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Starter replacement

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Rob371, Oct 1, 2018.

  1. Oct 1, 2018 at 4:08 AM
    #1
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Steel bumpers front and rear,1.4" bilstien, KatSkinz Leather, rear airbags, halos.
    Anybody done starter replacement on the gen 2 5.7? Mine clicked a couple times yesterday before it started. Just a quick glance at starter location doesn't look too pleasant for access. It was getting late so I didn't really investigate but it looks as if the exhaust manifold needs removed to get starter out.

    Thinking it's time to trade it in. 166k miles. Starter gremlins, just dumped 1300.00 into transfer case. The zone door on heat randomly sticks in defrost and won't switch unless I turn truck off. Other day volume knob on stereo wasn't working, pushed in and out several times and it's been good since. Trucks in great shape but losing faith.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2018
  2. Oct 1, 2018 at 1:33 PM
    #2
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Left me stranded. Just towed it home. I'm about to find out for myself whether starter will fit between frame and exhaust after I cut the rotted fasteners off to remove the heat shields.
     
  3. Oct 2, 2018 at 9:23 AM
    #3
    TTCrewmax

    TTCrewmax New Member

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    Good luck! I just watched the video on youtube to see how the job is done. Looks TIGHT! The only starter on a Toyota that I've had fail was in a '95 4runner 238K on the clock. That job sucked. But you could just replace the starter contact points ($10).

    Wonder if the same can be done on the Tundra's starter or if you have to replace the whole thing?

    Keep us posted on how the job goes.
     
  4. Oct 2, 2018 at 10:39 AM
    #4
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Steel bumpers front and rear,1.4" bilstien, KatSkinz Leather, rear airbags, halos.
    Getting the heat shields off was a royal pain. That's as far as I got last night. Torched the fasteners off the exhaust manifold heat shield. That shield came out fairly intact. The fasteners for shield on starter came out easy enough but the shield itself is pretty much mangled. It's clearly not intended to be removed with exhaust in place. Now I can at least see the starter. I might disassemble the solenoid and clean the contacts but for all the aggravation I will probably just replace it and make a heat shield that is removable.

    I saw a video also. A southern truck with fasteners that weren't rusted and siezed. Mines been through several winters. Doesn't look pretty. Hoping I can avoid too much flame wrench.
     
    NewImprovedRon likes this.
  5. Oct 3, 2018 at 3:04 PM
    #5
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Starter is out.

    No way around it. Intermediate exhaust pipe (converter) and manifold must be removed and at least moved out of the way. One heat shield preventing manifold from coming all the way out but I was able to get starter around it. Took a small amount of heat to break loose manifold nuts and flange nuts. For the most part everything is accessible with the right combination of swivel sockets, extensions and tremendous patience. The video I watched does a pretty accurate job on the how to. If you have a snow belt truck better plan on using the torch to remove fasteners. I torched the fasteners at rear flange for intermediate pipe leading back and had to do both sides like the video says. All the others came off with mild heat. Manifold flange to intermediate pipe and manifold to head fasteners took just a little heat with acetylene. Majority of work was done through the wheel well and without a hoist.



    This video says it all. No shortcuts that I found.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZbc2zXB6dM
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2018
  6. Oct 3, 2018 at 4:14 PM
    #6
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Sorry for being lazy but I'm not posting pics. Won't help. It is what it is and the guy that made the video was spot on in the process; including losing some skin. I tried to cheat and effed up heat shields in the process. I tried to see if it could be extracted without removing exhaust. Can't be done from my experience. I would anticipate around 600 to 800 bucks to hire this out at an 80 dollar per hour shop rate. Dealer rate up here is $115.00 I haven't priced starter yet so I might be on the low side. Manifold gaskets and new fasteners will add to the cost. I'm going to order new heat shields so I gotta add that in also. My time plus expenses probably cost me a grand by the time it's done.
     
