Everything you need to know about Upper Control Arms (UCA)

They don't appear to have any threads showing to shorten them, but maybe it's the angle.

Do you have your alignment printout?

Also take pics of your LCA pivot cams, front and rear, both sides... plus tie rod threads both sides... plus a couple of the crossmember that the LCAs bolt to.

Measure how much lift you have... wheel/hub center to fender.

 

Ok, that's a mess. Now let's see the rest of it.

Does the note say "arm" or "arms"?

 

Arms

 

I am by no means an alignment tech, but I recently gained access to the alignment rack at work; and some friends to show me how to use it. So I’m learning as I go with the adjustments.

I have a 2010 with BDS/Fox 7” kit, .25” shim on driver side. Previously had TC bushing UCA’s, but decided to switch back to OEM control arms since I don’t need the added caster.

The TC arms are great if you don’t have a drop bracket lift that corrects geometry after a lift. And I’ll eventually re use them on my 2020 mid travel build.

It drives great now: tracks straighter, and steering feels lighter. Bump steer is also reduced, but that may be from changing the rack bushings. I’ll post current alignment photos below.


Rear cam bolts should be as far “outboard” as possible for maximum positive caster and tire clearance from cab mount. The difference is substantial when you watch the tire move while adjusting.

 

I think your rear clearance will be better if you move the front cams in as far as possible and adjust the rear ones for camber. Caster should be basically the same as your method, but the wheels will be a little more inboard.

 

Yeah outboard for the rear, and inboard for the front would give the most cab mount clearance. I wasn’t sure which one was best to mess with to get camber in spec though, maybe I can try adjusting from the rear cams next time.

I want to try the Bison stop cam kit, so it probably won’t be long.