What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

I’m assuming the new blades are identical to your original blades? Size and attachment to arm?

 

Ok, I'm going to do my best to answer your questions. This might need it's own thread LOL. I apologize in advance.
The feel is night and day difference. Even my wife and her friend noticed the difference. My wife wanted to go for a ride after my alignment was done. My wife's friend, who is not automotively inclined at all, said that my truck was always smooth, but it feels even newer now. LOL. They way the truck handles and negotiates imperfections in the road is completely different now. I'm not jolted around now, but I can feel each corner working. It's almost like I can feel the truck "stepping" over something like I would...right foot, then left foot...no jolt, dip, and shutter anymore...if that makes sense. I've always felt like there's always been a degree of brake dive...no more. I no longer have that awkward feeling like I'm driving a damn boat. I mean, some people like that in a luxury vehicle. I don't. Like I said, I came from a Ram Sport a few years ago; I had Bilstein 5100s on it in the end and liked it. I had a 93 Supra before that. But this is completely different. It's not too stiff. I feel a big difference in gained traction too. When there's a sudden dip, the suspension has more travel and better reaction. There might be a tiny reverberation from having the TRD Swaybars, though. It doesn't bother me. The truck sits stout when it's parked now. I can step on the rear bumper, get in the bed, get in/out of the truck... no more bounce/lean/dip. My wife concurs with everything i just described and she's never really driven my truck, but accompanies me whenever I'm not commuting to work. Just do it already. Trust me, you'll like it.
I now feel like the TRD Pro suspension should be standard equipment "package" (like TRD Offroad is actually a package that can be added to any trim) for Oklahoma. Our roads absolutely suck! Those that have never driven a Pro are missing out. But I didn't want to sacrifice my Platinum goodies. You can turn a Platinum/1794/Limited into a Pro, but you can't turn a Pro into a Platinum/1794/Limited...if that makes sense. Until 2020, the Pro never had dual climate control. It never had ventilated seats, Park Assist, and BSM/RCTA. None of those options can be simply added. Essentially, the Pro is an SR5 with a suspension, wheel/tire, exhaust, faux hood scoop, bed stamp, and interior stitching/embroidery package. Granted, Park Assist and BSM/RCTA aren't needed in an offroad environment, which the Pro is marketed towards. Toyota Safety Sense and all that garbage never appealed to me. I'll forever have my 2015 "Platinum Pro" with 38g tank mod, the way it should be, IMHO.
Man, that is a heck of a deal you got on your Pro suspension and wheels/tires. Wish I could've found a deal like that. Either I'm looking in the wrong places or I just live in the wrong place...probably both. I ended up buying all new parts from Sparks with free shipping, but got the Left front shock from Lewis Toyota $100 less + free shipping and all new hardware from Post Oak Toyota (local guys). Still $3k new for the entire set of shocks alone. You absolutely killed it! What a deal! I'm jelly.
I did install everything myself. Gotta save somewhere right? It's just what I've always done. I enjoy doing my own work even when I don't. Haha. I also appreciate it more when I do it and I know it was done right, a sense of accomplishment, if you will...just like every jet I work on. I torque everything to factory spec...just like every jet I work on. It's not that I don't trust others, but I really don't. They might know what they're doing, but at the end of the day...it's not their truck, it's mine. It's just another rushed job to everyone else.
I can't say that I had any extreme difficulties with anything other than my left hip has been giving a lot of trouble lately. I did the rears first. Then I did the fronts. I have a floor jack, 4 jack stands and 2x4s (to protect surfaces). Remember to chock the front tires when lifting the rear. Use parking brake/chock the back when lifting the front. Always use jack stands. Don't solely rely on the floor jack. Slide the wheels under the frame. Safety first.
I couldn't find official install instructions for PTR61-34190, the actual part number for the 2019+ TRD Pro Fox Suspension "Kit" (the kit has been discontinued and each part needs to be ordered individually). The install instructions for PTR13-34140, the 2015-2018 TRD Pro Bilstein Suspension Kit can be found here.
