Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Mine comes out and down at about a 45 degree angle away from the truck. It winds up sticking out to the side about as wide as the rear fender sticks out. Not a big deal for me. Ive got it down where I can just use the toe of my boot to pull it out and it pops right down. Same thing putting it back up. Im diggin it. Must have for me with my truck being so tall. Ive got that swing out tire carrier on mine too so the little bit of an angle works out perfectly for me it being off to the side a bit.

 

Nice set up. But you have an after market bumper. And we have different trucks. Mine is a '16 and I want to keep the stock resin/paint matching bumper. I've just been reading that it wont work with that stock resin bumper. Just wondering if anyone has installed it utilizing the stock bumper.

 

Yea I read the reviews on Amazon and they are right, AMP has a different version for the new 3rd Gens. Amazon has the listing wrong. I called AMP asking if I could a get a right side step too ( they don't make them ) and we talked about the new 3rd Gen version being pretty much the same thing but a little different. I do believe that they do have them that mount to the frame same as 2nd Gen if you want to call them directly.

I checked out that one that you posted at the Topper place when I ordered my topper. Not nearly as nice as the AMP and it didn't work as well.

 

Thanks. Good to know.

 

I have yet to see a tundra that has a brake light out not cone out of park.... I see ext. Lights burnt out all the time and haven't seen this. I'm gonna test that

 

I had to have the truck towed because the instrument panel was lit up like a Christmas tree at one point. The truck just started the issues with the ABS and TRac Control lights coming on and truck trying to die.

It was right after my topper was put on. I checked every single one of those fuses and they were ALL the right amperage and in the right places with none of them blown. THE TRUCK WOULD START COULD NOT BE SHIFTED OUT OF PARK

When the tow truck driver showed up he poped the square cover next to the shift lever and pressed down the button inside. Truck shifted into gear. Had I known I would have driven it to Toyota but since every light on the dash was lit up I went ahead and it towed it up there.

Once I got it to the dealership Toyota said that some fuses both under the hood and in the fuse box on the driver side were "in the wrong places" which was completely weird. I had just checked them all.

I am still perplexed about what all happened and what all I had went through and still do not fully understand why.

The truck has run perfectly this last week.



So if a bulb burns out the truck will not shift out of park ?????????

WHAT IF YOUR IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE ?????????????????????????

AND WEEKS FROM DELIVERY OF A $2.50 BULB ????????????????????????????????????????????

 

Maybe I'll dink with this today and see what I come up with....so we can compare notes.

 

All that I know is that I removed the HID's and no changes.

Next move was to remove all of the LED bulbs. Right rear was very last that I removed. When I twisted the socket of the stop/blinker the LED bulb fell out into the tail light bucket.

Since I had already removed all of the rest of the LEDS I just replaced it with the stock bulb too.

Solved EVERY ISSUE.

I just did not have any more time to trouble shoot further by trying putting all of the LEDS (and resistors) back in to see if that one bulb being loose or unplugged was causing the problems.

Im in the middle of A LOT OF STUFF trying to get ready to move up to Alaska next moth.

Ive still got a bunch of personal stuff plus a few other mods to the truck to try and get done.

 

That didn't take long.

TL;DR: All brake lamps removed, shifted from park no problem.

Details:
2011 RCSB 5.7L V8 60K miles w/factory tow package.
Factory type incandescent lamps in all locations. Although I'm the third owner the only lamps I have ever replaced were the front turn signals as the PO had clear bulbs in those locations; replaced with amber. It could realistically and reasonably be assumed that all other lamps are factory installed.

I removed the passenger tail/brake lamp and turned the key to Run and it shifted from park (first depressing the brake pedal, I also checked to make certain that it wouldn't shift without pressing the brake pedal). I thought, could it be that.....so I started the engine and it still shifted from park without issue.

Next I removed that driver side tail/brake lamp (without reinstalling the passenger tail/stop lamp) and tested again both with the engine off and running. It shifted from park without issue.

