Rear axle out of alignment?

I'm at a shop getting the front aligned and they brought be back to show me the rear is actually slightly out of whack, likely causing some of my gripes with the front. Anyone ever seen this and can it be fixed? My guess is maybe loosening one side of the axles ubolts and and nudging the entire thing forward or backwards. 2017 Tundra, 17k miles.

Thanks!
Jim

 

Well, they are good to identify it, but they said they can't change it at the moment, I'd have to leave it. They are going to compensate with the front and I suppose I'll take it up with the dealer. That a warranty elligible fix?

Thanks!
Jim

 

I have this issue after replacing my leaf packs. I've corrected it only to have it move back, out of whack again. I need to adjust it one more time but I'm feel I should replace my U-bolts when I do. I don't like the way they sound when I tighten 'em. They don't feel smooth when I tighten them.

 

No accident, and I don't remember and major curb hits, but maybe something soft coming out of a parking spot at the store.

Alignment is done but they admitted they had trouble getting it to drive completely straight while keeping front in spec. Any reason I can't just jack up the rear this weekend, loosen the 4 nuts on the axle u bolts, and give it a small whack?

 

Are you able to view the image I posted? It appears to me that the right side would need to be pushed forward a bit.

Both left and right rear wheels have a slight right angle, .30 and .15.

 

No reason why you can't do it. The alignment place quoted me $700 to adjust it. I don't my doctor charges that much?

 

Ignore the back, it will always be out. Even if you loosen u bolts(don’t recommend, u bolts are 1 and done), adjust, it will end up right where it was in about 200 miles.

Your rear camber is out, no way to adjust. Loosening/adjusting rear end has no effect on camber. The toe is fine.

 

Dang. I was hoping I could straighten out my rear. But, I have tried and like you said, it went right back.

 

Bummer. My issue is with my front in spec, if I hold my steering wheel dead straight, I drift slightly left. Its slight, but enough to bug me.

 

No bummer. Take it back and tell them slight left pull. They can adjust your caster split to compensate.

 

Here is where its at now. What would I be requesting they change? Unfortunately - it seems like they are very stuck on the "specs from the system".

My symptom is when holding the wheel dead straight, the truck turns slightly left. I have to hold the wheel a few degrees to the right for a perfect straight line.

 

Caster needs split side to side, your vehicle pulls toward the side with less caster. So instead of 2.7 on both sides, 2.8 on the left, 2.6 on the right. Tech needs to adjust and drive, adjust drive again as needed. If they aren’t doing that, find a shop that does. Otherwise it is a crap shoot, every truck is different. Additionally, and this is my preference, camber should be even side to side, toe as low as possible.

 

Mostly because the threads are rolled instead of cut on most u bolts. We use cut nuts on rolled u bolts so it deforms the thread when torqued by design. They are cheap, not worth it imo. I had some work done at a spring shop a few years back, they even made the u bolts in front of me. Learned a lot.

*TJ beat me*

 

Otherwise, numbers look ok? I was pretty impressed with them, just don't like the left tendency. I guess Ill just say it still pulls left with the wheel straight at highway speed - please add .1-.2 to the left caster, and remove .1-.2 from the right caster.

Thanks,
Jim

 

I thought I saw a recent Tacoma video with bad U bolts

 

Are you suggesting that I should replace before T2S? LOL

 

Yes, I would run minimum toe personally. It is impossible to say how much of a caster split to correct. Between .1 to .5 total split, probably start at .2. Just be aware, splitting caster, camber etc. in an alignment is normal, but completely lost on most alignment techs. I run a .5 caster split with bigger tires, can let go of the wheel and it stays dead straight. Your truck can drive straight, your shop should want it too as well.

 

Great info! Searching for new bolts I found Wheelers. They're grade 5. I'm surprised they're not grade 8. Does 5 sound about right to you? And, @Vizsla . Thank you both for todays seminar.

 

Your good. U bolts need to flex without breaking. Grade 8 does not do that very well.

 

Thank You.

 

They are going to get me back in tomorrow, but are a bit reluctant about splitting the numbers. "We will make the adjustments you request, but if it doesn't work out we can't spend hours playing with it without extra cost." I get it - a $70 alignment cant stay on the lift for 4 hours... so hopefully it works out. My left drift is pretty slight. So I am going to do as you recommended... "instead of 2.7 on both sides, 2.8 on the left, 2.6 on the right."

Hopefully that takes me most of the way there.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

Bump

trying to get some answers on my rear specs

So I think I have an idea on the numbers I need for the front. The rear is my concern…

Recently had icon suspension installed (front and rear) and it was driving pretty bad. Took it back to have it realigned and these are the numbers I got. At first the front numbers annoyed me but then I looked further and the rear numbers bugged me.

I asked around and read some posts… still as confused. I’m sure I can get the front corrected but what about the rear?

They replaced the leave packs and I’m curious how far off I am from stock, -.37 and .37 don’t seem right. Even though my toe is “0” is the -.37 and .37 something to stress over? And -.37 thrust angle?

If the leaves need adjusting I’m assuming U bolts need to be replaced?

35x12.5 on 17x8.5 0 offset
Icon RXT leaves setting 2 (2”-3”)
Icon tubular UCAs