General Supercharger Thread.

Not Toyota but close enough, I ordered it.

$7 91 Octane or Higher Gas Gasoline Fuel Tank Printed Warning Label Sticker Decal (2)

https://www.amazon.com/Octane-Gasol...ba8-4e9f-b200-0accc1360601&pd_rd_i=B07YP11BV2

 

Not sure what happened. Truck ran fine this morning to the meet. Then going to get lunch trailer brake error came on, check engine light is on, fuel pressure is at like 15! I just had it started and was adjusting the AEM FPR, but the pressure didn't seem to change on the gauge. Oh and for some reason yesterday my MPVI2+ stopped being able to connect to.bluetooth. on a break now, but have a super cheap odbii connector I'll try next.to see.l what it can read.

 

That sucks, my MPVI2+ stopped communicating with my preferred laptop until I updated the year+ old firmware on another laptop (love having numerous machines) Hopefully it is an easy fix.

 

Gotta be something with the fuel pump, guessing

 

15psi when the engine is idling? Something must have come loose, if you don't see any leaks it's probably a connection in the tank.

 

What I'm thinking too...damn dropping the tank sucks, especially cause I just filled it up!!! Stupid 38 gallon tank

 

Fuck with the FPR. The aeromotive FPR on my buggy did something similar. I had it set and then when it actually drove it seemed to settle in and the FPR almost jammed up, I had to open the pressure back up and then it came back to normal. Almost like a seal in there expanded and decreased the pressure.

 

When you say open the pressure back up, you mean removing the vacuum line? I ran back through the instructions, taking the vacuum hose off and adjusted the top screw, but the pressure didn't seem to change at all.

While looking things over I did notice that the fuse in the ignition port was lose. And the errors on the dash were VERY similar to when I was originally doing the wiring in that area. It may have wiggled while driving and caused a chain of events, idk I hope. Maybe that put me into limp mode. Also the nut on the top of the positive battery cable wasn't fully tightened. I've cleared the temp codes with ODB Fusion. But the permanent lean codes were still there. The dash errors for trailer brake and whatnot went away, positive that was related to the IGN lose fuse. Disconnected battery for a while and recheck in a bit

 

Yea I meant the adjustment top screw. If that doesn't change your pressure then it would seem like it'd have to be a fuel pump issue, but I'm not familiar with the AEM FPR.

 

Hmm...how long do I need to leave the battery unplugged to clear the ECU? I left both cables off about 15 minutes, still there. Then left just negative off for about 15 minutes, still there. Then messed with my Autel MaxiDAS, but it only supports vehicles up to 2015. It was able to read and clear one code related to anti lock brakes, but didn't see the lean codes. Odb Fusion still has two permanent lean codes. The truck hesitates to crank at first, takes 2-3 seconds I assume to prime the fuel line. Then seems to idle and rev as normal, but the fuel pressure gauge still only reading 15 or less. Linked a vid to it. You can see the dial move barely when I slow rev to 3k rpm

https://youtu.be/CjF7CGjwdJA

 

Oh it is an aeromotive FPR! And you screwed the top screw in and out? Can you make it have less fuel pressure so you know it's actually doing something or that the gauge actually works?

 

I took the screw all the way out beforehand and tapped the fpr with a mallet. I'm also leaning towards the gauge not working but want to really double check everything before I go on another drive, and would really like for the permanent lean codes to go away first. But I crawled under the truck with flashlight and camera, all external connections to gas tank seem to be fine.

 

The lean codes are a direct effect of low pressure, replacement gauges can be found at local autoparts stores if you want to rule it out.

 

Did you put the screw all the way in?

 

Not all the way in, no, like 75% probably. I'll do that next.

I got the M3 battery on the charger since it was dead early. It's a nice day, so guess I'll take it for a spin to the store

 

I hope that's not what she said!

 

Fairly sure it is 15mins.

 

Sorry, hope it's easily resolved.

The joy of modding!

 

I hope it's resolved quickly too! HAS to be the FPR...

I just order led my glowshift cradle and PSB-1 gauge!

 

O'Reillys didn't have any. And the one I got from AutoZone was $46. Didn't notice till I got home it only reads to 15 psi lol.

 

I took out the current gauge and reinstalled it. Screwed the fpr down all the way so it's flush with the nut. Probably go on a test drive for a few miles and see if that resets any lean code

 

Those aren't clearable. I'll bet that once you get the fuel pressure sorted out and a few run cycles on it, they will go away. That's what happened with a "permanent" faulty sensor code I had yesterday. After correcting the sensor issue it went away, I never at any time disconnected the battery.

 

If you have a clamp on amp probe you could make sure the pump is drawing proper amps just to verify the pump itself is running. Not sure where the best place to get the clamp around a wire would be.

 

Went for a drive but all the codes came back. Truck seems to hesitate off the line at 1k rpm, but then seems to kick in and go

 

I'll call ProSpeed tomorrow and see what they say about the FPR

And of course the fuel injection pressure tester I bought came with the female adapter, and I need the male end

 

Reading up, I don't think the pump is priming at all when the the truck is in the On position, when it should at least be building up pressure at this point. Also causing the longer cranks to start.

Ordered new gauge from Amazon. Should be here tomorrow

$51 Aeromotive 15633 Fuel Pressure Gauge - 0 to 100 psi

Aeromotive 15633 Fuel Pressure Gauge - 0 to 100 psi

 

No worries, The fuel pump does not prime in the ON position on the tundras. It only runs when it is actually engaging the starter and after it has started.

 

I went with SCOL, so far so good. Mine started making noise at 7k miles.

 

Fingers crossed its a bad FPR. These two reviews kinda sounds like whats going on with me