Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Do you know if Toyo ever issued a TSB for the throw-out bearing on the 1st gen Tundra ? The FJ had a TSB issued in 2010 (#T-SB-0365-10) to replace faulty TO bearings and associated parts which were plagued by repeated failures.

 

Check here.
https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

 

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Thanks anyway but I'm not sure it would show up there. I was wondering about a Toyota Technical Service Bulletin which is more of an internal corporate thing. For example when an FJ would come in with a faulty TO Bearing (a known issue on these at the time), the service manager would consult the appropriate TSB for the parts and procedure to make the repair. I'm looking at a 2006 Tundra with stick shift and am wondering if there was an issue with these TO bearings as well.

 

AC Tundra,
It is a TSB, not a Service Campaign or recall. No gen 1 would not be covered under warranty now so you would have to pay for the TSB. If your clutch release bearing (Toyota speak for throw out bearing), just replace it and the slave cylinder as the TSB outlines

 

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Yes, thanks, I'm familiar with the TSB procedure as I owned an FJ 10 years ago with 6 speed stick and had to have the TO Bearing done twice under warranty following the TSB procedure. So presently I'm looking at a used 2006 Tundra with the stick shift (clean truck w/ well under 100k miles) and am trying to find out if a TSB was ever issued for those vehicles, not because I expect Toyo to honor a warranty, rather because I want to know if those 1st gen Tundras experienced the same faulty bearings issue. The bearing business in the FJ's got kind of messy on a lot of them and personally after 2 dealer fixes plus my own repair using the PDM kit I got kind of disgusted. Three TO bearings in under a 100k miles was a bit much and I sold it. I don't really want to get mixed up in another situation like that one if those Tundras were doing the same thing. So I'm wondering if the T-SB-0365-10 covering 2007 – 2011 FJ Cruiser and 2005 – 2011 Tacoma with manual transmissions were the only Toyo vehicles with TO bearing issues ?

 

Not a clue... but the fuel pump being cooled by fuel is not true

Not that I can recall...the fj tsb was way different, went through like 3 revisions.

 

WOW. I cant believe how many times i've read that the reason why there is so much extra fuel in the tank when you are on E is to cool the pump.

Can you lay any more knowledge on us about it?

 

Me too

 

I think every toyota I've owned has been conservative on the fuel level. It just helps dipshits not get stranded by running themselves out of gas.

 

This^

The way the fuel pump is mounted it actually sits maybe an inch off he bottom. The pick up sock is damn near at the bottom. Newer trucks are all encapsulated in a plastic module. But again pump isn't on the very bottom, the pickup is

 

Question, I want to do a drain and refil of the p/s reservoir every oil change, what’s the best fluid to use on the power steering system? 2018 cm

 

That is a gigantic waste of time and money... but it's your truck. At the dealer we use pennzoil. In my offroad rig I use Lucas oil, pricy tho

 

Would you happen to know why I get a pic of white smoke when I start the truck. It only happens if the truck had been sitting between 2-12 hours on I initial start. I’ve changed the PVC valve and done a dealer oil flush. The truck is 2015 5.7 with 70k miles. Thank you.

 

Lucas atf dex 3?

 

I have the stock air flow box, but installed the TRD Airflow Accelerator along with an aFe Power Magnum dry filter. My question is this, I was thinking about getting a filter minder and wanted to know what would work best with my setup? Thx

 

1) How much propeller movement is ‘normal’ inside a carrier bearing bushing? In other words, how much movement should/does the shaft have inside the rubber bushing? Mine has about 1/4” up movement if I go under and push it up. Rubber looks good (original).

2) Also, I successfully greased all the zerks on the rear propeller. Using the same gun/tip, was UNABLE to grease the 4WD propeller zerks. The tip fit (barely as its tight), but the grease did not pump into zerks. The grease oozed off and around zerk. What trick do you use to grease these 4WD propellers?

3) Slight leaking at valve covers back corners. I’ve tightened the cover bolts a few times over the years as they become loose from contraction/expansion. What mileages are you seeing the valve cover gaskets needing to be replaced? And what other things you recommend while ‘around there’?

Thank you for your responses, sir.

2002 Tundra SR5 AC 4WD
157k miles
No mods

 

I am at a loss I purchased my tundra about 6 months ago and have had issues since I bought it. I just took it today to another mechanic and told me I am intermittently throwing misfires on almost all cylinders and no codes are being thrown or pending. If I accelerate heavily over 4500 rpm it feels as though a rev limiter is being hit. I changed out the spark plugs my truck has 85000 miles on it. It is 5.7 flex fuel. Please need help I love this truck just running into a wall at this point in fixing.

