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What is the proper way to do a 3" lift?

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Bob, Jan 9, 2018.

  1. Jan 9, 2018 at 8:27 PM
    #1
    Bob

    Bob [OP] Member Staff Member

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    Posted on behalf of another user:

    What is the best way to do a lift without causing issues with the suspension and handling?
     
  2. Jan 9, 2018 at 10:42 PM
    #2
    bobeast

    bobeast really old member

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    - Bull Bar - LED Bunny Burners - AMP retractable running boards - Headlight leveling retrofit - P3 Brake Controller - 60% rear seat delete - relocation of Sub to rear wall - Bilstein 5100 x4, top setting with 2 shims per side - Coach builder +2 rear shackles w/carrier bearing drop - Firestone Air bags - on-board compressor with auto-leveling - Dual Undercover Swing Boxes. - P285/65/R20 (34.6") BFG TA KO2's - TRD Front skid plate - Pop & Lock Tailgate lock - Remote Tailgate mod - LED Headlights - Nav Bypass - iPhone integration - Serius/XM retrofit - 25% front tint - Bizon electric tonneau cover - Power folding tow mirror upgrade - 2010+ leveling Headlight mod - Auto-fold mirror mod. - one-touch lane changer mod - Flash to open garage opener mod - Rigid H/L fog light upgrade - Pushbutton / Remote start mod.
    You'll get a dozen opinions on this, but one I think most of us will agree on is to stay away from spacer lifts. Beyond that it really depends on your intended use.

    Mine is light off-road (mostly forest fire roads and the occasional mud puddle). My setup includes Bilstein 5100s on all for corners with the front at the top setting. Then I added 2 coach builder shims to each side above the shock towers for a total front lift of about 3 ⅓" Then on the back I have Coach Builder +3 shackles which gives about 2" rear lift.

    I have a front diff drop kit installed (only needed for 4WD). In the back I have a carrier bearing drop kit installed. This brings the the geometries back closer to factory specs. Finally, I have 285/65R20 KO2 tires which are around 2" taller than stock (which effectively gives an additional inch of lift)

    The above probably represents the best bang-to-buck ratio without compromising the ride. If your off-road intent is more serious than mine, you'll need to look at more serious hardware including new front springs and adjustable UCAs.
     
    mattyd170, revtune, Law323 and 6 others like this.
  3. Jan 9, 2018 at 10:46 PM
    #3
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    Suspension lift is the best life you could possibly do. Replace front coilovers and rear shocks with rear block or extended length shackle.
    I have settled on the Toytec Radflo 2.5 coilovers, total chaos UCAs, rear Toytec Boss with resi shocks and Toytec shackle. This may be overkill for you or it might be what your looking for.

    How much offroad would you be doing?
     
    Law323, T-Rex266, Jsena and 3 others like this.
  4. Jan 10, 2018 at 2:54 AM
    #4
    Tundra_mike89

    Tundra_mike89 New Member

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    Toytec boss coilovers Toytec shackles Total chaos uca's Method wheels Nitto ridge grapplers
    I went with the toytec boss kit with shackles in the rear and total chaos uca’s. I love the setup and the guys at toytec are extremely helpful

    250E5C33-48A7-48CF-BD19-EAD897E66748.jpg
     
    TOYOTARIG, equin, Steamin and 9 others like this.
  5. Jan 10, 2018 at 8:19 AM
    #5
    Opus5150

    Opus5150 Terminal Lance

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    Not 3", but I leveled my 2017 CM with Bilstein 6112's on the 1.9" setting. Same stance as the Pro. I wasn't going for anything too extreme, just a better look. With the 1.9 setting, I won't need a diff drop or expensive UCAs. My 4-wheeling will be pretty much limited to once a year trips to the beach at Carova. I have noticed a slight lean on my drivers side, so a shim may be in my future. Rear is stock, but I'm saving for the 4160 reservoir setup soon.
    Like other members have mentioned, it really depends on what you are going to do off-road, and how big your budget is.
     
    MDHinSD likes this.
  6. Jan 10, 2018 at 8:57 AM
    #6
    TundraTss

    TundraTss The Mistress

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    Everything. Literally.
    This.
     
  7. Jan 10, 2018 at 9:17 AM
    #7
    SuaveRC

    SuaveRC New Member

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    If I just want to level my front end on my 2018 tundra 4x2 crewmax, will I just need the spacer? Also, what does a 2" lift run for a complete set-up? I don't do any off-roading, just for looks.
     
    LiftMeUp and Toytec Lifts like this.
  8. Jan 10, 2018 at 9:31 AM
    #8
    Toytec Lifts

    Toytec Lifts New Member

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    Have to be careful with leveling out the 18 Tundras since they have the TSS-P system...

    We were told not to level them out to insure proper operation of the TSS-P system, we can still lift them no problem but will have to maintain some rake on the truck.
     
