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Radiator Replacement for 5.7

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by DVYota, May 27, 2017.

  1. May 27, 2017 at 8:41 PM
    #1
    DVYota

    DVYota [OP] Super stock street truck

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    I searched the World Wide Web and found numerous people quoting a radiator replacement as a 4 hour job requiring removal of the front bumper and oil cooler. Ain't nobody got time for that. Here is the easiest way I could come up with.

    Tools I used
    IMG_2305.jpg

    This part is pretty important
    IMG_2285.jpg

    Stock radiator
    IMG_2287.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2017
  2. May 27, 2017 at 8:41 PM
    #2
    DVYota

    DVYota [OP] Super stock street truck

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    Ok let's get started. Make sure your truck's coolant has cooled off before you start.

    Remove your radiator cap.

    On the bottom of the radiator is a drain. You're gonna need a funnel to keep from making a mess.


    Remove the hose from the top and bottom after the coolant is drained
    IMG_2290.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2017
    PhotoNerd and BlueFalconActual like this.
  3. May 27, 2017 at 8:41 PM
    #3
    DVYota

    DVYota [OP] Super stock street truck

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    Next I removed the fan shroud. There are two bolts.
    Yes, remove this
    IMG_2292.jpg

    No need to remove
    IMG_2293.jpg
    Yes, remove
    IMG_2294.jpg
    No need to remove
    IMG_2295.jpg
    Cool, now top is loose. The bottom sits on the bottom of the radiator (I'll take more pics of that tomorrow
    IMG_2289.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2017
  4. May 27, 2017 at 9:04 PM
    #4
    DVYota

    DVYota [OP] Super stock street truck

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    Remove this
    IMG_2302.jpg
    Gives you room to access bolts
    IMG_2304.jpg
    I lossened this to get a little more room to work
    IMG_2296.jpg
     
    PhotoNerd and BlueFalconActual like this.
  5. May 27, 2017 at 9:08 PM
    #5
    DVYota

    DVYota [OP] Super stock street truck

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    Time to remove the 4 bolts that hold the radiator to the truck
    2 at the top, 2 at the bottom
    IMG_2298.jpg IMG_2299.jpg
    This is where the extensions are used to access the lower bolts through the opening in the front bumper without removing it.
    IMG_2282.jpg
     
  6. May 27, 2017 at 9:13 PM
    #6
    DVYota

    DVYota [OP] Super stock street truck

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    When the 4 bolts are removed the radiator will be free. Push the fan shroud towards the engine and lift the radiator out. Lower new radiator in. The lower bolts are tricky and can get stuck.

    I grabbed the bolt with pliers and held it in place, pushed the socket and extension through the front bumper while holding the bolt in place. Tightened bolt.
    IMG_2279.jpg IMG_2281.jpg IMG_2283.jpg
     
  7. May 27, 2017 at 9:17 PM
    #7
    DVYota

    DVYota [OP] Super stock street truck

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    Repeat steps with passenger side lower bolt.

    Insert top radiator bolts and tighten.

    Replace guard and clips.

    Tighten oil cooler bolt.

    Fill with coolant.

    I started my truck and allowed it to remove any air from the coolant system and topped it off.

    Rinse and spilled coolant on skid plate off with water.
     
  8. May 27, 2017 at 11:54 PM
    #8
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    Nice write up Matt. Thanks for taking the time and sharing.
     
  9. May 28, 2017 at 4:25 AM
    #9
    DVYota

    DVYota [OP] Super stock street truck

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    No problem. If I skipped something anyone is welcome to chime in. All the directions I read made this seem like a nightmare job, but it wasn't bad. Took right at an hour. hopefully this help out someone.
     
    ColoradoTJ[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Aug 31, 2017 at 6:54 PM
    #10
    SHIfTHEAD

    SHIfTHEAD New Member

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    Yeah, nice one!
     
  11. Aug 31, 2017 at 7:01 PM
    #11
    TXRailRoadBandit73

    TXRailRoadBandit73 YOTAS,RAILROADER,RÖKnRÖLLN',BEER,MAX/GEMMA

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    Great write up!!! What was size of socket used n that wrench shown in pic of tools shown?
     
  12. Sep 1, 2017 at 4:17 AM
    #12
    DVYota

    DVYota [OP] Super stock street truck

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    I believe it was either 10 or 12mm
     
  13. Sep 1, 2017 at 5:30 AM
    #13
    bicklebok

    bicklebok New Member

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    Thank you for the write up! I'm sure my day will come to replace my radiator, and I will use your write up.
     
  14. Jul 31, 2018 at 10:23 PM
    #14
    Raider77

    Raider77 New Member

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    Thanks Matt, quick question. Did you squeeze the hoses to burp the air out or did you just start up the truck?
     
  15. Jan 17, 2019 at 7:59 AM
    #15
    kparrow

    kparrow New Member

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    Great write up. This is the process I plan to use in about a week when I need to replace mine. Have a hairline crack somewhere that is causing a slow drip. Thankfully Toyota unlike some manufacturers actually made the engine bay have some room to work in it, making this possible. I'm happy it will be simple!
     
  16. Jan 17, 2019 at 8:03 AM
    #16
    10TundraSR5

    10TundraSR5 Happy Tundra owner

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    Awesome write up!
     
  17. Jan 18, 2019 at 11:28 AM
    #17
    Dr_Al

    Dr_Al New Member

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    Not sure how many miles were on your Tundra but you might of wanted to replace the water pump. With the radiator out of the way I would think the pump would be pretty easy to get at.
     
  18. Apr 5, 2019 at 12:21 PM
    #18
    Chief 01

    Chief 01 New Member

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    What about removing the fan, so u can remove the fan shroud ??
     
  19. Mar 25, 2023 at 3:55 PM
    #19
    texmln

    texmln New Member

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    I used this DIY about five years ago to replace the radiator in my 2008 Tundra. I just did the same job in my wife's 2013 Sequoia. One thing that worked for me on the lower bolts is to pull them out using a telescoping magnet tool (careful, they only fit out the front as they have a big washer on them that won't come through the top hole) and then use the tool to get them started again. Make sure your radiator mounting hole is linked up right by looking through the front hole. Put the magnet tool on top of the bolt head and insert into hole. Use the top hole to see the target. Reach into the bumper and turn the tool gripping it as close to the bolt as possible - if you try to turn the handle from the back the telescoping sections tend to just turn within each other down the line. I was able to just get the threads started enough to hold the bolt in place and get my socket and extension on it to finish the job. Note, it's also possible to use a shorter extension from just inside the bumper if you need to. I had to do this on the driver side of the Sequoia because the radar box for cruise control is right in the spot on the bumper grille you need to come through for the bolt.
     

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