Sniv's Supercharged Tundra "Build"

That's good to know! I look forward to your review before getting myself one though

 

Just passed 268,500 miles yesterday! Finally bought a TRD sway bar for the rear before going to KOH to help me control this big bitch.



Camper plus the trailer and can am, and lots of water and fuel!



Had the shocks stiffened up about halfway, 40psi in the airbags, and like I said rear sway bar. This was the "heavy towing" setup, and seemed to work great! Truck handled great and had plenty of power as usual. Drove about 700 miles round trip.



Camper was awesome, and carrying an extra 30gal of water for what felt like unlimited length showers was great. A tarp over the shower tent kept it really warm like a sauna which was nice. Most comfortable setup I've been to KOH with. Heater, bed, kitchen, outdoor shower, and the table/couch area was setup to hold my race gear.



And a handful of racing photos. Lots of issues with my buddies racecar but he got it fixed. I preran about 100 miles of course in my Can Am. We made it 119 miles (out of ~160) during the UTV race and ended up blowing three CVs and two tires and eventually timed out. Raul Gomez won the 4400 class for the first time, maybe next year I can try and race 4400 but I doubt it.

 

271250 mile update.



At 270638 I installed a Radium Catch Can since Ive been having lean out codes when I come to a stop and the PCV hose has been looking gross so suspected that was leaking and may as well upgrade it. Installed it last week and so far no more CELs!



Also my passenger side Morimoto headlight got condensation in it after a car wash. Need to contact them, though at least it only lasted for a day and has dried out but obviously a seal is broken somewhere. Seems somewhat inevitable with aftermarket headlights, was hoping being direct from Morimoto would be better about the quality...





Changed the oil on Wednesday at 270693 and then loaded up the camper and drove to Moab for a race I was codriving in.



A flop, a broken frame, a roll, a destroyed front end, and four blown tires between qualifying and the main race! Got the car recovered and I packed up at 9pm and home by 1:30am!

 

277,059 mile update.

Changed the engine oil/filter, flushed the ATF, changed the tcase oil, flushed the brake fluid, changed the cabin air filter, swapped the engine air filter for an AFE dry, new IKH22 spark plugs, and changed the fan clutch.

Still need to flush the steering but ran out of ATF.









Also bought a dragy and got 5.58s 0-60 at 5500ft which doesn't seem too shabby.



Due to the elevation I'm at I'm effectively 5-6psi short of what a stock Magnuson at sea level would be putting out, so I designed a modular coupler since the ones on the market seem to suck, and will probably get some machined in the near future.



The end

 

This looks like something that might be up your alley
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/norweld-weekender-canopy.235532/

 

That is extremely cool! If I didn't need a truck bed so often I'd consider it

 

279,160 mile update. Lots of towing things around Utah in September and October.





Did a dragy run down the hill at lower elevation and got 5.13s 0-60 which I wish was better. This was at 6.7psi which is ~20.1psi manifold pressure, or ~5.4psi at sea level.



Now for the exciting stuff, my pulleys showed up weeks ahead of schedule!











Everything looks and fits absolutely amazing! 7075-T6 pulleys and 17-4PH stainless hub. Tore everything apart yesterday and got it back together today.



The supercharger shaft is 0.663", which is the same diameter I measured from the stock pulley. Luckily the place I bought the pulleys from had a +-.001" tolerance so I downsized my original 0.663" bore to 0.662" with the intention I could bore it out if needed. The hub came at the exact size I specified, which was actually great because the if it was a match fit there'd be hardly any pressing going on! I also feel really dumb since for some reason I didn't analyze the press fit, which in retrospect seems really easy since I know the strain failure of the 17-4 stainless so can size the press on that. With that said the 0.001" diametric press fit is around a 5600lbf press based on some shower math, which should handle ~900ft-lbf of torque before spinning. Not sure if that's a lot or not... But I think for production hubs I'll increase the press fit quite a bit to be safe and actually do some analysis instead of my current winging it method. I also was contemplating drilling and keying the pulley since I did that on my LSA supercharger since spinning that pulley can be an issue, but I'd rather run the Magnuson with the product the way it'd arrive to people so will risk it spinning on the shaft, and if that ever happens I will fix it then.



The hub pressed on great, I used the 20 ton HF press just like I did with the URD and that makes it easy. The hub was pressed flush with the shaft and seemed to contact the bearing inner race which seems correct.



