Ask the Detailer

I came out awesome!

 

Skippy's not bad...but Jif takes it off in a Jiffy (I'm sorry I couldn't resist)

 

I like the new OBSSSSD Tire Dressing - Matte A very nice look and it has lasted (so far)

 

NO!

You should not clay bar a ceramic coated car.
It can/will damage the coating.
My suggestion would be IronX

 

IF you use a leaf blower...use one that has NEVER blown a leaf!
Dirt does/can get into the rotors and it will come out the other end.
If you must use a leaf blower then I suggest using a section of dryer hose clamp and make an intake filter.

 

I have a couple of new versions of the original "Merlin's Majic Elixer" formula that (folks have gone outside the box) I have not tried yet.
Would you like to know what they are?

 

I was just asking about it so far all I have done is wash and wax it using Meguiar’s Ultimate products my white paint shines like a new car. I just want my finish to last as long as possible.
What can I do to the engine bay and hoses to make the bay shine like new

 

What is the opinion of this product? I got it to coat my travel trailer. Anyone use it? Thanks

 

I have put it on the smooth fiberglass sides of my trailer. Seems to make it easier to clean. Haven't tried it on my truck yet. Amazon reviews are good, value the opinions of the forum. I will try it sometime this week and let you know.

 

Ummmm...YES I would love to know!!!!! The original with the carpro stuff is my go to mix. Love it man, thanks so much

 

Hey Mike! I’ve chatted with you a bit on FB. Welcome aboard! Of course we’d like to hear about them. Here’s to hoping I already have the ingredients. My detailing cabinet is out of room!

 

I like the satin/matte "showroom new" look of Sonus Trim and Motor Kote.
I've used it for years. It's specifically designed for use in the engine bay.

Key Benefits

• The high-temperature acrylic wax formula is dust resistant
• Protects engine compartment and components
• Protects undercarriages, bed liners, and cladding
• Easy to apply

Pictures? Probably somewhere but I'm not a big Before/After guy. Try this -> link

 

IMHO The Meguiars Ultimate product line is their top of the line consumer products.
However, I'm not a big fan of their Last Step Products (LSP) The waxes and sealants.
For white paint, I like bright shiny sparkle. I might suggest Zaino Z-2 or Collinite 845.

Engine plastics and hoses. Are you looking for wet/shiny or a matte/satin finish "look"?

 

Alright then...here you go...

Yepper, you should already have the ingredients.
My cabinets (plural) are crammed full. Lots of choices.
Sadly, I've found there is no one-size-fits-all product(s).
________

The original formula was 50ml Reset, 50ml ECH2o, CarPro 500ml Empty Spray Bottle.
Fill with distilled water and shake well.
NOTE: Always shake well before use (like you should do with all detailing chemistry products)

OK, Here is Version 2

100ml Reset, 50ml ECH2o, CarPro 500ml Empty Spray Bottle. Fill with distilled water and shake well.
The difference is 2 parts Reload to 1 part ECH2o. This adds more of the Reload properties to the mix.

 

Just thought it would make the engine bay look clean and shiny, just not sure what to use

 

Engine Bay cleaning is a tricky subject. (water/chemical/electrics)
For (hopefully) the best advice I have a couple of questions to start...

Do you have or can you take pictures?

Do you have a lot of dirty grease build up?
Is it is small hard to reach places?

Is it just dirty and needs a good cleaning and dressing?

Shiny...are you talking about plastics and hoses or the painted areas?
Are you wanting a "showroom" new satin or glossy wet look finish?

As a side note: I like Vinylex Protectant for hoses (IIRC it's water-based).
It can be applied in different ways to obtain a matte or shiny/glossy finish.

I have cleaned engine bays many different ways. I prefer dry steam for a deep cleaning.

 

@SouthBoundSteve im going to be installing GTechniq Crystal Serum Light on my tundra next week, how long do you wait before wiping off excess? It says immediately, but I’ve heard others that have used it wait a minute or two. Thanks!!!

 

I’ve noticed the detailing forum has been slow lately. Is it too hot for everyone else, or just me?

 

its been too stinking hot......however, we have a nice cool morning this morning, and tomorrow morning too.....I'll be detailing a Yukon Denali tomorrow....lots of real estate on that one

 

Well I’ve been busy ordering stuff, but I haven’t given anything a good cleaning in a couple of weeks now. With the heat, I can’t even think about it until after 7:00 at night. Now we’re expecting rain for the next week.
My daughter starts back to school on Monday. I’m hoping to do some heavy work on the red Tundra before then. In all this time, it’s never been clayed or Iron-X’d. Seven years worth of who knows what in the paint.

My plan for either tonight or early tomorrow morning is full paint decon, possibly some polishing, trim restoration, etc. There’s also a couple of spots where I did a horrible job experimenting with touch up paint that I hope to alleviate. I ordered this stuff. It’s supposed to be effective for that:

LANGKA 2oz Blob Eliminator

$25 Langka 2oz Blob Eliminator

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BAT622/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rZ-FBbTB9829P

She also spilled some yellow paint on the bed liner that I hope I can get out.

When that’s finished, I’m going to try this out for the first time:

http://www.waxaddict.co.uk/touchless-pour-on-wax

 

Sounds fun. I like tackling vehicles I haven’t done before. I did a Tahoe last year. That thing was nasty. The roof was the hardest part. Not sure if it had ever been cleaned.
My brother in law has a couple of trucks that need some work. If I get the time, I can hopefully get a crack at them.
My truck is driving me crazy lately. With all the heat, I haven’t been able to keep it up to standard.

 

that WaxAddict product looks similar to Sonax Spray and Seal and McKees Hydro Blue

 

I can’t fit anything in my garage. It’s too small. At best, I can pull it in halfway to do a little, then turn it around and wait for the other side to cool off. My driveway runs north and south, so there’s never a point in the day where it’s not in direct sunlight. Seven in the evening is the first point I can even consider it. Doing it in the morning, I’m racing the sun to get it done.

 

Except you just pour it on, not spray it. I’m not sure how it’s going to work. I also have this, which looks similar to those or Opti-seal. Haven’t tried it yet either.

http://www.waxaddict.co.uk/hydroglaze-sray-on-rinse-wax

 

I can fit stuff in my garage. I am trying to get the vehicle tonight.....so I can knock the interior off, and then wash around 0600 tomorrow....into the garage at 0800...and hopefully done by noon

 

It's actually starting to cool down here in CT.
The last week has been in the 80s witb far mess humidity. It's really very nice. July was so hot and humid, which of course is when I did my full exterior detail. Late summer and fall are so nice here. Next year I'll remember this.

 

No relief yet here at all. Pushing 100 every day, humidity is insane. I sweat like crazy going to the mailbox.

 

I am liking this product. Spray on, wipe with a microfiber cloth and a little buff with a dry microfiber cloth. Smooth, mirror like finish.

 

I have a question. Is there a certain amount of paint cure time before you can add sealants or ceramic coatings?
I ask because my truck is finally going into the bodyshop on Tuesday. I figure if the truck is getting all new panels and new paint, might as well get it sealed and ceramic coated, while I am gone for 3months.
Also how long does it take to apply the ceramic coating?