Fed up with stereo on 2nd Gen. Help?

I have an 07 crew max with the “JBL” system. The head unit is a Kenwood but I don’t know if my speakers are busted or what. I’m not exaggerating when I say I can put my iPhone on my dash and get better sound quality. Anyway, I had to floor it the other day and it gave me a “Miswiring DC Offset Error” and doesn’t work at all now.

When I wired the radio up a couple years ago I noticed the stranded speaker wires were super thin. Like it was only for signal not for power. Could this be the issue? Do I need to rewire the speakers and sub? If so I wouldn’t think I would need the “jbl” stuff. I have an amp I’d like to install in place of the JBL amp, hook speakers and a sub up to it.
Can I just get normal 6.5 mid range speakers for doors instead of subs in doors and tweeters in the top? I have so many questions but not sure where to start. I just want a decent stereo. Any info is welcomed.

 

1 What kenwood model do you have?

2. DO you want to jeep the JBL system or bypass if?

3. How much do you want to spend if you want to upgrade?

 

I have the DDX26BT

I think I’d rather bypass it. I’m not familiar with the term “Jeep” in audio terms…?

I would say around $500. I have a 4 channel 800 watt amp and a 10” sub already from a previous vehicle that I’d like to use.

 

sorry for the spelling in Jeep Keep is what was intended to say.

If you want to bypass the JBL and start over.

I am going to list what I feel is the best option at the lowest cost.

1 what brand and model 4 channel amp do you have currently?
2 what brand, size, and model are your subwoofer?



The Kenwood DDX26bt from what I can tell in the owner's manual it does not really have any crossover settings, so you will be using the crossover options that the
4-channel amplifier has built in.


I am assuming the 4-channel amp you have now has basic crossover settings and is a true 70 watts per channel or above.


Lowest cost but still sound good option.

option 1
Silver flute 6.5 inch speaker, You can get them for $35 each, $70 for the pair. Order form Madisound speaker store. I have had a set in my tundra before. You will not do better than or find a better-quality speaker for $70, period, it can't be done.
Get a pair of Massive Audio CT2 28mm silk dome tweeters. $80 for the pair. This is a great tweeter.
The Kenwood model you have does not have the crossover settings needed so you will need a passive crossover.
Get a set of CDT audio EX-560 deluxe crossovers. $80
For $230 you will not beat this speaker setup. Don't even try shopping around at other brands or try to save $30-$40.



I am a big fan of running new speaker wire through the door boot. 100 feet of sky high audio 14 gauge is $27 on ebay. No more power than we are using CCA speaker wire is fine. If you want OFC wire it is $60 for 100 feet. Up to you if you want to spend the difference.
Speaker brackets $20 from Crutchfield or go and buy a 2x4 sheet of MDF from Home Depot and make your own. About the same cost either way.
4 channel RCA cable Crutchfield reference 12 foot $25.
Skyhigh ofc power wire for the amplifier .$2.49 foot get 20 feet $50
ANl Fuse holder under the hood $10
4 AWG gauge copper lugs with heat shrink ebay $10
Multi-function ANL fuse block on Amazon $22
NVX 12 square feet sound deadening amazon $40
NVX FRINGS65 speaker kit foam amazon $13
Various other things needed, zip ties, heat shrink, solder material, soldering iron if you don't have one, wire ferrules, $50


So, a total cost of around $500 gets you as set of good quality speakers and the equipment needed to install everything. This will allow for upgrades later if you want without having to start over from scratch.

I would use channels 1-2 to run the mids and tweeters.
And bridge channels 3-4 to the subwoofer.

I could probably cut $200 or so by using lower cost speakers and cut some cost on the install.

I did this basic install on a Silverado setup, and it sounds good. We even used lower cost speakers and did a very basic amplifier install.


Option 2
Use the same list as above but add an additional sub amplifier. there are several amplifier brands that put out a true 1000-1500 watts for around $150.
you would have to run 1 additional set of rca cables. and an extra power wire from the mulit-function fuse block to the sub amp.
Or I would get a 5-channel amp if there is no extra space under the seats for 2 amplifiers.
If using the parts list from option 1, you would not have to buy any additional materials.

