Irrigation system to water trees using PVC ?

So we have some small trees and plants that we planted along the back part of our property. Right now I just have a long water hose running back there with soaker hoses. Well, it sucks, ha.

What I want to do is run 1/2" PVC pipe from the house to the back of the property and T out across to each way. Since I'll have it all barried, my main question is; what is the best way to come from the PVC, out of the ground and end at the base of the tree?

I thought about making my own water hose pieces, or using some kind of drip irrigation hose. I'm kind of stumped at that part. Anyone done anything like this that can share some advice? Also, I'm going to use about 300 feet of PVC pipe, would 1/2" be the best way to keep water pressure to get that far?

Thanks..!

-Wes

 

What my dad did years ago was from both bathrooms in house was the shower water and sink water ran from pipes to outside edge of house n connected 1" hose n moved hose to wherever he wanted to water other idea he did was get 4 55gal drums n collected rain water from rain gutter

 

I've tapped into the water main in the past with pvc and brass fittings and I also used 3/4 in schedule 40 PVC to run along whatever I needed to water. I initially calculated how many pipes and connections I need...I realized it was a waste of time so I decided to buy packs of connectors, 90 degree connectors and 4 extra PVC pipes in case.

I hope that helps.

 

So for that distance and having several watering spots, you think a 3/4" pipe would work best? I was thinking 1/2" would keep more pressure, but what do I know, ha.

 

@zcarpenter92

 

I asked the guys from Home Depot when I was working on mine and they recommended 3/4 in but I'm not the expert. I also want to point out that you check how much pressure you have before you do all the work.

 

I have no idea what the water pressure is. How do you even test it, ha.

 

I had a drip system installed to irrigate (40) blueberry bushes before the season started this year.
It's not hard to set up. I have (2) 1 gallon drip emitters per bush. I have them on a timer where they all get 2 hrs of water or four gallons a day when they are producing blueberries. You could set something like this up and water every other day until the fall. It's pretty easy to set up yourself. I even added a drip line to my garden. Drip systems are really efficient, putting water right where you need it.

I came off my PVC line with brown 1/2" flexible drip tubing. You just push the emitters (sharp points) into the tubing where you want the emitters located. I would suggest about 6-8 inches out from the trunk or further. Then cover with mulch around where the emitters are and it will soak the mulch. Hope this helps.

 

300' is a long way for a 1/2 pipe and at that distance it will come out slow and very low volume. Go 3/4" at least or even 1" if you have it available. For watering multiple trees/bushes you don't need pressure, you'll need volume and I am not confident you'll be happy at that distance of run.

Use schedule 80 (grey) fittings and schedule 40 (white) pipe. Schedule 40 fittings (white) are the weak link and have had to replace them after time. For a little more cost, the schedule 80 could save you from having to revisit it later. You could possibly get by with schedule 40 fittings but absolutely do not use schedule 20 (white also) pipe as it is very thin and you'll have to revisit also for trying to save a few dollars. At each plant location use a slip (glue) x female threaded 90 or a slip x slip x female tee. Then get a nipple that you can cut to desired length and put an adjustable bubbler on top to regulate flow. If it's a smaller bush 1/2" will do or you can find a distribution block and run drip line to bush. For larger trees, I'd opt for 3/4" outlets. You will have to play with the bubblers and timer to appropriately water each plant off of one station.... or just the bubblers and length of time left running if no timer and solenoid is used. Somewhere in the middle to end (depending on your arrangement) you can go from 1" to 3/4" and be fine.

Here's some pics of fittings. There are other options for transitioning from PVC to drip.... google irrigation drip line manifold or go to the local hardware or irrigation supply store.

 

I haven't done an irrigation system in decades but the irrigation supply houses have free brochures with line drop flow tables from companies like rainbird. I'm pretty sure on a run this long you're gonna want to run at least 1 1/4" for about 1/2 the distance then reduce to 1", and reduce again after a bit to 3/4".
The brochure will also tell you how many bubblers at x volume you can run on x ft of 1/2" line etc.
DO SOME RESEARCH BEFORE YOU START SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO RE-DO IT

 

This may help clear it up for the outlets at each tree

 

@Radworker has some good advise there. There's no way you'll be happy with 300' of .5" Honestly, I'd use at least 1" and reduce at your tee. You still get the pressure increase where you reduce. I've got a 1" line from my water tank (pressurized) running 125' and it's too small. My neighbors, I found out, are running 1.5 - 2".
I've had some issues with the risers depicted above. I might try a flexible riser next time. There are fittings for connecting pvc to drip. With the drip you'll have a lot of options for emitters. I prefer a sprayer because it gets to more of the roots and supposedly collects a little nitrogen from the air too. Good luck with your project.

