@TundraTex 2016 CrewMax Audio Build

Excellent! Way to plant the mod bug early! Gotta train em' up right!

Glad to hear the information was useful.

 

Followed for my own endeavor. I suck at all things electrical.

 

I've been called blind many times, but I didn't see the ESP under seat storage?? Works looks great tho

 

Sadly I don't have a better picture. I was focused on the sub when I took the picture. You can just see one hinge of the ESP lid in the lower right corner of the pic.

 

Ohhhh I see it, I was confused with the amps.. I thought it was the rear but it was the front seats... yes I seen ESP when I realized it was the rear then.. it looks pretty awesome dude.. ???? Would there be enough room back there for a 10 inch Sub???

 

There is room, but it would require a different, larger enclosure design. Mine is designed so the face of the Sub has about an inch of clearance from the plane of the back passenger seat angle. The seat cover actually has a bit of an opening in the back, so the enclosure could be contoured to fit in the gap and give more volume for a 10". That becomes a geometry problem more complex than what I wanted to deal with when I built my simple enclosure.

I may add that problem to my ever-growing list of mod design ideas to work on after FRACv2 is up and running smoothly.

 

I'm sure the one yu have sounds awesome.. I'm just checking in case I have this done and wanted to know from someone who actually did it. Thanx brother.. appreciated for sure

 

Hey @TundraTex. I am sorry to necro this thread yet again, but will the speaker pin outs (TO the speakers) on the connectors under the seat that you documented be the same for a 2010 JBL/Navi?

 

From the wiring diagrams, and other forums, it looks like this is the mapping (same connectors at least):

2016 J144 -> 2010 K16
2016 J145 -> 2010 K17

But 2010 the pin outs indeed are different:

Connector C (K17)
pin 1 VIOLET front left -
pin 2 PINK front left +
pin 3 BLUE front right -
pin 9 LIGHT GREEN front right +

Connector B (K16)
Pins 3,4,9,10
Pin 3 YELLOW rear left +
Pin 9 BLACK rear left -
Pin 10 RED rear right +
Pin 4 WHITE rear right -

From other forums accounts this is correct for 2010 in implementation. I hope this helps some people and I will be following this for my install next weekend.

 

@TundraTex - Awesome post. It helped me so much with my install. I just did a similar upgrade to my 2017 Crewmax (10” sub, sealed box) and I am finding that there is a huge bass dead spot right where I sit! When I lean forward it sounds great...sitting in the back seat, it sounds great, but muddled almost non-existent bass where I sit. I’m stumped. Do you feel like the bass is consistent throughout your cab?

 

I don't have that issue. One thing you can try is to change your HU fade and balance settings and see if the dead spot moves. Then you could "rebalance" with your amp channel gains. Dead spots can come from interior structure as well as sound power cancellation from fwd/aft/left/right settings.

 

Not sure which wires you’re talking about. Which picture are you referring to. The only thin wires I think you might referring to are those in the adapter pigtails that were shown in one picture before they were connected (3rd picture in post 13?). Everything in the two adapter pigtails was connected as described in post 29.

 

Sorry. I guess I don't understand what your trying to ask. And I'm not sure what is being shown in your pictures.

 

@TundraTex , thanks for your reply. I took my truck in to some professionals in town, and they agreed that something didn’t sound right with my system. I am trying to sort through what you did with the harnesses you bought, but is your sub tapped off the front or rear speaker inputs? I bought a harness online that splits off the head unit from the rear speaker wires, and I’m wondering if this is why my sub sounds “off” considering the bass signal to the rear doors might not span the full spectrum.

 

The LCQ1 splits the Sub channel frequencies out of the full spectrum input.

 

I just got a 2016 DC SR5 TRD and I'm going to follow TundraTex's install. There was some discussion earlier about audio signal flow so I decided to draw out the flow based on TundraTex's J144\J145 pin out using the LCQ-1 Control. I have no idea why Toyota designed their audio system this way, there must be some reason for the madness.

 

sub

 

TundraTex, first I would like to say thank you so much for sharing with us . I would like to ask after removing the factory amp and done with all the setup . Does the audio control on your steering wheel still work ? I saw a post where if we have Jbl system and removing the factory amp we'll lose the steering audio control .

 

I have a non-JBL system and the Steering well controls still function.

 

thank you for the reply

 

This build looks great @TundraTex !! I know you said yours is a Non-JBL system, do you know if anyone had done an upgrade to a JBL equipped truck? I just ordered a 2018 Platinum with the JBL system but I am an audio junkie!! I'm going to want more!!!

 

I looked into the JBL wiring a while back when someone was asking some similar questions. The JBL HU puts out a composite full spectrum audio signal and the JBL amp splits it out into the 5 channels with the appropriate crossover. The HU also communicates with the Amp for control of balance, fading, volume, etc.

What this means, is that it's an all or nothing deal with the HU and the Amp. You either have to replace both or keep both. And if you replace them, you need to add some additional audio wiring even if you intend to reuse the OEM harnesses.

If it were me, I would attack it in two steps. First, change out all the speakers. That alone may provide you with the improvements you're looking for. The next step would be to keep the OEM HU/AMP and intercept the speaker wiring at the JBL Amp output connector, add an audio DSP and new amp after the JBL amp, and run everything to the new speakers.

It would be a little work, but you keep OEM functionality and get good sound improvement.

For the true audiophiles, that might not be enough. Their approach would be to either replace everything or stuff a live band in the bed and roll down the rear window for volume control!

Looking forward to seeing what you decide.

 

Thanks for the info on the wiring @TundraTex, that will save me a lot of R&D. My truck gets here in about a week so stay tuned.

 

No problem finding that nipple, but how in the world did you get two hands in there to cut the tip off?

 

Haha. It helps to have a step stool beside the truck. Still tricky, but it gives you more reach.

 

Nice

 

Dammit Lou, you're getting to be a pain in my wallet,,,,LOL. Nice work, of course.

 

You're welcome! You can't take it with you, so might as well share some love with the Tundra!

 

This is a very informative post. I am trying to decide what amp to get. I want to keep the factory wiring. I have come to the conclusion that I can do it 2 ways. #1 buy an amp and wire harness from ********* or buy an amp & LOC from another vendor along with the harnesses from the website listed in this post. Is this true or is there an amp that has non-RCA inputs?

 

There are plenty of automotive Audio amps that I'm aware of that utilize RCA connections for the audio channels.