Oil in my 4.6 liter v8 2011

So today I got an oil change on my tundra 4.6 liter and I didn’t realize I got synthetic blend. Is my truck gonna die? I’m freaking out because idk if it needs full synthetic. I got the right numbers 0w-20 it’s just synthetic blend not full synthetic and I work at a ford dealer so I got the brand motor craft. Tell me some good news so I can sleep tonight lol

 

If you keep up with regular maintenance it apparently doesn't matter what oil you use.
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/Newsletters/Gas-Diesel/July-1-2017.php

 

Well I’m going to go back to full synthetic after 3000 miles on the dot. My dad who gave me the truck told me the dealer said with full synthetic you can go 10000 miles but even with full synthetic I will not got more than 5000 to be safe because the truck has 140000 miles on it

 

November 2021 update on this thread...

To aag5 and all others wondering about using Synthetic, Blended or "All Natural Organic Oils", you can use all three. The key factor to keep in mind is to buy the highest quality oil you can afford at the time having the correct Rating and Weight.

FYI...

With that being said, an interesting development has occurred since the original 2017 posting date that some of you may want to know about: As it turns out, natural/synthetic oil blends may actually be BETTER for your engine than full synthetic oils.

Several mechanics and custom engine performance shops have identified a potential link between using full synthetic oils for long periods of time (years) and premature engine failure. On several Ford and GM engines--including the 5.4L's and LS motors--which came in for service or that self-destructed, an unusual brown sticky varnish, like partially dried pancake syrup, was identified inside the engine. A key factor among these engines were owners who stated something to the effect of "...I always used full synthetic oil in my engine....I don't understand what happened..this has to be caused by a factory defective part...etc.," After tear-down inspection, it appeared the sticky varnish began restricting the smallest oil passages first, then larger and larger ones until engine malfunction/failure occurred. This was especially true on several Ford and GM motors whose Cam Phasers depended on tiny oil passages to function.

Several suggestions were made to avoid future oil-related engine damage, including:
1.) Strictly adhering to the factory oil change interval & stick to factory recommended oils--especially if under warranty.
2.) Follow the latest updated TSB procedures regarding engine oil/filter service for your vehicle.
3.) Stop using full synthetic oils & switch to a high quality standard or synthetic blend.
4.) Use the lightest weight oil allowed by the manufacturer for the season.
5.) Run a high detergent oil or use an aftermarket detergent in the oil.
6.) Use the manufacturer's internal engine cleaner/get an engine cleaning service per service guidelines or use a safe, proven cleaner like Sea-Foam every 4th or 5th oil change.

Thus, there does seem to be some connection with full synthetic oils and premature engine failure. Too bad the brands of synthetic oils each customer used were not specifically recorded--I suspect some cheap high-wax containing fluids might be to blame here.

Based upon my research and long personal experience with combustion engines, I'm personally using Amsoil or Valvoline High Mileage synthetic blend along with a friction reducer like Motokote or TC3 our family's 2011 4.6L Tundra & 3.3L Lexus engines. Oil change intervals are approx. 16 months or 9k miles apart and I do the Sea Foam treatment every 4 or 5 oil changes. The results have been positive so far.

Here are a few more tips for those of you who are interested...

THE ULTIMATE OIL UPGRADE FOR THE TUNDRAS
For those of you who want to SUBSTANTIALLY IMPROVE the oiling system in your Tundra, consider installing a fender mounted remote oil filter re-locator and buying an industrial sized 10" deep screw on filter, or, if you can find room under the hood, install a dual filter model and run two WIX 51515 or larger filters. This modification radically improves filtration (e.g. down to 21 microns ) & flow rates (e.g. up to 7 to 11 GPM), reduces oil pressure drop across the filter, reduces oil pressure drop at low speeds, decreases pump-up times for hydraulic lifters (that unusual "tap-tap-tap-tap" sound after letting your truck sit for a while), extends oil change intervals and increase engine oil capacity by over a quart.

KEEPING YOUR COOLING SYSTEM IN PEAK CONDITION
For those who regularly drive through see deep mud, tall grass, etc., check your factory plate-style oil cooler for blockage & debris often & clean as needed. A properly functioning oil cooler helps extend oil life by reducing premature oxidation/chemical breakdown over time.

For those in hot dessert climates where near surface temperatures exceed 140 F./60 C. during the day [ "cough-cough" pay attention Tundra owners in West Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, Southern California & Mexico ], it is IMPERATIVE to keep your primary cooling system in peak operating condition. Engine oil functions as a lubricant, a hydraulic fluid and as a secondary engine coolant--meaning it depends exclusively upon the primary coolant to do it's job correctly. This means keeping the engine anti-freeze, anti-freeze thermostat, radiator, engine fan, thermostatic fan clutch, serpentine accessory belt, belt tensioner & all pulley bearings in peak condition during the summer. The result is a robust, well-performing, long-lasing and enjoyable engine.

 

I just run Schaeffers for 10k and dont worry about it.

 

Thanks Bryan.

I still eat real butter.

 

Run whatever you want. As long as the weights right and you actually change it. I run full synthetic in my cars and trucks. My 06
Corolla went well over 800k miles on the synthetic diet and 20-25k oil change intervals. (Was like once every couple months, all highway.)