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NSV light bar to Switch Pros

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by wire89, Sep 28, 2019.

  1. Sep 28, 2019 at 3:49 PM
    #1
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    I’m trying to sort out the connection of my NSV light bar (current gen) to my Switch Pros 9100 unit in a 2019 Tundra, which has stock LED headlights and DRL.

    I basically pulled apart all the wire harnesses and diagrammed the paths. Jensen at NSV was kind enough to tell me what each color controlled (all colors listed refer to the harness, not the light bar leads). He also warned me, which I’ll do here as well, that the light bar may not fully function as designed if not connected per instructions.

    Pin 1- red/blk, ignition
    Pin 2- red small gauge, 12v reference
    Pin 3- empty
    Pin 4- red large gauge, 12v power
    Pin 5- green, swipe
    Pin 6- brown, off-road
    Pin 7- orange, indicators
    Pin 8- yellow, DRL
    Pin 9- blue, illumination power
    Pin 10- white, high beam
    Pin 11- purple, low beam
    Pin 12- black, ground

    I started my tests by nipping the blue wire (which I need to do anyway for the recommended install) and connecting to a constant hot and of course hooking up the battery leads. I then connected the switch load wires (brown, green, and yellow) to the SP9100. Using only default settings in SP9100 app I was successful in turning on/off the DRL with yellow lead to pin 8 and the swipe with green lead to pin 5. I was also able to operate the strobe with a switch lead plugged into pin 3. Each of these operates independently without any other wires connected, in other words, connect only the yellow wire to SP and give blue constant hot then DRLs turn on/off without any additional SP programming.

    What did not work, surprisingly, was the brown wire to pin 6 for the main off-road light. All connections had proper continuity, all fuses good, all voltages good. When I activated the SP switch on the brown wire I had a full voltage reading at the 12 pin harness, so the juice was getting that far at least. Moving the brown wire around to pins 3,5, and 8 still properly operated those functions.

    The NSV interior switches all have three wires in common:
    Blue- illumination, presumably of the switch on/off light
    Red/black- ignition
    Black- ground. They feed from the interior dash harness patch, which also connects the white and purple wires above back to light bar. Since the off-road switch is wired the same as swipe and DRL, it didn’t make sense immediately why the off-road wouldn’t work. I suspected the internal relay for off-road needs another signal to make the connection when high beams are used. I think off-road is the only function that requires activation of high beams. I tried connecting the white wire for high beam to constant power but that did not work. At that point I stopped experimenting. Tomorrow I will change one of my SP triggers to high beam and see if some programming changes the results.

    Is there something in the headlight patch harness (which is not hooked up) that I might be missing, that signals high beams as being on? Any feedback or suggestions would be super appreciated, not much detailed information out there for use with SP9100, and as many know NSV does not distribute a wiring diagram. Cheers to Jensen though for entertaining my questions.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2019
    Occidentalis likes this.
  2. Sep 29, 2019 at 6:02 PM
    #2
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    Experiment Take Two

    Started the morning by pulling apart steering column cover to install the NSV headlight switch T harness. Goal was to to connect purple and white wires as per instructions. I still left green, yellow, and brown unconnected on the interior as those would go to SP. I also left red/blk unconnected as the SP switches were all set to function on IGNITION. Before doing anything else I went through all OEM light settings to get a voltage baseline.
    All lights off:
    Purple - full voltage
    White - 0v
    Auto / DRL:
    Purple - full voltage
    White - 0v
    Low beam:
    Purple - 0v
    White - 11.2v
    High beam:
    Purple - 0v
    White - 0v

    Sooo...seeing the zeros at high beam immediately made me wonder if I blew an internal light bar relay or similar disaster when I hooked up white to constant hot yesterday. I proceeded.... I hooked up the light bar with white and purple to the interior headlight switch and blue still going to battery as yesterday. Same results, everything worked except off-road.

