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RCI Skid Plate Package with Cat Guard Install Best Practices

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by GratefulDean, Jan 16, 2023.

  1. Jan 16, 2023 at 10:03 AM
    #1
    GratefulDean

    GratefulDean [OP] Swagless

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    Dean
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    Bed Rack, Decked System, Softopper
    After seeing several catalytic converter thefts in my neighborhood and on this site, and having my previous truck stolen, I ran the numbers and felt that $800-$1000 for a full RCI Skid Package with the cat guards was a no brainer. I was also fortunate that they were running a sale that had the cat covers free with the package purchase. But I would have pulled the trigger regardless. I ordered before Xmas in the hopes I could get it installed before I left for a 2 week holiday but it didn't quite work out.

    I tried to purchase an RCI bed rack back when I first got the truck but we couldn’t get it to fit over my soft top. The folks at RCI went out of their way to accommodate me. I drove up and worked with them to see what we could do to make it work. But, it was a little too low and narrow, which was unfortunate, other than the extruded products I’ve seen their rack is the best looking. And they have mounts to hang bikes from the sides! I ended up getting one from Datin, which is nice but the powder coat seems a little lighter than what was on the RCI bed rack. RCI was absolutely fantastic to deal with on that so they have earned my business. I will eventually get their rock sliders.

    I don’t have any experience with skid plates but this one seems pretty bomber. Powder coat is solid and the steel is heavy duty. Fit and finish is in line with what I’ve seen from them on their racks.

    The install was a little frustrating, which these sorts of things usually are. The directions were pretty good, better than most with lots of pictures but there are some best practices that I will try to elucidate below to help the next person keep from using language unbecoming a gentleman or lady.


    Tools:

    1. I used a 9/16 ratcheting box wrench for the transmission plate. This is absolutely key, I am not sure how those can get tightened in situ with anything else.

    2. For the engine skid I used a 13mm deep socket with an extension.

    3. I believe I used a 12mm socket to remove the OEM skid. Which, I might add, was made out of tinfoil.

    4. I used a furniture dolly to roll the trans skid into place . Then as I slid the trans skid between the engine skid and cross member I put something (a Milwaukee cordless light) on top of the dolly to raise the skid in place (see pic). I rolled this front and back, raising and lowering the skid so I could work.

    5. Duct tape, I got this from someone on here. I used this to hold the carriage bolts in place as I worked to get the washers and nuts on.


    Hardware Issues:

    1. The hardware on the trans skid was a little wonky, maybe. It wasn’t missing anything but it said it came with nylon lock nuts. It did not. They may have been with the engine skid so this is probably not an issue.

    2. The washers for the recessed engine skid are too small for the holes in the skid. I had to add larger washers on top of those supplied. This is an issue.

    3. The ⅜” retainer washers for the back the engine skid were too large for the carriage bolts. The bolts wouldn’t stay in place. I hammered them a little to flatten them, that helped, but ultimately I used the duct tape, and harsh language.

    4. Flash light. Not a head lamp, you will need to slide it up to be able to see in some tight places. But a headlamp in general may not be a bad thing.

    5. There is an Engine/Transmision Retrofit Mounting plate include with the cat guards. I have no idea what this is for and the directions don’t clarify. I hope they do in a future version of the instructions. I didn’t install it and I don’t think I needed to.


    General Notes:

    First I suggest you head to the car wash and power wash your under carriage. You will be happy you did. Most of the work can be done with nitrile gloves on but those nuts on the transmission mounting bracket need bare fingers. And the patience of a saint.

    I drove the front wheels onto some scrap lumber raising the truck up about 6” (see pic). This made it much easier to work under there. But, it may have been easier to use my knees to hold things in place, making the dolly unnecessary but I think it would have made it harder to get the angles necessary to get my hands up in tight places.

    Use the boxes the skids come in to lay down on! They fits under the entire area you will be working. Unless you have a low-boy creeper. Then I am jealous.

    The trans skid I got already had the holes for the cat guard fasteners punched. Which was awesome!


