MY 04 TUNDRA 4WD

Very nice truck you got there. How does the top sound when driving down the highway? Noisy, air leaks, cold in winter?
I like the exhaust exit location.

 

Looks like a fun toy. Definitely has front and rear glass. Get some snaps of the suspension. Looks like it still has leaf springs with inverted shackles.

Whoever built the cage definitely got creative. I never understood those that cut off the roof when you can just build a cage on pontoons or offset frame mounts and drop the cage down and 360 weld everything. Watch your noggin on the b-pillar gusset tube too. Without a brain bucket, would be a bad day in an accident.

 

@FernsFinal, let me know if you would like some education on roll cages. By no means would I be trying to offend you or your truck. Just some constructive criticism with the intent of driver and passenger safety. Feel free to tell me to piss off as well. I won't take offense and will leave things as is.

 

See various color coordinated Skittles above.

Dead tubes. I got tired of drawing red circles, but there's a lot more in this cage. A "T" junction is what we call a dead tube in the industry. One tube dead ends into another. These should be avoided as much as possible. When loaded, the dead tube will bend the other tube. You can tie other tubes to the node to avoid the dead tube as well. The exception to this are tube corner gussets. Welding a strait 6"-8" tube diagonally in a corner of a junction...making a triangle or capital A. Plate corner gussets are completely acceptable as for corners as well.

For the life of me I have no idea wtf is going on here. The fabricator clearly has a bender, but here the tubes look like miter joints and butt welds. You can't sleeve a miter joint, and the B pillar is probably the most important tube in a cage for saving your ass in a rollover. Any tube splices should be beveled, sleeved, 360 welded, and rosette welded. If this is a miter joint, this would fail any cage inspection for a sanctioned event.

I'm at a loss on this one as to what the fabricator was trying to do. There is so much wrong with these tubes. Why this wasn't a strait tube spanning the two b-pillar tubes about 10 inches lower is beyond me. Not only that, having the tube lower would give you a place for seatbelt harnesses. In addition, when building a cage you want to strive for making triangles, not some artsy fartsy curves. Bends are your enemy. A strait tube is ALWAYS stronger than a bent tube. And where bends are required, bends should never be unsupported or mid-span. At the apex, at least one other tube and gusset should be placed unless there are several tubes that meet at the same supporting node.

One of the most creative load paths I've seen. The two circled tubes should have been a little longer and welded as a single node meeting the vertical center support tube and the roof tube that goes to the front of the cab. Note the zig zag line I drew. That would be the load path with an impact. Instead of being strait and dispersing to the rest of the tubes equally, you're going to load the roof tube spanning the b-pillar.

These are absolute death tubes. There is no reason to have a bend in what appears to be an attempt of a corner gusset. Nor is there any reason to have it that long. Because it's bent and hanging right by your head, even a mild fender bender with no helmet is going to leave you comatose.

This is just based on the one photo I looked at. Since I don't see a windshield v-bar, I can only assume that the roof bar going forward is a dead tube as well. Which in the event of a hard rollover, the A-pillar will likely collapse. I also see no C-pillar vertical or diagonal support tubes at all. Just like the a-pillar, rear passengers would have a bad day in a roll. I also don't see any cab to cage plating. Which means the body will flex independently of the cage unless the body mounts were swapped out to solid mounts. Even then, the sheet metal at the top of the cab will flex. Obviously I can only see some of your cage, but there are other things to take into consideration. No tube should terminate to sheet metal such as the floor, firewall, or rear of the cab. Pillars should either pass through the floor and welded to plated frame, or down to pontoon tubes or plated mounts that come off the frame. You can also do sandwich plates between sheet metal and use 4 large grade 8 bolts to attach them. But it's easier (and stronger) to just drill a hole and go strait to the frame.

See below for an example of an overbuilt cage, but shows some good examples of the points I mentioned above. Honestly, this cage has way more tubes and supports than it needs for the size of the truck. But it's definitely a well designed cage. There are those that say that any cage is better than no cage at all. This is simply not true. Unsupported tubes become weapons that can impale or bludgeon passengers. As nice as your truck looks to drive from the outside, if offered a ride, I would gracefully decline going for a ride in it, even a trip to the store. Certainly looks there's some fun to be had, but I'd suggest a brain bucket because of those death tubes. Good luck man.

 

@FernsFinal bummer on the wheels not being the offset you want.
FYI, the spacers you got are lug centric. You should really consider purchasing HUB centric spacers. Spidertrax, Bora, and AllPro all make hub centric wheels spacers for the 6x5.5 bolt pattern with toyota hubs. With lug centric, you loose the hub mounting surface area and centering and all the leverage rests on the skinny M12x1.5 studs. I encourage you to do some googling around on wheel spacers and what happens with the extra leverage.