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DIY front differential and transfer case fluid change.

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by kenomouth64, Feb 17, 2017.

  1. Aug 18, 2017 at 6:13 PM
    #31
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    Boombastic

    I drained 2 1/2 quarts out, and up to 3 1/4 after running out. Will have to get another quart tomorrow.

    Then do the front after

    Respect Ken for the quick response!!!!
     
  2. Aug 18, 2017 at 7:10 PM
    #32
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    Darnitttttrrtrrrr!!!!!

    I put 75 X 90 in the rear dif. The above says use 75 X 85. Do I need to drain it out ?

    Grrrrrrrr
     
  3. Aug 18, 2017 at 8:33 PM
    #33
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 [OP] New Member

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    Hold the Line! If you are not holding the line, abandon your ship. Destruction is inevitable without more to hold the line!
    It should be fine, to use the 75w-90. It will just be a little more viscous (thicker) than the kind it calls for. It really wont affect anything. You should be good!
     
    Les7311[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Aug 19, 2017 at 3:15 PM
    #34
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    Did the front and rear, but
    I was cussing like a $1-broken-pirate whose ship is full of holes.

    Front diff drain plug was soooooooo tight: trying to loosen drain plug, I spun out the base to the 10mm socket

    Went to store and bought replacement.....snapped the head off the socket extension to the 10mm

    Sprayed with liquid wrench and use braker bar. And still no luck.

    Pipe wrench and still no luck

    Had to drive to. A shop so tech could put on lift and he used braker and his 300 pound body weight to break plug.

    Who the 6&6;$82);63(37;&!,?/$/? Tighten this plug????? Grrrrrrrr

    6 hours later,,,,,,...All gears juiced up now....
     
  5. Aug 19, 2017 at 5:13 PM
    #35
    nuclearlemon

    nuclearlemon New Member

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    Air guns are not for people who don't know how to use them. ;)
     
    kenomouth64[OP] likes this.
  6. May 19, 2018 at 6:46 PM
    #36
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    Had to replace the passenger front inner diff seal.

    When you drop the skid, do check for leaks. Less than a half cup drained out.

    Topping off tomorrow
     
  7. Aug 12, 2018 at 12:55 PM
    #37
    Help

    Help New Member

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    OP,

    Thanks for the write up. This worked for my '14, with only minor variances.

    1) My transfer case doesn't have washers on the drain or fill plug. I used "Ravenol" brand 75W MTF-3 Full Synth on Amazon (Its made in Germany for Toyota and a couple Euro brands). $16/liter when its not on sale ;) aaaaand the bottle it comes in is rather neat. The built in spout makes very little mess when pouring straight into the case.
     
    86Scotty and kenomouth64[OP] like this.
  8. Jun 10, 2019 at 5:11 AM
    #38
    rvrats2

    rvrats2 Too Often Yankees Overprice This Auto

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    I had a feeling my front diff drain would be tight as I rounded it out on my ‘04 Tundra. But you broke two 10mm sockets and didn’t round out the plug?!? I could feel the plug on my ‘11 starting to round, so I heated it, banged on it with a hammer, sprayed it, and I used an old 5’ Yakima roof rack cross bar as my breaker bar. Almost gave up for the day, tried one more time real careful like and it popped loose. Big middle finger to that drain plug.
     
  9. Jul 27, 2019 at 1:48 AM
    #39
    OKIEGASSGUZZLER

    OKIEGASSGUZZLER New Member

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    2011 Tundra 4X4 5.7 LTR Flex
    The Toyota dealer service rep advised me to use a Limited Slip additive. If I didn't the rear end would come apart. Is this necessary? Also, do I need to add it to the front diff?
     
  10. Jul 27, 2019 at 5:02 AM
    #40
    Dr_Al

    Dr_Al New Member

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    I've changed what must be 100 (front, rear, and T-case) of these and have never changed the metal gaskets. It's no different than changing the engine oil, never changed that metal gasket either. Back in the good old days when Toyota had a solid front axle it seamed like any time you got into water while playing in the mud water would get into it turning the oil into a puke green color.
     
    86Scotty likes this.
  11. Jul 27, 2019 at 8:49 AM
    #41
    duece292

    duece292 Appalachian American

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    In short... NO. For front or rear. You do not need to add anything unless your rear end has had a mechanical locking differential put in. If your truck is stock and has never been modified then no, no additives are needed. The LSD in your truck is controlled by the brakes. Not to mention, 75-85 or 75-90 already has a friction modifier in it which 1) is designed to work with most locking diffs and 2) will be fine in your truck. I would suggest to your service advisor that he should stick to diagnosing cars and minivans and leave the truck stuff to guys who know what they're doing.
    Oh, welcome from WI.
     