 

So I guess I have no clue on this then, haha. Yeah I had planned on just using Ts at each plant. Come off with a threaded end and put a nipple on it and some kind of tubing coming out of the ground to the base of the tree. I thought to leave it open flow but I guess it would run too much water and not get all the way to the end, huh?

Here is a quick diagram..

 

Larger than 1" is probably where you really need to be. Like @gosolo said, go and do a little homework and calculate distance run, amount of outlets and size accordingly. I jumped the gun and suggested 3/4" or 1" because my estimation that it is unlikely you have above 1" or 1 1/4" in which it will probably take to "properly" size your sysytem. As for the riser, even though I've never had a problem with the nipples, I'd heed the @16tunterd OE and you could get a schedule 80 nipple pre made to your desired length. Having a threaded 90 or tee in the ground makes it easy to repair if your head gets bumped and broken off vs a glued fitting.

 

Yeah, you'll appreciate the need to regulate flow based on the specific tree/bush. And if you get dripper emitters and bubblers and you don't have the proper size water supply you can restrict flow and run water longer and evenly water each plant according to its needs within the same time frame. In short, you can adjust each outlet so you finish watering all at the same time without overwatering some things and/or having to go out and kill water to some things while the others finish up.

If they are all along the perimeter to distinguish your property and is not a visual concern, I'd opt for all bubblers. Drip lines overall is a weak material (there is good stuff) and can tend to plug up easy. Bubblers are easy to maintain. Now, if it's around a walkway or where it is a highly visible and decorative area, drip is great because its inconspicuous.

 

.... and to give you an idea, if you just had open ends on all outlets, depending on sizing and pressure, you'd probably give the first few more water than the latter. Having adjustable emitters will help you balance it out and avoid over watering some and underwater the remaining. And in the end, if it's balanced, they all finish at the same time.
Are you planning on putting this on a timer and using solenoid valves or manually turning a valve on and returning to shut it off?

 

The trees and bushes are all on the back side of my property. I wanted to run PVC underground so I didn't have what I have now and a water hose laying across the yard, makes it difficult to mow. Plus I have soaker hoses running probably 70 feet across which isn't doing anything but watering everything in between. That's why I had the idea to use PVC to run it directly where I wanted. I do have a timer that I can adjust to come on as I want. If I got more direct water to them, I could probably water less time, less often.

I'll have to research the dripper emitters and bubblers as I dont have a clue what those are, or how they fit in the line.

 

I'd create a diagram and go into a dedicated irrigation supply house if you got one. Include type of plant in it and have and idea of how much water it needs a day/week. Also, know what size water supply is available.

The thing is, if your doing a timer and solenoid valves, you will need your valves close to your irrigation area. Then, based on how many plants and how much water they need will dictate how many valves you need. You may have 3-? valves, one per zone. This could help your sizing because you can run each zone at separate times in which it reduces the water demand at one specific time. Also, with multiple stations, your bushes station may need a pressure reducer after the solenoid IF you use drippers because you don't want it to spray but to trickle.... bubblers, you won't because you can adjust it to prevent spraying.

As stated, I'd opt for all bubblers in non visible areas and avoid drip. This all probably seems more intimidating than it really is but if you can get someone to help you size it and guide you to parts, it's really easy... kinda like me and the how-to videos on Tacoma World. Bump this thread tomorrow while all of the responsible are awake and it's a good possibility that someone can guide you more if you have a diagram with footage drawn out.

I've given the little info I know and wish you the best.

 

Yeah, trying to understand it all. Thanks for everything you've shared, it for sure opens my eyes to it all.

I just need someone to tell me, buy this this and this, ha.

 

John you know your stuff about irrigation brother....I am a novice at best. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Very cool!