http://toyotaparts.sparkstoyota.com/install/PTR13-34140inst.pdf
Now keep in mind, not everything applies, word-for-word. Remember, this was written for the Bilstein kit, not the Fox kit. There some parts for the rear shocks that it tells you to "delete" or "use supplied nut". There is no supplied nut that comes with the Fox shocks if you order them new. The upper nut to the factory shock is the same for the Fox shock. Shock shaft diameter and thread pitch are the exact same. Do not delete anything. For the rear shock, transfer the washer, cushion #3, cushion #1, and top nut to the new shock in exactly the reverse order of diassembly. Don't ask me why they numbered the cushions the way they did. I don't know why #2 is ommited. I'm not sure what they meant by "sleeve". It might refer to the black plastic boot that gets removed with the old shock. Otherwise, the only thing that I can think of is a shaft diameter adapter sleeve that only applies to Bilstein shocks.
All hardware is exactly the same front and rear. If it's in good condition, reuse all the hardware or you can replace it like I did (I gave my original shocks and hardware to a friend).
The alignment specs within these install instructions don't necessarily apply. Per the factory service manual, there's a negligible difference between model code USK56L-PSTSKA (Tundra TRD PRO CMax, short bed, 3UR-FE 4x4) and USK56L-PSTZGA (Tundra Platinum CMax, short bed, 3UR-FBE 4x4). I'm not going to speak for every application. Just take it to your trusted alignment shop. The guys at Jim Norton Toyota thought what I did was cool and knew what to do. They performed my alignment and zero point calibration. The only thing that needed to be adjusted was Toe. Camber and Caster were both still within spec. Some folks have different situations where a different alignment spec works better for them.
The VSC system zero point calibration is follow-on to an alignment. It has to be done when you make changes to the geometry of the suspension. Pretty much, it baselines the inputs (yaw, pitch, etc) to the VSC/ABS/TRAC/A-TRAC systems so that they correctly perform as advertised during operating conditions. All that needs to be done is connect a laptop with TIS Techstream software via data cable to the DTC port under the dash. Navigate the menus to clear the "sensor" data. Then enter test mode to "recalibrate/enter sensor info", ensuring no vibrations or input to vehicle are made while the test mode is being performed. Layman's terms...connect laptop, clear, and rewrite. That's it...that simple. I have Techstream and the cable, so I could've done it if I wanted to. But while it was already on the alignment rack is the ideal place to perform the task as it's already sitting level. It's standard follow-on procedure post-alignment. If your alignment guy doesn't know what this is, either do it yourself if you have Techstream or take it to someone that works on Toyotas...like a Toyota dealership. The oil change guys are the FNG's. The alignment techs are usually master techs or very experienced. I was outside when the alignment tech returned with my truck from the road test. He said that my truck is one smooth truck. We talked shop and the mods I've done for a little while before he had to get back to work. Cool dude.
I did install the speed sensor bracket PN PTR61-34190-SB. There is one conflict with the bracket and the TRD rear swaybar. The swaybar wasn't necessarily intended to be used with the Pro suspension and many would argue that it defeats the purpose. To each their own. I like to take a curve faster than 25 MPH without feeling like I'm going to roll my truck. That horse is dead...not going to entertain further argument.
So, if you're like me, have the swaybar, and intend to keep it on...you can probably recall that the ubolt is positioned on the axle to the left of the speed sensor support bracket mount lug per the instruction.
http://toyotaparts.sparkstoyota.com/install/PTR11-34070Einst.pdf
Be sure not to damage or crush your brake line. You will need to disconnect the left link, remove the two nuts holding the left bushing bracket, move the ubolt to the right of the lug after you install the speed sensor relocation bracket, clean, lube, reposition everything, install the nuts, reconnect the link, and torque nuts (alternating evenly) and bolt to spec.