  7. Oct 7, 2018 at 9:57 AM
    #7
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    I did't take time to photo removal. Was in a hurry. Now I'm past the mental part of what a pain in the ass it is so just taking my time on reassembly. Got company coming so taking a break for now. Starter is on. Heat shield is on starter. Gasket surfaces are cleaned.Starter.jpg Starter 2.jpg Starter 2.jpg

    Starter heat shield.jpg
    gasket surface.jpg
     
  8. Oct 7, 2018 at 3:55 PM
    #8
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Manifold back on. It is a tedious job getting it in place. Barely goes back in but it will go.

    Manifold.jpg
     
    Black Wolf, OBXTundra and 15whtrd like this.
  9. Oct 8, 2018 at 5:01 AM
    #9
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    I forgot to upload this last night. A view from underneath. Towards the top of photo there are two studs protruding from firewall. Another heat shield goes there. I removed it making more clearance for the manifold going in and out. There is another shield below that. the location is under passenger foot well. I just bent that one out of the way a little and will bend it back prior to installing intermediate pipe. Heat shield on manifold needs installed, intermediate pipe, plug in 02 sensors,,... almost there.Manifold 2.jpg
     
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  10. Oct 8, 2018 at 8:12 AM
    #10
    TTCrewmax

    TTCrewmax New Member

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    Good work. If you had to do it again would you just pay the $1k and let someone else do it? Haha
     
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  11. Oct 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM
    #11
    Mountun Goat

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    I replaced mine without removing the manifolds. I removed the engine mount bolts and jacked the motor up. I had to use a rachet strap to pull the motor mount bolt to realign it when dropping the motor back down. Worked like a charm. Still probably the hardest job I’ve done on a vehicle. And I’ve built a truck from the ground up. Toyota sure makes thing fit in places without waste! Took me 6 hours in total laying in the snow:(. And yes if it goes again I’m paying for someone else to do it haha
     
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  12. Oct 8, 2018 at 8:37 AM
    #12
    Black Wolf

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  13. Oct 8, 2018 at 11:57 AM
    #13
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Steel bumpers front and rear,1.4" bilstien, KatSkinz Leather, rear airbags, halos.

    I looked at the engine mounts and considered doing the same. Based on your experience and mine I'd say six of one, half dozen of the other. I also think if I had to do it again I might just hire it out. Sure as hell didn't save much doing it myself. I do get discounted parts so I didn't pay much mark-up. Dealer wanted 500 bucks for an OE starter. Any repair shop will typically add 50%, many will add 100%. I paid 140.00 with lifetime warranty on starter.

    I have a couple really good shops I go to when I don't have time to do it myself. If I had a hoist I'd do everything myself. Three weeks ago I put 1300 into the transfer case so I didn't have the truck for a week and a half. Got it back on a Wednesday, starter failed following Monday. So I'm looking at shop scheduling, waiting another week or ten days to get back on the schedule at shop, tow fee to get it to shop or load it and haul it myself but with what? The 4runner? The Trailblazer? The Discovery? Or borrow a truck?. I was three miles from home when it failed to start so I dragged it home with a strap. I didn't anticipate the time involved so I put it on jack stands in the barn. I took my time once I realized it wasn't going to be an hour swap like the dozens upon dozens of other starters I've done. I think the hardest part was getting my head around what a pain in the ass it was. I worked on it here and there when I had spare time.

    Benefit of doing it myself is I know nothing was hacked and if I gotta do it again I know the process.

    At the least, if I hire it out next time I can guide them. That has been the crux with this truck. Very few failures but when you get a failure it's hard finding anyone that's had experience besides dealer at $115.00 per hour.

    I learned my way around the truck a little. Now I know.

    I'll be posting more pics of the back together steps. Probably tomorrow.
     
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  14. Oct 8, 2018 at 5:56 PM
    #14
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Maybe. If you figure an average 50% mark up on parts and add labor at say 78 bucks an hour for a shop, or 115 for dealer labor you'll be at 800 to 1000. Dealer price on starter was 600, they said they'd sell at 500. I don't know what the book says for RnR but at 115 and four hours your pretty much at a grand. You got exhaust gaskets, manifold gasket, etc... Bust a manifold stud or fuck up some threads and your screwed. End up being a 1500 dollar job.
     