    Engine Skid:

    Someone at RCI recommended I lay on my back and rest the engine skid on my knees, raising it up. This is how I did it. But, had I thought of the dolly at this point then I would have tried that. The carriage bolts at the back of the engine skid were difficult to get in as they refused to stay straight. I ended up pulling them and loosely installing the center recessed bolt, then spinning around and adding those.

    Make sure you don’t tighten anything yet. You will do that at the end. You will want those two pesky 4” carriage bolts at the back loose enough so you can slip the trans skid between it and the cross member.

    To tighten those two at the end, I went at both bolts from the passenger side. You will want to use the box ratchet for this. If the drivers side is too loose for the ratchet you can barely slide a finger in from the drivers side to oh-so-slightly snug that nut so you can ratchet it from the drivers side. These were the last Fastners I did a final tighten on.


    Transmission Skid:

    This one was an absolute son of a bitch. It is impossible to get to the two drivers side nuts with the skid plate mounting bracket in place. This is how I suggest tackling this bastard:

    1. Loosely install the skid plate mounting bracket to the transfer case frame. I had it looser than snug.

    2. Lay the plate on the dolly and raise the front so it slides between the engine skid and the crossmember. I ended up raising the back of the skid with one arm, using a knee to slide the front in then brought the dolly and light (see #4 under Tools) into play to hold the back up while I jammed the plate forward.

    3. Now, loosely install the two drivers side bolts to the mounting bracket. You don’t want it tight but finger snug.

    This is the part that took me a bit to work through, all the while working through all the profanity I have picked up through the years and coming up with a couple new ones.

    4. Go to the passenger side bolts, slide them in, making sure they go all the way through into the frame. Duct tape them into place. You will not be able to get your washers and nuts on with this thing totally put together.

    5. Look at everything, make sure you are not rubbing and things look pretty good. The back of the front (larger) cat guard wanted to rub against the transmission cross member. If you are rubbing a little that may be OK. You can shove everything forward when you go to reattach the mounting bracket.

    6. Now, use your box ratchet and tighten the two drivers side nuts to the mounting bracket. This is a final tighten. You don’t want the plate moving on the mounting bracket.

    7. Put duct tape on the bolts that attach the mounting bracket to the transfer case frame and remove the washers and nuts lowering the back of the skid. You can wheel the dolly forward to lower the skid making sure it doesn’t slide out from between the engine skid and the crossmember.

    8. Now you should be able to install the drivers side washers and bolts for the trans skid to the mounting bracket. This is a final tighten.

    9. Raise the plate and mounting bracket back into place and put the washers and nuts loosely back into place.

    10. Here is where you will be aligning the transmission skid so it is fully forward. Check to make sure the catalytic converter guards are not rubbing on the truck frame. I found I could push the skid forward and tighten one side of the mounting bracket to the transfer case from keeping the guards clear of the frame. Do a final tighten on these two bolts, drivers and passenger side.

    11. Don’t worry about the two bolts where the skids overlap yet. You will do those last and they will suck.

    12. Final tighten the 3 recessed engine skid bolts. This should bring both the plates up about as far as they can go.

    13. You can final tighten the front 2 engine skid bolts now too.

    14. Now, on to the last two bolts… You will get to both these bolts for the final tighten from the passenger side. I had trouble with the drivers side nut being too loose for my box ratchet to work. I had to slip a finger (maybe I was able to get two fingers up there) from the drivers side to spin it enough so my ratchet would work.

    14a. Get your box ratchet and use it to tighten the passenger side. This one isn’t too bad.

    14b. For the drivers side, I stuck my flashlight up and was able to get an eye on that fucker from the passenger side. I got the box ratchet on it and was able to do very small turns to eventually get it tightened.

    15. I have a stock bumper so the last thing I did was put the nylon nuts and washers to get that attached.

    I hope this is helpful. That transmission skid work around was key. Maybe there is a better way to do it, but that is how I did it and it worked well.

    I will try to monitor this thread to answer any questions if they come up.


