Ask the Detailer

I want to start doing some rinseless washes on my black truck only when it's lightly dirty/dusty.

I was watching a vid the other day with the grand poo bah of rinseless Yvan using a DIY rinceless. He said to add 1oz per gal of wash water, my onr says 1oz/2 gal. Just wondering if any on here add that much onr to the water or is 1oz enough?

I plan on rinsing the truck first with onr (1oz/2 gal?) then using 4/5 wash mitts in a bucket of onr for contact and finish with onr as a detail to help dry.

My truck is coated by the way (me). Any other tips for this type of wash or is it just to risky on black?

 

Sounds like the Gary Dean method but with wash mitts. I don't think you're gonna have enough solution in the bucket with that many mitts.
I'd just go the sponge route if it's not really dirty. I seem to have streaking with ONR using as a drying aid everytime. Nothing major just enough to bother me at the right angle that I have to buff off.
I'd say with black just make sure you keep clean and possibly not reuse anything on each wash until it's been through the wash. If you don't have grit guards get some also.
I'm sure someone else will chime in because you've been brave enough to buy a black truck!

 

I plan on 2gal or so to throw the mitts into, use once and discard. What ratio of onr did you use when washing and using it as a drying aid?

 

I've tried it at 256:1(wash solution right outta the bucket before washing of course) and the 16:1 they recommend. I've noticed it either way.

 

Any recommendations for some good detailing brushes? Right now I am just using a Purdy paint brush, and it does work but I'd like to get some real brushes. Appreciate any help.

 

I've noticed a lot of detailers using the ones from Work Stuff (link...https://work-stuff.com/products/brushes). I've been using these Amazon cheapies for years with no issues.....

$6 Detailing Brush Set -5 Different Sizes Premium Natural Boar Hair Mixed Fiber Plastic Handle Automotive Detail Brushes for Cleaning Wheels, Engine, Interior, Air Vents, Car, Motorcy

https://www.amazon.com/Detailing-Brush-Set-Different-Automotive/dp/B07PKT21PR?crid=1XL1XAPEYOJE4&keywords=detailing+brushes&qid=1684946166&sprefix=detailing+brushes%2Caps%2C113&sr=8-6.

For nav screens....I went with these:https://www.detailedimage.com/Detai...oft-Detail-Brush-Synthetic-Gray-P2352/Set-S3/

 

A three legged cat tried to jump onto my bed cover, didn’t quite make it, and scratched the snot out of my bedside. Is this something I could expect a detailer to fix up? Or do I need full-on paint correction?

Hard to see here, but there are three marks like this down the bedside near my fuel door.

 

Does your fingernail catch in any of the scratches? If not, it should be fairly easy to correct...especially given how soft Toyota clear coat typically is

 

I can easily feel the scratches. Seems a lot worse than one would expect.

 

Cats claws do more damage than you might think. If you're not going to attempt it yourself, take it to a detailer and get their opinion.

 

Want to protect my saddle brown leather seats in my '23 1794 - Are these seats aniline leather? Was going to use Gyeon's leather shield ceramic protection, but it says not to use it on aniline leather. Does anyone know?

 

Found this link on toyota canada's site, mentiins the Capstone using semi-aniline leather. https://www.toyota.ca/toyota/en/abo...de-elevates-2022-toyota-tundra-to-new-heights

This link talks about semi-aniline being similar to aniline but covered with a top coat.https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aniline_leather

 

Thank you, using your info - I went hunting - and found that the 1794 just has regular leather, and the capstone has the semi-aniline - so I'm good to go it seems on my 1794

 

What product seems to work best for you guys to clean tires? Recently got Meguiar's D1430.

 

most modern leathers in automotive use have a top coat. So rubbing some leather feed onto a leather seat is generally a waste.
You do want to clean dirt & oils off the seat, but you're usually cleaning it off the top coat, The leather is nicely protected below.
Maybe in a bespoke Rolls, Ferrari, or such - but in mass production vehicles, it's less likely. I'd suggest digging a little deeper into that 'regular' leather to see if it isn't also top coated.

 

I personally use optimum power clean. I cut it at about a 2-1 ratio since I pretty much use it just for in my wheel wells and on my tires to prep them.

 

I've not bought a dedicated wheel or tire cleaner for years. I use Bilt Hamber Surfex HD at 10:1. I do have it mixed at 5:1 if the tires are really bad, or are receiving a coating as opposed to a dressing. If wheels are really bad, I will use an iron remover as well. I know there are situation that call for an acid, but I've just not run into that yet.

 

Simple green gets it done. I don’t find tires to be difficult. All my wheels have coatings and just take soap water and some MF to wipe down

 

Need a wash pole and was looking at the Incredipole but dam it's 69.00. Anything cheaper that you guys like?

 

That’s a great product. Get what ya pay for

 

I have one....love it...only down side is how heavy it gets when its wet

 

Can i spread out a 3 step paint correction over the course of 2 weekends or does it have to be done all at once?

If I do spread it out, what precautions or extra washes etc, should I perform in between?

We did the wash, iron remover yesterday. Tar remover last night. Today we did a clay bar.

This will be the first time we have ever done one. Truck is coming up on 4y, minor scuffs and brush marks from.camping/fishing. We will be using a Griots G9 polisher and matching 3 step liquids/pastes/wax etc

 

I couldn't do my whole truck in one sitting a few weeks ago ( polish, seal, wax) so I basically did one process at a time and spread the whole thing out over a week. I just did a re-wash before each of the steps. Turned out fine IMO.

 

It’s expensive, but I’ve had mine for years and it’s never broken. All the cheap ones I ever had did.

 

^^^^Best advice you are gonna get^^^^^

 

Are you driving in between each step or parking inside a garage? Nothing wrong with spreading it out if you wash it or wipe off the dust (If it stays in the garage) before moving on. Wax will be a waste of time, wont last more than a few weeks. Invest in a paint sealant or ceramic instead...its about the same effort to apply as wax but lasts substantially longer

 

We decided to do all 3 stages today.

Stage 1 done. Stage 2 after perogie lunch. Stage 3 after that.

We will do wax this time and look at a sealant for future use.

Put the kid to work, he likes working on the truck. He's working the polisher and I'm taping and hand buffing off.

 

please post pics of the finished product. As an aside....if you're looking for a sealant, look no further than Jescar Ultra Lock Plus. Far and away the easiest product I've worked with.....ridiculously easy to apply and remove....6 months of protection with great gloss and slickness...apply by machine...Griots red finishing pads are perfect for this task.