    I then hooked up the headlight body T harness, and for my model included the headlight motor patch harness, as per original instructions. The blue is now tapped into the OEM purple wire and NOT connected to constant hot. Unplugging and replugging that triangular motor connector was the most aggravating so far. Prior to connecting the light bar I did another check on voltage.
    All lights off:
    Purple - full voltage
    White - 11.3v (previously 0v)
    Auto / DRL:
    Purple - full voltage
    White - 10.9v (previously 0v)
    Low beam:
    Purple - 0v
    White - 11.2v
    High beam:
    Purple - 0v
    White - 0v

    Same results, everything worked except off-road. At this point, the only wire on the 12 pin connector not used is the red/blk to pin 1. And here is how everything functioned:
    Swipe (strobe) worked on all OEM light settings
    DRL worked on OEM parking, low beam, and high beam
    Momentary swipe worked on vehicle lock/unlock

    With light bar still connected, while checking to make sure power was getting from here to there, I noticed some changes in voltage.
    High beam - purple and white remained at 0v
    Low beam - purple remained at 0v but the white was 4.7v. Pull white from the 12 pin harness and it reads back at 11.2v
    DRL / Auto - purple remained near full voltage but white was 4.7v. Pull white from 12 pin harness and it reads back at 10.9v

    Next, maybe last, attempt will be to connect the pin 1 red/blk to an ignition source and keep the yellow, brown, and green on the SP module. If that doesn’t work, I’ll install per instructions to see if I blew the thing up. Until then, if anyone has comments, feedback, suggestions...I’m open. Thx
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2019
  3. Oct 2, 2019 at 7:00 PM
    #3
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    Good news...the light bar works. I first connected everything per instructions to see if it was damaged. To my surprise, and enjoyment, it worked. The only thing I'll say about suggested install is that the red off-road NSV switch does NOT work when high beams are activated in the headlight AUTO setting. The light bar would only turn on/off with the red NSV switch when the high beams were activated in the HEADLIGHTS setting on the steering column switch.

    I then disconnected the red/blk from an interior ignition wire and reconnected it to constant hot. Using the NSV switch to activate the light bar I got the same results. Then disconnecting the NSV switches entirely, I left the red/blk connected to constant hot and connected the brown Pin 6 back wire to my SP unit. At this point, all wires are connected at the 12 pin harness and only the purple and white are connected to the interior 6 pin harness which go to the steering column T harness. I was able to fully operate all modes, including strobe, using SP buttons.

    To further test what was actually necessary, I disconnected the blue pin 9 wire from the 12 pin harness and was still able to operate the light bar.

    I will fully complete the install this weekend and report back any new observations. In the meantime, here is what I can summarize as a working Switch Pros 9100 connection strategy (again, i'm summarizing this through my own experimentation, it was not suggested by NSV or Headlight Revolution, and I took all responsibility for possible damage):
    - Install interior headlight switch harness to steering column
    - Feed purple pin 11 and white pin 10 wires through firewall for connection to light bar harness (protect all other wires as needed)
    - Connect red/blk pin 1 wire on the 12 pin harness to constant hot (or maybe to an ignition circuit in the fuse box using an add-a-fuse)
    - connect the brown, yellow, and/or green wires, depending on the functions you want to use, to the desired SP module leads

    This should result in most functions. If the lock/unlock swipe function is desired then the headlight patch harness is needed in order to tap into the orange wire. Perhaps the blue is also required here but I'm not certain.
     
  4. Dec 15, 2019 at 1:43 PM
    #4
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    A discovery made...factory fog light switch at the steering column headlight selector did not turn fog lights on. If i disconnect the interior patch harness and reconnect per factory setup then the fog lights go on/off as they are supposed to. Leads to me believe that the patch harness does not fully mesh with 2019 factory wiring. I'll inquire with Jensen, but in the meantime, can anyone identify which color wire on the pin connector under th esteeming column is for the fog lights? thx
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2019
  5. Dec 15, 2019 at 2:26 PM
    #5
    Toyotoholic