    Thanks,

    Dean





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  2. Jan 16, 2023 at 10:15 AM
    #2
    running214

    running214 New Member

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    Bilstein 5100's, Morimoto gen 2 XB headlights and fog lights, TRD sway bar and skid plates. Nothing else needed!
    I got a reply from RCI regarding the problems with the cat guards and the tranny skid plate.
    If you mount the cross member bracket to the skid plate first, not the cross member, then lift it up into place and just install the two 4" bolts for the cross member adapter plate, there are no issues accessing any of the other required bolts for the cat guards. Once I figured this out, the entire install went smoothly and worked out great. I pointed out to them that their instructions dont mention that tip anywhere.... crickets.... pretty bad customer service IMO but great product.
     
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  3. Jan 16, 2023 at 10:19 AM
    #3
    GratefulDean

    GratefulDean [OP] Swagless

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    Yea, I was concerned that I would have issues with the other bolts lining up if I did that. But it would have made the whole process go a little smoother.
     
  4. Jan 17, 2023 at 11:41 AM
    #4
    Totmacher

    Totmacher New Member

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    Mine came with a bar and nuts to clip to it and long hex head bolts to replace the carriage bolts where the front plate meets trans plate. I don't like the hex heads sticking out underneath but it was a lot easier than trying to get washers and nuts on the carriage bolts again in that spot.
     
  5. Jan 17, 2023 at 3:39 PM
    #5
    GCanuck

    GCanuck Member since 2020

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    TRD Swaybars. Line-X bed liner. Toyota Tri-fold Tonneau. N-fab side bars. TRD cold air. AMP bed extender. Rough Country Level kit. BFG A/T K02. RCI Skids. OEM Tow mirrors. TRD exhaust
    I still have a wrench sliding around in there. I think. Not sure where it could have gone anyway. My son dropped it between the cross members LOL!
     
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  6. Jan 28, 2023 at 6:33 PM
    #6
    benny_en_fuego

    benny_en_fuego New Member

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    Glad to know I’m not the only one experiencing some frustration. Has anyone had any luck installing this skid plate cat guard combo with a TRD Pro skid plate? The RCI website says they’re compatible, but the front slots of the RCI skid plate are too narrow to slide into the bolts under the back of the TRD plate. Even if that worked, there’s not much thread to work with on the TRD bolt, and I’m not sure there’s way to get a wrench up there to tighten the TRD plate back down. It feels like there are some key instructions missing.

    BE6DF5B6-F638-4CFD-B2F3-21AF547256CC.jpg
     
  7. Jan 30, 2023 at 1:19 PM
    #7
    running214

    running214 New Member

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    Bilstein 5100's, Morimoto gen 2 XB headlights and fog lights, TRD sway bar and skid plates. Nothing else needed!
    The RCI kit comes with two new 4" carriage bolts that are thinner than the ones included with the TRD skidplate. Once you use these two new bolts, the RCI plate will slide into place.
    Word of caution though on the install with the cat guards. There is a cross member that, when following the non cat skid plate instructions, gets mounted to the vehicle cross member first, and then the skid plate is bolted up to that. When you use the cat guards, you wont be able to reach the bolts needed to mount the skid plate to the cross member. You have to install the included cross member to the skid plate first, then lift it into position, and then install the cross member to the factory frame cross member. RCI does not include this **small detail** in their instructions, and their customer service absolutely blows. I figured it out the hard way, and a few days later is when RCI finally blessed me with a return email telling me to do exactly that. The mating of the TRD plate with the RCI plate is seamless and overall Im content with this setup, but I definitely wont be buying any products from RCI ever again.
     
  8. Feb 25, 2023 at 10:49 AM
    #8
    ThatGuyTheCooler

    ThatGuyTheCooler New Member

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    I just installed the RCI engine/trans/cat plates last wknd. You will def need that engine/trans retrofit plate. It is impossible to get to those nuts from the top.

    You will also need to attach the crossmember brace to the trans skid before installing. The holes are slotted to allow some movement. I tightened the nuts finger tight, mounted it up to see where I was at, then tightened it up and re-mounted the brace.

    Overall, it was very easy and everything they sent fit great. I did not need to change out any nuts or washers. Since you are installing all plates, you will NOT use the 2 carriage bolts, washers, nuts from the engine skid mounting packet.
     
