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Chassis grease - Lithium or Synthetic?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by F1reheart, Aug 29, 2017.

  1. Sep 3, 2017 at 12:15 PM
    #31
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    Can find. Do I need to drop RC skid plate to locate? Any pics?
     
  2. Sep 3, 2017 at 1:35 PM
    #32
    gosolo

    gosolo You Don’t Know Who I Am But I Know Where You Live

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    2"CB shackles, bushings and 1 shim, lockerdown console vault, rear folding seat back mod, snugtop shell with opening side windows, 46g fuel tank, SDHQ sliders and hidden winch, Decked Drawers, Alcan leaf springs and got rid of the interior chrome
    I guess it depends on which skid. On my truck i do have to remove the transfer case skid to access the zerk at the end of the drive shaft.
     
    Les7311 likes this.
  3. Sep 23, 2022 at 3:04 PM
    #33
    BlackSheep

    BlackSheep caffeinated member

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    held together by duct tape and baling wire
    Bumping thread so I can find it again easily.
     
  4. Sep 23, 2022 at 3:09 PM
    #34
    shifty`

    shifty` Our private little trip to hell

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    (see signature for truck info)
    Note: This post is in Gen1 forums and you drive a Gen2 per your signature. Some info here may not apply. But still:

    Chassis lube - hands-down, Valvoline NLGI 2 synthetic w/Moly additive (Valvoline part#: VV985). It's good for everything on the drivetrain and under $10/tube. If you're 4WD, when you get to doing the slip yoke (see #B here), if yours has never been done before, it may seem like it's not taking any grease. Before you even try, read this for instructions on how to handle that one specific zerk, it's an oddball, threw me for a loop! On some of the front diff zerks, swapping to a side-load fitting like this may help:

    [​IMG]
     
    Krewcial and BlackSheep[QUOTED] like this.
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