What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yeah..... I need to learn some self control on that end

 

Lol yeah I haven’t fixed it since I put my lift on

 

I had a 40 series long ago and it sounded menacing on streets, but it droned badly on freeways. Probably because I just had it dumped under the cab.

 

Before the 40 series I just had it coming straight out of the resonator right underneath the passenger seat and it was unbearable. So compared to that the 40 series is pretty manageable.

 

Picked up a temporary storage box by Husky from HomeDepot as I'm not ready to spend $500 on the orange Rigid box I want. The Husky box is mainly to store my ION speaker and a few beach supplies. It's pretty sturdy, was relatively cheap ($65) and has three locks--which do not prevent someone from rolling it away and taking time working at the locks with a grinder. So I bought this ratcheting cable lock that I plan on running through the two outer locks. It will also keep the box from sliding around. I might etch my address and number into the box somewhere as well.

$90 Master Lock - Two Python Adjustable Cable Locks Keyed Alike, 1-6ft, 1-20ft, 8413KACBL-620

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00695B8XI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know that a cheap pair of bolt cutters can get at the cable but I'm only trying to stop the casual thief not the determined one--who probably would not go after this anyway. Mainly at the beach and camp site use so should be ok. And I have a locking camper shell on top to make it even more difficult.

 

I think with full piping it should be fine. Having mine exit under the cab was just a dumb idea, but it came that way and was free.

I managed to get a pretty beefy screw in my tire. Thought about pulling it and pushing a plug in but figured I could make it home on streets. Got home, thought I may as well swap to my spare and get it patched proper. Noticed my spare was pretty low, went to pump it up and my emergency compressor wasn't doing it. It seemed to be leaking at the hose head. Got out the bike pump and started pumping, heard hissing. My spare has a cut in the sidewall.

Hopped in the VW and put the boost to work on my way to buy beer. After that pleasant series of events I deserve it.

 

Sway bar end link quick disconnect #2:
My first attempt I tried making a disconnect out of the stock sway bar end link. I had bought a cheap end link off of Amazon to build it with. Well bolting one on to the lower control arm the Allen key at the end of the bolt stripped out well being tightened. After realizing how cheap the part was that I had started with I decided to go a different route. I made new disconnects and have had them on for about a week now. They are working as planned. Disconnection and reconnection is easy as long as the truck is sitting on relatively flat ground.

 

That's pretty brilliant

 

Finally finished the stereo overhaul after installing the front speakers. Sounds amazing, very pleased!

 

I'm gonna pretend I didn't see any of that.

 

What speakers did you go with up front? I "upgraded" to a set of Rockford Fosgate 5 1/4" speakers up front to get rid of my blown JBLs and I am VERY disappointed in their complete lack of any lows.

 

Oil and Liqui Molly came in the mail today. Waiting on the Toy oil filters.

Checked my PCV Valve (newly installed) to see how its operating. Not sure about specifics per spec testing, but a visual test shows a light oil film on the positive and neg sides of valve. Remember, this thing was CLOGGED big time until last weeks valve cover change. The PCV Valve Cover PORT was also clogged with sludge. That drivers side cover was highly carboned up compared to pass side.

I think many of our temp problems on the 1Gens stem from the PCV and the valve cover port becoming clogged not allowing gas/air ventilation. I may start a regular maintenance program of spraying into the valve port (with the PCV valve removed first) a small amount of solvent before oil changes. Also, a quick blast of the PCV valve with some degreaser/throttle body cleaner will help.

 

Rockford Fosgate Prime

$75 R165-S Prime 6.5” 2-Way Component Speaker System

R165-S for the front and Punch P16 for the rear. The primes are a cheapish 6.5” component but sound nice and crisp, good mid and highs. I have the 8” sub for the lows.

 

Swapped out brake and rear turn signal bulbs to led so now every bulb is led.

 

Picked up this bad boy on Amazon. 30 foot hose with a really nice built in gauge and heavy duty chuck. Automatic turn off when not in use. Says it can inflate a set of 35s from 10psi to 40 psi in under 15 minutes. Even arrived a day early! So excited to using this thing.

Only problem so far is it arrived a day early and my wife saw it

 

I just replaced mine too. After doing it I wish I would’ve switched all my lights to led the day I bought it. Those disconnects are pretty nice but be careful stuff like that is how you end up with new toys like tig welders and plasma cutters lol.

 

Damn it Casper! Another thing on my list you beat me too. Go to the corner and stare at my projectors!

 

I’m still on the fence between buying a Millermatic 211 to build bumpers, sliders, skids and a bed rack or buying/custom fab. Knowing me, a welder will lead to a plasma cutter and bender, if not more.

 

I’ve had the bulbs lying around just forgot about them. I am jealous of the projectors and will definitely tackle that project soon. But, if all goes according to plan, I’ll have a new project car arriving on Monday that will take up time and money away from the tundra. Good and bad thing.

 

I've been in that boat for a few years, it's a terribly good bad thing.

 

Tested the vacuum on the PCV valve today with the truck running. Almost lost my thumb with so much suction. Oil plug gaskets came in this morning. Might do the engine flush this weekend with the Liqui Molly.

 

Check the PCV Valve for clogging (which causes gaskets to go bad). Or, just wait till you do the gasket and blast the crap out of the PCV port and clean up the valve. Mine had never been serviced. Such an important part and easily serviceable part that all the major service garages never do (usually).

 

Yup, planning to swap the PCV first. I already have the valve cover gasket kit and vtech gasket with screen for the solenoid, I have new lower arm bushings for her car too. Just need a PCV, also need a new rear motor mount and going to make it a Honda day.

 

What are the chances you want to put together a couple of kits for these and sell them at a reasonable price? I'm guessing more than a few people would be interested.

 

Is that the 400P?

I'm debating between that one or the ARB single compressor which I'd mount under thr hood.

 

Yes sir, $156 shipped after tax. Going to give it a try tomorrow to see how it works. I didn't realize when I bought that it also has a deflator built in, really want to see how that works. Looks to be good quality so far.

 

Did an ol’ change flush and reflush and final refill with Mobil1 Advanced Full Synthetic. This is the 02’ first full synthetic fill. Been running Synthetic Blend oil since about 100k miles. Sitting at 158k now. The Mobil1 doesn’t even smell like ol’.

Toy filters came in today. 5 for $25. Here is the size difference compared to the Mobil1 filter that came as a price package deal with the Ol’. The Mobil1 filter is much heavier than the Toy.

 

Started a fresh thread in General Discussion. Posting this pick here again to show the varnish cleaning after 25 miles with fresh sacrificial Castrol oil. Original flush was with Liqui Moly. This pic is second change with only 25 miles. Keep in mind I’ve changed oil every 4-5k miles since new in 02’.

Observations:
Lower RPM’s at Park (700 from 750), and at Drive with brake on at full stop (500 from 550)
Lower RPM’s at speed
Quieter engine
Castrol intial sacrificial fill the engine was loud and had a tick. Mobil1 quiet.
Dip stick is so clean its hard to read with Mobil1 Full Synthetic.

 

Got started on the front end "refresh" got the 5100s all set up at the 4th notch for a level, and a Toytec diff drop in. Went to replace the LBJs and could not for the life of me get the outer tie rods separated, so that's where I left it for the night. Going to run to O'Reilly in the morning and rent a tie rod puller and give that a shot. I remember having similar issues with my 4Runner when I replaced the lower ball joints on it.

 

A few solid whacks from a 3-4lb hammer should loosen the tie rod.