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  9. Jan 10, 2018 at 9:35 AM
    #9
    SuaveRC

    SuaveRC New Member

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    That does sound familiar about leveling... What is rake? Also what will it cost for maybe a 2" lift or which set-up do you recommend with a link?
     
    tundramunky likes this.
  10. Jan 10, 2018 at 9:39 AM
    #10
    Toytec Lifts

    Toytec Lifts New Member

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    Rake is where the rear end of the truck is sitting higher than the front. That stance needs to still be there to insure proper operation of your TSS-P system.

    2'' in the front will, yes, level out the Tundra but then again you are going to need to keep some rear end height to make sure your system works properly.


    Feel free to shoot me a message!
     
    T-Rex266 and SuaveRC like this.
  11. Jan 10, 2018 at 9:41 AM
    #11
    BlueFalconActual

    BlueFalconActual Field Day Inspector Extraordinaire

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    Spacers are the padded bras of lift kits.
     
  12. Jan 10, 2018 at 9:53 AM
    #12
    BlueFalconActual

    BlueFalconActual Field Day Inspector Extraordinaire

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    I'm not trying to be a suspension snob or anything like that, but if there is ANY chance of your truck touching a dirt road or even speed bumps, I would highly recommend against getting a spacer lift. It's cheap but you don't have to do much searching to see what it can do to a shock if you hit a bump too hard. A lot of guys get them because they are inexpensive and then regret getting them later on. I would try to calm the "mod bug" and hold off until you can get a good suspension lift. There are a TON of options across the price spectrum and @ToyTec Lifts will be more than happy to help you along.

    Stock suspension > spacer.
     
  13. Jan 10, 2018 at 9:56 AM
    #13
    lbcdan

    lbcdan Zip it up and zip it out

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    Toytec Boss Coilovers, Total Chaos UCA, Icon 57720P Shocks, Toytec Shackles, TRD Off-Road Wheels, SpiderTrax Spacers, BakFlip MX4, Clazzio Seat Covers, Rough Country Light Bar, BajaDesigns Foglights
    What size tire are you running in this photo?
     
  14. Jan 10, 2018 at 10:02 AM
    #14
    joonbug

    joonbug °°°°°°°°°°

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    OP, what's your budget?
     
  15. Jan 10, 2018 at 10:25 AM
    #15
    SuaveRC

    SuaveRC New Member

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    Got it. I would just get a 2" lift front and back
     
  16. Jan 23, 2018 at 4:17 PM
    #16
    pschiller86

    pschiller86 2017 SR5 CrewMax

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    Can you post a pic of your truck?
     
  17. Jan 23, 2018 at 4:18 PM
    #17
    Frkypunk

    Frkypunk "If a man is to be a street sweeper"

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  18. Jan 23, 2018 at 6:51 PM
    #18
    Stumpjumper

    Stumpjumper New Member

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    I would go with 6112s on 1.9 and 1" rear shackle or block. 6112 coilovers are a fairly simple driveway install. Or go with adjustable Toytecs.
     
  19. Jan 23, 2018 at 7:04 PM
    #19
    Samoan Thor

    Samoan Thor God is technically an alien

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    More than likely you don’t need the new suspension like right this minute, save your money for kings or fox, icon, ads but I love the blue shocks. Took months for me saving for them but it was worth it, got all 4 wheels off the ground down to a soft and controlled landing nothing broke and the suspension is just fine no leaks. I’ve done that repeatedly and the shocks never heated. You can wait, save your money do it right the first time, just don’t use spacer lifts. Mall crawlers look cool but would break off-roading and it’s much more fun in the dirt than pavement.

    97DA122B-4ADF-4701-89F9-728E9FC209C0.jpg
     
  20. Jan 23, 2018 at 7:35 PM
    #20
    PlatinumPro

    PlatinumPro New Member

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    correction... assembled 6112's are a fairly simple driveway install. as far as i remember with mine they didn't include top hats which means either you buy them separately, use the stock parts or buy them assembled which i recommend.
     
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  21. Jan 24, 2018 at 4:28 AM
    #21
    SuaveRC

    SuaveRC New Member

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    Mind posting a link to them? I don't do any off reading, just want a nice look and nothing lifted high. I have a 2018 tundra with the TSS package.
     
    Krush and Samoan Thor[QUOTED] like this.
  22. Jan 24, 2018 at 6:09 AM
    #22
    Samoan Thor

    Samoan Thor God is technically an alien

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    You can get good deals from www.rogue-offroad.com or @dirtydeeds, autoanything sometimes has good deals, Downsouth Motorsports or Camburg
     
    SuaveRC[QUOTED] likes this.
  23. Jan 26, 2018 at 12:04 PM
    #23
    Opus5150

    Opus5150 Terminal Lance

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    Not the best pics. Sits pretty much dead level now. 6112s on the front @ 1.9, stock rearIMG_0446.jpg IMG_0447.jpg
     
    TXRailRoadBandit73 likes this.
  24. Jan 26, 2018 at 1:15 PM
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    Law323

    Law323 it’s only weird if you make it weird

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    Figured it was more of a wonder bra. Eventually you wonder what happened to the contents.
     
