Updated with Coach Shackles review

I'm thinking now that not only will the dreaded bed bounce go away, but the ride should be better on wash board roads and the like. After seeing CB's side by side pics of our stock bushings vs his?? Obvious difference. Even an old "Skeptical Dog" like myself "gets it" occasionally. By the way , I read a lot, love this mag: this too>>>>.....

 

Yeah, I know, an old dog can still learn something. Sheesh (Is too late to delete this???)

 

Lol, I learn the hard way, but I can say I learn. That's all we got

 

I need to see your CB shackle set up "up close". I have a AAL but want some "rake", especially for when I'm towing or for when the bed is loaded down. You show me yours and I'll show you mine. (waiting for sarcastic member comments now...1,2,3)

 

I'm sure we could meet up some day, you are close, I live near dia.

 

I live near Colfax and Potomac. Our lab is near Flying J's on Airport/32nd. Prefer a warm day. apparently will be in the 80's next week, (after it snows the day before.. )

 

Don't get caught for indecent exposure!

 

So heres what I have for you. I have a 2016 Crew Max SR5 with a 3/1 Pro Comp level kit. I installed the shackles the hard way and it took some time. remove the rear tires and do both shackles at the same time to save a lot of time.

I test drove my truck in the usual headache area of I76 in Colorado and experienced no change in the bed bounce. The truck actually felt stiffer but I'm not sure if it was my disappointment pointing out every bump along the drive home. From my personal findings I do not recommend these shackles for the purpose of removing bed bounce. The shackles are well built and beefy and far better than stock. But it does not create a better ride that I was told I would receive. I will most likely remove them and see if CS will take them back and I will try to come up with another route. Sorry for the news but this is what I found. I was really wanting this to work.

 

There may not be instructions but the box does include a phone number for @Coachbuilder1 ...With patience and a simple phone call to David, he talked me through every step and also pointed me toward a youtube video that showed every step in detail. In the video it's highly recommended to take the rear tires off, while holding the truck up with jackstands on the frame to the rear of the cab. Using a jack on the pumpkin to slowly lift or lower it, made aligning the bolts super easy. My biggest problem was renting a ball joint press that didn't include all the right fittings...

Also if you're trying to eliminate bed bounce, your first problem is the massive overload leaf in the leaf packs....second would be the procomp shocks.........

 

Yeah the first thing I would do is remove the Pro comp leveling kit your ride would be much better with a quality lift.

 

One of the main reasons i went with the .625 ones

 

Hey Shane, one thing I noticed in your Post #24, last picture, old shackles. The bushings shown are the upper (or frame) bushings.
I hope you re-installed them. The ones that need to be replaced with the CB's are the lower bushings in the spring eyelet.
Please don't take this as an insult. I'm no Master Technician, either.
I simply saw that your "old" shackles/bushings looked different than the ones sitting on my bench.

Best Regards,

 

So why is it that people replace the stock shackle with a longer shackle and don't have bed bounce anymore?

Could you be confusing a rougher ride with what a lot of tundra owners get called bed bounce?

 

I was thinking the same thing but I haven't pulled mine apart but I didn't think they were a two peice design in the leaf.

 

or..... You spent 2 grand on suspension and still have bed bounce. What's another couple hundred to put it to the test yourself? Not that I wouldn't spend some bucks on good suspension too. I agree that there is a lot to your statement when it comes to spending money on something that doesn't work out like you want and not wanting to admit it. But get real, it's only a couple hundred dollars. Don't you think someone, somewhere would at least say it didn't fix my problem?

I've got zero bed bounce man. And still have the lame stock rear shocks. The polyurethane bushings are what I think made the difference.

Anyway, I guess since you haven't tried the shackles or bushings on your truck, its all just speculation on your end.