The pulley barely clears the snout which is how the previous pulleys have been. There is plenty of clearance everywhere with both pulleys which is a good sign!



I also replaced the coupler since it was starting to get loud. This is a $10 "OEM" coupler and lasted about 2.5 years. I bought the "upgraded" $20 coupler from ZZP (also where the black coupler came from) so hopefully that one lasts longer.



I also adjusted the bypass valve though it seemed adjusted correctly already.



I lifted the entire blower housing a couple inches to pull the snout, this seemed easier than removing the crossover.



And fully installed! This is with 12x A286 4-40 fasteners. I also replaced the belt with the same Continental 112.4" belt #4081124. The pulley is designed so you can lay the belt onto the pulley THEN slide the pulley on so you don't have to pry the belt over the pulley. We didn't have to do that since the issue is no one makes a smaller belt (within reason) belt, so the 112.4" belts work with the 2.35" pulleys and ideally we'd have a ~0.5" shorter belt with the 2.0" pulley. With that said, we did a test drive and haven't yet (at least obviously) experienced belt slip.

We did a short drive to dinner and the truck is making way more boost! I did a quick full throttle pull and saw 7.7psi over the previous ~4.5psi we were seeing! The truck now appears to have a manifold pressure equivalent to the URD pulley at 2500ft elevation which is insane to me. The URD pulley at sea level I think I'd seen 10psi before, so I think the 2.0 is going to make absolutely insane power at lower elevation!

More testing to come, up here and at low elevation. Need to see if the belt will slip or fall off and how to fix that. Additionally got new Falken Wildpeaks yesterday, got right around 52k miles on them which seems pretty good! Also replaced the PCV while I had the blower off. So new tires, new pulley and hub, new coupler, new PCV.

 

Your truck makes me feel good about mine lasting a really long time, and I'm NA and never tow! Kind of makes me want to put a supercharger on it though... Really cool seeing some custom designed stuff there, I'm assuming you have some sort of engineering background?

 

Yes sir, i specialize in aerospace structures and mechanisms, and maybe in the future supercharger parts

I am excited for next year when the Tundra will probably pass 300k. And if I can do a sub 5 second 0-60, I'd like to think that'll be the end of my pursuit for speed for this truck and I think it'll be reliable at that power. That is the "benefit" of living at higher elevation is big power upgrades really aren't as stressful on the engine (to a point). If I lived at sea level I'd probably leave the supercharger stock to keep everything reliable, up here I can modify it just to match the sea level guys and still be reliable.

 

281,700 mile update. This is mainly to log tuning notes. I installed Prospeed "750cc" injectors (really 715cc) on November 26th. Those details can be found here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-146#post-2993868 Not a fan of the Prospeed injectors.



Prior to the injectors I had really bad knock at ~2500ft elevation (I live at 5500ft). The TRD Green 535cc injectors were 100% maxed out even at higher elevation, and no doubt contributing to the knock at lower elevation which is why I got the 715s. Since the bad knocking, I had had the truck at lower elevation a number of times but just avoided WOT. Two days ago we went down the hill and didn't have a lot of plans so grabbed the laptop to see if I could dial the truck in down there. The knock retard on my first run looked like this:



This was still using the timing map that Viktor had given me (last year?) and was fine before I increased the boost. During this run the max boost I saw was 10.7psia, which means the supercharger itself was making upwards of 12psi and after compensating for the altitude pressure loss was providing 10.7psi beyond what a sea level engine would make. Obviously there is a lot of knock happening at 5200rpm, but otherwise it doesn't look too bad, and was nowhere near as bad as the small injectors. I had already dialed in the large injectors a bit, and was targeting an AFR of 10.5. I then modified the timing base map and high octane map, not drastically but there were a couple areas that could get smoothed out and I dropped the timing 1 or 2 degrees around the 5200rpm range. I also was seeing the AFR fluctuate a bit leaner than I wanted, which is normal, the AFR isn't locked in and is very dynamic, but I wanted 10.5 to be the worst case level of lean at WOT so I richened the truck out a bit more to 10.2. This is the limit of the 715cc injectors, I am at 95% duty cycle but this is only at lower elevation, at home I'm around 80% which is perfect. After those tweaking the data log looked like this:



Much better! I'm not sure what a bad level of knocking is, but -3.0 is nominal operation and anything lower is bad. In my mind these numbers are all relatively low, so the truck is retarding for knock a little but nothing drastic. My next issue was hitting the rev limiter through most gear shifts. I had this issue in my 2-3 shift before and fixed that, but was now happening through most of the other shifts. The truck seems to have the rpms increase so fast it can't anticipate and shift fast enough, so the tuning solution is to decrease the shift rpm so it doesn't hit the limiter. I dropped all shift points at WOT by 5%, and that was perfect and the truck didn't hit the limiter anymore and shifted around 6000rpm!