    Toyotoholic -4Life-

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  6. Jan 19, 2020 at 3:44 PM
    #6
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    Took me a while to get to this. The issue was definitely in the steering column patch harness, but totally my bad. Out of the patch harness there are two purple wires, two white wires, and two black wires. The two purple and two white wires each join to one purple and one white and go through the fire wall. The black wires had also joined in the original wiring loom to provide three ground wires to the NSV switches. When I pulled all this apart to abandon use of the NSV switch I cut the black wires above the solder joint and forgot to reconnect them. So all I had to do is connect those two blacks to get the continuous ground through the patch harness and off to the ECU (thanks to the ‘any time fog light’ write ups to explain how the fog lights get their power).
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2020
  7. Feb 4, 2020 at 1:47 PM
    #7
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    Got around to drawing up my wiring mod diagram for connecting the light bar to the SwitchPro unit. The dashed lines indicate what I did differently, and the base diagram IS NOT from NSV.

    Document1 Page 002.jpg
     
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  8. Feb 5, 2020 at 7:39 PM
    #8
    Toyotoholic

    Toyotoholic -4Life-

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    Very nice.
    When you're engaging the functions from the switch pro, how are you outputting the negative (-) for those functions? The NSV switches output a ground signal (neg-) for those functions, when the switch pro has 8. Positive(+) outputs? Are you running them through additional relays? Or am I missing something?
     
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  9. Feb 6, 2020 at 5:33 PM
    #9
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    @Toyotoholic, as an initial clarification, the ‘Switch-Pros module’ that I illustrate in the diagram is the main unit under the hood, not the interior 8-button panel. When I engage a function from the interior Switch-Pros panel it is only sending a signal to the under hood module To perform a defined set of functions. There are no positive or negative leads off the interior 8-button panel. and I’ve not added any other relays.
     
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  10. Feb 6, 2020 at 6:28 PM
    #10
    Toyotoholic

    Toyotoholic -4Life-

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    I understand that it's just a data bus between the touch panel and the actual switch output base. But I thought the outputs from the base were 12+ (positive) only 4@ 20a 4@ 35a with bi-wiring. The information I got from Jenson was that the main light bar inputs from their switches (green, brown, and yellow) were in fact negative or grounding inputs, and the 12+ supply for the bar was the positive. When you output from your SP, aren't you sending a 12+ to those inputs?
     
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  11. Feb 6, 2020 at 7:42 PM
    #11
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    Based on that info from Jensen I see where you’re coming from. I spoke to him a few times on this and did not get that same info, though for obvious reasons he was not super detailed on how to make it work. You’re right in that the Switch-Pros base sends out a positive output to the light bar. I’ll post up the original harness diagram I drew to see if that helps answer anything.
     
  12. Feb 6, 2020 at 7:46 PM
    #12
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    original harness

    Document1 Page 001.jpg
     
  13. May 10, 2020 at 7:41 PM
    #13
    fisherman951

    fisherman951 MT dreams

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    So what’s the easy way to do this?
     
  14. Aug 31, 2020 at 6:03 AM
    #14
    Beesta

    Beesta New Member

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    Hello guys it seems you all are guru on this install ... the youtube video shows cutting the blue wire from the T harness. Now that being said i dont have driver side turn signal ... please help . Thanks
     
  15. Apr 4, 2021 at 7:20 PM
    #15
    agjohnson3221

    agjohnson3221 New Member

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    NSV Light Bar, Back seat air compressor
    I installed an NSV on a 2021 Tundra TRD Pro (which has the LED headlights and auto headlights). Everything except the left blinker works as it should. I’ve double checked the pins on the main wiring harness and all is good there.

    With the blue wire cut on the patch harness to the headlight (at the headlight) the left rear blinker works but the two front headlights both flash their LED accent lighting but no blinker functions on either. The right blinker works as it should but the left blinker makes both front headlights flicker in a weird way with their “accent” lights - the ones around the perimeter of the headlight. However, if the headlights are on, they stay on as normal and it appears as though nothing is happening to the front headlights with the left blinker on.

    If I reconnect the blue wire then the blinker shorts out and nothing works at all including the blinker signal on the dash or the left rear blinker.

