How to install Adjustable UCA - 25490 (Help!!)

Update: I have a complete write up below how I did this surgery. Read on.....


I need help / write up, any info how to install the SPC Adjustable UC - 25490...2nd generation / 2008.

Am on a 6 inch Rough County lift, and of course showing the ghastly \ / in front wheel - camber.

I plan to do the surgery in my garage with house tools this weekend.

Anyone with experience?

How long should it take me?

Where to focus the most difficult in this surgery?

Am mechanically inclined.

Help a ToyUndra out.

 

https://youtu.be/j1yQyHzOtTc

 

Hope it help

 

Thanks.....Happen to see that vid after posting thread.

Was there any area that require attention, most difficult etc?

I figure the video may have missed a few details ....

 

Pulling the OE uca bolt can be a pita. You may need to cut it to get it out. Otherwise it's pretty a straightforward install

 

Did you had to remove the battery or washer fluid jug?

And which side was more difficult?

 

I installed UCAs on my Tacoma...not yet on my Tundra. You may need to remove the battery...unlikely the washer res.

 

It's a straight forward install. No need to remove the battery or washer fluid reservoir. I just unscrewed a wire loom mount that was kind of in the way on the drivers side. You'll know the one when the UCA bolt contacts it when removing it. The UCA bolt takes a little finesse sometimes. Other than that it's pretty simple. I've done it several times without issue.

 

I just put the spc's on mine a few weeks ago. It's pretty easy. Breaking the nut on the through bolt loose may take some penetrating oil and definitely a strong arm and a long breaker bar. It's torqued tight! No need to cut it unless you can't get it loose. No need to pull the battery, just disconnect it and the clamp below it on the positive cable so you can move it a little to slide the bolt out. You may also need to move the metal brake lines on the frame a little. One small bolt. Passenger side is easier. All you have to do is pop open two plastic clamps holding a couple hoses to the inner fender. Not sure about the caster settings you'll need with the 6" lift. Mine is only 2.5" so neutral was good for mine.

 

Time frame...... how long did it take you to complete the surgery?

One shop want to charge $500 just for the install.

All your comments are greatly appreciated and have read the responses over and over as I prepare......

 

It took me a total of about five hours from start to finish in my driveway. That included dragging out My floor jack, stands and tools. Had to put tools away and stop several times due to off and on rain. Actual time per uca once the truck was on stands was about twenty minutes. Be safe and get the battery cable and hoses detached from the inner fenders before jacking it up and taking the wheels off! I had a local shop, RSG quote me $300 without the alignment. I won that from them at toytecs grand opening! Got another quote for $225. But doing it myself didn't cost me anything! I'd say if the shop that said $500 is including multiple alignments that it is a decent deal. No alignments not so good.

 

At Joeshaker,

That give me a big picture how to manage this project.
Nuff big ups to you and all responses
Surgery starts Saturday

 

You can call spc, tell them what lift you have. Maybe they can help you get the caster adjustment plates in the right position or close. I used a level to get the wheels close to plum for the camber. The truck drove pretty good before the alignment! I hope you have some monster jack stands for the height of your truck.

 

I have two-6tons jack stands that I plan to use. Only one small prob is I may have placement only for the jack due to the cross-member being cut, and not enough space left to slide in the jack stands. Figuring this out.

I have a few levelers I can use to get the camber close. I do plan to take it back to the shop after I complete the surgery.

SPC tech was a weeeee-bit off kinder when I called today...."every dog has its day" ......i suppose.

I realized that the UCA nut and bolt takes a 24mm socket.....hhhhmmmm thought it was a 21mm.

Liquid wrench applied and will hit it again tomorrow.

I did a write up on changing th valve cover gaskets, hope to do the same here.

Want to cruise up and lend a hand? Hahahah. jk. Hope surgery last about 3 hours or less

Did you complete a write up?

 

Not really but I did start a thread just like yours beforehand. I like to put the jack stands under the frame rails, pits the load out for better stability. Leave the jack under the cross member and use another to support the LCA, coilover, spindle and brakes. Use a bungy or a tie down strap to keep the cv's, brake and abs lines from getting overextended. @LOTSOFTOYS may be able to advise you on the caster adjustment plates. Hit him up on the ask the Toyota mechanic thread.

 

So here's the update.

Did the driver side only due to poor light. I watched all the YouTube vids twice, read over all the input on this thread and LETS DO SOME SURGERY!!!!! Am ready!!!!

DRIVER SIDE WRITE UP

Jacked up from driver side what's left of my crossmember - scary as jack slid a few times.

Sprayed UCA bolts and nuts with liquid wrench - last night and again before surgery.