  15. Oct 12, 2018 at 7:51 AM
    #15
    Mountun Goat

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    This is all I have left of them :anonymous:

    4041E238-356B-4F55-AE7C-F1C10593C597.jpg
    7A17CA10-0C24-4AD7-8B50-129841256F4B.jpg
    F03CFD08-EE80-4DC1-A971-DA6C6673B35D.jpg
    690044A6-5C19-4F45-BD29-6E5C7B39249B.jpg
     
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  16. Oct 12, 2018 at 8:14 AM
    #16
    Black Wolf

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    I like it but hope I don't have to it for a while!
     
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  17. Oct 12, 2018 at 9:57 AM
    #17
    Mountun Goat

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    No kidding. It was a royal pain in the ass!
     
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  18. Oct 12, 2018 at 11:28 AM
    #18
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah. Either way you go is a pain in the ass.

    Looks like you left off heat shields. I considered it but experience kicked in. I remember back in my Chevy days if you had headers on a small block you always carried a spare starter, or you just sit there waiting for it to cool off with your fingers crossed. One thing that will certainly prematurely kill anything electrical is heat. On the tundra we have exhaust close to starter, brake line, wire harness, and rubber hose located above. Either one was enough for me to replace the heat shields.

    Anything I could do to prolong having to do it again.
     
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  19. Oct 12, 2018 at 11:42 AM
    #19
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    More pics backing my way out of the starter replacement. Reinstalling fastener to dipstick tube. Taped screw to socket cause fingers too fat to get it started.dipstick 1.jpg
     
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  20. Oct 12, 2018 at 11:42 AM
    #20
    Mountun Goat

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    I did jam the shields back in place after. With a little force for sure haha. They aren’t the same shape as they once were. But sheidling heat for sure still.
     
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  21. Oct 12, 2018 at 11:45 AM
    #21
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Dipstick fastener install.dipstick 2.jpg
     
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  22. Oct 12, 2018 at 11:47 AM
    #22
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Harness clipped to dipstick tube.dipstick 3.jpg
     
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  23. Oct 12, 2018 at 11:49 AM
    #23
    Mountun Goat

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    I do have to say Toyota engineer the hell out of their vehicles. All those little clips and bolts holding everything in are never meant to come apart haha
     
  24. Oct 12, 2018 at 11:49 AM
    #24
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Heat shield back on firewall.
    Firewall heatshiled.jpg
     
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  25. Oct 12, 2018 at 11:50 AM
    #25
    ColoradoTJ

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    Remember the 4.7L starter is under the intake manifold.

    Engineering marvel

    29428474-89E2-40EF-B540-DEDBC655D157.jpg
     
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  26. Oct 12, 2018 at 11:56 AM
    #26
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Harness clips removed for access, getting hands in there.

    harness 1.jpg
    harness 1 anchor.jpg
    harness 2.jpg
    harness 2 anchor.jpg
     
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  27. Oct 12, 2018 at 12:08 PM
    #27
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Steel bumpers front and rear,1.4" bilstien, KatSkinz Leather, rear airbags, halos.
    Intermediate pipe back on. Last steps were putting the rubber flaps or splash guards back inside the wheel well, putting wheel back on, getting off jack stands, picking up & putting away tools for an hour, sweeping floor. All followed by test drive to the liquor store.exhaust view.jpg exhaust view.jpg

    intermediate pipe aft.jpg
    firewall heat shield 2.jpg
     
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  28. Oct 12, 2018 at 12:11 PM
    #28
    Rob371

    Rob371 [OP] New Member

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    Steel bumpers front and rear,1.4" bilstien, KatSkinz Leather, rear airbags, halos.

    Tell me it isn't so! I have a 4 runner with 4.7L
     
  29. Oct 12, 2018 at 12:27 PM
    #29
    ColoradoTJ

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    Yep. Intake manifold or transmission has to come out. Obviously the intake manifold is the easier choice, and isn’t a horrible job.
     
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  30. Oct 5, 2019 at 4:47 PM
    #30
    dragon_coma

    dragon_coma New Member

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    Wow. Mine failed today. Thanks for your write up. I’m seriously considering getting it done.
     

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