 

White smoke? That's typically coolant burning... sure it's not blue ish grey? Flex fuel?

I'm pretty sure it says p/s fluid in the title

Just check the air filter e ery oil change?:shrug:

Kind of all over the place... different for each vehicle. U should replace you spark plug tube seals and reseal the half moons while u do the vcg's. Also pcv PCv valve

Bring it to a dealer. We are trained much more then independents. I'd be watching my air in and air out when its happening... also would be recording the misfires to really see which cylinders are showing.

 

Thanks bud. Will be planning this repair into the future budget. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Its greatly appreciated.

 

I will start by saying I have no mechanical experience, I had to google what UCA meant when I first joined the site, so please bear with me! Again, I will likely call parts by the wrong name but I would like your opinion. Had a leveling kit installed in December and had no problems until now. The other day I was in a parking lot and had to slam on the brakes to which it made an awful sound. Since then I would intermittently hear a loud popping sound coming from the front end. I took it to a local Toyota dealer where they told me whoever installed the leveling kit may have not torqued a bolt enough cause it was now loose. I THINK they said the bolt on the lower control arm OR lower part of control arm? Something about a cam being shifted out of position then falls back into place? They described 2-3 little metal tabs holding the cam in place. They said what likely happened was the bolt came loose and then when I slammed on the brakes it bent the metal tabs flat. If you understand what I’m saying do you think the guys who installed my leveling kit could tackle this? They agreed it’s their fault since they were the last people to touch that particular bolt. They said their mechanic could either re bend the tabs or order new ones from Toyota and weld them on. Whatcha think? Does this make sense? What is your advice?

 

Haha you did great because i know exactly what you are talking about. However they are telling you some misinformed info. The tabs cannot be bought from toyota. Once they are bent, the cam bolt and eccentric needs to be removed and the tab bent back vertical. Now that the tab is back vertical, they need to weld behind it so it cannot bend again. Alot of people weld behind the tabs before this happens to prevent it offroad. Total chaos makes a kit for an even beefier repair for vehicles that are best on heavily. I bend and weld behind tabs all the time.

 

Perfect. The mechanic was back in the shop today and did bend the tabs back. I will ask if they welded behind them for added support. Also the cam bolt was bent so they had to order another one. Should be all fixed up tomorrow! Thanks for your time!

 

Bought a used topper for my 08 crewmax and I'm trying to hookup third brake light, topper dome light, and I would like to add a dc outlet inside the topper as well. Searched the site but can't seem to find info on where I should hook into. Read somewhere I shouldn't just splice into the brake light wire. When looking under the truck bed I found this connector on the passenger side that seems to go to nowhere (four wires with a capped connector-what is it for?). I've found youtube videos online for other trucks that have a wire under the bed for a brake light connection. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Why would u tap into a brake circuit for a auxiliary outlet?

 

Any where on the site where there are wiring diagrams for the gen 2 Tundra? If I'm running the hot wire back from the battery what gauge wire should I use, same with the trigger wire? I've only replaced existing relays on my vehicles, are they pretty standard or voltage specific? The hot power source is for DC outlets primarily for usb chargers and enough power for the dome-light and some additional interior led lighting. Eventually I would like to add a 2nd battery charged by the alternator (RV type setup) to keep from draining my primary battery while camping from the topper. I think I need a course on DC power.

 

I've spent a couple of hours this weekend studying info on relays and DC wiring. Thanks, this information is very helpful and I really appreciate it!

 

Anyone know if coachbuilder 3 shackles and bilstein 6112 on top setting ends up with the truck on a rake? Considering this with 5100's on the back and some firestone airbags for when I have to haul heavy loads. If theres a better place to post this question please let me know

 

I would like to revisit a question I asked in February about the safety sense sensor in the emblem. I have been watching the threads and FB to see who would put a grill guard on their tundra and have problems or success installing a “ranch hand bumper with grill guard”. Has they’re been any bulitens from Toyota about grills gaurds, fishing rod holders, or plows? I’m asking because I work shift work and get called in late at night and leave early in the morning and I would like to pull the trigger on some extra protection from deer and other drivers since winter will be here before we know it.

 

As far as I know, nothing should be Installed that blocks the sensors field of view.

 

Any tips for replacing the transfer case input seal in a 2000 4.7? Mine is leaking, looks like getting the front drive shaft out of the way might be a pain because its so tight with the exhaust and cross member.