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Phoenix to Denver and back - 11 Days of Dirt Roads

Discussion in 'Trip Reports' started by KevinK, Jun 12, 2017.

  1. Jun 26, 2017 at 9:59 AM
    #31
    FlashCulprit

    FlashCulprit ColoradoTJ's whipping boy/Gino's illegitimate son.

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    Blm roads are standard rating 2. So you should be good. Mostly gravel with small rocks and minor obstacles.
     
    KevinK[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  2. Jun 26, 2017 at 3:11 PM
    #32
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan Amateur fabricator

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    Sub'd for ideas.

    I'm doing a very similar trip to Colorado from San Diego with my girlfriend and dogs starting on the 9th or 10th until the 14th or 15th. My main goal is to hit Ouray. Luckily, I have a 45-gallon auxiliary gas tank in my truck bed so I can plan my routes a little better without having to stop for gas so often.
     
  3. Jun 26, 2017 at 4:15 PM
    #33
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    I'll share our planned route once it's finished up. You'll be leaving before I can post our recorded tracks. I'm finding I may need to take off a month to cover the distance entirely by dirt. :eek:

    For one section alone, from Big Water to Moab, the route I started using as a guide took them 6 days. I hope they were just taking their sweet-ass time, because I'm hoping to cover that distance in 2.5 days.


    Here is the route from Moab to Ouray if you want to start looking at that section. The breaks in the maps don't indicate anything other than the fact google maps can only handle so many destinations in a route, so it's broken up.

    Moab (gas) to Buckeye Campground 40 miles https://goo.gl/maps/mooR7k5t4mF2
    Buckeye Campground to Nucla (gas) 65 miles https://goo.gl/maps/zTw9XV5eZuQ2
    Nucla (gas) to Ouray (gas) 100 miles https://goo.gl/maps/m9ZSbbSVeVs


    It's a modified version of the Rimrocker Trail that goes from Moab to Montrose. - 160 miles of dirt
    https://www.trailsoffroad.com/trails/1843-rimrocker

    From this post:
    https://www.tundras.com/threads/utah-area-bs-thread.7943/page-6#post-266766
     
  4. Jun 29, 2017 at 4:24 PM
    #34
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    We just moved the departure date forward to allow more time to get to Denver. We're now at 12 days to get to Denver from Phoenix, and 3 to get home, so the return trip is going to be a little bit more high speed dirt where possible, and scenic route the rest of the way. Denver to Phoenix is only about 13 hours, so 3 days should give us some time for a little dirt and scenery.

    @ColoradoTJ can I get some input if you have it on the specific section below? Or anyone else familiar with the area chime in. :)

    I'm specifically looking for dirt between Montrose and Denver, or Ouray and Denver. Figure about 3-4 days to complete that leg (we may do the Alpine loop prior to heading to Denver). We have about a 200 mile range before needing gas. We don't need any food, water or ice service.
     
  5. Jun 29, 2017 at 5:26 PM
    #35
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    Here is a good link to plan a trip.

    https://www.alltrails.com/explore?b...r_lng=-104.5074462890625&a[]=off-road-driving

    Stay out of some of the hard core stuff in Gypsum, but there is a lot of scenic trails back in there. It isn't on this trail map, but just in case someone gives you an "idea" to head back there. Specifically 10 Falls.

    https://www.trails.com/colorado/off-highway-drives
     
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  6. Jul 9, 2017 at 8:49 AM
    #36
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Back in Arizona. Again.
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    We left Wednesday morning. 850 miles so far and almost to Moab. About 600 on dirt. We've seen 8 vehicles offroad so far and four of them was a group of quads together.
    Climbed some crazy switchbacks between Poison Spring and Hans Flat.

    Keep an eye on Instagram for most current status.

    IMG_4313.jpg

    IMG_4310.jpg
     
  7. Jul 9, 2017 at 10:01 AM
    #37
    FlashCulprit

    FlashCulprit ColoradoTJ's whipping boy/Gino's illegitimate son.

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    Man!!!! Looks so gorgeous. Hope you're beating the heat and having a blast!
     
    KevinK[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  8. Jul 14, 2017 at 4:07 PM
    #38
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Back in Arizona. Again.
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    It's been amazing so far!

    We made it to Denver today - 1,611 miles, with 1,200 on dirt.

