2005 Double Cab 4x4 Daily Driver (warning: pic heavy, little OT)

Congrats on the new addition and some solid upgrades. Truck is looking good.

 

Thanks! It's exponentially more work than one kid, which I didn't anticipate. But thankfully my wife did and she's doing an amazing job raising us (myself included).

 

Recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, belt tensioners, idler puller, fan clutch, radiator, hoses and thermostat. Good for another 100k miles!

 

Also replaced both axles with OEM remans.

 

Still healthy as ever

https://youtube.com/shorts/g-P8aKufMZw?feature=share

 

I also recently finished installing speakers in the front and rear doors. I have the base audio system with no amp. It sounded pretty darn good after I upgraded the HU and added a JL Stealthbox, but recently blew one or two of the door speakers. With the help of @shifty` (thank you!!), I decided on JBL Club series. Well worth the money. These sound great!

For the rear doors, I installed:

JBL Club 622 (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CL622/JBL-Club-622.html)
Metra 72-8104 wiring adapters (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120728104/Metra-72-8104-Speaker-Wiring-Harnesses.html)
Scosche SAT6 brackets (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SAT6/Scosche-SAT6-Speaker-Mounting-Brackets.html)
I sealed the back of the brackets with butyl tape (

$24 Second Skin Butyl Sealant Tape – Butyl Rubber Sealant, Multi-Purpose Butyl Rope, and Putty Tape for Automotive (Car, RV, Marine) – 1/4” x 1/2" x 20’ – Made in The USA

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0155KELRW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1)
I foamed the back of the speakers (

$13 Yotache Foam Tape 3 Strips 1/4" Wide X 1/4" Thick, Weather Stripping for Doors and Window High Density Foam Seal Tape Sliding Door Weather Strip, Total 30 Feet Long (3 X 10 Ft Each)

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08L7YB7QT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1)
Noico 80 mil sound deadener (

$166 Noico 80 mil (2 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK?ie=UTF8)



For the front doors:

JBL Club 602C (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CL602C/JBL-Club-602C.html)
Metra 82-8153 brackets for the woofers (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120828153/Metra-82-8153-Speaker-Mounting-Brackets.html)
Tweeters on stock mounts
Same butyl rope, foam, and deadener as above
For the crossovers, I stuck them on with butyl then screwed them down.

No rattles at all, sounds fantastic!

 

Frustratingly, I opted not to replace my front diff oil seals while replacing CV axles recently and subsequently developed both a passenger side leak and the driver's side needed bearing vibes. Even more frustratingly, one of the OEM remaned inner boots spit a little grease and revealed a tiny compromise in the boot where the ribs were touching (in less than 1000 miles)!

So I bought Porsche 930 inner boots and clamps from Kartek, a bushing sleeve to replace the drivers side needle bearing from ECGS, and a couple OEM oil seals. I also hit up @FrenchToasty who kindly sent his tool kit. Now that it's done, I wish I'd done this earlier. The CVs are so much better now!

A few pics of the front diff seals and bearing replacement:



Driver's side old seal and needle bearing:



Unlike others I've seen, all my needles were still accounted for in the race:



Stuff a rag or bag into the diff housing so you don't lose the tool into the housing:



ECGS clamshell bushing sleeve tapped in easily with @FrenchToasty tool:

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-1...amshell-bushingeliminates-needle-bearing.html



New OEM seal gently tapped in with he PVC:



Looking at the needle bearing, I could see where the axle was actually making contact with the race in between the needles. I suppose the needles had worn down significantly after 210k miles:



Old passenger side seal. Should have replaced it in the first place:



Bearing on the passenger side is pretty bomber:



New OEM seal for the passenger side:



Overall, this is an easy job. I found this video among others to be helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pp-5wcnpLJE&list=LL&index=3

 

Rebooting CV joints is also a much easier job than I'd always thought it was. In hindsight, I should've rebooted the original axles and skipped buying the remanned axles altogether. Hindsight is 20/20 I guess.