 

I can look into it. The bushings in the leaf eyelet did not want to budge. I assumed the bushings went in the top since that was a perfect fit. They were the exact same size as the stock ones I replaced. I will contact CB and get some more input. I want this to work but I am going to be honest with what I find no matter how much money or how reputable the vendor is. I doesn't do you guys any good with me promoting something so I dont look like an idiot and then you all waste money thinking its the greatest. I hope they are installed wrong and theres still a chance. This is why I wish they came with a simple sheet of instructions........

 

Shane, here's a link to a post (scroll to #85) by David Ekstrom:

http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-suspension-talk/105814-coachbuilder-2-shackles-6.html

The spring eyelet bushings need some firepower to remove. I used an OTC 464, but had a ball joint press kit on hand, as well:

$88 OTC 464 2-Ton 'GripLock' External and Internal Puller

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-464-2-Ton-Griplock-Puller/dp/B004CGUAHG

I agree, David should provide instructions. I spent many hours searching/reading forum threads before I ever rolled the jack under the truck.

 

if you didn't put the bushings in the spring, you did the install wrong. You may have to rent a tool to get the factory bushing out of the spring. It wasn't easy.

 

Glad to hear your install came together for you
The upper frame rail bushings you have installed on the factory shackles in the pic should remain in the frame rails and are the only polyurethane bushings on the entire truck installed from the factory.

Our poly bushing kit will need to be installed in the rear leaf spring eyelets, using a ball joint press tool (rented from advanced auto or auto zone) this can be done with the leafs still on the truck and then reinstall the factory poly bushings back up into the frame rails.

 

We tested only our Coachbuilder shackles compared to shackle and poly bushings installed together and were surprised at how only using the shackles made a very noticeable difference.
The length and design of the factory shackles not only allow side to side sway and distortion in the rear suspension but don't allow adequate pivot. I ran only our shackles on my own tundra for about 18 months before designing the new poly bushings. I knew they was still room for improvement and found it with this combination.

 

Turbo whatever man. You are delusional, negative and love your opinions, so I'll just leave it to you. I could care less what you know about any problem. Enjoy your day.

 

I'm always happy to help and definitely encourage a quick call if you're ever in a bind with installation or have question on products.

The upper factory bushings in the frame rails are almost 1" wider than the leaf spring bushings and will not allow the top portion of the shackles to pivot if the narrower bushings are installed. especially after torquing the upper bolts to 75 ft. lbs. its forcing the shackles up against the metal collar in the frame rails and holding them in place. I can see why your test drive felt stiffer than before.

I apologize for not including a install guide in with your items, We normally include them to our vendors and dealerships as a quick reference guide but found most forum guys prefer the youtube route. Please feel free to call anytime and will gladly go over any questions in detail with you.


*** Coachbuilder Shackles and poly bushings install guide ***


Carrier bearing drop kit: The 2 billet spacers labeled carrier bearing drop kit will install between the frame support and the top side of the carrier bearing (located at the center of the rear driveline.)

OE bolts are plenty long and will be reused. torque spec is 25 ft lbs.



Coachbuilder shackles. and poly bushing: ** TIP, remove the rear lower shock bolts before starting the installation of the shackles along with the spare tire **

With the truck up in the air and frame supported, lower rear axle until there is no load on the rear leafs (full droop) keep support or floor jack in place.. remove OE nuts on the OE shackles and slide shackles out from the frame rail and leaf packs. It may take a pry bar or hammer to get the shackles to slide out of position.



** Using a ball joint press tool remove the OE rubber bushings located in the rear leaf spring eyelets. (rubber bushings love to fight you until they pop loose) clean eyelets out and apply grease supplied in poly bushing kit to all outer surfaces of poly bushings and new steel center sleeves. any grease left over apply use it on the outer shoulder of the bushings where the shackles mate up to the bushings.



** Grease the 4 bolts in the shackle hardware kit with supplied grease before installing new shackles. you can use your floor jack to raise or lower rear axle in order to align the bolts into the shackles and frame rails. snug nuts up but do not torque until there is weight on the rear suspension. after the truck is back down on the ground torque to 75 ft lbs and reinstall your spare tire and lower rear shock bolts.

David
Ekstrom Design llc.
801..635..4872