The nuts are nylock, so you must ensure that there is still sufficient run-on torque (resistance) so they don't back off. You may need to replace the nuts if there's no locking feature. I've read somewhere that someone simply cut the left ear off of the bracket. Do as you wish. I just chose to move the ubolt...easy enough. I haven't noticed any negative affects. It's almost like how others relocate the swaybar to facilitate a lifted or lowered suspension. In the picture below, you can see where the bushing, ubolt and bracket used to be and where they are now.

Support the rear axle on the side you are working on with the floor jack when disconnecting the rear shocks. I did need to lower the floor jack and use the factory bottle jack (under the passenger rear seat) to push the leaf spring down to gain the clearance to get the new rear shocks in. I didn't remove the rear swaybar completely nor did I disconnect the right link at any time. Not sure if that was a contributing factor or not. Not worried...not difficult...moving on. The new rear shocks are super tall and I can't really compress them by hand. Also with the full uncompressed thickness of the new upper shock mount rubber cushion #1 (top) and cushion #3 (bottom), the shock rod threads don't protrude through everything to get the top nut started first. Just slip on the washer (concave side up) and cushion #3 (white or blue line upward depending which one you have; white is offroad package; blue = sport, but the ones on my Platinum were originally blue too. Not sure what the rubber composition difference is. I put new white striped offroad cushion on. I don't think it matters.) on the shock rod and insert the shock rod through the upper mount. While supporting the shock with the reservoir AWAY from the axle, insert the lower bolt, bolt head facing out, and start the lower nut, but don't torque at this time. Slide the cushion #1 (stepped washer down. It sits nicely inside the upper mount hole.) on the shock rod, ensuring the cushion is centered/seated/flush in the upper mount. Remove the bottle jack and raise the axle on that side with the floor jack a little to compress the cushion #3 enough to start the upper nut and torque to spec.

The upper shock nut is more square-ish looking with a small flange. The lower nut has a larger flange. Repeat on the other side. Lower vehicle. Let everything settle. Go ahead...jump around in the bed and give it a while to rest. Now you can torque the rear shock lower nuts to spec. Don't worry, the rear alignment really isn't adjustable. Finishing up the rear first now has nothing to do with the front. But ignore the front torques in the picture below until after you reassemble the front and lower the vehicle. Never torque any lower shock or lower control arm hardware until the weight is back on the ground and everything has settled, otherwise you will "preload" the bushings, things will be very squeaky, the geometry may be off, and parts may bind.
I had to actually get in, start it up, back it up my driveway (my driveway is a 15⁰ slope towards my garage), rock it, and pull back in before the shocks settled and the camber went from positive to normal again. Then I shut it off, put it in park, set the brake, got out, and torqued the LCA's (they're 221 ft-lbs, so have the big mamba jamba or a lot of ugga-duggas in you) and front shock lower nuts. The LCA front cam nuts are behind my skid plate. Without taking off my skid plate, only a 24 mm boxend wrench will fit. Walston Industrial GH100-701 Universal Wrench Adapter

$29 Walston Industrial GH100-701 Universal Wrench Adapter Swench Wrench 1/2" Breaker Bar Wrench Extender Mechanics Tool

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BMWPWR44 will allow you to put a torque wrench or breaker bar on the box end wrench.
Just follow the directions for the front from the PTR13-34140 instruction above. The front shocks are location specific, so pay attention to that. L or R is stamped on the bottom. Each spring has L and R printed on it and the corresponding side's letter will be lined up with the tab above it. Above the tab on the upper mount, there's an arrow and "OUT" stamped on top. This has to face outward when installing it. The reservoirs face out and slightly away from the CV shafts. It may be necessary to turn the shock body to align with the LCA. If necessary, insert the lower shock bolt and use bolt to adjust it. I had to do that for the right side.
Just remember, you will need to torque everything before you drive somewhere to get an alignment. If you matchmarked all the cam bolts like you should've and it doesn't need adjustment, chances are that you might be the last one to touch it. Do it right. Like I said before, only Toe needed adjustment on mine, so only the steering tierod ends (that I never messed with) were adjusted. Everything else is how I left it.

I also adjusted the headlights. You need to do this or you might be that blinding everyone! Dont be that guy. Using the tow leveling adjustment wheel to compensate for 2" level is not right way. That level adjustment wheel is intended for you to be able to lower your headlight aim under a payload (bulldogging while towing or hauling). If you already lowered your lights using the adjustment knob to compensate for the 2" level, you may not be able to lower your headlights enough when you actually do tow/haul. Don't be that guy.
It's easy enough to adjust...just a philips screwdriver is all you need. Turn the screwdriver clockwise (righty-tighty) for up, counter-clockwise (lefty-loosy) for down. Always end on an up (clockwise). Park on a flat and level surface perpendicular to a wall. The screwdriver channels/guides are easy to find and the screwdriver turns the gear on the back. See below.
This is the driver's side. Ignore the blue painter's tape I used to hold the flap back for the picture.