Option 3
Add option 1 and 2
But make these changes. Add a dayton audio DSP 408. $214 for the DSP and Bluetooth usb interface.
If you go this option, you will not need the CDT ex560 crossover so you would be saving $80. The DSP has all the crossover settings needed. You could then run an active 3-way speaker setup.



The good thing with this if you start at Option 1, you can upgrade to Option 2, then to option 3 without having to reinstall everything and having a lot of additional cost.

PM me if you have any questions on how I did on my Tundra setup.

 

Man…this absolutely blows my mind! This is incredible information! Exactly what I needed!! Not gonna lie though I might just go with option 1 for now. Any music is better than none and/or what sounds like dash speaker only.
My amp is a Hifonics Zeus. Rms is 800w pretty sure. I believe it’s from the late 90’s lol. Hey it works great though!
My Sub is a 10” Phoenix gold xenon dual voice coil sub. And I think it’s rated for 1200watts. I also have another 10” my brother gave me that’s a Sony xplod with same specs. But I believe I’m just gonna use the phoenix gold. I have a bunch of 14 gauge speaker wire rolled up that I can use too. I think I’ll definitely run new wire to the speakers.
Thanks for everything! Im sure I’ll be messaging you as well!

 

No problem

also if I remember correct the mid 90,s hifonics Zeus amplifier did not have any crossovers built into the amp. Several amps back then were pure power output only. I could be wrong I do not remember the years they started putting crossovers in that amp. If it does not have them you will need some type of crossover for the sub.



Go with some basic electronic crossover to control the sub. The PRV 4.6 PRO. It is around $70. I have not used this one but the PRV seems to get decent reviews.
There are several other brands in this price range.
Some even have a remote bass knob to control the sub output.

Side note if that is an original hifonics Zeus amp from the 90’s.
That amp has way to much power for a set of midrange and tweeter setup.
Be sure to check voltage out of the amp to calculate the power it is actually sending to the speakers. Several videos on YouTube on how to check this with a basic multimeter.

 

I would add that the Silverflutes are very nice drivers for the price, I have a pair of them currently in a set of two way desk top speakers I made that sound fantastic, but they are a wool/paper blend and as such they will degrade if they are allowed to get wet and considering how much water actually flows inside the door when it rains, if you go this route you will need to protect them. I would add silicone boots to that list. The ones I use are made by NVX (XBAF65 foldable silicone 6.5" speaker baffles) and are available from Amazon. They also serve the same purpose as foam rings do by taking up the space between the driver and the door card or panel. My build thread located in my signature below has a part that shows exactly what I'm talking about. The amount of water that flows through the doors will surprise you.

If it where me I would not be reusing the amp or the sub in this case. The amp is class AB if memory serves and as such will put an unnecessary strain on the trucks electrical system where as a new high efficiency class D mono amp at around a thousand watts at 1 ohm will do a better job at 1/3 of the required input current plus you can find them with x-overs built in along with protection circuits that are nice to have incase you ever short a voice coil or cross a speaker wire or over heat the amp you won't destroy your amp. Plus you won't be dimming your head lights every time the base hits. With the built in electronic x-overs you can also do away with a DSP. You can pick one up at Down4Sound.com (JP-8) for around $170.00 on sale right now along with a 4 channel (JP-84) for around $200.00. The Phoenix Gold sub was a good driver but will almost certainly be to big to fit in any box that will fit behind the rear seats of the Tundra. I could be wrong as I am going off my memory. You don't need a shallow mount driver per say but the limited space behind the seat will restrict your choices to a shallow(ish) sub. No recommendations there. I'm using a pair of JL Audio 12TW3's in my ride but these are out side of your budget by what you have stated anyways. There are plenty of useable options to choose from though. My advise here would be get a 12" sub that is rated at or around 800 watts RMS with a voice coil configuration that will get you down to one ohm to get the most out of the amp I suggested. Spending a few extra dollars here will make for a much better sound system if you can afford it. It's only a few hundred bucks extra but the improvement is well worth it in my opinion.