Placed 6 ton jack under frame by side mirror
Placed a 2 ton jack under the LCA. Perfectly the wheel was less than two inches off ground

Removed driverside wheel

Marked the UCA position with white chalk so that the 25490 will sit in the same angle

Removed 10mm bolt from UCA holding speed sensor

Used bungie to anchor upright arm from dropping

Remove knuckle castle nut from UCA connected to the hub upright.

Removed rubber skirt flaps to better access UCA bolt and nut

Purchased 22mm wrench - had to run to store twice-----hggrrrrr

Used hallow bar as extender on 22mm wrench for better torque. A bit of muscle and nut came loose

Slid UCA bolt as much as possible from wheelwell, then from hood end, sleeping d bolt around electrical coming off fuse box

BAM!!!!!!!! Out she came,,,,, nothing else was disconnected or removed

Once the wheel was removed, took about 15 minutes to totally remove the UCA bolt and without help

Prepped the 25490 and reverse the procedure. Install complete to include replace wheel took about another 15 minutes

The hardest part was repositioning the jack under the crossmember to raise truck to remove jackstands.

The 25490 sliding adjuster nut requires a 32mm socket

Out of 10, with 10 being the worse, this side was a 4.

Will finish write up for passenger side tomorrow!!!

 

Nice write up and good job Les! I forgot to mention that if you pop the plastic anchors out on the rubber flaps you can get the through bolt in out without climbing under the hood. Do you have an 1 1/4 socket to torque the big nut on the top? That sliding ball joint setup seems like it could slip if you wheel hard with big tires. You want to make sure they stay torqued. 150 lb ft isn't it?

 

Thank you JoeS!!!!

I did torque it at 150. I still show positive camber by looking onto wheel. I figured, after I complete the left side Saturday, I would go back, loosen the slider nut, (try) push wheel in, then tighten. Can I do that?
The UCA slider nut is all the way out to the edge where the "SPC" is scribed on the UCA

 

Yeah, you'll want to get the camber close. Drive it just enough to get the suspension to settle. It doesn't take much when all you've done is the ucas. Find a piece of wood or something that's straight the right length to span the outside of the wheel and put a level on it and get it as close to plum as you can. You'll have to take the weight off the tire to adjust it. Then take it to the alignment shop, pat yourself on the back for doing it yourself and spend the money you saved on your next mod.

 

I do appreciate you taking the time out!!!!!

Yup, other mods on the horizon that carries sound: exhaust or stereo.......hhhhhhmmmmm

Well let's see how the passenger side behaves on Saturday . Write up forthcoming

 

LEFT SIDE:

Same as above but even easier.

Inside engine, loosen clip that secures the coolant line. You can't miss it once you start removing the UCA bolt.

Out of 10 (again), this is a 3

Next is realignment - Sorry JoeS, everything is off,but that's kewl. The shop am taking to does alignment on lifted truck.
****i would not dare describe how the alignment looks as the wheel are in a weird position

Question: I torques the UCA bolt and nut to 150, yet, before connecting the UCA to the upright arm, the UCA didn't seems lock where it pivots on the bushings. Is this normal?

 

Found the answer on instructions

".......SpecRide bushings pivot freely and can be ......."

Realignment next week

 

Yeah, with your big lift it's no surprise that the pre alignment isn't easy like mine was. Where's the pics?

 

Just remembered that I took these. Should have shared before you were done....

 

JOE? Why should I waste a pic with greesy fingers, when I know you had them saved on your phone??? HEHEHEHhahahahah

Folks, these pics by JoeS spells volume

PIC 1 is the

$750 SPC 25490 SPC Specialty Products Toyota Tundra Adjustable Upper Control Arms (PR) - 25490

SPC 25490 in position
PIC 2 is the Coolant hose on Passenger side. Loosen clip, move hose to the side, and that's all you need to pull out the UCA bolt
PIC 3 is ***disclaimer*** Joe just have too much darn time on his hands playing in the rain on the day when he also had same surgery
PIC 4 is the electrical harness on the driver side. I force shifted mine to get the bolt to slide by.

Joe: your truck under all that "tins" need a wash!! HAhahaahah

Is this thread still hijacked with your pics??

 

Ha, I had clean hands after each rain delay. It took an hour before I jacked up the truck. Five minutes under the hood, then wait. Got it in the air and wheels off and more rain. Go ahead and put my pics in the write up.

 

I didn't used any gloves, and from start to finish, my hands were black from the grease. Images below shows how the 25490 looks

 

This thread is GREAT! They will help as I'm installing my SPC UCAs tomorrow morning. Thanks for the tips and pics!