Ask the Toyota mechanic!

If you could take a few minutes to read my dilema, i would appreciate it and any advice will be welcomed. I changed the serpentine belt on 2008 tundra sr5 and then there was this squealing that started.It will go away after 15 to 20 seconds (almost like when a fan clutch would kick in). Mechanic told me that is was the bearing on the pulley that the fan hooks to. They say they replaced but the squeal is still there. Saw on you tube, where you can spray a little water on the ribbed side off the belt, and if squeal subsides then chances are that it is tensioner pulley.Also, i saw, where goodyear gatorback belts are the better ones to use. They seem to have more flexibility if the pulleys are misaligned. Also the shop said all my pulleys looked good and spun freely. What is the best test to do myself to remedy the problem?

 

Good question... I know the rear housings aren't exactly the same. As for the cam she'll and thirds.... hmmmm

 

Commonly seen where the belt is routed wrong causing squeeling

 

I changed to the gator back belt, when I replaced the pulleys. No complaints here. I will say, depending on your mileage, that I would change the pulleys out while your replacing belt. That's just my 2 cents. I have an 08 also and wasn't that bad on the pocket, especially if you do it yourself. Hope this helps

 

Which pulleys? The idler and tensioner. And it looks like there is only one way to route the belt. Could not find any diagram on routing it. Any help? How hard are the pulleys to change?

 

Getting the Coachbuilder1 shims & shackles this week. What is the quickest way to install the shims? Any tips? Thanks in advance!

 

Here ya go

 

LOTSOFTOYS and any others please feel free to chime in. Ive ordered parts to level my 2016 CM RWD specifically the Bilstein 5100 and 1.5" toytec aluminum blocks for rear.
My 2 questions are first would setting the 5100's at the highest setting cause me any issues such as alignment or ride issues? Is there a way to get a full 3" in front without screwing up ride/alignment problems ect?
Also I got the Toytec blocks and noticed they were not beveled, so do I need to modify the angle with a bearing drop or is 1.5" not a big enough deal to adjust it?

Thanks for all your help, Im no mechanic but I have read every issue posted in this thread and feel much more informed about any future issues. This is a good reference thread.

 

Yes the idler and tensioner. Yeah only one way for belt. I had a buddy do mine as I have no time for anything, was like a $120 in labor.

 

Would that be for a 2008 as well?

 

Thanks for the info. Oem parts ok?

 

Yes u need to realign everytime u change the front suspension. Putting the 5100s on the top notch with stock springs would ride rough. Talk to toytec about a set of eibach springs maybe? And a 1.5 inch block I the back doesn't need a shim. Toss it in and see how it drives

Yes all 5.7 is the same unless sc'd

 

Thank You for your response.
I guess my main concern is getting this aligned properly without needing a control arm replacement. Do you know what seems to be the most tried and true combination of lift/shim all while keeping it in alignment spec. I keep hearing about the "Anatomy of your Truck" determines how much lift you will get? In your experience shouldn't all 2016 rwd CM models be almost exactly the same in the front end?

 

They Are yes but payload changes from truck to truck... I can say it's possible to have a decent alignment without ucas and 3 inches of lift. Decent, nowhere near what ucas can help achieve.
Imho, if u are worried already about how it's gonna feel and how the alignment is gonna be and u don't wanna do ucas, you shouldn't lift the truck.

 

Thanks for your response and advice.
While I wait for my parts to get here unfortunately I read the setups that work well and also the ones that are problematic. At least this way I know what to expect when I tackle the job.
Its more about improving the stock ride than the lift.
Thanks again

 

I appreciate your help and effort in answering so many questions. Here's mine.
On the newer tundras like mine, a 2015 DC Pro, the wheel sensors in the front are held in place with little bolts. The ones holding the rear are short studs with a nut. These sure look like an adjustable setting is intended. Is this an adjustment? Why are the fronts different from the rear?

 

No clue why they are different, and absolutely not, no adjustment. They need to be flush or they won't read correctly

 

Thanks for that! How can I find out why the rears have the little stud and locknut assembly?

 

Call toyota and ask an engineer; ) jp jp I have no clue man, not a clue why they did that

 

Which way does the air flow through the cabin air filter? Common sense tells me top to bottom, but my brain tells me to ask someone that knows.

 

It may be molded on the outside of the filter door. I thing that it's printed on the filter too, but that wouldn't do a person any good if they didn't know which way to install it in the vehicle.

So I Googled it and found a video on YouTube that says the air flows from the top down.

 

Thanks. The door only says up but I got home I opened it and the filter is marked with airflow. Top down as you said.

 

Yup top to bottom.

 

@LOTSOFTOYS

How much wood could a Tundra chuck if a Tundra could chuck wood?

 

Will removing the over load leaf mess anything up? destroy the shocks? Ruin handling ? I'm looking for an easy way to lower the rear to level the truck. I've heard you can get about an 1'' of drop

 

If you are trying to level your truck, lowering the rear is not the best choice. Bring the front end up. Having a little bit of rake is good for them lighter loads. Just sayin

 

Changing any of the suspension from stock is going to affect towing and payload capacity. With a leveling kit up front you'll end up with a sagging rear end. If and when I start towin I'll add airbags.

Everyone has lifted or leveled tundras I'm just trying to be different

 

@LOTSOFTOYS

Fuel system question. I recently noticed a temporary increase in power and fuel efficiency. I think it was after I took the engine to high rpms one day. It lasted for about a week and a half and has now returned back to previous condition which I thought was normal but now I suspect I have a minor issue in the fuel or injector system.

I'm averaging 16-18 mpg on the highway but last week I was able to average 24 mpg on the same stretch of highway (using cruise control both times). I have a code scanner and don't have any codes present or pending. i also checked each cylinder log for misfire counts and all read 0. Is there anything issue that might be present that is not throwing a code? Anything I can do such as an additive to possibly clean out any gunk in the fuel system?

I'm currently at 110,xxx miles.

 

Fuel injector cleaner isn't a bad idea? We sell bg products and haven't had issues. Bg 44k is good stuff. Run some through a tank and see what happens. With out any codes tough to say man... what are your long term fuek trims?

 

Sorry I'm obviously not up to snuff with ya'lls fancy shop lingo, what are 'fuek trims'?