    Heading to Boulder from Golden right now to camp for the night.

    IMG_4431.jpg

    IMG_4593.jpg

    IMG_7971.jpg

    IMG_4824.jpg

    IMG_5058.jpg
     
  9. Jul 14, 2017 at 4:57 PM
    #39
    TXMiamiFan

    TXMiamiFan SSEM #3 and tractor extraordinaire

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    Awesome!
     
  10. Jul 14, 2017 at 5:29 PM
    #40
    Eclipsed & Floating

    Eclipsed & Floating Over it.........

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    @KevinK

    Favorite Campsite:

    Favorite Trail:

    Favorite Views:

    Most challenging Trail:

    What you want to do again:

    What you wouldn't do again:

    Best of the best in CO then Utah that a decently modded Tundra could do:

    What you wouldn't recommend for a decently modded Tundra in CO and then Utah:


    Decently modded: 3/1 2.0 lift with coilovers, full skids, stock springs, sliders, 35s, bedrack/RTT (meaning heavy load), roughly 250lbs of gear, and stock bumpers.
     
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  11. Jul 22, 2017 at 4:01 PM
    #41
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    I've been trying to update all the different threads and social media sites. This is a great idea!

    Lisa and I will look it over this weekend and post up a response. :thumbsup:

    The immediate stand out campsite has to be the top of Hells Backbone in Utah north of Escalante. The view was insane...

    IMG_4008.jpg

    Best trail is gonnna be so hard to pick, but the standout at first is Poison Springs to Hans Flat Ranger Station. I don't think I'd suggest doing that alone. I didn't know about this crazy set of switchbacks to make the climb up the canyon wall and wondered if we'd have to backtrack a really really long way out.

    IMG_4310.jpg

    IMG_4313.jpg
     
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  12. Jul 26, 2017 at 1:52 PM
    #42
    smslavin

    smslavin Behind a lens...

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    Some stuff
    Little bit late for the OP but there is this route. Not sure if I'll have the truck ready for this year but it's definitely being planned out for next year. Maybe early summer right after the high passes are open.

    http://ridebdr.com/COBDR
     
  13. Jul 26, 2017 at 4:32 PM
    #43
    TXMiamiFan

    TXMiamiFan SSEM #3 and tractor extraordinaire

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    Looks like a motorcycle trail; is it passable in a Tundra?
     
  14. Jul 26, 2017 at 4:50 PM
    #44
    smslavin

    smslavin Behind a lens...

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    There's no singletrack and should be totally doable in a Tundra. There's a guy on American Adventurist doing it in what looks like a F150.
     
  15. Jul 26, 2017 at 5:44 PM
    #45
    TXMiamiFan

    TXMiamiFan SSEM #3 and tractor extraordinaire

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    Well, if an F150 can do it . . .
     
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  16. Jul 26, 2017 at 5:53 PM
    #46
    CM-LENNY

    CM-LENNY No Complaints

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    Pretty cool stuff Kevin. Looks like an amazing trip so far. Thanks for posting the pics and be safe with Lisa and the pups the rest of your venture.
     
  17. Jul 26, 2017 at 5:57 PM
    #47
    too tall

    too tall New Member

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    Hats off to you man. That's a wonderful trip. I used to live in Rock Springs, WY and knew every inch of dirt. It is a wonderful part of the world.
     
  18. Jul 26, 2017 at 6:14 PM
    #48
    JC303

    JC303 Same same but different

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    That trip looks awesome. I hope to do this someday. Thanks for keeping us posted!
     
  19. Sep 25, 2017 at 5:01 PM
    #49
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Damn it's taken one hot minute to get back to this! I'm gonna do my best to fill this in with Utah and Colorado answers...


    Favorite Campsite:
    UT, top of Hell's Backbone - there's a 180 degree view off the cliff edge as in the picture in the post above
    FullSizeRender 14.jpg

    CO, along the Rimrocker trail near the border of UT - at these coordinates you're on top of the mountain with almost 360 degree views (38.43672, -109.01260)
    IMG_4477.jpg


    Favorite Trail:
    UT, besides all the cool stuff there is in Moab (which we largely skipped since we're heading back in October), the stretch from Poison Spring to Hans Flat ranger station was the most rugged and beautiful. We did it solo, but I would not recommend that unless you are 100% confident in your ability to take care of yourself. There is no cell phone signal, very little water, many trail offshoots, and almost zero traffic - we saw one vehicle in 36 hours out there, and the rangers at the station thought we were retarded.
    FullSizeRender 17.jpg