And the passenger side.

You only adjust the low beam. High beam is preset to the low beam. The top of the light beam will be at the exact height of the center of the bulb (H-line) for the passenger side low beam. The driver side will be slightly lower. It depends how far from the wall you are.
If you can keep it simple and park 10ft exactly from the wall (maybe at work or something), the top of the driver's side low beam will be ideally 2/3 lower in the distance between the H-line and 40mm under it.
Aim it about 27 mm (1 - 1/16 in) below the H-line, but not lower than 40mm (1 - 9/16 in) below.

So if you recall, I mentioned that my driveway slopes toward my garage, but it dips out the door before it does. If all wheels are inside my garage where it's close to level, I'm too damn close to the wall to determine headlight aim. In my case, I had to use a laser level to determine how much to back up my driveway to make my truck sit level. I ended up being 172 in (4369 mm) from the wall.
If you're like me and can't be exactly 10 ft from a wall, just use my calculation below. You don't need to know trigonometry as I already did it for you.
Measure the distance from the wall. Use Google to convert that to millimeters.
Just take 101 divided by 7620 times the distance from the wall in millimeters. That's it! Use the calculator on your phone.
(101/7620)4369 = 58 mm
And multiply 2/3 = 39 mm
In my case, I should aim the driver's side low beam so that the top of the beam is about 39 mm (1 - 9/16 in) below the H-line but not lower than 58 mm (2 - 1/4 in) below the H-line.
I didn't do before and after measurements on the height of my truck. Even though the rear shocks were longer, the rear height doesn't seem to be any higher once settled. Even so, it's so minute. My rear swaybar links still sit at 90⁰. There's less squat, but I haven't hooked up a trailer yet either. I knew the front should be about 2" higher. Again, I didn't measure to confirm.
I hope I answered all of your questions. Thanks for reading my novel.

 

Seat jackers in today. Not sure if I like it yet. Have some long-ish trips coming up so we'll see. Install is a breeze, as one might imagine, so removing them wouldn't be the end of the world

 

Wow! Great reply. I truly appreciate all the info and help. I’m sure I’ll re read it many times to make sure I didn’t miss anything.

 

With the great weather up here in the northeast I was able to install my Royalty Core grille insert over the past 3 days.

 

What were your post alignment numbers for camber and caster? The factory “specs” are so wide, it’s ridiculous.

 

Now THAT ^^^ was an answer!

Thank you for your service!

 

What floor mats do you have.
I have Husky mats and would like a custom badge similar to yours.

 

Quick mod this morning. Added the trigger guard to the magnet.

 

I have Weathertech floor mats. I got the badge from Tufskinz

 

Thanks, Not sure if they have the same dimensions or not.

 

No pics, because we've all seen them... but my Cat shield are installed, thanks @Classy63 !

 

Finally installed a gift from last Christmas - rear differential breather mod.

Liked the kit. Quick install, everything seems like quality parts, and plenty of extra tubing.

Left some excess near the axle for future lift. Do have plenty of excess tubing and reusable hardware if need to redo




thinking I may need to adjust the mounting bracket to have tube go straight up into breather mount instead of curving

 

The FSM calls for:
USK56L-PSTZGA (Platinum)
Camber: 0.21⁰ +/- 0.75⁰ (ΔL-R 0.5⁰ or less)
Caster: 2.73⁰ +/- 0.75⁰ (ΔL-R 0.5⁰ or less)
Total Toe: 0.219⁰ +/- 0.16⁰

USK56L-PSTSKA (Pro)
Camber: 0.21⁰ +/- 0.75⁰ (ΔL-R 0.5⁰ or less)
Caster: 2.71⁰ +/- 0.75⁰ (ΔL-R 0.5⁰ or less)
Total Toe: 0.223⁰ +/- 0.16⁰

Variance between models:


Seems pretty specific to me...like laboratory conditions. The equipment rounds to the previous decimal for each spec, making the both model specifications identical.

I'd say it's pretty close. Money shot on his Toe adjustment. Not sure how much difference 0.4⁰ Caster and Camber off-target actually makes though. It's still within half the FSM allowable tolerance. I'll keep an eye on tire wear. She handles just fine though. I'm not sure why some folks prefer different specs from factory and what mods they made to come to that. I'm no alignment guru.