  9. Feb 26, 2023 at 5:48 PM
    #9
    mpj76a

    mpj76a New Member

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    Just did mine (front skid, tranny skid, cat guards) today and it was a head scratcher as well since all I did was watched a couple youtube vids. I also had no idea what the little bar with clips was for either until I mocked everything up and realized there was no way to get to the top of the bolts that go through the front skid cross member. Also will second that you need to mock up the tranny skid cross bar with bolts finger tight, lift into position, and align the two long bolts and then drop the tranny skid to perform final tightening of those four cross bar bolts before lifting back into position for final mounting. At one point I was really concerned about what a pain it would be to deal with all that when its time for tranny fluid change but now I realize its not that big of a deal. RCI needs to put out a youtube video.

    I felt like I was stripping the clip on nuts on the retrofit bar when I was tightening them. Never did get it too tight. Anyone else experience that?
     
  10. Mar 5, 2023 at 11:00 AM
    #10
    Fitzf15E

    Fitzf15E New Member

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    Thanks to the folks that contributed to this. It was obvious after mocking it up that the last step of the instructions wasn’t going to work, so post #8 above was key.

    My biggest issue came afterwards. With limited clearance to work and needing maximum feel to get washers, lock washers and nuts in place in a cold shop I didn’t wear any gloves. Afterwards I realized I’d wound up with chemical burns all over both hands. It seems something in the powder coat didn’t agree with my skin. Even three days later they’re still pretty sore with new splits showing up. Note to self, should’ve at least grabbed a set of nitrile gloves.
     
  11. Mar 18, 2023 at 6:15 PM
    #11
    splitfuse

    splitfuse Dr. Tundra

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    Great writeup @GratefulDean and key tip! No idea why this isn’t mentioned in the cat guard instructions rather than pointing back to the trans plate instructions… to make matters worse, I have a thing for Woolwax and got the plate and cross member bracket all nice and coated before getting it in place with the front bolts and one of the rear passenger side bolts before realizing there’s no way to access the rear drivers side washer/nut. Got it on now, hope it keeps the cat thieves away!
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2023
  12. Mar 20, 2023 at 1:28 PM
    #12
    vilord

    vilord New Member

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    Anyone happen to have a photo of how that little bar with clips is used? I haven't gotten mine in yet so don't know what will be self-explanatory and what won't...
     
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  13. Mar 20, 2023 at 2:17 PM
    #13
    mpj76a

    mpj76a New Member

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    No photo since you can't see it post install. It simply lays on top of the cross member and serves to provide the nuts that the long bolts go into after passing through the cross member (the one used that sandwiches the engine and tranny skids). If you just do the front skid you wouldn't use it because you would use the usual washers and bolts that are easy to reach. On an install which uses the engine skid, tranny skid, and cat guards, you have no way to place or to wrench on those bolts so the bar/clip method gives you threaded holes on top the member that you tighten into from the bottom of the skid. I didn't get it at first either until I put everything into place and realized I couldn't access the top of the cross member anymore. Put the engine skid on along with the bar and long bolts. Get the long bolts started into the threaded clips but keep loose so you can place the tranny skid. Going from memory.
     
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  14. Mar 20, 2023 at 3:52 PM
    #14
    vilord

    vilord New Member

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    Oh! Okay that makes sense I think. So this goes above the crossmember where the engine skid ends and the trans skid begins?
     
  15. Mar 21, 2023 at 5:05 AM
    #15
    mpj76a

    mpj76a New Member

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    Yes vilord, that's correct. Watch out for how tight you can get these without breaking them. Those clips seem a bit weak. I think I hit their limit. I didn't use a torque wrench so I can't give values.
     
  16. Apr 6, 2023 at 6:43 PM
    #16
    Mr. Cade

    Mr. Cade New Member

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    Did anyone purchase an alternative to the gold hex bolts? I'm kinda wanting a socket head in grade 8, similar to the picture, only not cheap Chinesium.