Parts used:
2 x EMPI "Bates-style" Porsche 930 inner CV boots from Kartek: https://www.kartek.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=KT&Product_Code=MRB-869306

2 x Norma 900-110mm narrow hose/boot clamp with rolled edges, also from Kartek: https://www.kartek.com/parts/norma-...t-axle-boot-or-hose-clamps-9mm-2364-wide.html

4 x 1"-2" hose clamps

Valvoline Synthetic grease with moly

I found this video to be helpful, along with some others I'd watched before I started: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQJSquWYDLQ&list=LL&index=2&t=525s

Basic order of operations to reboot:

1. cut the inner boots off
2. wipe out enough grease to see the lock ring holding the inner CV joint to the axle
3. remove the axle
4. put the new 930 boot on the axle
5. insert the axle back into the CV
6. pack the CV with grease
7. pull the new 930 inner boot down over the flange and tighten the clamp
8. clamp the axle side with a smaller hose clamp
9. remove the inside clamp on the outer CV boot
10. extend the boot so the ribs no longer touch when flexed
11. tighten with a new small hose clamp
12. debated alternating sides on the worm drive but ultimately lined them up bc that's how the OEM was - so far no vibes

Pics, because that's what this thread is mostly about:

Toyota inner boot on the truck after a month :/


Stock inner boot on truck


Toyota outer boot on the truck before adjusting


OEM axle after removal (1 month old)


OEM axle after bellows fixed


OEM inner boot cut off and grease scooped out to expose lock ring


Rebooting and packing with grease


new 930 boot installed before stretching the outer boot


Rebooted the inner joint with the 930 boot plus extended and reclamped the inside of the OEM outer boot.


OEM inner boot vs 930 inner boot


beautiful. Ready to reinstall


The 930 boot looks so good under the truck. No bellows making contact


outer bellows after adjustment

 

Be on the lookout for leaks here. Had to do mine twice

 

Been 200 miles, so far so good :fingers crossed:

 

Awesome journey you're taking us on!
Are the seals the same for both sides? I see them both in your pic but only the p/n 90311-47013.
Did you get them from ECGS?
Thanks!

 

They are not the same part number. The number you see on the post is the passenger side, which I procured at the local dealer. The drivers side seal came from ECGS when I ordered the sleeve bushing. I don’t have that p/n handy, but it’s easily found on other similar posts. If you can’t find it PM me and I’ll help you out a bit later - I just don’t have time to search at the moment. Anyway, if you’re planning to do tackle this - do it! It makes a big difference in reliability of the CVs, and drivability with the bearing replacement. And it’s really not difficult.

 

Thanks for the reply.
I plan on replacing my boots. Getting a little cracked where they clamp but haven't torn yet. I'm keeping my original axles because they only have 77K miles.
So you didn't replace the outer boots?

 

The outer boots tend to fair a lot better than the inners. And mine are brand new OEM boots on the axles I installed a month ago…

 

I forgot that you just put on OEM remans. Brain fart.
That inner OEM boot looks terrible.

Their instructions for the EMPI boot states that you are supposed to use a part of the old boot. It doesn't look like you had to. Did it just clamp on the CV joint?

 

Yeah, there are some axles that have the tri-lobe design. I believe they are found on 4runners and Tacomas, maybe some earlier Tundras. The tri-lobed design requires the old boot to be trimmed to be used on the flange. In my case, the original OEM CVs, the interim car quest CVs, and the new OEM remanned CVs had a round flange and didn't need the old boot to be used. The 930 boot clamps directly to the flange.

Here's the lobed design from a Taco (actually this one looks like its quad-lobed or square). But you can see how the old inner boot would need to be used to adapt the round kartek 930 boots:



Old lobed boot inside the round 930 boot:



And here's how mine looked (round):

 

Perfect!
Mine is a 2006 DC so they should be like yours.
Thanks again for the great info.

 

My pleasure man, no problem. Good luck. P.m. me if you have any more Qs if I can help!

 

Sorry if this question seems obvious, but did you need to change your airbag when you upgraded to the steering wheel with controls? Or are you still running the original airbag and clockspring that your truck came with? Great information about the controls upgrade. I'm really hoping to be able to follow suit with my 2001 AC.