  12. Jul 28, 2019 at 2:30 PM
    #42
    OKIEGASSGUZZLER

    OKIEGASSGUZZLER New Member

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    Thanks Greg,
    I think the dealer was trying to sell me the BG product they sell. Does it matter if I use regular or synthetic? Also I noticed some gear lubes have LS in the label. Do I need to be concerned with this?
     
  13. Oct 25, 2019 at 5:44 AM
    #43
    Marco

    Marco New Member

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    I called borg Warner hey said 75 LF is a Toyota fluid they must use in manufacturing it’s a break in fluid and gas mileage thing.
    It’s made by Exxon Mobile . Toyota uses 75 90 GL 5 diffs.... and 80 90 GL4 for transfer case
    Toyota dose not sell LX or LF and the service dept in all Toyota’s use 75 90 GL 5 diffs and 80 90 GL 4 for transfer case because Warner has soft metals in borg Warner case . And GL 4 has less sulfur which is for soft metals
    Toyota mandates B Warner to use Toyota LF 75 in manufacturing as it is a break in fluid.. But Toyota dose not use these fluids in service life... 75 90 and 80 90 are superior . When u put 80 90 GL4 in transfer case see how easily it shifts in to HI and Low 4x4
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2019
    86Scotty and rodm1 like this.
  14. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:11 AM
    #44
    MyFj08

    MyFj08 New Member

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    I'm working on it

    With the transfer case

    How do you tell which one you have GL-4 or GL- 5

    Or does it matter. Use the same fluid for either

    I ask. As Amsoil Lists different products for the GL- 4. than the 5
     
  15. Nov 5, 2019 at 10:07 AM
    #45
    Marco

    Marco New Member

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    Use Mobile 75 90 GL 5 in differenrtials use 80 90gl4 in transfer case when u but it on line google 80 90 Gl 4 it will come up .
    FYI the 75 LF Toyota fluid Warner uses is an ExxonMobile product
     
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  16. Nov 5, 2019 at 10:09 AM
    #46
    Marco

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    If u use Amsoil ask for 80 90 In GL 4 or equivalent
     
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  17. Nov 5, 2019 at 10:12 AM
    #47
    MyFj08

    MyFj08 New Member

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    I'm working on it
    For both applications
    Transfer case and front dif.
     
  18. Jun 24, 2020 at 3:26 PM
    #48
    rodm1

    rodm1 New Member

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    Last edited: Jun 24, 2020
  19. Jun 26, 2020 at 10:33 AM
    #49
    ColoradoBoo

    ColoradoBoo New Member

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    Excellent thread....my 2014 Tundra just hit 35,000 so this is on my todo list. I was going to just do it in the garage but after reading problems with tight plugs I'll use the lift at the Air Force Academy auto hobby shop so I have lots of room for a breaker bar if needed. (Yes, idiots should not be allowed to touch an air gun....I just helped my son-in-law with VERY TIGHT oil change plug on his Suzuki that some chowderhead at Walmart automotive did. Yes, my SIL was told NEVER go there, again, just bring it over to my house and we'll do it.)
     
  20. Sep 14, 2020 at 5:24 PM
    #50
    Ckatz53

    Ckatz53 Newish

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    Reviving an old thread. Gear swapping this week. After the break in, have to swap the diff gear oils. Nitro's recommendations don't say anything about the transfer case and swapping fluid. Anyone have any experience?
     
  21. May 12, 2023 at 12:00 PM
    #51
    SnrDisregardo

    SnrDisregardo New Member

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    Question on doing this. I did mine to where I jacked the front up to a) access the diff easier b) everything I saw said to level the truck. No is that meaning to get the truck as level as possible or just to have it on level ground?

    Also, I have a 2018 and the transfer case used pipe thread plugs. No gaskets aside for pipe dope.
     
  22. May 13, 2023 at 6:03 AM
    #52
    COTundie

    COTundie Whoa Black Betty

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    Pretty things
    You want the truck to be level.

    My garage is sloped toward the entrance (as many are for drainage purposes) so I raise the rear of my truck up a few inches when servicing fluids like diffs, x-fer, and trans. I don't worry so much for my oil changes.
     
  23. May 14, 2023 at 5:33 AM
    #53
    SnrDisregardo

    SnrDisregardo New Member

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    Thanks. I had to jack the front up and, because I’m nuts, put a 4’ level on the frame rail and the running boards. Don’t want to grenade the front diff or transfer case. The rear is easy enough to do on the ground.
     
  24. May 14, 2023 at 7:02 AM
    #54
    COTundie

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    Never hurts to be extra precise.

    I need to figure a day to do all of my non-engine fluids again here soon. I'll have to drop the cat plate for the trans, so might as well just knock it all out.
     

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