removing the negative from the battery? I’ve seen it done in a youtube video for a 4Runner but just want to be sure. Thanks!!

 

Yes.

 

Thanks Ron..my name is Ron too..LOL!!..when I did my bed lights...before I installed them, i tested them with the positive lead on the battery positive and being curious, I put the negative lead on a bolt in the fender, not the ground bolt, but another bolt and the lights did not light up. I then placed the negative lead on the negative post on the battery and they worked. So I thought all bolts in metal were a ground? I had to drill a hole in the thin piece of metal attached to the frame under the truck bed for my ground. All my wiring for the pod lights will be ran past the battery and through the firewall anyway since I will be installing a switch in the cab so I figured I could use the ground cable/bolt from the battery. I hear ya on disconnecting the negative before any install and was going to do that when I was going to upgrade my stereo. Doesnt disconnecting the negative reset everything like window control and moon roof and all that jaz?

 

We posted at the same time.
I try to keep it short.

 

Hey Ron....yeah that was probably it. I did read about sanding down the paint to get a good ground contact. When I was watching the youtube video on the 4Runner amber light install, he only disconnected the fender ground by the battery and never disconnected the negative and wired everything up and then connected the ground to the fender. I figured the reason why was because he was going direct to the battery as myself. Not messing with fuses or anything. This is all a learning process for me and think im finally getting it. My next step is to learn volts and amperage, proper guage wire and fuses. I really appreciate your input as it is very valuable to me. Thanks for taking the time and if mission accomplished with the lights, I will be sure to post some pics!!

 

Thanks Ron and cool easy formula. I will def. put that to use. I did place an in-line fuse right by the battery in which I will be placing another one with the amber lights. I'm anal when it comes to my wiring run. All wiring is in plastic loom and tie wrapped out of harms way. The main issues i'm coming across now is how I'm going to mount the these things in my grill. I took a look last night and there's really no mounting point for screws with washers. I might have to use some kind of brackets and mount them vertical maybe. Below is the pic of the standard grill I have. Any ideas from you or anyone are welcomed. I think they might be to big for the slim slots in the grill so probably going to have to put them in the wide slots. I do not have the lights yet. Like to do all my homework first before I buy. Also thanks for the wire gauge chart. I attached an Amp chart if it will be useful to you or anyone else reading this.

These are the lights I'm looking to get or something similar.

 

You’re welcome Ron. Yeah at first I was looking into bolt lights for the grille then decided on the clearence lights. I dont think I would want to make holes in my hood bulge for the bolt lights. Only had my truck for 8 months and cant see myself drilling into her face so soon..LOL!!! But I will see. I forgot about Superbrightleds. I bought my led strips for my kitchen cabinets and TV from them. I was gonna purchase the pod or bolt lights from Autozone and said hold up!!..look around first and with SBLD’s, they have a lifetime warranty so imma gonna go with them. Do you have a pic of your bolts lit up? Might be an incentive for me to make the drilling or cutting move.

 

Thanks Ron, LED's look nice where you have them. That definitely gives me an idea. I took another look at my grill this afternoon and there's absolutely no place to mount the one's I want to get. I'm going to have to look for screw brackets with mounting holes or something like that. Maybe I will be able to mount the screw bracket on the lip of the grille or something. I do not believe in 3M tape especially on the grille with all the vibration and weather. It's always the last screw!!..LOL!!

 

Well, mission accomplished!! Man it was a job in a half. I had 8 brackets laying in my tool box. Used 2 brackets for each light. Cut them down to size, drilled holes in them and put rubber window draft gasket seal in front of the brackets so when I screw the lights into the brackets, the rubber will sit against the grill from behind protecting the grill itself and also preventing any shifting of the lights from vibration. Used all stainless steel hardware and lock nuts. They aint going no where. Going through the firewall was a pain. It was hard to try to cut the rubber nipple sticking out from inside the engine bay. Soldered all 4 light leads...ground and positive into 2 seperate 16 guage wires. Positve and negative, then crimped the rest of the way. Used shrink sleeving and plastic wire loom for extra protection. Just need to drill hole in console to mount switch. I figured to make a different light design in the front. I’m pleased the way it turned out.

 

Thanks Ron. I had to use a wire coat hanger by itself with no wire taped to it and just jam it hard into the nipple from inside the truck to break a hole in it and kept doing it to make several holes then from the engine bay, kept twisitng and pulling on the nipple to break it off. First I tried a razor blade but the area around the firewell grommet was so damn tight that I didnt have any room with ONE hand to move and cut the damn thing. It took me a half hour alone for this. I have 2 more projects coming up and then im done. One is lights for my bullbar and upgrading the fabulous JBL premier sound system. Thanks for all your help!!

 

Who makes that COOL tool?

 

Thanks.