    IMG_4257.jpg

    IMG_4311.jpg


    CO, dude - so many good trails in the Alpine area. We were able to climb most of the passes we wanted to, but the switchbacks to come down Black Bear were still closed. They opened the day after we left. :| That's on our Go Back list for sure. The alpine passes aren't particularly difficult, and could feasible be done in any stock Tundra - they're just a little butt-puckery if you don't like heights. It's more a driver confidence thing than a vehicle capability thing in most cases.
    IMG_4712.jpg
    IMG_4653.jpg
    IMG_4669.jpg


    Favorite Views: We stopped counting. I mean we literally stopped trying to take pictures of stuff because it was so idiotically beautiful in every direction. I'd pause to look at something, grab the phone to snap a pic, look at the phone and say "what the fuck? that is no where near what I'm looking at." The first view that stands out though is the view from Smokey Mountain road after making the initial climb from Big Water towards Escalante, UT. You start down low near Lake Powell and do this climb that isn't difficult (stock Tundra could easily make it) but starts to get narrow as it goes up the face of the mountain.
    _IMG_3876.jpg

    CO, bar none, the best view we had was sunset between Crested Butte and Aspen, CO. We had planned to take Pearl Pass from CB to Aspen on kind of a whim. Our planned route had only been to get to Ouray and then make it up from there. Lisa wanted to see Aspen, so we plotted a path that would take us there mostly via dirt. Since the path was spontaneous, we didn't have a lot of info to go on, other than I could see there was a line on our topo map that connected CB and Aspen, so we were gonna go for it. Come to find out there was a pretty fast flowing water crossing in our way and we decided not to cross it by ourselves (another one for our Go Back list). Long story short (we actually filmed some of this and are including the footage in a youtube episode we're putting together) we needed to camp near where we were and ended up in this kind of valley. It was raining and there were rainbows and unicorns and shit - it was epic.
    IMG_4862.jpg


    Most challenging Trail:
    UT, definitely 3D Jeep trail in Moab - I think we did it backwards and it had one obstacle called The Wall. It's appropriately named. The front wheels were bouncing into the air as we slowly climbed because it's so steep and we were loaded in the bed. We made it up, but were looking at sky the whole time. It's not a long climb, but almost couldn't make it.
    This isn't a picture of The Wall because I was too busy shitting my pants. I think Lisa has a video that I'll include in the youtube film.
    IMG_4433.jpg

    CO, the place we turned back from our attempt at Pearl Pass was probably the trickiest, but mostly due to the mud and rain making the shelf road slicker than snot on a brass door knob.
    Here's a pic of the water crossing we didn't go all the way across since I don't have pics of the mud, again due to shat pants.
    IMG_4853.jpg

    What you want to do again:
    All of it. Seriously, if we could go do the exact route over again, we would. As it is our Go Back list is massive. There were so many offshoots and scenic overlooks, that we could go on this trip for 30 days instead of 13 and still see a ton of new stuff.

    The short short Go Back list is Southern Utah - our regular band of idiots, the Speed Glampers Uberfahrt www.sgu.life are going there this week, and we were supposed to go, but Lisa just started a new job and can't get the time off. We're super bummed because it covers a bunch of stuff we did and some new stuff we skipped - namely some slot canyon hikes in Escalante.

    Moab is a must do and we're heading back in October.

    Black Bear pass is on list the next time we're in the Alpine area of CO. We really needed a few days there and just passed through too quickly.


    What you wouldn't do again:
    The section of Rim Rocker trail in Utah is kinda low on scenery and high on trail discomfort. A metric shitload of baseball size rocks and long long stretches of pinstriping tunnels through the brush. We don't care about the striping, but the dogs were going bonkers at all the noise it was making - like a hundred fingernails on the chalkboard at once. The rockiness of the terrain was different than the slickrock of Moab or the dirt like most of CO - it was like driving on baseballs for probably 20 miles? I'm glad we did it an can mark it off our list, but we won't be going back for more. Maybe we were just tired - that was a long day.
    IMG_4456.jpg


    Best of the best in CO then Utah that a decently modded Tundra could do:

    CO, do all the Alpine Loop passes. They're beautiful and your truck can make it. Bring a good spotter for some of the switchbacks, but don't worry about the truck's ability. There's also some great trails our buddy in Colorado showed us south of Colorado Springs in the Beaver Creek Wilderness area.

