Sound matting worth it?

So the foam under the seats can just be pulled out. Nice to see what's going in under the seats. Foam isn't thick at all.

 

Put down cld tiles, then some of the duct insulation, then reflectix over that. The reflectix is for heat reflection but also does help with sound somewhat. Then the styrofoam pieces went back in over what I installed. They went in no problem. The carpet also went down ok. Only fitment issue was the trim panels. They took some work to get back in because of all the extra layers.

 

So I have recently finished my truck as well. After a lot of research in this forum (thank you Pudge) and elsewhere, here's what I did. All 4 doors with 70mil CLD (outer and inner panels in full and well as some CLD on the inside of the door plastic panels ) plus some floor liner foam on top of that (I bought a roll of TrafficMaster Floor Muffler at Home Depot, it's the red stuff, costs about $70 for the roll, it has a fairly high STC rating). Then I did the floor with CLD in full, then the red underlayment, and MLV on top. I filled all possible areas with foam (B and C pillars and some spaces in the floor). Every plastic trim piece that I removed got some CLD on the inside of it. I did the back wall the same as the floor. Let me tell you, the MLV really works. It's a pain to secure it vertically as it's very heavy, but it is the best sound proofing material.

Now, for some results. Leading up to this project, I had done numerous sound level tests under different driving conditions. My other car is a 2016 Lexus GX 460. Having this vehicle to compare with gave me good info.
My tundra noise level at 1800 RPM 70MPH was about 74DB (I do have a 7/8" BA muffler though, 2+” lift, 35” KO2 tires, and bully dog performance tune, keep that in mind!). At 30MPH, 2000RPM, I averaged about 68DB. My Lexus, would be at 69DB and 61DB, respectively. After sound proofing, my Tundra is now at 68-69DB and 62DB, respectively. If I coast, then the Tundra goes down to 64DB and 60DB, respectively. DB is exponential, keep that in mind as well. So, does it work? absolutely! It takes a lot of work, but it's worth it when you've been spoiled by the quiet interior of a Lexus.

Whoever is thinking of this, I recommend buying MLV and using foam in every space you can. Spend the money on the materials if you're doing all the labor anyway.

 

Here's the underlayment I used : https://www.homedepot.com/p/FloorMu...ardwood-and-Laminate-Floors-0264049/204077418

 

What Pudge says about the doors feeling heavier and tighter is true. The truck as a whole sounds very put together and tight.

 

Put down a layer of CCF over the factory foam and brackets then a layer of MLV.

Then got the carpet and sub and seats back in. Looks me a good part of the day to do all this. Hopefully it quiets the cab down a bit.





Glued together ccf and mvl pieces for back panel and attached with heavy duty velcro and stuck it to the back wall. Then I put the factory sound deadening piece back on.

 

All cleaned up and done. I also did the passenger foot well area but didn't take pics. Now all I have left is front floor. I will need to buy more MLV though. I'm almost out and thought I had enough for the project

 

Inquiring minds wants to know what beer that is?!?

 

A pint of Broadbrook brewing flagship ale. Semi local and pretty good too.

 

Nice! drinking local is always good!

 

I think I'll have another

 

Very happy with how the back area worked out. It made a significant on exhaust and road noise. I'd say in almost back to stock cabin noise since doing this, I say stock because I added a dirty deed 6" before I did any sound deadening. It may be quieter than it was stock, but who knows I'm just going off what my ears tell me. I still have to do the front floors, which is now where I hear the most noise coming from, that and the firewall. I'm not ripping my dash apart to tackle the firewall though. Not worth it.

