Need help on alignment and tie rod adjustment

How ya doing folks! Just needed to get an opinion on what would be best to do.

I installed a zone 5" lift and some 35s. Got it aligned. After alignment I noticed a very slight pull to the right. Brought back to the shop that did my alignment. They put it back on the rack and checked read-out. They notified me that there wasnt much they can do anymore because it was all on "green" on the computer. Arguing with them was like beating a dead horse so I left. First of all they told me I got the wrong offset. Supposedly I chose is causing it. Mind you, Im running 18x9 -14 on 35x12.50. They said by looking at my wheel choice that I was running stock offset. LOL. They suggested I buy a set from them thats -44.. So I told em to kick rocks.

So I did some research and read I can simply adjust both tie rods the same equal amounts of twists to correct my slight right pull. I would want to go this route to not have to pay for another alignment if possible. Seems alot of people have done this with success. My question is, Its confusing as to how I should turn the the tie rods. Towards the rear or front of the truck? I tried to search with no luck. If anyone can send me a link or guide me through this, Id greatly appreciate it. To recap, Im trying to correct a slight right pull.

I mean if im gonna pay anyways for a second alignment at a different shop, might as well give this a shot yeah?

Thanks!

 

-14 offset? I bet your tires are really sticking out -44 would be nuts.

I assume the zone lift is a drop bracket lift? did you have to get new upper control arms?

what is your current alignment at? did you get a printout?

camber can also affect pulling; not just toe. if it was me, I wouldn't try adjusting the toe to correct a slight pull. I would want the alignment done right.

also, "in the green" is not appropriate for lifted trucks. you are going to want a specific alignment.

 

It sticks out about 3' maybe. I plan on adding fender flares so I just wanted it to sit nice under the flares.

I have the printout. Ill snap a picture and post it later. No upper control arms. I asked zone about it and they said it wasnt necessary as the new knuckles compensated for the angle created by the lift.

 

http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-products-5in-suspension-lift-kit-toyota-tundra/t5

I see... drop bracket and spindles. you should be able to get a proper alignment. I bet that alignment shop doesn't want to spend the time to do it right.

 

To be honest, I got 5 star service before I paid. After they got my cash, it went down to a 1 star service. Horrible. They put blame on everything possible to get away from having to try and fix the problem correctly.

 

Aww, man. That sucks. Post your alignment specs when you get a chance.

 

Will do!

 

Marlon671,
I had the same issue on my 1794 with a 3” front, 2” rear installed at dealership upon purchase. At first I was running stock upper control arms and the dealership could never get it to run straight, always a slight pull to right. They pulled the numbers print out crap with me too. I went through two set of tires and neither made a difference. I got fed up with dealership, so took it to an independent alignment shop. This guy had been doing it for 36 years. He put a slight correction, still in the green, but on the very edge and it ran straight. He told me that the factory upper control arms were hurting me and advised I go with aftermarket. A month later I installed some SPC uppers and took it back to him. He aligned it perfect no issues. He told me because of the new uppers he was able to put a factory spec alignment. Truck tracks straight and true ever since. Bottom line, its most likely not the tires or offset of wheel. Go to a good reputable alignment shop that can personally compensate the pull within the green area of the specs and consider UCA change if you haven’t done so already. Hope that helps!

 

Thanks for the reply. I just called my local off-road shop and asked them who they send all their patrons to. I got a number and will schedule to see them this weekend. I was about to purchase UCAs until manufacturer told me that there's no need for it. My local off road shop also told me that they have zone lifts on their vehicles with no issues with running stock uca which is why I put it on hold. They said to wait till I need to replace my UCAs then I can purchase aftermarket. Ill give the alignment try another shot and if it doesnt fix it, Ill look into aftermarket UCAs. Thanks!

 

Pulled from another tundra forum:

STOCK TRUCKS:
Camber: +.1 degree camber on both sides.
Caster: As much as possible without sacrificing +.1 degree camber or causing a cross caster pull.
Toe: +.12 degrees per side for a total toe of +.24 degrees. (some guys have had to drop toe to +.04 to +.5 per side/+.08 to +.10 total toe)

LIFTED TRUCKS:
Same As Above ... BUT if you have wheels that have more negative offset than foctory wheels, increase the camber to +.2 degrees. (or even +.3 degrees if they just can't get there with the amount of adjustment allowed by the eccentrics) Adjustable upper control arms are available for cases where there just isn't enough adjustment left in the eccentrics to get a decent alignment. Although they are expensive, most guys with lifts have a lot of $$$ invested in tires so you need to make a judgement call.

If its pulling then their alignment sucked, if its your steering wheel is offcenter that can be adjusted minimally with the tie rods. Either way its better to have it on the rack while making adjustments to be sure nothing goes out of wack. If you paid with a card, i would suggest disputing it since they did a mickey mouse job. Find a good independent shop that understands the theory behind alignment, not just green and go.

UCA's will help a lot not just with alignment but driving mannerisms.. i have a mild king coilover lift and didnt get UCA's in the beginning cus i didnt NEED them.. but i gave in and got camburgs and man does it feel way more stable at speed

 

Thanks for the reply! I appreciate the insight!