Ask the Toyota mechanic!

@LOTSOFTOYS,

When I install wheel spacers, can or should I just loc-tite them to the existing lugs or do I just torque them to spec and re torque them every so often?

Thanks.

 

Anyone?

 

I wouldn't loctite them... but why are they coming loose? Weird...

Piston slap? A lot of these newere aluminum block engines are louder and cam hear piston slap when cold but it's considered normal.

Yes go compare

definitely loctite. Don't need red... but blue. And torque to 90-100

 

Yeah but it just started doing it... I've replaced the tensioner and idler pulley and it's still doing it. Starting to piss me off. It's s clear metal on metal rattle...

 

Hi there. Im the new owner of a 2014 Platinum that was a previous lease and currently has 37,000 miles. I would like to do a maintenance baseline of the vehicle. What do you recommend to do first and can anyone recommend a shop to perform the work in the Denver area?

Thanks!

 

Hello - Thank you for answering our questions.

I've done as much research as I can but have found nothing that works for my question.

I have an '06 Tundra Double Cab 4wd Limited and would like to have the doors auto lock when put into drive or when the vehicle starts rolling like my Camry's do.

Would you happen to know of a way to do this?

I've tried the put it in N and hold the door lock button and have done the five on/off sequence as well without results.

Thank you.

 

I’ve been wanting to install the Flowmaster American Thunder 817664 on my 2010 4.6L v8 Tundra. Does anyone have this on their truck and does it sound good?

 

clean it up and use pure Silicone adhesive

 

Yeah stevinson Toyota west u need a 30k service: driveline service, cabin filter, air filter, rotate& balance alignment wouldn't hurt

I'm not sure our tundra have that capability

You probably did get the Trans temp high. Don't do that anymore lol.

 

Would help yes. I would also ask if your truck has the tow package and the extra Trans cooler up front?

 

I just had the P2442 code come up on my 2007 Tundra, thought I fixed it a couple of days ago but came back. Upon further digging and these posts I now know what the problem is, my only concern is the cost. I bought my truck used 6 years ago and didn't know about this problem, never receive a letter from Toyota and now I'm over 170,000. Is it worth going to the dealership and getting it fixed or better to go to an outside shop? Which would be cheaper.

 

Long time listener, first time caller....

I have a squeak coming from the outer edges of the steering rack, or at least it sounds like it. I hear the squeak while traveling over small bumps, and turning slightly, not when turned halfway to lock. I have lubes all bushings on front end, but i was thinking of poking small holes on the outer rack boots so that i could shoot some lube on the tie-rod shaft where it would enter the rack. No leaks are aparent.

 

I wouldn't poke holes... racks don't typically make squeaks. Can u duplicate it by just bouncing on the truck when parked?

 

I can dublicate to a point by rocking the truck. But the noise seems to be coming from the behind the skid plate, I just haven’t had time to remove it and test. Is there anything in the area around the rack that would squeak?

 

I noticed the other day my aftermarket remote door locker didn't cause my car to beep and the lights didn't flash. So I figured out that my front drivers and passenger side doors weren't locking. I then tried to use the door lock button on the inside and still no go. The back doors lock with both the use of the button and key fob thing. I also visually checked the all the fuses and used a continuity tester on them and they all seemed good as well as pulling the fuse for what was labeled door on my fuse cover(a white 25a fuse on the inside fuse box). Does this seem like a door lock actuator? Is this the type of thing covered under warranty I have a 2016 tundra with 32k miles? My third question if it is the actuator I have read on other forms that the motor can be ordered online and replaced in the current actuator to fix the problem for a fraction of the price?

 

I'm thinking that you're going to have to remove the skid, get under there and listen while someone else rocks the truck. Be super careful though. Also, I think that the rack is mounted on rubber bushings, maybe some crud got in there, not real common but could happen.

 

Sounds like you're within the warranty period, I'd pursue that first.

 

I have a mechanical question. Wife and i are on a road trio and my truck us acting up. 2007 4.7l 125k. While driving at 70mph the throttle cuts out and engine loses power. If i lift off the throttle and push again the power comes right back. Been doing this for about the last 15 miles randomly. Has done it in the past but for short periods of time and then it doesnt happen again for a few days. Doesnt matter the speed or temperature. Never got any check engine light and guages are all normal. I am baffled at what would cause this and if i need to take it into the shop but not sure what the problem is.

 

I had a similar issue in my work van (ford) just last week. I thought it was a vacuum issue of some sort so I took it into the shop. Turned out it was the spark plugs. 3 of 8 were not firing, but all needed replaced. The engine sounds different now, more smooth and I haven't had the issue since.

 

Hey LOTSOFTOYS, thanks a lot for answering everyones questions as im sure you get enough questions at work as it is!

So, im not really sure if this is actually a problem or not, and i didnt have time to read through the whole 37 pages, so im sorry if someone has asked this before. When i go to start my truck, usually when its cold, it fires up like normal for about 1 second, then dips down to 500-600 rpms for another 1.5 to 2 seconds before going back to the normal idle speed. It doesnt always do it, and ive had no issues, but i drive a lot as it is my DD and really dont want any unforseen mechanical issues. Thanks again for your help and the knowledge you are willing to share with all of us!

 

Hello, I finally had a chance to check out the outside of my 2018 1794 Edition truck in daylight somewhat and I was looking through the rear wheelwells and I see rust???? On a brand new truck I picked up a week ago that had only 2 miles on it? Is this normal for a brand new truck? I live in New Jersey so we had snow but the truck hasn't moved since I bought it last week and I don't believe the 2018 truck has been sitting in the let THAT long. Is this normal? I mean, am I being nit picky? I had a 2007 4Runner that I bought new and didn't see any rust at all.

 

Yeah but I didn't think it would form that quick. Maybe after 6 months yeah. Fluid Film eh?...Never heard of it and I will definitely check it out and take care of it. I thought it might have been the rusted recall crap on the Toyotas I was reading about. Thanks for your reply. I really appreciate it.

 

yeah, I will put some of that on the cables as well. By any chance, would you happen to know what this Toyota Security is for? I checked the manual and they just have it whited out with no explanation. I feel like the Government is listening to me in my truck...LOL!!

 

Yeah thats what I was thinking. Have to be careful now conversating in the truck, you never know...just like the iPhone with the finger print unlock...thats how they get ya!...lol

 

yes, it is the glass break sensor...lol

 

Ok. I'm having a cold start issue. My truck is an 18 with the 5.7, 1100 miles. The problem is intermittent. What's happening is during some cold start situations it'll turn over once and shut right back off, the second attempt, it starts with no issue. The problem only seems to happen if I've idled a lot the last time I ran it, which with the weather has been a lot. It's almost like it's loading up like something with a carburetor would, but there's no roughness or hesitation after it does start, and I always give it a little Italian tune up after this happens. No codes it anything.

 

For those of you that installed sliders, did you use (red) loctite? SDHQ references it, but is not included in the instructions.

 

If it's flex fuel you may need the reflash at the dealer. I've never dealt with it but have seen a few others have your issue. It's a quick software fix, something to do with the flex fuel electronics.

 

Mine isn't FF but I'll take it in Monday and see if they'll reflash it, and that solves the problem. It's just one of those minor annoyances.