At least she's not slammed and cambered out with 1000 grams of rice.

 

Looks good. Front and rear doors? How's fitment and quality in your opinion? Do you have a link? TIA

 

What do you mean cambered out... that RF tire is making at least 25% contact w/the surface!!! Seems spot on to me

 

Yes, front and rear doors. Fit is good and quality looks good (about what I expected for that type of cover piece)

Like most reviews, had to remove the double sided tape that came with parts and replace with some better 3M VHB tape.

$40 LLKUANG ABS Car Inner Door Armrest Panel Decoration Strip Trim for Toyota Tundra 2014-2020 Pickup SUV Car Accessories(Not fit Double Cab Model!) (Matte Black)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0B1ZJKCKZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

Installed Barricade HD2 bumper

 

Update on the diode dynamics ss3 pro fog lights - night pics:
OEM Pro LED’s

pro’s & DD SS3 Pro amber fogs:


The cut off is obviously incredible. And the extra illumination near the vehicle is head and shoulders above the stock halogens. Can’t wait to get these in some snowfall. Thanks to all who’ve made suggestions and given advice with regards to these fog lights.

 

Ok the FSM has nice tight specs. I guess what I meant to say is that alignment shops have 1.5 degrees to play with and they are still in their green zone. I’ve seen bad alignments off by a degree side to side, and they think it’s good because it’s “still in the green.”

 

Installed the Rigid selective yellow SAE pod lights as additional off-road lighting. Had these leftover from my dad’s that went through an F3 tornado (everyone is fine, truck not so much).

Used Diode Dynamics 2” roll bar mounts to clamp onto the Borla skid plate with integrated step - wasn’t sure how I felt about it first, but it’s growing on me.

Last pic is the aftermath of the tornado.

 

Removed the 2 Valhalla's Shield cat protection plates and the TRD Pro skid plate so I could change my coolant and then reinstalled everything. Not fun, but since I changed the fluids in the differentials, transmission, and transfer gear case before putting on the cat plates, I should be good to go for a while. Wish I hadn't forgotten the coolant change, but it happens.

Dave

 

Cleaned her up a bit and took better pics. +20 offset is exactly what I was hoping for. Can’t wait to get more aggressive tires after winter.

thanks @Tundra234 for the suggestion on the lugs.

 

Installed my electrical tray, made some...questionable... solder joints, and have now finished up my light bar project.



Depending on how the light bar puts out, ditch lights may be next.

 

Ah, good to know. That reassures me in my decision to take it to the dealership for the alignment. I almost took it to Firestone Complete Auto Care for a "lifetime" alignment, but they were booked a week out. Got a same day appointment at my dealership instead.
"Alignment shops" deal with all makes and models and may not have every vehicle profile loaded correctly in the equipment program. I imagine that data would be pre-loaded by the alignment equipment manufacturer and the individual shop doesn't alter or question the specs. Could be a money grab as well. You can always show them the FSM specs, but no telling how receptive they might be if their practice is "adjust to green". I doubt they would have a clue what a zero point calibration is.
I don't always take it to the dealership...but when I do, it's for an alignment. Drive safe my friends.

 

I've been thinking about getting some cat shields for a while. I just missed the RCI sale. I was wondering how getting to the front driveshaft grease zerks every 5k miles might be. They're already a PITA to get to.

Edit: I just checked RCI's website again. Apparently I didn't miss the sale. It worked! I just ordered the trans skid plate and got the cat guards for free! Woo-hoo!
So I guess I'll see how much fun this will be having to drop a skid every oil change again. Doh!

 

Ordered a new exhaust tip. Current one is a bit rusty and is about 4” to far tucked under the bumper. I prefer it a bit farther out. Also got my weather pack connectors in so I can start tying in the fogs and reverse lights in the bumpers.

 

Didn’t do shit to mine.
But helped my little brother put a new radio and backup camera in his 2005 DC.
So it was still a good day of Tundra mods

 

Swapped out the worn out boots on my SPC ball joints on my UCAs. Ended up being a pretty easy, but messy, job.

 

I have the same setup- how many miles did you get before they needed swapping.