 

As to your original post, the error message about DC offset. You need to address that. I would pull the head unit as soon as possible and check that there aren't any wires that have come undone or are shorting out . The issue might be coming from within the head unit it's self and in that case you will need a new one. But it could be triggered by a malfunctioning integration module (idatalink Maestro RR(2)) or even the JBL amp located under the front passenger seat. You will need to figure out why you have the error code. The fact that it came on after accelerating quickly might indicate some loose wiring some where so check that first. Wiggle the wires around with your hand and see if the error goes away or if there is any audible change in the sound. If you used any electrical tape to insolate any of the wires when installing the Kenwood head unit check those first as they would likely be at fault. Tip: Never use electrical tape for anything inside a vehicle. Use shrink wrap or TESA tape instead.

 

I have the same truck with JBL, and replaced the factory head unit with an eBay, Chinese unit designed for the JBL, but am yanking it because it's been plagued with connection issues and touch screen lag and no steering wheel controls.

I love my music, but want to maintain the current setup - plug and play with a new touch screen so I can be hands free and hook up my after market camera already installed. My sub sounds blown, so I may need a new speaker there.

Suggestions for what after market wiring harness would be hugely helpful. Or should I just call Crutchfield?

 

Contact James at Tech12Volt. He is a Tundra audio wizard.

 

I just replaced everything in my 2018 Platinum with The JBL garbage.

JVC 10” floating screen. KW1000Z or similar model.
Alpine 6x9 separate fronts in the doors.
Alpine 6.5” co-ax in rear doors.
2 Kicker 8” subs behind seat.
Kicker 5-channel amp. I believe it’s 75w x4 and 300 mono for subs.

It’s not earth shattering, but about a zillion times better than OEM JBL.

 

Found it, thanks! We’re in the middle of moving/building a house so I haven’t had time to mess with it but my birthday and Christmas are coming up so I’m putting together a list of all this info. I appreciate all the input and help!
BTW I read through your entire install and if I used my truck more than I do (I’ve put 12k miles on it in the 4 years I’ve had it) I would definitely be spending more money on it and probably going the route you did! That’s a freakin amazing write up!!

 

So excuse my ignorance lol… but are you referring to lining the floor with this or door panels?

Am I getting 2 pair? Front and back? Or would you recommend 6x9’s for the rear doors?

 

JT

I did just the door panels
inside and outer door skin.

On the outer skin I do not feel you need 100% coverage. There are several youtube videos on how to do this.

The door speakers, I did not have my rear door speakers connected. I am using an active 3 way set in the front. I have my 6.5 in the door. My tweeter in the sail panel, and my 3.5 inch in the factory dash location.

You do not need rear speakers. A 2 way component set in the front with a sub in the back is plenty loud.



1 What is the Goal?
2 are you keep the factory head unit?
3 are you going to use amplifiers?
4 how many ampliers are you going to use?
5 what equipment do you have already?
6 are you wanting to add a subwoofer behind the rear seat?

 

I just want to be able to “rock out” whenever I’m driving my truck. No competitions or trying to impress anybody. Too be honest if my truck sounded like my 2021 F350 work truck I’d be satisfied lol. I’ve only put 12k miles on my tundra since I got it 4 years ago so I don’t drive it much.

The factory head unit was gone when I bought the truck but the aftermarket had some issues so I changed it out with a fairly cheap kenwood head unit off Amazon. The speakers are all factory and I still have the factory JBL amp.

Yes, as stated previously I plan on using just the 1 hiphonics Zeus amplifier that I had laying around if it still works fine.

I think there’s an 8” factory sub behind the seat now but it’s questionable whether it works or not. I think the factory amp is just messed up. I have a 10” dual voice coil sub but it’s gonna be too big to go behind the seat so I might try to find a good quality 8” sub to go back in the place of the factory one. Or…Ive made sun boxes in the past so I can make a sub box to fit back there if that’d be a better option.

But I like your previous recommendations for equipment. Just getting a list together now of everything I need to buy/and or ask the wife and family for Christmas.