    6E76449A-8036-4B16-B998-57B820462064.jpg
     
  17. Apr 6, 2023 at 10:31 PM
    #17
    mista_g

    mista_g New Member

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    I’ll be rocking this next weekend. Should be fun…;)

    so I can’t just put it all together and raise it with a jack then bolt it all up? Will there be access issues?
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2023
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  18. Apr 7, 2023 at 11:31 AM
    #18
    vilord

    vilord New Member

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    Is grade 8 really needed? I think I'd personally be more interested in a stainless steel bolt that won't rust in place than being able to hang the truck upside down from a 10 gauge skid plate...
     
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  19. Apr 7, 2023 at 8:02 PM
    #19
    Mr. Cade

    Mr. Cade New Member

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    !!!DO NOT USE RCI HARDWARE!!!

    The (5) M8 X 30MM flange bolts they supplied are NOT SOLID metal. They are the worst kind of cheap. Hollow core/ composite material.
    I snapped one, using a basic 3/8 socket wrench, with one hand.... laying on my back!

    Upon review of my photos, I believe it snapped because the supplied washers were not wide enough outer diameter, and this one was able to lean into the slot at an angle.

    Still, just look at this "bolt"... This is totally unacceptable for it's intended purpose.

    0F4A456C-7093-4BA7-8347-C7F28729A325.jpg
    CF6F63D1-09B4-41AB-AE1F-8287253B028D.jpg
    C8469EFB-7B80-41AD-891A-A70BCEA3F522.jpg
     
  20. Apr 7, 2023 at 8:04 PM
    #20
    Mr. Cade

    Mr. Cade New Member

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    Hopefully, that soft core makes it easy to extract ‍
     
  21. Apr 7, 2023 at 10:12 PM
    #21
    vilord

    vilord New Member

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    Wow... For the cost of the plates, I'd rather pay another 10 bucks and get real bolts...
     
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  22. Apr 8, 2023 at 11:27 AM
    #22
    Yotaman18

    Yotaman18 New Member

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    Thanks for all the information! My RCI plates finally came in yesterday evening. Unfortunately I left for work this morning for a couple of weeks. Saving this thread to read over before I get started.
     
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  23. Apr 8, 2023 at 3:47 PM
    #23
    Mr. Cade

    Mr. Cade New Member

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    Yeah, I'm sure the washer not being seated properly was the culprit, but still. I'm just not comfortable with that hardware.
    It's also entirely possible that the bolts they sent me are not the same ones they've sent out in the past. Supply chain issues happen all the time.
     
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  24. Apr 9, 2023 at 11:56 AM
    #24
    Tundra-XP

    Tundra-XP New Member

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    Are these the aluminum or the steel skids?
     
  25. Apr 10, 2023 at 2:51 PM
    #25
    Tundra-XP

    Tundra-XP New Member

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    Well thanks to everyone here, I just placed the order for mine. Hope I don't have to wait long and the install goes well. I'll be sure to follow your advice.
     
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  26. May 28, 2023 at 4:40 PM
    #26
    Macbanjo3

    Macbanjo3 New Member

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    @Tundra-XP I am about to place the order and take advantage of the Memorial Day sale. How long is the wait? Just wondering if the wait time listed on website is accurate or not? Thanks!
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2023
  27. May 28, 2023 at 7:14 PM
    #27
    Fitzf15E

    Fitzf15E New Member

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    Ordered mine a couple days into the tax day sale earlier this year. Website said two weeks, got them in five days.
     
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  28. May 29, 2023 at 6:04 AM
    #28
    Macbanjo3

    Macbanjo3 New Member

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    @Fitzf15E Awesome. Thanks!
     
  29. May 29, 2023 at 8:03 AM
    #29
    wh4x4

    wh4x4 New Member

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    Yup, I got these from Amazon -- M8-1.25 x 100mm Button Head Socket Cap Screw

    I wasn't able to find security bolts in the correct size, but this was better than the hex bolts

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086W5NH5K?ie=UTF8
     
  30. May 29, 2023 at 8:06 AM
    #30
    wh4x4

    wh4x4 New Member

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    Feb 15, 2017
    Member:
    #6388
    Messages:
    43
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    I had the same -- there are so many other mounting points that are rock solid tight, I just snugged and let it be -- besides, no way I was dropping it back down after miraculously being able to get the other bolts in to check what was up with it.
     

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