Then I thought.....and so I then also removed the lamp for the third brake lamp at the top of the cab and tested with the engine off and running. It shifted from park without issue.

I have towed with this vehicle, but as yet, not a trailer with brakes. Only a motorcycle trailer and an enclosed cargo trailer using the 4 pin connector. I'm guessing that the 7 pin has not been used judging by the undisturbed electrical grease in the socket. I have a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 brake controller for future use but it was not connected for this testing.

I cannot think of any of the electrical modifications that I've done that might affect this outside the very remote possibility that I installed a 4WD ECU from a 2008 Sequoia to control the T-case I installed from the same vehicle. I can't imagine any reason why this would make a difference.

 

All tail and brake lamps were removed, as noted.

It's possible that the function is only applied to trucks after a particular model year. (shrug)

 

Well, there's your dilemma....

 

TheRe are two stop light circuits on the truck. When the switch is engaged by the pedal, one circuit sends voltage to the brake lights. The other circuit is used by the computers on board. When it sees that signal, it turns on the shift lock solenoid to release the shifter. Lights should not effect that other circuit... however, if u were to short that light circuit or somehow modify it to send power flow a different way.... it could effect the entire stop circuit and stop shifting ability.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if messing with the circuit that the ECU looks at REALLY has a potential to make things weird.

 

@LOTSOFTOYS

Have a 2014 Tundra Sr5 and I want to activate "coming home" or "going home" option which is also called time delay for the lights after locking or unlocking the vehicle. I have noticed it's only 15 secs right now for the dome and bed light after unlocking and there is no delay for any light after locking the vehicle.

Anyway to have a 60-90 sec delay for light cutoff after locking or unlocking?
I do not have auto light feature.

 

So I hooked up my utility trailer for the first time to my <1 week old tundra, and the only lights that work are the running lights as well as the trailer brake controller. No turn signals, brake lights, or hazards work on the trailer. Any ideas? They all worked just fine when hooked up to my tacoma

 

These sound like the settings that are available via Techstream.

You'll need to get a meter and check to see if you have a signal for what you're missing at the connector at the plug on the truck.

 

Thanks. The meter has gone missing on the time I actually need it

 

@Sean266 I have Tech Stream and I'm trying to find the setting to have all doors unlock with a single tap of the remote.

Do you know where this is?

 

Excellent...let me go check it out. Thx!

 

It worked.....Thanks man! The wording in the menu was confusing though.

Another quick question.

When I start my truck I want that a/c to default to Recirc off not on.

My wife's 2013 4R Limited gets a little musty because hers does this too.

Like I mentioned before I have Tech Stream and I can go into customize the settings, but I can't find this.

Any clue if this is changeable?

 

Question.
My truck doesn't beep when I lock or unlock. I checked all the doors and it does lock. The dome light and bed light turns off after 30 secs. So it's doing everything right except beeping..

 

On the top right, what is this dial with numbers (5,4,3,2,1)??? Doesn't seem to do anything when I move it.



Headlamps auto off timer. Does this work for the Trucks with no auto on/off lamp?
Doesn't seem to work in my truck for some reason. I don't have auto on/off Headlights. I actually have spyder lights. You think that could be the reason it's not working? I remember I couldn't find the connection for one off the harness when installing spyder. I left it as is thinking it's for auto leveling headlights that I don't have.

Also, is it possible to extend the interior lights delay from 30 to 60 secs?
The max available time is 30 sec right now.

 

Got USER Manual coolhardy?

 

Thanks

Now I know why the elderly couple was waving at me last night. It was set all the way up to 5. I should bring it down to 1 or 2 then. Sorry folks...

Mine is a plain SR5 with my version of TRD. The auto feature won't work in my case then.

Interior lights.
This is a million dollar question. I need to raise it up to 60 secs at least. Help me Einsteins....

 

Nope I don't...
Nada