 

I did not change the clock spring, but I did replace the airbag. It isn't necessary to change the airbag itself, but the airbag cover needs to be changed to accommodate the switches. Because the cover is riveted in place, I opted to replace the cover and airbag together. To do this on a 2001, I'd probably look for a complete wheel with airbag and switches and clockspring from another vehicle to swap into yours. Unfortunately I don't know any specifics about he earlier Tundras, so I'm not sure what to recommend. Going to be great upgrade, though - good luck!

 

We've been mostly out of town in Maine for the summer. My wife and kids have taken the whole summer off and I've been commuting every other week for work. Haven't done much to the truck lately.

But it was oil change time while I was home, and it's been REALLY hot and humid down here in SWFL, so I wanted to get to done as quickly as possible. Figured it was a good excuse to get a Fumoto valve. Nice piece of kit, definitely recommend! I got the shortest one to maximize ground clearance. Slightly lower than the stock plug, but doesn't come anywhere close to hanging below the crossmember. Might remove it if/when I get back out West and do some real wheeling.

$34 Fumoto F-133: STANDARD VALVE WITH 12MM-1.25 THREADS WITH LEVER CLIP Gold

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085RBL4KW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

This build thread is great! Just picked up my 06 double cab. it has around 182k miles and is in solid condition with plenty of maintenance records. needs timing belt job done... currently looking for quotes around southern california. needs new door speakers... it has the stock JBL head unit and speakers... i'm thinking i just replace the speakers myself and eventually replace the head unit with something more... modern. also just ordered the westin bed mat that you have on your truck since it seems to be a perfect fit.

i'll be following this thread and also starting my own to help me document everything i do to it.

 

Thanks man, welcome to the DC life!

 

@912 You tired of this truck yet? Let me know when you are!

 

Picture time! Updated a few small things recently, now that my family is back in FL full time with me.

First up, I sold my full-size projector retrofits and got some

$146 Nilight Headlight Assembly for 2005 2006 Toyota Tundra 4 Door Double Crew Cab 2005 2006 2007 Sequoia Pickup Replacement Black Housing Amber Reflector Driver and Passenger Side, 2 Years Warranty

Nilight smoked housings and corners. I added the CO Light LED mini projectors and love the setup. The light output isn't anywhere near the full-size retrofits with 55W HIDs, but its way better than traditional halogen. Plus I like the look a lot more. Not to mention, my Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro fog lights do most of the lighting anyway.



I also took off my fender flares (smaller than OEM and unique to the XSP package) and am having them resprayed and cleared. The clear coat started to bubble and peel in a few spots.




Lastly, I decided to put my Weathertech window visors back in and added an

$70 Auto Ventshade [AVS] Bugflector II / Hood Shield | High Profile | Smoke, 1 pc | 25429 | Fits 2000 - 2006 Toyota Tundra (Behind Grille), 2001 - 2004 Sequoia (Behind Grille)

AVS Buglector II up front. I actually really like the look! Install was simple and its a nice fit.

 

Where the flares make contact with the body, there is definitely a noticeable mark. No rust or bare metal, but you can see the line. Perhaps a pro could buff it out, but it’s there. Just a warning to anyone wanting to deflare.

Yesterday I had the opportunity to take the kids to the diy brushless car wash on a gorgeous day and spent 20 minutes spraying the old girl. Not too shabby for 18 years and 4 months old with 220k miles!

 

@912 Love this build thread! You’re my truck role model since I’ve got dang near the exact same truck except 2004 (missed out on the vvti). I’ve got two questions for you:

1) Are you still on the 8/6 setting with the 6112s and have the icon AAL in the back with the 5160s? And did you leave the overload spring if so?

2) You said you used 2x of the 1’x5’ 3M rolls to wrap the back bumper. Was there a seam somewhere? Why did you use two?

 

Awesome to see a fellow Arizonite on here. Your build looks great so far! I’m jealous of the camper shell you posted. They seem to be difficult to find out here

 

Thanks man! Yes, same suspension set up and settings. And yes, overload spring is still in the pack. As far as the vinyl, I used one roll for the rear bumper and one for the front and mirrors I think. I didn’t originally think there a was a seam but looking back at the pics there is a seam by the license plate. I’ll add some pics of the rear bumper with the roll loosely positioned with magnets to get an idea of size.