Your Lifted Tundra's - 3.5" Rough Country

I am looking at getting the rough country 3.5" lift on my 16 crewmax. Can anyone post up some pics of their rigs with this lift or any 3.5" lift. I want to see real world examples not the marketing pics on rough country's or anyone elses site.

Edit - Or school me on a better lift. Just don't want to spend 1000.00 on the lift if possible. Truck isn't my daily driver. Only probably put 100-200 miles on it each month, maybe....I like the 549.00 price point is the reason I keep going back to that lift.

Thanks in advance.

 

Sorry 6" lift inch here came that way bought used

 

Some options
https://www.tundras.com/threads/3rd-gen-3-1-lift-pics-anyone.2760/

 

Awesome thanks for sharing that link. Thats exactly what I am looking for.

 

I personally have the low range off-road 3/1...pics on my build page.

 

Great looking truck!

 

Thanks!

 

I am sitting at about 3.25" in the front, 1" in the rear. ADS shocks with 700 lb springs up front. And you won't spend $1000. It'll be more like $3700 (and that is if you install it yourself).

Although it is hard to spend that coin, but it is well worth it IMO.

 

I’m in the same boat! I currently have the 3 inch leveling kit by RC and the shop will buy it back if I upgrade to the 3.5 in bolt on lift kit. My plan is to upgrade suspension next year but in the meantime......do I add the front shims to give me 3 inches in the front and add a 1 inch block in back or sell back the leveling kit and go with the 3.5 in bolt on kit???? This is the kit http://www.roughcountry.com/toyota-suspension-lift-kit-76720.html

 

I put on the tuff country 4". I love it. Perfect lift. Easy bolt on and great price point. Comes with upper control arms to get full alignment specs back.

https://www.suspensionconnection.com/54070-tundra-lift.html

 

Great looking truck Toyo. Any cutting with that lift. Guessing no being “bolt on”

 

Thanks! No cutting other than minor trimming of the front bumper to clear 35's. There are some good videos on YouTube to show how and where to trim to keep it looking factory. Lift is straight forward as far as install. Fully bolt on. I did not want to void factory warranty by cutting the cross member or frame like you have to with the 6".

 

Welcome from NC!

 

I hadn't been able to find much information on the 3.5" rough country lift, but I tried it anyway. Most of the work was done myself except for the upper control arms. Those are a PITA. I am still on my old 275s but I have 35x12.5R18 and motometal +18mm rims going on soon.

 

Notes on the lift: Uppers required me to get a shop to do it. Driver's side is very tight to get the bolt in and out and I didn't have the patience, correct tools, nor energy to do it myself. I put it back together with the stock uppers for a couple days.

Directions suck. Some areas were good, but there is a lot left for you to figure out. I know on the front differential I got the passenger spacer in easy, the driver's side required me to loosen the bolts on the bracket to the differential to line it up. The rear was very easy. I had some missing nuts for the brake line brackets but they were cheap and easy to acquire. Have extra 1/2" drive ratchets. I broke a 24" craftsman break over, I also sheared another 1/2" ratchet on different parts just loosening nuts.

I ended up having to use strut compressors on the springs after I got the top in place. Loosening the cam bolts dropped the lowers but I was about 1/2" shy of fitting them in there.

I ordered Billstein 5100 shocks for the front thinking they would have a 0" setting as advertised but don't waste your time, for the Tundra the lowest setting is .8" so they had to be returned. I went with KYB Excel G

Biggest complaint is the rear shocks don't come with boots. Overall I'm happy so far and have been driving for 2 days on it. Do not take it to a chain store for alignment. Take it to a shop that does lifted trucks. Camber and Caster are adjusted by the cam bolts and most don't understand how to do that. My toe and camber is in spec, my Caster is 5.3 on the driver and 6.2 on passenger and the shop couldn't get them closer. I will be going to another shop to get that fixed.

 

Haha point taken. I just have a hard time spending a ton of cash on it when it sits 90% of the time. I’m after a better look but that’s about all.

 

I am with you. Only spend what is needed for the intended purpose. Too many mall crawlers with $10,000 suspension/wheel packages out there. LOL.

 

Amen! To each their own but if you want the extra ground clearance or just for appearance sake and you don't plan on doing any heavy duty off-roading, RC is a good option. No sense in spending money on a coil over or other higher end options if you aren't going to use them properly.

 

Yeah, the only off roading my truck does is during hunting season and most of the roads are farm or logging roads.

I love the kids around town that have the 10,000 set ups on their rigs and they never leave the pavement.

 

Exactly my thought. If I was truly offroading, I would definitely spend more money on a quality lift, but short of the occasional muddy cook off sites or back roads, that is all mine sees. RC is riding smooth, and looks great. The extra $$ wouldn't benefit me at all.

 

3"/2" Readylift.

 

Holy crap, is that an actual genuine VECTOR?

 

So I would just like to give you my 2 cents. Spend the extra cash. I had the 3/1 leveling kit from rough country. When I had my suspension installed they pulled me to the side and asked what kind of lift it was.. said it was the sketchiest lift they had ever seen. Plastic rear blocks and all... I will never go the cheap route again. Even if it's just a couple hundred miles a week.. wait.. save.. and get what you want. Something dependable.

 

The 3.5" lift he is considering is not plastic in any way. This is not the cheap 3/1. This one comes with steel blocks, upper control arms, rear shocks and all. The only plastic is the spacers for the front differential mounts. I have been running about 1k miles so far and I love it. Only issue for me is get the coachbuilder carrier bearing kit because you do get a slight vibration from 10-20mph due to the new drive line angles.

 

I wish rough country would let you swap the 3" lift struts in that kit instead of spacers. If my truck didn't have many miles, I would for sure go that route. When I have to do anything else to mine, my truck will have quite a few miles on the factory shocks, and I want to replace them all. I don't want to replace rear shocks to compensate for a lift, and then put another spacer back on the front with the old shocks.

 

I had 145k miles on mine when I did it. I did keep the old springs, but I replaced the shocks. The ride is nice. You can however buy strut assemblies from another brand to install and leave out the spacers. Might as well buy a more expensive kit at that point though. I don't know how wore out your springs are, but the KYB shocks with the springs actually ride nice. But my truck was so ready for new shocks, anything would have felt better.

 

My stock ones have 136k on them now, and I'll probably keep them on at least through this new set of tires I just got, unless they start leaking. I had thought about going that route with buying different struts for them, but figured at that point I would almost be at the same price as the Eibach Coilover kit.

 

Are the 35’s 12.5 or 11.5?