 

Just ordered another 50sq feet of MLV. Best pricing on it is acoustimat.com.
I originally got 50sqft thinking it would be enough. I was wrong, that did front doors, back wall and back floor. Still need to do rear doors and front floor. If you get this for your truck plan on 100sqft

 

yes

 

Going to get working on this again on this soon. Daughter is back in school and the weather should start cooling down. I need to do the back doors and the floor from the front firewall back to the rear seat hump. I will probably do the doors first, and replace my interior door handles with black ones I just ordered while I'm at it. Same process for read doors as front, CLD tiles here and there, reflectix, CCF and MLV. I also need to replace door handles in the front too, that'll be a good opportunity to see how the work I did on the front doors is holding up.
For the floor I plan to use some CLD tiles, reflectix for heat, CCF and 2 layers of MLV because i want to quiet down the exhaust and road noise.
Not sure how far up I can go on the firewall without removing dash (which I WILL NOT do). But I'll try to get up as far as I can to cut down on engine noise. My hood has a sound mat installed from the factory, but maybe I can add something there as well. Not sure if engine bay firewall is an option for some material, probably not though.
Then theres the roof. Some day I really hope I can get to it but I know that's a huge undertaking.
I have a few other projects going on as well but also some more free time with school starting again.

 

According to your website, the cost of the kit for 3rd gen CM is $708, and the total weight added to the truck is 112lbs. Will that kill the droning sound from the exhaust, wind noise, tires, and engine noise as well? It sounds great to me if it can kill the noises from the items aforementioned.

 

The MLV is what does the majority of the sound blocking, probably 90%

 

I might try to to do one or both of the rear doors tomorrow. Supposed to be hotter than hell out there but need to get this done before it too cold.

I think the floor will be the biggest difference other than the back wall. The back wall mad wa huge difference. The floor I think I can get 2 layers of MLV. Should help drown out the exhaust noise I have since i went with a 6" BAmuffler. It's fine and there's not much drone, but for longer trips quieter will be nice

 

anyone ever try this before?

https://www.lizardskin.com/sound-control-insulation.html

 

I did the rear doors today. Same process as the front doors. CLD tiles in some areas, some reflectix to the door skin, then hung CCF and MLV on the door and got the panel back on. Went pretty smoothly. didnt take any pics because it was just too damn hot. I also cut a piece of MLV the size of the full coverage rear floor mat and put that under the mat. All in all its definitely a little bit quieter now than it was this morning.
Cant wait to do the floor and hear that difference.

 

@Pudge, you really think soundskins would have given you the same sound deadening results as the MLV? Tackling this soon. Not too worried about money but more so time and performance of products.

Thanks!

 

I think the soundskin has its place in controlling noises, but it doesnt have much mass. Mass is the key to drowning out road and ambient noise. So no I don't think it would be as effective. The install is easier and faster but the results won't be the same, the question is, is it worth the trade off? I think in some areas, like the roof something like soundskin makes sense. But for floors and walls and doors, properly layered materials, including MLV is the way to go.

 

Damn Pudge! You are on a mission!

Now im jealous... Damnit! Im gonna have to journey your way one day and ride shotgun and see what im missing.

Good job Pudge.

Not sure if im confusing that one with Second Skin or not, but whichever one it was it did recieved high praise from a few from the car audio forums.

Being a paint on type of product the application was its major downside. Not really sure if it was on par with the peel n stick stuff or better. That said, i believe the actual brand that coined the CLD tiles name is still the current over all best performer. They have a site called "sound deadener show down". Expensive but full coverage is not necessary, so they claim.

Id use it if there werent so many other quality brands that are easier on the prices.

 

You can make your own CLD tiles with butyl rubber membrane and foil tape. Better cost. And, just copy that pattern of install provided on sound deadeners show down site. Made my stereo sounds come to life!

 

What thickness are you using?

 

Always wondered how well this stuff would work. I Think my body panels rattle more now after removing them to install this stuff then they did before! Fooook.

 

I'm using the 1lb/ft thickness. I'd say it's about 1/4" thick, I also went with 1/4" closed cell foam as a decoupler.

 

That is where I got most of my info and knowledge and ideas from.
There are a tom of products out there. You can source each cheaply if you search around the web. Each product has its purpose, it's just that you need a combo of many to do it right and complete.

 

Aint that the truth. You start out thinking some Dynamat and you got everything covered...
Then you learn about the rest. Lol

 

Just a reminder (for readers) that you can make your own sound mat with butyl peel and stick for windows/doors and add some HVAC foil tape on top. Both items can be puchased from big box. Costs less and achieves same result.

And yes, it makes your existing sound system sound better. Makes an average system sound above average. Spicy!