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  25. Jan 26, 2018 at 1:41 PM
    #25
    zcarpenter92

    zcarpenter92 Yotas and Yellow Jackets

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    I’d say go with aftermarket coilovers in front and an aftermarket leaf pack and/or shackles in the rear. When I added the 2.5 Radflos set at 3” lift, it was a little stiff in front, but after 500 miles or so they seem to be wearing in nicely. I’m still on stock UCA’s right now, but will eventually upgrade to uniballs. The new bushings on the shackles in back have helped with bed bounce, especially on the new (but still stock) leaf springs. Now I only really notice it when I’m on an especially rough patch of road. If I start spending more time off road this summer I’ll likely go with a Deaver pack somewhere down the line.
     
  26. Apr 9, 2019 at 11:53 AM
    #26
    skatebass1958

    skatebass1958 New Member

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    So you have all of this installed with factory UCA's?

    I am thinking about doing exactly what you just described with those tires as well. But I am not sure if I will need to replace my factory UCA's or not.

    Thanks
     
  27. Apr 9, 2019 at 12:40 PM
    #27
    bobeast

    bobeast really old member

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    - Bull Bar - LED Bunny Burners - AMP retractable running boards - Headlight leveling retrofit - P3 Brake Controller - 60% rear seat delete - relocation of Sub to rear wall - Bilstein 5100 x4, top setting with 2 shims per side - Coach builder +2 rear shackles w/carrier bearing drop - Firestone Air bags - on-board compressor with auto-leveling - Dual Undercover Swing Boxes. - P285/65/R20 (34.6") BFG TA KO2's - TRD Front skid plate - Pop & Lock Tailgate lock - Remote Tailgate mod - LED Headlights - Nav Bypass - iPhone integration - Serius/XM retrofit - 25% front tint - Bizon electric tonneau cover - Power folding tow mirror upgrade - 2010+ leveling Headlight mod - Auto-fold mirror mod. - one-touch lane changer mod - Flash to open garage opener mod - Rigid H/L fog light upgrade - Pushbutton / Remote start mod.
    This is on the factory UCAs. The decision to change UCAs should be driven by the ability (or lack thereof) to obtain an in-spec alignment. An alignment is warranted any time you change suspension components, so I'd let the result of that inform your decision. Tolerances being what they are, the ability to get a good alignment on one truck may not mean you will be able to do so on another, even with the exact same components.
     
  28. Apr 9, 2019 at 3:33 PM
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    Tundra234

    Tundra234 New Member

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    @bobeast.....is your setup the same height equivalent to the Readylift 3/2 spacer kit? I currently have that kit and 285/70/18's on a +1 offset. I want to go to a better system but don't want to have it lower than the current height. I'm not sure what kits out there match the ride height.
     
  29. Apr 9, 2019 at 9:12 PM
    #29
    bobeast

    bobeast really old member

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    - Bull Bar - LED Bunny Burners - AMP retractable running boards - Headlight leveling retrofit - P3 Brake Controller - 60% rear seat delete - relocation of Sub to rear wall - Bilstein 5100 x4, top setting with 2 shims per side - Coach builder +2 rear shackles w/carrier bearing drop - Firestone Air bags - on-board compressor with auto-leveling - Dual Undercover Swing Boxes. - P285/65/R20 (34.6") BFG TA KO2's - TRD Front skid plate - Pop & Lock Tailgate lock - Remote Tailgate mod - LED Headlights - Nav Bypass - iPhone integration - Serius/XM retrofit - 25% front tint - Bizon electric tonneau cover - Power folding tow mirror upgrade - 2010+ leveling Headlight mod - Auto-fold mirror mod. - one-touch lane changer mod - Flash to open garage opener mod - Rigid H/L fog light upgrade - Pushbutton / Remote start mod.
    Pretty darn close if not just a touch higher in the front. You certainly wouldn't lose any height with this setup, and would notice a marked improvement in suppleness. I actually had a Rough Country 3/2 spacer lift before this setup.
     
  30. Apr 10, 2019 at 10:17 AM
    #30
    Tundra234

    Tundra234 New Member

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    My setup includes Bilstein 5100s on all for corners with the front at the top setting. Then I added 2 coach builder shims to each side above the shock towers for a total front lift of about 3 ⅓" Then on the back I have Coach Builder +3 shackles which gives about 2" rear lift.

    Thanks for the reply. So 5100's on all 4 corners, the +3 shackles and what size are the shims? I assume you were much happier with the ride after the switch? The roads here in Fl are crap so its pretty stiff right now on some roads.
     

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