    I’m not sure where to go from here - I did see the trouble shooting column say that re-pinning the blinker may be necessary?

    Lastly, I did get all the switches to fit and work but the wires are very tight to do so and I’d like to purchase the 3-in-1 switch that’s mentioned on your YouTube video but can’t find it on your website.

    Thanks for your trouble,
    Allen
     
  16. Jun 5, 2021 at 12:23 PM
    #16
    619Iron

    619Iron Desert Diva

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    Method NV wheels 0 offset with Micky Thompson 36” tires and TRD wheel caps , fox 2.5 DSC coil overs, Camburg KINETIC UCA's, TRD front & Rear sway Bars, TRD Skid plate, Addictive Desert Stealth Fighter front Bumper, Rigid 40" curved Light Bar, 2 BAJA DESIGNS 10" AMBER driving lights, Baja Designs 40" ONX6 and S8 Amber behind the grill lights, 40" Radiance SR Pro RBGW light bar in hood Bulge, Rigid DSS pro Ditch Lights, pro Comp RGBW rock lights. Amp running boards with custom red LED lighting system, Custom TRD dual air intake with use of GTEK fab and 4" Spector intake tube and Mishimoto silicone fittings, AFE throttle body spacer, Dual Switch Pro 9100 lighting & electrical systems, Pedal commander, Warn Zeon 10K S Platinum winch, SDHQ dual battery Kit with Power steering Upgrade. TRD Pro Front Grill, with Color Matched Hood bulge, Coach Builder Shackles and coil over spacers, Coach Builder bump stops and bushings. Coach Builder tie rods, and steering bushings, IKON RST leaf springs, SDHQ traction bars, Dirty Deeds straight exhaust with Helmholtz resonator, RCV front axles, Total Chaos lower control arms, and Camburg spindles. SDHQ Arb on board twin compressor.
    Aside from the NSV Bar having the DRL function & The night rider functions, It's not a very powerful light bar 9K lumens for 1000.00 bucks. I mean you can get the 4WDKING lights that are 28k lumens, run a voltage regulator switch for DRL function , and then you can power on your Light with or without high beams being on; right from your switch Pro's. Leave the night rider function to Hasselhoff, i would rather have the brighter light especially for off roading. Light total cost 119.00, custom brackets made from stainless steel with existing plastic hood bulge insert modified to accommodate light bar 25.00, direct mount to DRL light function through fuse box with a resistor model for dimmable controls 30.00, yes LED"s can be dimmed. Total cost to set up, 2 hrs of time, and parts 175.00 plus some wire loom. Much better set up. Your paying for a lot of plug and play features and less light with the NSV. If you are not comfortable with the less expensive light. Go all out and spend the big bucks on BAJA DESIGNS S8 light and your right back at 1K. If you are running the switch pro the best options for lighting is custom mod the HOOD Bulge to accommodate better lighting, what less hassle, a lot more user friendly. JUST my personal opinion and not a stated fact. I will post pics when I have more time
     
    GWill likes this.
  17. Jul 14, 2021 at 9:55 AM
    #17
    tjameson

    tjameson New Member

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    I realize this thread is old and don't know if it is still being monitored. But I have a problem with my truck after trying to install an NSV light bar. My truck is a 2018 Tundra Limited. After installing the light bar, which functions properly, I now am blowing my taillamp fuse as well as my EFI2 fuse and my IGN fuse under the hood. The truck turns over but will not start. I have rechecked all of my pinnings and all appear to be correct. I have tried removing the patch harness to the headlamp assembly. I have double checked the under dash power supply which I took off the cigarette light connection. I have repinned to account for the front marker light recall. I have tried tracking down the short with zero success. I have reached out to Headlight Revolution, they were responsive but couldn't offer a solution. I reached out to Jensen at NSV he sent me a replacement harness. I installed it and the problem still persists. Any input would be welcome.
     