    UT, I think the whole Southern Utah Traverse is doable in a decently modded Tundra. The road between Big Water and Escalante is awesome and there are a few different routes you can do. Up and over via the Smokey Mountain road for the views, or in the washes and do the slot canyon hikes. The Burr Trail was really pretty too and doable in a stock Tundra. A decently modded Tundra should go for Muley Twist trail near the Burr Trail switchbacks - it's a little out-and-back with a short hike to see an arch.
    IMG_4149.jpg


    What you wouldn't recommend for a decently modded Tundra in CO and then Utah:

    We didn't find anything in CO that a decently modded Tundra couldn't do - but we had a lot more pavement in CO than we wanted, so I'm sure there's a whole shitload of tough trails we didn't get to see.

    In UT, Moab has a whole set of different levels of trail available. If you want to see Moab, there is a ton of great trails that a stock Tundra could make, but there's also a ton that we wouldn't take our current setup on. A great challenge for a decent Tundra in UT would probably be Poison Spring to Hans Flat - but not alone, so that's why I'm putting it in the Wouldn't Recommend section because it's not to be taken lightly (obviously it's possible, but anyone going solo needs to know their limits). I think a small team of decently modded Tundras should certainly do it, and have a lot of fun.


    Decently modded: 3/1 2.0 lift with coilovers, full skids, stock springs, sliders, 35s, bedrack/RTT (meaning heavy load), roughly 250lbs of gear, and stock bumpers.
     
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  20. Sep 25, 2017 at 5:19 PM
    #50
    Eclipsed & Floating

    Eclipsed & Floating Over it.........

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    TOTAL BADASSERY FOR A WRITE UP!!!

    Thanks for taking the time, Kevin! I have a little time in November and I'm thinking of getting a little deeper into CO if the snow hasn't started to get too heavy yet.

    Thanks again, brother! I'm hoping to catch up to you one of these days
     
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  21. Sep 25, 2017 at 6:20 PM
    #51
    TXMiamiFan

    TXMiamiFan SSEM #3 and tractor extraordinaire

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    Love it! Thanks for pics and write up. I didn’t do the UT section of RR and looks like it was a good decision LOL.
     
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  22. Sep 25, 2017 at 7:46 PM
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    TundraTss

    TundraTss The Mistress

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    Everything. Literally.
    Sí sè puedé.
    I feel like the other guys in the thread have you covered, so I'll just wish you a bon voyage.
    Don't get stuck.
    If you do, you didn't have enough mods......
     
  23. Dec 3, 2017 at 7:34 PM
    #53
    UTTundra

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    Looks like you hit the Flint Trail switchbacks on your way up to Hans Flat. I've made the drive solo from Hans Flat out to the Maze Overlook to backpack the Maze a couple times. Awesome drive and can be challenging in some places. There are a couple sections where a spotter can be helpful. Definitely one of the most remote places in the lower 48.
     
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  24. Oct 3, 2018 at 3:17 AM
    #54
    Bo-Hunter

    Bo-Hunter I like fast

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    Thanks for sharing @KevinK Thats pretty awesome. I am originally from Colorado and used to do some of those trails back in the day, brings back fond memories.
     
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  25. Oct 3, 2018 at 9:53 AM
    #55
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Thanks Greg! It was an adventure for sure. We could have made the trip last a month and still see less than half of what we wanted to see.

    Planning our next good sized trip out in the northeast - Ohio through Quebec to Newfoundland, and back through Nova Scotia and New England. Maybe you can join us for part of that one. Probably a year or so away. Our goal is to drive to the easternmost edge of North America (excluding Greenland since we can't drive there).

    We may hook up with @TheWarden on that one since he lives in Newfoundland and is the game warden for the area and knows his way around the backcountry.
     
  26. Oct 4, 2018 at 3:44 AM
    #56
    Bo-Hunter

    Bo-Hunter I like fast

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    That sounds cool, I've flown in to Toronto but as far as the NE, I have never been north of Albany NY. It sounds like a cool place to explore. I've always wanted to explore Main but the Quebec, Newfoundland thing sounds intriguing.
     
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