I did one timed 0-60 run once that was all looking good, and this was the quick data log and dragy run:





The data log was really fast, so not sure how much can be gleaned from it, but the truck seemed very happy with the changes. It also did the fastest 0-60 by far, at 4.58 or 4.37 (depending which number you compare). I only did the one run since I had spent the last hour doing WOT runs and wanted to let it rest, but I am extremely happy with how it's performing. I can now drive down the hill and not worry about knocking and can use all the power on tap safely; I may have lost a little power at higher elevation but I suspect it's minimal since I didn't change the timing by much (and mostly over 5000rpm).

 

284,068 - Was a bit late on this oil change, over 7000 miles on it! New oil and filter.



I pulled the supercharger pulley off for the first time, nearly 5000 miles since installing it! Looks totally fine, quite a bit of oily residue around it but I suspect it's just from the anti seize between the pulley and hub interface getting thrown out. Wiped down everything looks pristine. Little bit of black marking on the front and rear where the belt extremities contact.










Also checked the catch can for perhaps the first time ever? I feel like I opened it once before though... Maybe a 1/2" of essentially muddy water and nothing else. I'll take that as a good thing, and the can is just getting condensation from the winter and there's nothing else to pick up.

 

Wish I had a fat ass garage.

 

Shop is getting some fat upgrades this year! Last week it just got insulation, and next up will be a 40ft radiant tube heater. I'd also like to epoxy the floors in the spring, and will be putting plywood walls up to the first cross beam. Over the weekend I had some friends come over to wrench on their truck and help move everything after the insulation, and the new layout is absolutely awesome! Had five vehicles in here with room to work and room for more! Super excited with how it's turning out after not doing anything in December. If you're ever in southern Utah come swing by

 

That is awesome!

 

I want a similar shop, just nowhere near that big, awesome!

 

So like this?
Amazing how much this guy packs into a tiny room. Not sure how he keeps it so clean and swarf-free..
https://youtu.be/In6VqiHL7rM

 

That's cool but I'm thinking between that & yours. A 2 bay barn would be perfect so I have the height to have a lift.

 

Mines 40ft wide and 60ft deep for reference.

 

That is a dream garage/workshop right there. I’m in design phase of adding a 27’x30’ garage.

 

Shopped houses for 1.5yrs until we found one we liked, and having a shop was a must have.

Most things can be added after the fact like wiring and air, etc. But some things I suggest thinking about if you haven't:

-A drain in the floor so you can wash the floor, or vehicles, etc. in the shop.

-Water line/drain for a sink

-If you plan to run a gas heater, run the gas line.

Since my place came with the building, adding a floor drain is essentially impossible. And adding water and gas will require exiting the ground outside the shop and then jogging in. If I was designing a shop I'd add those features from the start. Also have thick enough concrete to add a lift (usually 4" or more).

 

I'm at 193k mi and I'm going to do exactly this.

 

289,525 update. Oil and filter change, blow out the air filter, and empty the catch can which had like 1/2" of mostly water and a little gas (looked like coffee with same consistency).

After my annual trip to KOH in which I absolutely overload the Tundra with the cab over AND the can am, I was seriously thinking about a diesel. But that thought died down until recently when I got my buggy running and took it for a trip, and now I'm pretty certain a diesel will happen in the near future. The Tundras gas mileage is so horrible, I literally go through a tank as fast as my diesel friends even notice their fuel needle has moved. I'll keep the Tundra, I don't think it's worth much and still a lot of fun around town and doing chores, but it'd be nice to have the camper and the buggy or both of those and the can am; just have options for larger trailers and not constantly be overloading the truck when I'm barely hauling anything. In the past two weeks I've taken the buggy out twice and the can am out twice, with each trip being usually two whole tanks of gas just to drive an hour away. Course I could drive slower, but I value my time more than the cost of doing the speed limit. We'll see (could always turn the tundra into a prerunner then too...). Otherwise the truck still runs and drives like a champ, probably hit 300k this year!