  18. Jul 14, 2021 at 3:58 PM
    #18
    619Iron

    619Iron Desert Diva

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    Check to see if you have a late 2018 model Tundra, as your wire harness would match 2019 specifications as Toyota made changes in late 2018, which was the beginning of the 2019 year vehicles. I see the convince of running the NSV light bar, because it’s plug & play, but it has too much vehicle integration issues surrounding it. I’m all about running the light bar in the hood bulge, but for 1000.00 bucks you shouldn’t have all these issues. I personally would ditch the NSV light bar and run a Baja designs S8, or a Rigid Radiance SR pro 40” light in there with the SDHQ mounting kit. Run the wiring through the hood just like the guidance video shows and add a Deutch connector and run it to a Switch-Pros module, or a separate switch to the empty switch opening next to the cigarette charging station already in the truck. Best of luck to you on the issue. Just a suggestion.
     
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  19. Nov 3, 2022 at 6:00 PM
    #19
    hightechcoonass

    hightechcoonass New Member

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    Anyone have a pic of the lightbar itself? I still haven't fixed mine. The triggers to turn on the different modes fire (I have herd) are just a 12vdc positive signal. I can get any mode to fire. I may need to pull it out of the hood and see it I can tear into it. The factory guys a paranoid of law suits and wont offer any help.

    Image if KC light or Baja only made lights that HAD TO tie into your factory wiring harness and had to use headlight status as a "Lights ON" permissive. Crazy.
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2023
  20. May 26, 2023 at 10:33 AM
    #20
    Beesta

    Beesta New Member

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    Hello, quick question. If I re- pin 8 to pin 3 on the hood bulge which is DRL to Strobe would it still function the DRL like normal but trigger the strobe feature. I just dont use my DRL at all. Thanks
     
  21. May 27, 2023 at 11:00 AM
    #21
    Chad D.

    Chad D. New Member

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    Not knocking a fella for figuring this stuff out, but WOW!!! Sure seems like a lot of work to make a mediocre amount of light. I suppose everything has a market, but I just can’t wrap my head around this one. BD money for Amazon light…
     
  22. May 27, 2023 at 10:02 PM
    #22
    Occidentalis

    Occidentalis Out Snakin'

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    If you don't like the nsv light bar go whine in another thread. This one is about wiring and integration details.
     
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  23. May 31, 2023 at 8:23 PM
    #23
    hightechcoonass

    hightechcoonass New Member

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    Please respect member opinions.

    Please show us your wiring diagram with the switch pro! I don't think anyone has done this yet. That's why some maybe frustrated with their $1000 light bar.

    Is good to show the positives and the negatives in a forum so members can make informed choices!
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2023
  24. Jun 3, 2023 at 12:13 PM
    #24
    hightechcoonass

    hightechcoonass New Member

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    I got it! this will work with a Switch Pro positive trigger! (Green is SWIPE not STROBE)

    Pin 1- red/blk, ignition (12vdc + ) power up when the key is turned on)
    Pin 2- red small gauge, (12vdc +)
    Pin 3- empty
    Pin 4- red large gauge, 12vdc + power
    Pin 5- green, swipe light function!! (hot trigger 12VDC + trigger!) (from customer provided selector switch)
    Pin 6- brown, off-road entire light bar on high! (hot trigger 12VDC + trigger!) (from customer provided selector switch)
    Pin 7- orange, indicators (no connection!!!)
    Pin 8- yellow, DRL ( 12vdc Hot triggered! two outside lights on bar on on high) (from customer provided selector switch)
    Pin 9- blue, (12vdc hot trigger! two outside light on bar on low mode)
    Pin 10- white, high beam ( 12vdc negative!!!)
    Pin 11- purple, low beam ( 12VDC negative !!) tells the light bar the low beam are on?) (ground this i think) (normally from steering wheel headlight switch)
    Pin 12- black, ground (12 VDC negative !!)


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2023
  25. Jun 3, 2023 at 2:23 PM
    #25
    hightechcoonass

    hightechcoonass New Member

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    Toyotoholic, the trigger signals are 12VDC positive.
     
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  26. Jun 3, 2023 at 9:37 PM
    #26
    Toyotoholic

    Toyotoholic -4Life-

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    :thumbsup:
     

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